Israel: Beyond the Tour Buses

The locals are rude enough to make your jaw drop in amazement, so it's worthwhile to get off the beaten path. You'll also observe less overall hostility as well, so hit the desert, the hills, and the nature preserves.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

The Israeli bus system is really good and you can buy a pass that will allow you unlimited rides over a certain period. Renting a car is the other option, but beware of drivers that have one of the worst accident rates on Earth. (They'd rather crash than be courteous, which naturally leads to a lot of wrecks.)

This historic hotel is an oasis in an otherwise less-than-attractive neighborhood in stepped-on East Jerusalem. It is, however, the hotel with the best service, the most atmosphere, and the most famous guests. It has hosted peace talks and plenty of great writers. It's like a luxurious B&B, with a lush courtyard with fountain, an evocative restaurant, and spacious gardens. Rooms vary a lot, but all have all the modern luxuries and plenty of character. Finicky upper-crust travelers will prefer to be at the Dan Pearl, King David, or Hilton (all nice), but none are as memorable as this place.

When I wasn't being a travel writer and staying in a plush hotel, we hung out here with the backpackers. This is a true shoestring travelers' joint ($5-$12), with a common living room, bunk beds, and a common kitchen. Nice friendly people running the place though, which is not always easy to find around here.

The sprawling Negev Desert is a patch of quiet calm in the south. The most impressive area is Mitzpe Ramon. This is the town perched on the lip of a 8 km wide by 40 km long natural crater known as Maktesh Ramon. It's a breathtaking sight to be sure, but visitors who have the time can delve into the geological wonders within the crater by hiking, taking a jeep, or going on a horse or camel safari. The Ramon Inn offers a variety of exploration programs, as does the Society for the Preservation of Nature in Israel (SPNI).

Lying a few miles out of town is one of those incongruous spots that's worth visiting just because it's there. It's a working alpaca farm containing over 300 alpacas, 50 llamas, and a dozen or so camels. It was started nine years ago by a couple who dreamed of owning a farm. They brought a boatload of animals over from Chile and began breeding them, a slow process since the animals only produce one child at a time. The owners eventually began selling wool, making and selling sweaters, and hosting groups of curious visitors and school groups. They also do trips into the crater, with llamas carrying the children and camels carrying the adults.

The Ein Gedi Nature Reserve is an oasis of wildlife, plants, springs, and waterfalls on the edge of the super-salty Dead Sea. While the surrounding cliffs are reminiscent of the America of classic westerns, the valleys are an Eden of greenery and animals. The various hikes through the reserve are like something from a hiker's wish list: every time bodies start getting hot and sweaty, there's a spring, a shady spot, or a cascading waterfall to cool off in. Many of the animals are not shy, so it's easy to spot ibex, hyrax (a kind of wild guinea pig), and various reptiles and birds. It's very, very hot in the afternoon, so plan to arrive early or stay at one of the simple hostels located nearby.

Up the coast, past Tel Aviv, is Haifa, Israel's third largest city. It is ignored by most tourists, but is a pleasant town on a shady mountain facing the sea. This is the jumping off point to Acco (also spelled Acre), twenty minutes up the coast. Acco is an old Ottoman port city which still has a large Muslim population. This is one of the few places outside of the occupied territories where you can walk through a real Palestinian market and sample some flavorful non-kosher food.

After heading east, a long spiral up mountain roads leads to Safed, which is also known as Tsfat or Tzefat. It is the highest town in the country and in many ways the most spiritual, attracting deep religious thinkers and Kabbalistic mystics. There is also a thriving artists' quarter. The cool mountain air, clear views, and rustic cobblestone streets make it the most atmospheric town outside of Old Jerusalem. It's a good place to go during the summer because it's much cooler, plus the mountain views are very nice. The rustic cobblestone streets are a joy to walk on, with a lot of interesting houses and synagogues along the way.