It’s mid-morning. We’ve left the relatively open water and are negotiating a channel, called Errera, that gets narrower and narrower the further we go. As we penetrate it, we find ourselves dodging ice floes. (Our ice-reinforced bow crushes the smaller ones, but we must still avoid the larger chunks.) The bridge calls our attention to a pair of whales, just off the port bow, that appear to be escorting us through the channel.
The weather’s foul, but the clouds glow with quicksilver-like luminosity. As we progress, the channel widens, the overcast lightens, and, as the sun emerges, we turn into a photo-perfect bay. The Captain announces that passengers, who aren’t normally allowed in the...Read More