In the Temples of Sacred Fire and Water

An October 2006 trip to Muktinath by antonia sonam

Young nun making incenseMore Photos

An account of a month-long stay in white-walled Muktinath, an exceptionally holy site in both the Hindu and Buddhist traditions. I lived with the temple guardians, the Muktinath nuns, sharing their meals and sleeping opposite the temple of sacred fire.

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Young nun making incense

Quick Tips:

After going inside the fire gompa, fill your water bottle from the spout (it's on your left as you go down the steps). This is the same water which flows under the temple, and which the sacred fire burns upon. I drank it for a month, and it's exceptionally sweet, fresh and invigorating. (Of course, it's best to purify it before drinking.)

If possible, get a Buddhist guide to take you around Muktinath, since 3 out of 4 of the temples are Buddhist. Still, take your guide's answers with a grain of salt unless you know them to be particularly well-educated about the site. I spent many hours listening to guides invent stories or give inaccurate info--probably out of the best intentions, not wanting to disappoint the tourists' curiosity. It's better to ask a nun, if possible.

Please buy souvenirs and supplies from the nuns' shop (just inside the main gates). This helps support the nuns, who live entirely on donations. I watched the nuns walk through snow in thin socks and sandals, and do their laundry in the freezing stream. Your extra change makes a huge difference in their lives. Each gompa also has a donation box.

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About the Writer

antonia sonam
antonia sonam
Kopan, United States
  • "Currently a resident English teacher for the Tibetan nuns of Muktinath, Nepal. A graduate of Naropa..."
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