Six Months in Slovakia

As you approach the entrance of Patio Hostel through a dilapidated alley reminiscent of "Euro Trip’s" unkind representation of Bratislava, do not be deterred. Inside, Patio is a decent hostel for the budget conscious backpacker. It offers basic but comfortable two to twelve bed dorms. Prices range from just under $25 for a bed in large a shared dorm to about $40 for a double room (cheaper in the low season). Patio's decor is Spartan and its amenities are clean and easily accessible from each room.

The hostel has minimal facilities beyond provisions for sleeping and luggage storage. It is, however, centrally located close to Bratislava’s delightful Old Town which has plenty of places to eat and things to do and see. The multi-lingual staff at the hostel will be more than happy to make recommendations to you and provide you with a map and directions. There is a tram stop directly opposite Patio and it is also close to buses and not far from the main train station.

All in all, Patio is a good choice of basic hostel accommodation in Bratislava. It is slightly more expensive than some of the other options (such as student housing) but this is compensated for by its being much less down at heel, better run and closer to the action. It is open year round and bookings can be made online at www.patiohostel.com Use Patio Hostel as a base from which to explore one of Central Europe's prettiest capitals!

If you are looking for an affordable and charming Slovak dining experience then you have found it at Lanius. Situated just off Trencin's picturesque main square and housed in a building purportedly constructed in 1541, Lanius is a local institution.

It offers an extensive and diverse selection of dishes. These range from traditional Slovak fair such as fried cheese and stroganoff through to pizza and pasta for the less adventurous or those in need of some comforting familiarity whilst away from home! There is also quite a wide selection of vegetarian options. Portions are huge and very reasonably priced with most mains coming in at under $5. Wash it down with a Slovak beer such as Zlaty Bazant for around $1 a litre.

Lanius provides a range of seating areas distributed over three floors and a terrace. In summer the terrace is a pleasant choice whilst in winter the large open fire on the ground level makes this restaurant just about the cosiest place in town! Settle in for a lazy afternoon with a hot chocolate and sweet pancakes before venturing out to explore the beautiful sights of Trencin and its famous castle under a veil of snow.

The staff at Lanius are generally as warm and welcoming as the atmosphere. They are eager to help and some speak a little English. They will also amusedly do their best to understand you if you are from a foreign land and attempt to order your meal in Slovak! You can get your own back though when perusing the English language menu: there are a few quite humorous mistranslations to have a giggle at.

I ate here at least once a week for the six months I lived in Trencin and returned a few years later (in 2005) to find it just as I fondly recalled. I thoroughly recommend Lanius and I hope it is as pleasant an experience and subsequently as cherished a memory for you as it is for me.

Oh, and don't forget to get a photo of the logo on the sign out the front.

Opening hours: Restaurant, 11am to 9pm, 7 days a week; Bar, 10am to 11pm Sunday to Thursday, 10am to 2am Friday and Saturday.

Menus availabel in: Slovak, English, German.

Website: www.lanius.sk

Devin Castle is one of the most important historical sites in Slovakia. The original castle was founded by the Romans but, according to information provided in the on-site museum, people have inhabited this area since prehistoric times. Situated just outside Bratislava atop a craggy hill and bordered by the Danube and Morava rivers it also marks the former location of the "iron curtain" between the Eastern Bloc and the West.

The castle is a crumbling ruin (we have Napoleon and his army to thank for this) but this only adds to the experience of visiting it. History lovers will feel overwhelmed by Devin's great age and significance. For those who have been dragged here by a more enthusiastic travel companion and are thinking "not another boring old castle" you can enjoy the spectacular views of Austria and Slovakia afforded by the upper levels.

It is worth a visit to the museum alongside the ruin to gain a full appreciation of this place's incredible history. Inside you will find an interesting collection of artifacts, including some well preserved ancient pottery.

In summer Devin is a great place for a picnic once you are done exploring. In winter, however, it is bitterly cold and a warm cuppa in the village at its base is more enjoyable. (This from a person who attempted to have a picnic there in winter much to the amusement of the astonished locals!)

Devin is easily accessible from Bratislava. You can reach it by car, bus, boat, bicycle or on foot. It is about a twenty minute bus ride on route 28 or 29 from Novy Most. Alight at Devin village and walk up to the the site from there. Entry fee is about $2.50. The castle is open year round but the museum may be closed in the low season.