Booming Belfast

I regret that our time was so short in this city. Belfast was not the top of the list on this trip consequently we allotted only one day and that was at the end of our vacation. I had read guide Drever's journal "Three Days In Belfast" just prior to leaving and decided to take a look, well it was really only a glimpse we arrived in the city at 9am and left at 7pm packing in lots of walking, eating, and shopping.

Not too long ago this city was not attractive to tourists, it was wracked in political and religious conflicts, soldiers guarded its streets and stores hoisting machine guns, unattended cars were prohibited. Today Belfast emits that feeling of a warm spring day at the end of a harsh winter warm, lively, and flourishing.

Much of its city center is pedestrianised with ample benches, smart bars and restaurants, and inexhaustible shopping opportunities. (Opens at 1pm on Sundays.) The heart of the city is Donegal square and its anchor the ornate Victorian city hall, it is hard to get lost all walks and tours start and end here.

Many of the restaurants and cafes were closed when we arrived in the city, most open at 12 noon but we found a starbucks type café on Donegal square where we were able to obtain breakfast, oh those scones are delicious but no cream this time, the tea as always was great.

We walked from the square to the river walk which took us to Lagan Lookout, the visitor center was closed, it houses interactive displays and models explaining the role the River Lagan played in the cities life. The whole area has undergone extensive and expensive renewal, making it one of the largest waterfront developments in Europe. The river is said to be so clean that the salmon has returned. Later on the bus tour our guide pointed out condos that only the Mega rich can afford.

The Lagan boat company offers guided Titanic tours in season on the MV Joyce, too. The tour leaves from the quay daily but you must pre-book. Belfast intends to make its tiny Titanic exhibition the best and largest in the world and in their words "It was okay when it left here". Do visit this cultured friendly city.

Quick Tips:

Whatabout is Belfast’s free city guide available from the Welcome center 47 Donegal Place; as well as English, it is available in French, Dutch, Spanish, and German. It is a comprehensive monthly guide with information on all happenings, sites, times, and sometimes fees. Internet is available at the welcome center and bus tours may be purchased (you can also pay the driver).

Take the hop on off bus tour, it will give you an idea of what appeals and where you may want to re-visit. The tour guides give an overview of each district, our guide had a great sense of humour and a depth of city knowledge.

We enjoyed walking to the following places:

-City Hall: Free-guided tours on weekdays. Queen Victoria visited the city in 1849 and the hall was completed in 1906

-The central dome and towers remind me of those at St Paul’s Cathedral and was most likely copied from that building. I would love to have seen the interior and the high dome from below. The tours take around forty-five minutes.

-Prince Albert Memorial Clock: This monument stands slightly askew due to its clay foundations. Prince Albert never visited Belfast so it’s a puzzle on why they would erect a monument to him.

-St Malachy’s Church: This is an interesting building with elaborate turrets, slits in the walls and crenelated towers it is more like a castle from the outside, try to time your visit when mass is done.

-Crown Liquor Saloon: A must see pub on the Golden Mile (Great Victoria Street) Glittering (in its day) glazed tiles adorn the exterior they could use a good scrub but the effect is still one of Victorian excess and it looks as if it belongs on a movie set.

-Grand Opera House: My favorite building was the Grand Opera house across from the Crown. There are performances from Monday to Saturday and I noticed there is a ticket office directly across the street. It has recently received an addition that is quite modern but it was the older parts of the building I enjoyed, molded cornices and sculpture adorn this pretty building.

I would definitely return to this city and expect a week would get me through the places I most want to re visit. Carrickfergus is approximately eight miles from the city and public transport is available.

Best Way To Get Around:

We had a rental car and traveled into Belfast from the M1, that highway is clearly signed and we found the access into the city easy, however, it was Sunday and weekdays would be different. There is a park and ride facility at Sprucefeild (well signed) with spaces for 320 cars and a shuttle into the city.

Translink buses run from the International airport into Belfast running every ten minutes during peak times. Monday through Saturday every thirty minutes and hourly on Sunday. Hours of operation: 5:45am to 11:20pm. Taxi fares run around Twenty-three pounds.

Metro. Belfast has a very good metro system. Destinations are named and numbered on the front of the bus (pay on bus). Buses start and end at City Hall. Multi journey tickets are available in shops displaying metro signs and at the ticket and info kiosk Donegal Square West.

Belfast City Sightseeing operates open top buses hop on hop off system, they leave from Castle place Donegal square opposite McDonald's. Black Taxis also offers various tours.

This is undoubtedly Belfast’s most famous and unique pub where visitors mingle with the locals and medleys of accents abound. Situated on the Golden Mile and opposite the Europa Hotel this one-hundred-and-eighty-year-old former “Gin Palace” is indeed intoxicating. (Pun Intended) The building started out as the railway tavern, indeed its private booths have a railway carriage atmosphere. However, around. 1885 under new owners Italian craftsmen transformed the tavern into a glittering Victorian gem. Ornate tile work, carved wood and colorful glass prevail.

The national trust purchased the pub in 1978 and within three years restored it to its former glory. The exterior is covered in tiles and marble Corinthian pillars flank its main door but it is really the interior that wows.

Walking into the gas lit bar is akin to time travel but instead of the future you are in the past. Until your eyes adjust to the dim light you are aware of a blur of bordello colours amber, deep crimson, tassels, and deep reds of carved woods. Once your eyes have adjusted you will take in the detail on the exquisite windows, mirrors, and a stunningly scrolled molded ceiling awash in yellows, greens, and ambers. Stand at the bar and notice the s shaped marbled top beautifully divided by elaborately carved screens. Enjoy a Guinness while you examine the ornate wooden Snugs. We did all of the above and all I can say this is Victorian excess at its finest.

There are ten private snugs in the pub. We noticed reserved signs on each but I asked the waitress to call us if one became available. Because Sunday roast beef lunch is a sell out I didn’t think we had a chance, however, after about thirty minutes we were shown to a corner snug.

The flickering gas lit lamp hung above a well-aged table, a brass match striker and silent bell gleamed on the wall adding extra character to the warm little room. The colourful etched glass windows depicted scenes of bird’s flowers and animals. Unfortunately some idiots had carved their names into the lovely wood above the black leather seating. How can people desecrate so? Ugh.

I cannot tell you that our food was great. We opted for a Salad, Champ, Cheese bake on pasta. Despite having explained our diet preference we were served champ (mashed potato with onion) along with two fat sausages swimming in gravy. I asked the waitress if they were Vegetarian and she laughed and said “oh no they are best beef.” The cheese bake and pasta was inedible with pieces of broccoli in a milky sauce that contained minimal cheese. The pasta was thin and sticky. The good news is we enjoyed the unique booth experience, friendly wait staff, the Guinness and the Craic. Carnivores may have a different food experience judging by its popularity with the locals. Do pop in this bar it is a jewel.

We started out this walk beneath gentle raindrops, I am pleased to say they remained gentle for much of our walk and finally cleared in time for our city bus tour ”a soft day” indeed.

Leafy Donegal square is the hub of the city and its anchor is the Victorian City Hall. The hall was built between 1896 and 1906 of Portland stone and interiors of marble. Set around a central park like area the building is topped by a large copper dome. Public tours are permitted on weekdays. We wandered around the grounds and statues and I recognized Victoria but others were not so familiar. On the east side there is a wonderful group sculpture commemorating the victims of the Titanic.

Next landmark on our list was Saint Malachy’s Roman Catholic Church.

We exited the city hall grounds at the main exit gate, turned left along Donegal square South, at the corner we crossed into May Street, walked a short time then turned right into Alfred Street to reach St Malachy’s on the left. We didn’t enter the church because of Sunday mass but its ornate facade was worth the short walk. The church was built in 1844 in Gothic style, dark red brickwork and slender elaborate turrets. The interior ceiling is reported to be a copy of Henry the seventh chapel in Westminster Abbey.

From St Malachy’s we walked forward into Clarence Street and to the Crown Liquor Saloon on Great Victoria Street. It is perhaps a good idea to time the walk so that this former gin palace will be open, but if you plan to eat lunch make a reservation. Check out the Italian ceramics covering the exterior and prepare to be stunned when you enter.

Across the street from the Crown is the very modern glass and brick Europa Hotel and beside it the Splendid Opera house. This ornate building re-opened in October 2006 after a nine million pound refurbishment. I loved its candy floss pink and white facade.

Continue past the Opera House then turn right into Howard Street and return to Donegal Square. That part of the walk took around an hour not including the stop for lunch.

The Belfast Welcome Center in the square was our next stop, we booked our City Sightseeing Belfast bus tour and I used the Internet. Sightseeing Belfast offers many tours one of them to the Giants Causeway. That tour leaves daily year round 9:30am returning to the city at 6:30pm.

We enjoyed our day in Belfast but I regret we didn’t see the Botanic Gardens, it was a wet day and following our bus tour was walked around the Northern area of the city to St Anne’s Cathedral in the aptly named cathedral quarter. Work on the church took 80 years and seven architects to complete. One day was not nearly enough time we certainly plan to return.

This fine Norman castle dominates the seaside town of Carrickfergus just 8 miles northeast of Belfast. Situated on a craggy promontory on the edge of the sea, its impressive stout walls are striking and I would love to have viewed it from the water. Built around 1180 by John de’ Courcy following his conquest of Ulster the castle was in continual military use until 1928, despite sieges by the Scots, Irish, English and French it is very well preserved. IgoUgo guide Drever wrote about this castle in his excellent journal "Three Days In Belfast". His in depth historical review of this castle is tops.

There are three floors of exhibits inside the massive walls but beware, as you enter beneath the gatehouse (1228-1242) the Murder Hole above your head has been known to rain down boiling tar on unwanted visitors. Seriously, this castle is one of the best I have seen and I would suggest touring the outside walls prior to visiting the interior just to get a feel for its lofty position. The clever use of model historic figures and panel boards chronicling the castles history make the visit a pleasure.

Following the number plan in the pamphlet issued with our tickets we started the tour in the oldest part of the castle and finished at the gatehouse. Information boards at each point illustrate the history of the area. I particularly enjoyed the model of the castle in the keep. The banqueting hall looked kind of modern and its moderate size was surprising. The staircases throughout where definitely easier to climb but not authentic. On the third floor the solar room housed a huge chess set and snake and ladder game, medieval clothing and dress up stuff were a big hit with the school group ahead of us.

The inner courtyards models of John de Courcy on horseback, his wife Princess Affreca gazing out from a window seat to her homeland the Isle of man and the rampart views over the Lough gave my imagination a boost.

Unfortunately during our visit extensive construction marred our access to many areas including the Postern Gate the castles escape route and the sea tower lookout. The French attacked the castle in 1760 and in the interior court you can see models of the defending soldiers and the grand Battery models of soldiers readying to defend against Napoleon should he have the audacity to invade.

The chapel window dates back over 800 years but this is viewed through glass. All in all we had a pleasant visit, the models and information boards certainly helped. The visitor center and gift shop is well stocked with books and gifts and I must say this castle is very very impressive.

This city emits optimism. Construction and rebuilding is apparent everywhere from the motorways to the city center. Giant cranes tower over the world’s largest dry dock and the nearby Odyssey center stuns. During the industrial revolution Belfast boomed, linen, rope- making, and shipbuilding increased the town’s population greatly. Those industries are responsible for magnificent public buildings, monuments, and gardens that make this Victorian city a pleasure to visit.

Our visit occurred on a Sunday therefore public buildings were closed, we opted for a city sightseeing bus tour " City Sightseeing Belfast," one of the hop on hop off type with sixteen stops. We didn’t get off the packed bus and the total tour was around 90 minutes.

Our first stop was the port; only its giant yellow cranes remain, in truth there is not yet much to see but the guide pointed out a red building where the Titanic plans were drawn and future sight of a Titanic exhibition. Beside the port is Belfast’s landmark entertainment building Odyssey, boasting Indoor arena, restaurants, Imax, and interactive discovery center.

Stops two to four passed by the Hilton Hotel, waterfront hall and many old re-furbished buildings. The Albert Memorial Clock erected 1853 has a very definite lean of around four feet due to its marshy foundation. It is an attractive sandstone monument and the lean gives it a bit of character. We passed by St Anne’s Cathedral and noted the Celtic cross on the west wall. It is purported to be he largest Celtic cross in Ireland but we saw one in Letterkenny that seemed to be about the same size. Charming cobbled streets and alleyways of the cathedral quarter house artists and cafes.

Stops five through eleven and the major focus of the tour took us through Crumlin Rd, Shankill, and Falls Rd. I cannot put into words what I felt on seeing these murals, to say they were disturbing is putting it mildly. I had seen photographs of them but was not prepared for the magnitude and messages. Whole gable ends and public walls are covered in images that often salute armed and hooded figures, I saw the word Murder so many times I wondered about the minds of the children who see those pictures daily. Both neighborhoods fly flags and buntings not really a sign of patriotism but as territorial markers that must antagonize the "other side". Many tourists desire to see this aspect of the city but after seeing them I feel terror tourism does not embrace Belfast at all. In my opinion it’s a cold kind of peace so long as murals remain.

Stops twelve to sixteen took us through the University district, botanic gardens and along the "Golden Mile" past the Grand Opera House, Europa Hotel, Crown bar and the stunning City Hall.

Tours every 15 minutes, Saturday through Sunday from 10am to 4:30pm.
Monday through Friday: 30-40 minutes. From March to October.

From November to February tours every 45-60 minutes Monday through Friday. Saturday and Sunday 30 to 45 minutes.

The O Neil’s once ruled Ulster from their hilltop castle at Dungannon, they ruled for five centuries but all traces of their medieval castle has disappeared and in its place stands a Georgian mansion.

Our reason for visiting Dungannon was chiefly to explore the Linen Green, a refurbished Linen mill on the outskirts of the town, formerly the mill was named after the ancient village Moygashel. Moygashel Mill was established around 1795 by Huguenot weavers who fled from French persecution, it became a principle center of the Irish linen industry and for two hundred years provided work for many skilled textile workers. Today the complex houses Craft, Designer, and high-end outlet stores.

The Design and Visitor Center showcases exhibitions by top class textile designers plus an exhibition on the rich industrial and textile history of the area. The center’s refurbishing reflects the characteristics of a village; its shop fronts in colours of ochre’s, pinks and yellows and stone walkways blend in with the streetscape of earlier times.
We purchased some lovely linens taking advantage of overseas shipments and affordable prices. The handmade crafts were very tempting and of top quality alas, not in our budget.

We had lunch in the Loft coffee bar at the visitor center, high ceilings, gleaming wood floors and comfy couches around the room, its size being very indicative of its mill theme. The loft specializes in local food and everything is fresh, it can get crowded because of coach parties but we were lucky we visited on a slow day (Monday).
Opening times: Mon through Saturday from 10am to 5pm. Disabled access available.

On our way back to Creggan we stopped in Dungannon, finding a convenient parking spot close by the Market Square. Dungannon is a splendid town (12,000 inhabitants), filled with flowers and well kept locally owned stores. The shopping and business area radiates from the market square, a narrow warren of steep streets. A row of attractive Georgian and Victorian buildings ablaze with fuchsia boxes and masses of greenery can be viewed on your way into the town, even the main traffic circle was filled with shrubs of all hues and a circle of flowered butterfly wreaths in a riot of purples and yellows.

A major building of interest was the former police station; at first glance it looks like a castle with protruding openings for missile throwing. Legend has it that the building plans were mixed up and the plans for this station were originally intended as a fort designed to guard the Khyber Pass. Presently the area around the station is undergoing construction and it was difficult to obtain a photograph, however, I did get the turrets.

We continued our stroll, in the space of a hundred yards we pass two florists, a greengrocer, two cafes, an antique shop, and an equal number of pubs; to our surprise one of them had our name on it and as one cannot possibly pass up the chance to connect long lost ancestors, and so we entered, gasping through a fug of cigarette smoke, unlike the republic, smoking is legal in Ulster’s public buildings. Once our eyes adjusted we noticed two of the barstools were occupied by a bearded construction worker and a clean shaven fellow in a natty suit, background music was low and a television was on without the sound. We ordered Guinness, a pint for Neil and a small one for me (with blackcurrant to take off the tarry taste). The barman poured the drinks following the ritual of letting it stand for a few minutes to allow it to settle, I am convinced that in Ireland all barmen use this settling time to ask you who you are, where you are from, and why you are here. We tell him our story and our name. The other customers listen and nod. The bartender was not a Hagan but the natty black suit was definitely a talker, he knew loads of Hagan’s in this “very town” and began a thirty minute bombardment of complex historical and genealogical detail that is par for the course in the world of Gaelic heraldry. I will say this he was very articulate, (what Irishman isn’t?). A pleasant interlude in a very pleasant town.