Guyana Again

Travel the rough road from the coast to the interior, eventually ending up in the Rupununi savannah after a full day of adventure. The trip was an eco-tourist's dream with lots of bird and animal life seen en route. The change in the tropical jungle character was the most valuable experience. We departed Georgetown at 6 AM in a tightly packed Land Cruiser and barely missed the early morning rush of traffic on the east coast road to Linden. Our keen driver was a master in obstacle avoidance. After Linden, we crossed the Demerara River and were then alone on the red dust road, cut through the dense rainforest and heading south, across the Essequibo River and the tall greenheart jungle. There were moments when we stopped to look at a tree covered with feeding blue macaws, later then a mother puma playing with her cubs and finally a great flock of running trumphet birds. I sat in the front passenger seat holding three trays of eggs... which did survive the trip with only four eggs broken. Being up front, gave me a good chance to take photographs and get the fleeting sightings of passing forest birds like the Powis, Guan and Toucans. At about 6 PM we arrived in Annai and the red sunset over the north savannah was fantastic. The dusty road across the dry swamp lands to the laterite hills was quickly covered and we arrived at Takubin to a feast of welcomed refreshments and family greetings. For the next three weeks I headed further South the visit the savannah areas across the Kanuku mountains, then returning to fish the Rupununi river at Karanambo. Here Diane McTurk had her giant otters running free and I was able to visit the Simoni lakes to experience some of the best fishing for peacock bass I have ever had.

Quick Tips:

Since the trip was somewhat cramped in the small 4x4 vehicle, it is best to travel light and take lots of liquid, some light snacks and insect repellant. There is a chance to "cool off" at the Essequibo river crossing and some limited swimming is a must. Change money into Guyana dollars in Georgetown before heading inland since the exchange rate is better. Avoid staying in any of the amerindian villages or camps en route since malaria is a major problem and best to avoid evening mosquito bites. Take a mosquito net to sleep under, especially if in the open and in a hammock.

Best Way To Get Around:

The roads to many areas are rough and very difficult using normal vehicles. Most travel is done by 4x4 all terrain vehicles or the famous Bedford trucks. Local small planes are also available to hop between remote destinations. Most people speak English and are very helpful to visitors.

Very friendly, colonial atmosphere and the best of Guyanese hospitality and service. The meals were typical and well prepared in a dining room full of antique and national paintings, tastefully decorated and set within view of well-cared tropical gardens. The rooms were large and cool, offering the best of colonial decor and comfort.

A selection of local dishes set out buffet style. There were different curry preparations, their accompanying breads and chutney. Then there was amerindian "pepper pot" and white rice. A very complete tropical salad and fruit bar and a colourful selection of cakes and desserts. My selection was beginning with a hot chicken curry, dahl and rohti. This was curry at its best and my second choice was a bowl of the pepper pot, a very rich soup of meat and casareep(something like soya sauce, but made from cassava).

The small Simoni Creek leads off the Rupununi River into the Simoni Lakes. Here there are lots of ideal spots for catching the butterfly peacock bass(Lukunani) and arawana. The water is slightly green and clear, and the angler does best casting towards the shore from the slowly drifting boat, close to structures and against rocks. The fish strike immediately and the choice can be from peacock bass to a number of exotic sportfish found only here in the amazon waters. Let the guide unhook the fish since many of these have very definite teeth and are capable of giving a good bite. Best to wear long sleeve light color shirt and cover with insect spray. Wash hands well before touching the lure so as not to infect the lure with a repellant. The arawana fish are found also close to the bank and usually below the trees. They are my favourite fish on a fly rod and readily take the popper on the surface.

The drive south to the vast savannah of the Rupununi is a whole lot different from the north. It has many more hills and clear water creeks. The Wapishana indian villages are also of great interest and the Dadanawa ranch is itself of great historic value to the area. The roads were quite good and apart from the total lack of road signs, we did manage to find our way to the destinations planned.

The main interest of cultural value in the Rupununi is the making of the hammock from their own home grown and spun cotton. In addition to the cotton hammock is the fine sculpture done out of balata(latex) which is produced from the jungle rubber. In every village there is some artwork done and the indians are very proud of this value to their cultural identity.

A Mashramani is a family get together and a major importance to social activities in the Rupununi savannah. Depending upon the family ... they gather to undertake a particular job or celebrate an elder's birthday or just a good reason to have a good feast and meet new family.
We managed to get a Mashramani done at takubin for the Gorinsky/Ware/Melville/Hart family and this was the first time in over 30 years that some of this family met under one roof and in harmony.