Big Island 2--Kona to Volcano

Overview

Pagoda Model Photo - Manago Hotel, Hawaii (Big Island), Hawaii

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South of Kailua, the Kona district is a rural area, with one main road and only small towns. The road is at 1000 -1500 feet elevation, and you can take smaller roads down to some wonderful places on the ocean. On the main road down as far as Honaunau, there are interesting places to sample coffee and macadamia nuts, browse for crafts and souvenirs, and eat. This area is only about a half hour away from Kona, and we took several half-day trips there while staying in Kona. We also spent three nights in Captain Cook - it felt much slower-paced and more relaxed there than in Kona.Driving from the Place of Refuge to Kealakekua Bay on the narrow road through the lava fields, we picked up a young hit...Read More

South of Kailua, the Kona district is a rural area, with one main road and only small towns. The road is at 1000 -1500 feet elevation, and you can take smaller roads down to some wonderful places on the ocean. On the main road down as far as Honaunau, there are interesting places to sample coffee and macadamia nuts, browse for crafts and souvenirs, and eat. This area is only about a half hour away from Kona, and we took several half-day trips there while staying in Kona. We also spent three nights in Captain Cook - it felt much slower-paced and more relaxed there than in Kona.

Driving from the Place of Refuge to Kealakekua Bay on the narrow road through the lava fields, we picked up a young hitchhiker we'd seen snorkeling at Two Step. It turned out he was from China, and was doing a work exchange at an organic farm in Captain Cook for a few weeks of his several-month Hawaii stay. He used to manage a panda sanctuary in China - a very interesting guy. Someone at our hotel had recommended Manini Beach to us. We weren't sure exactly how to get there, and this guy pointed out the road and told us where to go.

Later in the trip, we took long day driving from Captain Cook around the south part of the island, up to the volcano, and down on the other side to Hilo. It was almost too much to squeeze into a day - but what a spectacular day!

The volcano is amazing, awe-inspiring. Between the visitor center and all the view areas, walks, and longer hikes, there are almost endless possibilities. We barely touched the surface, but did enjoy the Crater Rim road, the Chain of Craters Road, the Rim Road, and the Thurston Lava Tube as well as the short walk behind Volcano House.

Quick Tips:

In the South Kona area, if you see a sign for something that sounds interesting, check it out! At worst, you'll lose a few minutes of your time, and at best, you'll have an adventure. There are small museums, coffee farms, mac nut farms, historical sites, and more. I once spent a very interesting and educational hour in the small Kealakekua library.

Be careful where you leave your car and avoid leaving valuables in it. We had no incidents, but there are occasional car break-ins.

When driving to the volcano, make a stop at the black sand beach at Punalu'u. It's not usually a place to swim, but the black sand is impressive, and you can often see turtles in the water. Plus, you may run into local people playing music in the pavilion.

If you don't mind somewhat cooler weather (depending on the season) and are intrigued by the volcano, you could consider spending a night in one of the many bed-and-breakfast accommodations around the town of Volcano. This is an especially good idea if you are hiking out in the evening to see where the lava flows into the ocean. After the hike, you have to drive back up the volcano, and you may not want to drive all the way back to Hilo or Kona or wherever you're going.

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Manago Hotel

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Hotel

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The Manago Hotel is a Big Island institution. I’d stayed there about 15 years ago, and expected it to be about the same, comfortable but a bit shabby. I was pleasantly surprised. It was nicer than I remembered, with clean well-maintained rooms and a lovely local atmosphere.We paid $5 extra for a third floor room, which was worth it for the beautiful ocean view (from 1400 feet elevation). The room was basic, with furnishings that were inexpensive but pretty new. Our lanai door didn’t open at first, but when we told the manager, he came right up and fixed it—the previous guest had knocked it off its track. No phone or TV in the room, which was fine with us. No wireless Internet either, unfortuna...Read More

The Manago Hotel is a Big Island institution. I’d stayed there about 15 years ago, and expected it to be about the same, comfortable but a bit shabby. I was pleasantly surprised. It was nicer than I remembered, with clean well-maintained rooms and a lovely local atmosphere.

We paid $5 extra for a third floor room, which was worth it for the beautiful ocean view (from 1400 feet elevation). The room was basic, with furnishings that were inexpensive but pretty new. Our lanai door didn’t open at first, but when we told the manager, he came right up and fixed it—the previous guest had knocked it off its track. No phone or TV in the room, which was fine with us. No wireless Internet either, unfortunately.

We stayed one night, on our way to the volcano and Hilo. We liked it so well that we booked another room for our last two nights on the island. We were again very happy with the accommodations and the atmosphere.

The hotel has a restaurant, but the only dinner items they had for a vegetarian were salad and rice, so we bought food at the supermarket down the street. We did have breakfast there. It was good and very inexpensive—I had French toast and my friend had eggs, papaya, and toast. They charged us less than the menu on the wall said (my friend didn’t have the breakfast meat that came with hers) and didn’t even charge us for our tea and coffee. After all, it was Thanksgiving morning. We also had breakfast there during our second stay and enjoyed it just as much. The waitresses were very nice and the atmosphere was cheerful and laid back, with mostly local folk for patrons.

The Manago was founded in 1917, and is still run by the Manago family. It has a family feeling, very local-style. As well as the regular rooms, it has rooms with shared bath with prices under $35 a night. We paid $59 a night for our third-floor rooms.

The grounds are full of well-tended gardens of beautiful plants and flowers, with a model of a pagoda and a waterfall that feeds into a koi pond. We saw quite a few brightly-colored geckos hanging around outside.

While we were at the hotel desk checking out, we heard a rumbling noise that shook the building. Earthquake! It was very short but strong, a 5.0, as we found out later. Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on December 14, 2006

Manago Hotel
P.O.Box 145
Hawaii, Big Island, Hawaii
(808) 323-2642

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Punaluu Bake Shop and Visitor Center

Attraction | "Punalu'u Bake Shop"

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For lunch on our drive to the volcano, we stopped at the Punalu'u Bake Shop in Na’alehu. I highly recommend stopping there. It’s set up as a visitor center for tourists, with rest rooms, bakery, deli food, souvenir shop (with reasonable prices), and even a small botanical garden. You can sample pieces of their Hawaiian sweet bread, regular and flavored with taro or guava. They sell the bread and rolls. I love the sweet bread, and picked up a few rolls for later.The bakery case is full of delectable-looking treats. We got an éclair (whipped-cream filled) and a coconut turnover. They were totally sinful and delicious treats, and we savored them happily. The iced Kona coffee was great. My friend ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on December 14, 2006

Punaluu Bake Shop and Visitor Center
Route 11 - Na`alehu
Hawaii (Big Island) 96772
(808)929-7343

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Diving/Snorkeling Two-Step

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Attraction | "Two Step"

Yellow Tangs Photo - Diving/Snorkeling Two-Step, Hawaii (Big Island), Hawaii

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Two Step is my favorite snorkeling place on the Big Island. It has clear blue-green water, a wide variety of fish, and a good variety of coral, some of it looking very healthy.To get to Two Step, drive south of Kona past Captain Cook and take the well-marked turnoff to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge). Turn at the sign to the Place of Refuge, and then take the first narrow road on the right. It's one-way, so you'll come out back on the main road when you leave. You can park along the road if there's a space, or pay $3 to park in the lot.There is no sand beach. You walk across a small outcrop of lava rock. You can get into the water anywhere along the rock, but most people go ...Read More

Two Step is my favorite snorkeling place on the Big Island. It has clear blue-green water, a wide variety of fish, and a good variety of coral, some of it looking very healthy.

To get to Two Step, drive south of Kona past Captain Cook and take the well-marked turnoff to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau (Place of Refuge). Turn at the sign to the Place of Refuge, and then take the first narrow road on the right. It's one-way, so you'll come out back on the main road when you leave. You can park along the road if there's a space, or pay $3 to park in the lot.

There is no sand beach. You walk across a small outcrop of lava rock. You can get into the water anywhere along the rock, but most people go in and out of the water at one spot where the rock is neatly worn into two steps that drop off into the ocean. You can sit on a step, put on your snorkel gear, and launch yourself very easily.

Two Step is popular with nearby residents and with tourists of the slightly more adventurous sort. The water is deeper than, say, Kahalu'u, but it is very clear and you have a great view. It's protected by a reef and is very safe. This trip was in November, before winter, and we were able to snorkel in the afternoon as well as the morning. Other seasons, the water can get choppy and cloudier in the afternoon.

Several snorkel trip boats were in the water, with the people from them snorkeling in the bay. I always worry about being hit by one of these boats and prefer snorkeling when they aren't there. Though I'm sure they pay a lot of attention and I've never heard of any accidents. Two Step is also adjacent to a boat launching harbor, and I try to avoid drifting over there, again because of the boats. Although, you could swim right across the harbor and into the small beach at the Place of Refuge. But there's a sign on the beach to stand back, so that wouldn't be kosher. Though if one were to do so, one would be right among a lot of turtles. Okay, ten years ago when I did that, it was supposedly okay to do.

After getting out of the water, it feels good to let the sun warm you while sitting on the rocks. You can watch the yellow butterflies flutter by (well, they do!) and watch the fish in the water and the people in the water and on the rocks. And the crabs on the rocks. And the birds flying. And look at the life in the tiny tidepools. Both times I did this on this trip, I managed to get a bit of a sunburn. So be warned--reapply that sunscreen after you get out of the water. And bring water and snacks with you; there are no services here.
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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 14, 2006

Diving/Snorkeling Two-Step
Next to Place of Refuge
Hawaii, Big Island, Hawaii

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Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park

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Attraction

Place of Refuge Photo - Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, Hawaii (Big Island), Hawaii

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Pu'uhonua o Honaunau, or the Place of Refuge, is a must-see for island visitors. It provides a look at Hawaiian history in a stunningly beautiful setting. In the days of kapu, people could incur death penalties for a number of offenses. If a condemned person could get to a sacred place of refuge, the offense could be forgiven and his life saved. It was also a refuge in times of war; nobody could be harmed here. The park is set up very nicely, with exhibits, an amphitheater, and rangers to answer your questions. As you walk in, you go past a panorama of Hawaiian history, and you can press buttons to listen to several brief but comprehensive stories that set the tone for your visit to the park. ...Read More

Pu'uhonua o Honaunau, or the Place of Refuge, is a must-see for island visitors. It provides a look at Hawaiian history in a stunningly beautiful setting. In the days of kapu, people could incur death penalties for a number of offenses. If a condemned person could get to a sacred place of refuge, the offense could be forgiven and his life saved. It was also a refuge in times of war; nobody could be harmed here.

The park is set up very nicely, with exhibits, an amphitheater, and rangers to answer your questions. As you walk in, you go past a panorama of Hawaiian history, and you can press buttons to listen to several brief but comprehensive stories that set the tone for your visit to the park. The stories start with arrival of the first Hawaiians to the islands and cover daily life and the refuge.

Then you walk around the grounds, taking the self-guided tour with the explanatory brochure or just meandering. Several structures recreate traditional Hawaiian lifestyle and show the history and sacred nature of the refuge. There are canoes and a couple of setups for a traditional game played on a flat rock with black (lava) and white (coral) stones, like checkers. Two women were sitting at one of the setups playing the game; they seemed to know the rules.

There's a cove with a small beach. On this visit, signs asked people to stay back from the beach to protect the area, but you can still look into the water from the rocks on the side of the cove. You are sure to see turtles grazing there.

The park also includes the grounds of the royal compound, adjacent to the refuge. The fish ponds are lovely, and attract some interesting birds. A giant stone platform in the royal grounds is impressive, a reminder that a flourishing and powerful group of people inhabited this place for many years.

Pu'uhonua o Honaunau is about a half hour drive south of Kailua-Kona. Take the well-marked turnoff after the town of Captain Cook. You'll probably want to spend 1-2 hours here. You can combine the trip with browsing in town, snorkeling at Two Step (which is right next to the park), sightseeing at Kealakekua Bay, or swimming at Ho'okena Beach, all within a short drive. On the drive down the hill from the highway, you can turn off and look at the Painted Church or visit a coffee tasting place or two. You may also be able to pick up some fruit or a lei from a roadside stand set up on the honor system, with a box to leave your money in. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 14, 2006

Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park
Off Highway 160
Honaunau-Napoopoo, Hawaii
(808) 328-2288

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Ho'okena Beach

Attraction

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We visited Ho'okena Beach on a mellow Thanksgiving day. Several families had set up for picnics in the pavilion area. They seemed to be mostly local folk - tourists have not discovered this beach in big numbers. People were in the water, swimming and snorkeling, and it looked like inviting for both. We were on the way to the volcano, so we didn’t get in deeper than our ankles. We did walk most of the length of the beach. It's a clean expanse of sand, and I got the impression that it doesn't get crowded. I will definitely return and spend some time there when I can.To get to Ho'okena Beach, take the next turnoff after the one for Place of Refuge; it's well-marked. The road winds down several mi...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on December 14, 2006

Ho'okena Beach

Hawaii, Big Island, Hawaii

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Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

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Attraction

Ferns Photo - Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii (Big Island), Hawaii

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The Hawaiian islands were created by a chain of volcanic action, rising from the floor of the Pacific and moving south. The Big Island is the southernmost and newest of the islands. It has five volcanoes: one extinct, two dormant, and two active. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park encompasses the very active Kilauea and part of the active Mauna Loa. Lava is steadily flowing from Kilauea out into the ocean on the southeast part of the island. In the last 30 years, lava flows have created over 550 acres of new land. They've also destroyed over 180 houses and covered up miles of roads.Volcanoes Park is on the main highway around the island. We were spending time in both the Kona and the Hilo area...Read More

The Hawaiian islands were created by a chain of volcanic action, rising from the floor of the Pacific and moving south. The Big Island is the southernmost and newest of the islands. It has five volcanoes: one extinct, two dormant, and two active. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park encompasses the very active Kilauea and part of the active Mauna Loa. Lava is steadily flowing from Kilauea out into the ocean on the southeast part of the island. In the last 30 years, lava flows have created over 550 acres of new land. They've also destroyed over 180 houses and covered up miles of roads.

Volcanoes Park is on the main highway around the island. We were spending time in both the Kona and the Hilo areas, so we stopped at the park on our way across the island.

Our first stop was the visitor center. It has excellent displays that tell you all you could want to know about the volcanoes. Park rangers are available to answer your questions, and are very helpful. That morning, we'd felt a 5.0 earthquake at our hotel, and there were printouts about it right at the counter. It was not caused by the volcano, a bit of a relief. There's a gallery adjacent to the visitor center, which we didn't see on this visit, but I've seen some beautiful artwork there previously.

Then we drove across the street to Volcano House, the historic and elegant hotel in the park. It includes two small shops, and its snack bar and restaurant are the only places you can get food in the park. We walked out the back door, where there's a wonderful overlook of the crater and a short walk through beautiful vegetation with lots of prehistoric-looking ferns to another overlook.

Next, we drove the 11-mile Crater Rim Road that encircles the Kilauea crater. There are numerous overlooks and places where you can take short (or longer) walks. It helps to have a guidebook or brochure, but everything is well-marked. We stopped to see some steam vents and to take the short walk to the overlook at Halemaumau, considered the home of Pele, the volcano goddess.

About Pele: If you consider her to be a quaint superstition, try taking a walk at night out to where the molten lava hits the ocean. If you get to where your feet are feeling a little warm, I bet that you will be saying at least a short prayer to her, one of awe of her power and request for her protection.

Our next stop was the Thurston Lava Tube. Sometimes a crust forms on the top of a mass of flowing lava, which keeps flowing through, leaving a hollow tube. This one is tall and long enough to walk through, and it's well worth the 20-minute walk.

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 14, 2006

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Highway 11
Hilo, Hawaii 96718
(808) 985-6000

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South Kona and Ka'u

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Story/Tip

Turtle Photo - Hawaii (Big Island), Hawaii

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South Kona has some of the most beautiful coastline and the best beaches and snorkeling on the island. At the bottom of Napo'opo'o Road, Kealakekua Bay is a place I always come back to. This bay is where Captain Cook had his initial meetings with the Hawaiian people, and also where they killed him during a dispute. You can look across the bay and see the Captain Cook monument. Kealakekua Bay is a marine conservation district, with a coral reef and many kinds of fish and other sea life. People rave about swimming with spinner dolphins there, and it sounds wonderful. We took a short drive to Manini beach, right on the bay. I've always wanted to snorkel in the bay, but it can be rough getting into the wa...Read More

South Kona has some of the most beautiful coastline and the best beaches and snorkeling on the island. At the bottom of Napo'opo'o Road, Kealakekua Bay is a place I always come back to. This bay is where Captain Cook had his initial meetings with the Hawaiian people, and also where they killed him during a dispute. You can look across the bay and see the Captain Cook monument. Kealakekua Bay is a marine conservation district, with a coral reef and many kinds of fish and other sea life. People rave about swimming with spinner dolphins there, and it sounds wonderful. We took a short drive to Manini beach, right on the bay. I've always wanted to snorkel in the bay, but it can be rough getting into the water. Manini Beach seems to have a more sheltered entrance, and I hope to try it sometime.

A narrow road runs several miles along the coast from Kealakekua Bay to Place of Refuge and the Two Step snorkeling place. We made the trip a loop, down one road from the highway and up the other. Both roads are scenic, and both have a number of signs for attractions, including coffee tasting. Adding those on the highway, there are well over a dozen places that have signs out for coffee tasting. We tried a few. My favorite was the Kona Pacific Farmers Cooperative on Napo'opo'o Road, just up from Kealakekua Bay. At their visitor center, you can taste their coffee and macadamia nuts. The very nice woman running the store also offered us tastes of delicious chocolate-covered macadamia nuts - not anything like the ones you pick up in boxes at the ABC store. The co-op sells their own line of cookies and other snacks and some souvenirs. An older man was sitting in the store weaving baskets of lauhala. I would have bought a three-tier set, but he said that you aren't allowed to take them off the island. The grounds of the co-op have some beautiful plants.

I am fond of the Bong Brothers Coffee Company and health food store and cafe, on the highway in Honaunau. It's bohemian, in tune with the laid-back area, and has a good variety of food, local organic produce, crafts, and souvenirs. One day we sat on their front porch and ate their tempeh curry and rice, talking with a couple of dreadlocked and pierced young people who were living nearby. (At another natural food store, I recognized someone who'd been on our plane from San Francisco. Turned out they, three generations including a 1-year-old, had just bought a macadamia nut farm and moved to the island to farm it.)

Right next to the Manago Hotel, where we stayed, was a potato chip factory. We went in there one day and managed to buy only a couple small bags of chips, which were outstanding. They also had a variety of other treats, some pretty unusual.

On our last day, we noticed that a restaurant named Nasturtium had a sign that said "Featured on the Food Channel" - we might have stopped in for a meal if we'd noticed that sooner.

Heading south toward the volcano on Thanksgiving Day, we took a side trip to Ho'okena Beach, just south of Honaunau (see review). Then we drove on to the Manuka Nature Trail, between the 81 and 82 mile markers.

My guide book said the beginning of the trail wasn’t well-marked, but it has apparently been fixed up quite a bit since then. There’s a rest room and a parking lot and numbered signs on the trail naming different kinds of trees and other things, including the pit, a vertical lava tube that is about ¾ mile down the trail. The walk winds through lovely jungle, with varied and beautiful flowers and other vegetation. In one place, there was a strong and pleasant curry-like smell. In others, tiny flowers, possibly some variety of jasmine, flooded us with a wonderful sweet aroma. The pit is maybe 15-20 feet wide and 40 ft deep and is impressive. However, after the first half mile (there was a marker) the mosquitoes were pretty bad. So bad that we didn’t linger at the pit any longer than it took to take a few photos, and then we hightailed it back he way we came. If you go on, the whole trail is a 2½ mile loop.

Driving on into the southernmost district of the island - and of the USA! - we stopped in the town of Na'ahelu at the Punalu'u Bakery (see review). After a refreshing break there, we had one last stop before the volcano: Punalu'u Black Sand Beach. There was a lot of action here on the holiday. Some kind of party was going on in the pavilion, with young people singing to something with a loud beat. They may have been Japanese tourists - they weren't singing in English.

I walked out on the lava rock next to the beach, looking for turtles. I didn’t see any, but other times, the water is full of them, and I marvel at how they can calmly munch at the seaweed while being pushed around by waves that would smash a person against the rocks. Usually the water is far too rough for swimming. This was the first time I’ve been there in the calmer season, and people were wading. It’s a treat just to look at this beach. The sand is really black, and it sparkles in the sunlight.

We could have stayed longer, but the volcano beckoned. Read Less

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More About Volcanoes Park

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Lava Hits Water Photo - Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii (Big Island), Hawaii

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(continued from here.)After the Thurston Lava Tube, we stopped briefly at the Pu'u Pua'i overlook of the Kilauea Iki crater. If you have more time, you can park at the beginning of the nearby Devastation Trail and take a 5/8 mile walk to the overlook, through an area where a forest was covered by falling cinders in a 1959 eruption. We could see people below hiking the Kilauea Iki Trail, a 4-mile loop through the site of that eruption, a very dramatic-looking area. It's amazing that you can safely walk through a crater on an active volcano, with steam billowing up from vents. I would like...Read More

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