Out and Around the Antrim Coast

This journal is a continuation of our rambles and drives around Ulster. Although we spent three days exploring the Antrim and causeway coast the time was insufficient, this area alone is worth a week or longer. There are many opportunities for walking and paths are well signed, this region has a range of impressive trails suitable for saunters to very active hiking. Shopping is a breeze in these friendly towns, but really it is nature’s paintings and sculptures that is the heart of this area; stunning coastal views, picture postcard villages presents visitors with a kaleidoscope of natural wonders. This is not just a journey of coast roads and sites, but of the spirit, definitely not a place to hurry as in “seen that, done that get back on the bus” type of attitude.

On our way to Dunluce we saw a stunning rainbow the best I have ever seen, but by the time I had fished my camera out of its waterproof bag I had no chance of capturing it, however, it is one of my enduring memories of that day. September and October can be rainy therefore plan to pack sturdy rain gear.

Portstewart and Portrush were once the haunts of genteel Victorians seeking seaside holidays and Portstewart’s a little more on the genteel side than Portrush. Its cafes, tea-rooms and swooping strand remind me of upscale English resorts. Portrush while not a yobs paradise caters more to families and more active outdoor pursuits.

If you have time check out Portrush’s blue flag beaches especially whiterocks and explore unique century old caves dotted along its east strand. If you take the Curran strand walk you will be rewarded with a view of Dunluce castle rising 100ft above the sea.

Carrick a Rede rope bridge poses a challenge to the faint hearted, but even if you choose to watch others you will enjoy the surrounding spectacular vistas. Many tourists visit the causeway attractions in one day taking in the Giants Causeway, Bushmills, Dunluce and the rope bridge because all are within a mile or so but if possible try to spread out your visits, you will be well rewarded.

The Irish have a saying that I think says it all ”When you take a path, the path takes you” go ahead choose your path you can’t make a wrong turn here.

Quick Tips:

The challenge along this coastal route is choosing where to stop it is a real dilemma because all the glen towns and villages entice the driver, some of our favorites were:

Glenarm, which is the first of the nine Glens and the oldest. Glenarm castle is home to the present Earl of Antrim, the castle is closed to the public but you can view the turreted structure from Glenarm Forest.

Cushendall is the capitol of the glen and is situated along a truly spectacular shore, take a quick detour to view its town center tower. The tower was built in 1809 by a scion of the east India company to house “Idlers and Rioters” (postcard description) nearby Cushendun with a population of around 70 persons attracts tourists because of the Cornish theme. The town is maintained by the National trust.

Glenariff is known as Queen Of The Glens because of its high cliffs and tumbling waterfalls. Its upper reaches embrace one of Irelands forest parks with many marked trails whilst down in the town access to lovely waterfoot beach is handy with ample parking and picnic facilities. We enjoyed a picnic lunch on its very serene beach and great conversation with some students who were digging out worms for a later fishing trip.

Torr head itself is worth a brief diversion for its stunning seascapes, it is the closest point in Ireland to Scotland just 12 miles away.

Giants Causeway and a UNESCO world heritage site is every bit as magnificent as one imagines it to be, photographs do not do this area justice. Seeing the wondrous honeycomb of thousand of stones will impress even the most jaded traveler.

Portrush Attractions.

Dunluce Center. Shopping, café tourist information, special effects theatres, virtual reality rides.
Open: March 25-April 3: 10:30am-6:30pm; April-May: Sat/ Sun 12pm-6:30pm
June: Mon-Fri 12pm-5pm Sat/ Sun 12pm-6:30pm
July-Aug: daily 10:30-6:30pm
Sept-Mar: Sat/ Sun 12pm-5pm
Inclusive ticket: £8.50; family (2 adult 2 children): £27.50; each additional child: £7.50

Water World Harbour Front. Pirate themed waterpark features two 80m waterslides plus a bowling alley. Phone. 028 7082 2001

Barry’s Amusement. Open: March-Sept. Old fashioned fun fair with Ferris wheel, Roller coaster and other fairground favorites.

Best Way To Get Around:

City sightseeing Belfast offers daily tours to the causeway coast. Information can be obtained at the tourist office Donegal square Belfast or at the information Kiosk opposite Mc Donnells.

Ulsterbus. The Antrim coaster 252-day return tickets or the causeway rambler takes in all the attractions from Bushmills to Carrick a Rede. From Portrush the open top Portrush puffer offers causeway transport.

Tours N trails. 12 Slieve Banna Coleraine. Phone 028 7035 5680 offer guided tours including causeway coast and glens, hill walking. All tours are tailored to individual preference.

This region offers 14 cycling routes including the National cycle network Route 93

Rental cars are available from major rental companies; we rented from Budget but booked prior to arriving in the country. I would imagine the cost might be higher if you book within the country.

Northern Ireland Railways offer scheduled trains and buses to and from Belfast, Londonderry, Coleraine. A day tracker ticket from Belfast to Portrush costs around £7 family ticket costs £17.50. The ticket offers unlmirted travel from July 1-Aug 31 and Sundays year round (cost £5-£12.50)

Alternatevly a Freedom of Northern Ireland ticket offers unlimited travel on all scheduled rail and bus services operated by NI railways, Metro, and Ulster bus including airport express services. A choice of one day, three days out of eight consecutive days and seven days travel are available. 1 day tickets are available on board and at manned stations, all others are available only from main train and bus stations or tourist information desk at Belfast airport. Fares are changeable according to promotions.

The world’s oldest licensed distillery is located on the edge of the quaint town of Bushmills on county Antrim, 3 miles from the Giants Causeway. Bushmills was granted its license by James the first and Sir Thomas Phillips was the first license holder, however distilling around that area can be traced back to 1276. It is said that Tsar Peter the Great sampled the barley water during his tour of Europe in1697.

We were lucky to catch the beginning of a tour and just made it as the group entered the waiting room in the Visitor center. Because this is a working distillery only groups are allowed and sometimes you need to book ahead in order to take the tour.

We watched a brief film documenting the history of whiskey making, I may try it one day because I memorized the four stages alas, and we don’t have the Irish water here. Following the film we were literally whisked along at a rapid pace through the various working areas. Our guide had a cold but talked as rapidly as she walked, she clearly was unwell but I would bet on her winning any speed walking contest.

Huge copper stills and a room filled with oak barrels of whiskey are my most vivid recollection of the tour, that and the odours of yeasty cooking. I was sorry for the distillery coordinator, his job was making sure the stills maintained a constant temperature, I am sure that at the end of his shift he would have absorbed fumes through every pore, I hope he lives nearby because he certainly would not pass a breathalyzer. Four volunteers were allowed to sample six types of whiskey, unfortunately we were not picked to imbibe; however, we were all allowed to choose a tot of whiskey or a soft drink at the bar. I like Irish whiskey in hot toddies with lots of cloves but my preference is peaty Scotch served in Irish crystal over ice. Afterward we were shown into the Bushmills shop, overflowing with merchandise all related to Bushmills. High prices and nothing I couldn’t live without.

A fire in the 1800’s demolished a large part of the old buildings. The present buildings have a very Victorian look quite attractive and blend in with the quiet little town of Bushmills.

Tours are, $9 {£5} per person. And run from April to Oct, Monday through Saturday from 9.30am to 5.30pm. Sunday from noon to 5.30pm.

If you enjoy a challenge then a visit to this bridge is the place for you. Carraig-a Reade means rock on the road and has been used by salmon fishermen since the 1600s. The wood and rope bridge connects to Sheep Island a tiny rocky place and a haven for Cormorants and wild birds.

The rope bridge was initially a single rope hand rail and had wider slats, now there are two handrails and the wooden slats are a bit closer, however, the bridge still swings gently, and at times not so gently across an 70 feet Atlantic chasm that plummets 80 feet into a boiling sea and craggy rocks.

I am not a fan of heights but I do appreciate wild beauty and so I agreed to take a look at the area, my husband though made it clear that he intended to cross the bridge, he loves challenges and as a former skydiver this was a walk in the park for him.

The walk to the bridge half a mile from the ticket office took 15 minutes, the coastal path is incredibly beautiful but it is steep and there are quite a few stairs, appropriate footwear is recommended. There is a viewing platform about five-minutes walk from the parking lot; wheelchairs would not be able to go further. We did purchase two tickets just in case I plucked up courage to cross.

After walking the beautiful coast path we were confronted with the amazing bridge and more spectacular scenery, two or three couples were ahead of us and after a few deep breaths it was our turn. Neil of course crossed without a hitch stopping to admire the views, my turn came and I stepped on the bridge, which by then was wobbling like Jell-O, but I closed my eyes and quickly walked or should I say bounced across. The tiny Island was fenced off and we were not allowed to go beyond a small viewing area.

I gave Neil the camera and he took photos of the bridge. On the return journey I made the mistake of leaving my eyes open and grasping the sides, of course being ropes they sagged, I panicked, and could not move, not only was the bridge made of Jell-O so was I. Neil returned and had to grasp my arm before I would take a step. Oh yes, the scenery was exceptional and well worth the trip but if you are timid re-heights it is a challenge.

Open weather permitting: Mar1-May27, 10am-6pm; May 28-Sept 2, 10am-7pm; Sept 3–Oct 31, 10am-6pm. Last tickets 45 minutes before closing.
Admission: adult £2.50, child £1.50, family £6.50
A tea shop/visitor center with toilet facilities is located on the east end of the car park.

Well this is the Giants Causeway so as we explore lets think about this fellow. The Giants name was Fionn MacCumhail aka Finn McCool he had a sweetheart giant who lived on the island of Staffa off the Scottish coast and he built the causeway in order to visit her. As time passed he decided to challenge the Giant Fingal who resided in nearby Scotland, however, Fingal turned out to be too big a challenge and Finn retreated. In order to halt Fingals pursuit our Irish giant tore up the pathway that he had built along the way. Hence we have the amazing Giants Causeway. Remember this is Ireland the land of fairy’s and legends.

In 1693 the Royal Geographic Society declared the causeway a natural wonder of the world and I have to agree, the natural grandeur of these basalt rock formations set against the wild sea creates truly stunning views. These extraordinary formations were said to have been formed some 60 million years ago following volcanic eruptions (no legend) cooled molten basalt solidified resulting in over forty thousand hexagonal columns that have been attracting visitors of all ages for years.

The entrance to the causeway is free for walkers, cars are charged £2.50 per person. The car park is large and located beside the visitor center on the cliff top. Prior to exploring we had a light lunch in the Causeway hotel adjacent to the car park. The hotel owned by the National Trust was very well maintained and had a warm atmosphere, gleaming woods, soft armchairs and cozy fires. Our cheese sandwich served with tomatoes and light greens hit the spot, I would have liked to have spent the night just to re visit the causeway early morning.

The walk to the causeway from the visitor center was about half a mile and all down hill, as we strolled we oohed and ahhed over the wild sea views then around the last bend we spied the Black beauties of the causeway. The sheer magnitude of the area indeed causes one to gasp; truly the stones seem to have been sculpted by humans.
We spent time as millions of visitors before us have scrambling and posing on the uneven rocks. Take care and wear sensible shoes the area is uneven and slippery.

We then continued along the coastal path, stopping to admire the “Organ” the rock formation that is similar to organ pipes. We walked for around an hour pausing at a cliff top viewing platform that overlooked splendid bays. We walked back but mini buses do run to and fro from the center. The enormous cliffs and bays along this coast path are mind-boggling. We concluded our visit with a cliff top walk of around 40 minutes; that route also provides unsurpassed views. There are many hiking paths from the causeway I wish we had spent more time there.

The visitor center houses a coffee shop, craft and souvenir shops, toilet facilities and audiovisual displays.

This is the castle you see on many Northern Ireland postcards in reality it is better than any image, it is truly spectacular. Perched precariously on a wild craggy rock this 13th-century fairy tale ruin oozes with history.

Built in the 13th century by Richard de Burgh it subsequently sustained many sieges and in 1565 the castle became the stronghold of the mighty Sorley boy MacDonnell clan who were Lords of the isles that ruled over northeastern Ulster.

In 1584 the English forced Sorley boy and his clan to flee after battering the castle with artillery, however, Sorley had inside aid and he regained his castle in a unique way, men were hauled up the plummeting rock side in a basket and the English were slain. In 1588 a peace with the English was achieved and the James the first made Sorely’s son Randall Earl of Antrim.

Randall restored the castle and built a manor house inside its walls and remnants of it can still be seen. His wife the former Lady Katherine Manners disliked the splendid but isolated castle, to compensate she hosted court friends and filled the castle with fine furnishings. Katherine disliked the sound of the sea; her fears were realized in 1641 when during a violent storm the entire kitchen and its staff plummeted into the churning Atlantic. The countess of Antrim returned to London and remained there.

Following other sieges that found the Earl briefly imprisoned in Carrickfergus and his castle ransacked all seemed lost, however, the Earl was able to return in 1666 and remained there until his death in 1683. The MacDonnell family backed the wrong side during the battle of the Boyne in 1690, consequently they lost their home and wealth and the castle was abandoned.

Today wandering the extensive ruins is like walking with ancient spirits, if those stones could speak what other stories would they tell? The brooding stones keep the history of long ago battles, feasting, merriment and tragedy yes, the ruins are impressive and definitely atmospheric. Information boards dotted around the ruins document the castles history makes it easy to see the castle independently. Guided tours are available in season by previous arrangement.

The main section dates to the 16th/17th century. Two towers date from the 13th century and the Scottish gatehouse from around 1600. You can still see the remains of the great hall that was part of the manor house, but the modern window whilst giving the room definition is out of place. Cobblestones and uneven surfaces can be slippery when wet do wear appropriate footwear. Climb the towers to see the view the MacDonnell’s would have all those years ago but take care the stairs are narrow and uneven. A cave runs directly beneath castle and during calm weather it is possible to visit it by boat.

This castle is well worth the £2 admission and in my opinion is the most magnificent site in the country.

We picked up the Antrim coast road at Larne a busy port for Ferries and gateway to the causeway coast and Glens of Antrim. The spectacular Antrim coast starts at Larne (A2 North) all the way to Ballycastle. The road is well signed and on its route you will be treated to amazing views of the blue Atlantic, pass through scenic villages, dense woods and sometimes-serpentine lane width roads rimming cliff tops that plunge into an incredibly deep blue sea.

We had visited the Giants Causeway the day before and our destination on this leg of the coast was Carrick-a-Rede Rope bridge. The start of the famous nine Glens of Antrim begins at the 12th-century village of Glenarm. Each of the nine glens were named in ancient times, Glenarm means Glen of the army its castle is the ancestral home of the Mac Donnells who retreated here from Carrickfergus, the 15th earl of Antrim still resides here and its 800 acre park is open to the public, but being out of season we carried on along the coast way past Carnlough (where Winston Churchill once owned an inn) to Glenariff. Glenariff dubbed Queen Of The Glens is known for its waterfalls, forests, and drop-dead scenery.

We stopped in the tiny village of waterfoot and bought provisions for a picnic its beautiful crescent shaped beach edged with Dunes was a perfect spot. The soft sandy beach was almost deserted apart from two people digging for bait worms. This is definitely an area of outstanding beauty and is well supplied with picnic tables; toilets and four signed walking trails through Glenariff Forest (1-9k lengths). The village itself is more than pretty the wide streets and pastel painted buildings appear as if they belong on a movie set. Many tourists visit the Queen Of The Glens Forest Park we didn’t visit the forest but I bought postcards and on them its waterfalls appear to be impressive.

Continuing this coast drive, the seas on one side and towering cliffs on the other we certainly felt we were traveling in paradise and the next village of Cushendun clinched that image. Cushendun is just a short detour off the A2. Clough Williams-Ellis designed the fantasy village in Portmerion in Wales older readers might remember the 1967-8 cult TV series “The Prisoner” featuring Patrick Mc Goohan. Williams designed Portmerion on the scale of a tiny Italianate Mediterranean village.

After moving to Cushendum Williams Cornish wife became homesick and so he set about creating architecture more to her tastes. The rugged whitewashed cottages were built around 1912 and remain in good shape mainly because the village is now owned by the National trust. Williams also designed Lord Cushenduns house, however, that building is now a nursing home and not open to the public. We drove through the village and past the cottages the dull gray skies threatened rain and so we didn’t linger.

Our route from Cushendun to Torr head was hardly wider than a country lane and a switchback, however, it was one of the most scenically stunning drives we have ever taken in Ireland. Torr head was once a strategic signaling and lookout station for transatlantic shipping. Now the old signaling station (first century Fort site) is a shelter for sheep and a wild sea continues to rage around its headlands. From its summit you have splendid views over the Scottish coast and offshore to the east you can see Rathin Island and over to the Mull Of Kintyre. There are also a few passage tombs that once again were well hidden; these megaliths were first erected in Ulster 4.000-6.000 years ago despite their presence on the information board at Torr head we could not find one. The coastguard houses beside the parking lot were abandoned in 1920 but this is still a popular salmon fishery. During late spring the nets are stretched across the bay to catch the spawning fish they can be seen clearly from the coastguard station. This is a do not miss spot for scenery.

We continued along the road past lovely Murlough Bay to Ballycastle and Carrick a Rede. (See entry Rope Bridge.) We finished our lovely day with a short walk around Ballintoy’s picturesque harbour.

Portrush has many attractions but best of all are its wonderful blue flag beaches. Its main center is a delightful town of well-maintained Georgian buildings and a picturesque harbour which still supports fishing fleets and pleasure yachts. It is not your typical bingo hall and candy floss seaside resort, as well as beaches the town is well supplied with amusements including an all weather water center and adventure playground.

Fantasy Island and Dunluce Center are indoor venues that certainly provide an outlet on rainy days with a variety of activities. Virtual reality rides and family attractions are featured in Dunluce and Water World offers flumes, slides, Jacuzzis, aquarium and restaurant all on a pirate theme. There is also an outdoor old fashioned fun fair complete with Roller coaster, Ferris wheel and other fun fair amusements in short lots of opportunities aside from beach and surf. We were there in October and so everything was closed, however, we were able to see the huge waterpark directly on the harbour as we walked around the lovely town noting nice restaurants cafes and enticing shops.

We called in at the Harbour bar for a pub lunch, just a sandwich and a side order of the black stuff found in every bar in Ireland. This old bar is close by the harbour and PortrushYacht Club. We had hoped to have a meal in the Yacht club but it was closed and as it was raining heavily we ducked into the nearest shelter. The pub (circa late 18th century) had been re-furbished. On the first and second floor are very large modern rooms one floor holds an elegant wine bar and Bistro and the top floor a nightclub. The ground floor pub had been left as it always was oozing with character and looking and smelling like a pub.

We found two dimly lit rooms with original wide plank flooring. Both rooms were adorned with photographs of sailing ships and a collection of Victoriana. All the furnishings were original, scarred oak tables, well used seating and original fireplace. Some workmen were having drinks at the bar and as that room was tiny and smoke filled we opted for the back snug room. We spent a good hour chatting with the pubs manager and he told us about a path we could take to view Dunluce castle he drew us a rough map and was so friendly we were sure he would want to show us the way, and so after lunch we set out and were grateful to note that the rain had ceased but the sky remained overcast.

The trail was a real find for us and one of our highlights. Initially it is part of the coast trail that starts at Portstewart and runs to the Causeway, Rope Bridge, and beyond.
Portrush lies on a peninsula that juts out into the wild Atlantic it is also a place popular for surfing, we noted waves of around six feet and stores selling boards and wetsuits. We strolled along the Curran Strand (East strand Beach) and accessed a signed footpath to Dunluce it is an exhilarating and scenic walk shadowed by sheer limestone cliffs that plunge into the sea. Seabirds screech above the roar of the surf and stretching along the coast is a labyrinth of caves with magical arches. The beaches are simply some of the best I have seen in Ireland. The walk to Dunluce is about three Kilometers and is an easy walk with guaranteed scenery. On clear days you will have superb views over the skerries to the Scottish islands. Do wear appropriate shoes because the paths can become very slippery and a good raincoat is a must especially in October.