Ecuador: a unique blend of Andes, Jungles, Beaches, Cultures and History

Ecuador is a beautiful country. I visited practically everything, except the Ecuadorian Amazon, Baños, Ingapirca and Galápagos. The whole country is beautiful, and there is not a single place I would not recommend visiting... Unlike most other Latin American countries, that have a strong European influence, the population in Ecuador is still mostly of native Indian extraction (52% of the population). And especially south of AMBATO, there is a high percentage of Collas that dress with their typical lively-colored clothes. Ecuador formed part of the Inca empire, and the most important live testimony of their presence are the INGAPIRCA ruins. GUAYAQUIL is the largest city and Quito is the capital. This country has two delicious attractions: Quito and Cuenca. Both are colonial cities, founded nearly five centuries ago by the Spaniards. The country can be clearly divided in three areas: THE COAST, THE ANDES, AND THE JUNGLE. THE ANDES is the most beautiful and safest part of the country, and covers TULCAN, IBARRA, QUITO, AMBATO, RIOBAMBA, CUENTA AND LOJA. Quito was founded in 1534, and Cuenca in 1557. Before Cuenca was founded, already half a dozen villages had been founded: Portoviejo, Loja, Guayaquil, Zaruma, and Zamora. So there are many historical places to discover. But the whole country is beautiful. The Andes are colorful and nave snow all year round. If you stay at Quito, the best option is the Quito Hotel. The rooms have a beautiful view towards the green valley, and the restaurant on the top floor has an incredible panoramic view of the whole city. When I stayed there a room was costing some 80 dollars per night, and the restaurant was completely inexpensive. THE COAST is the area covered by GUAYAQUIL, MACHALA, PIÑAS and a couple of tourist destinations: MANTA, ESMERALDAS and SALINAS. Manta is an average beach with nothing special. Esmeraldas is an oil producing area, and I have not visited Salinas, that is said to be the most beautiful beach. THE JUNGLE: This area is fantastic and fishing is incredible. NAPO is the main city, is still a small town, I was on business and did not have the chance to visit it. Mountains more than 22,000 feet high, beautiful rivers, jungles, historical places like Ingapirca and Portoviejo… Ecuador really deserves a visit. Give it a try… And wherever you go, don’t miss QUITO, undoubtedly the most beautiful city.

Quick Tips:

Hotels: QUITO: I had a delightful stay at the Hotel Quito (5 stars); it has a panoramic view of the Andes and its swimming pool is nice; its restaurant in the last floor has a fantastic view of the city. The hotel República is a nice hotel if you want to spend less money. SANTO DOMINGO: Hotel Casino Zaracay (3 stars) has a beautiful setting and a lovely park. AMBATO: the Hotel Ambato (3 stars), has a nice panoramic view (4 stars, I would rate it as a 3-star hotel). RIOBAMBA: Hotel El Cisne (2 stars) is a good and inexpensive option. CUENCA: The hotel Oro Verde La Laguna (5 stars) has a beautiful location on a lagoon on the Tomebamba river. It could be expensive, but its location two miles away from the downtown, is the ideal place for relaxing. Enjoy seeing rainbow trout swimming in the small irrigation ditch in front of the hotel. If you want a cheaper option, Hotel Ciudad de Cuenca (4 stars) or hotel Catedral (one star) are OK. MACHALA: Hotel Oro Verde (5 stars) is the best, and the hotel Rizzo is fairly good, and far cheaper.

Best Way To Get Around:

Consider renting a car, but remember that after heavy rain landslides occur on the highways south of Cuenca. Keep it in mind, and if it starts to rain heavily, try to get out of the area. The highway department machines will clear the road in 3 or 4 hours, but you will not be able to get any food, or milk for the baby, while you are there... Bus services are very poor, and cheap. Ecuador and Venezuela have the poorest bus services in all Latin America. Fortunately, distances are short, and there are flights between the most important cities (Guayaquil, Quito, Cuenca). The coast is more dangerous than the Andes, especially Guayaquil, a city that does not have anything special. Manta is an average beach, and I have not been at Salinas. The cities you should not miss are Quito and Cuenca. The road from Quito to Santo Domingo de los Colorados is beautiful, and has a couple of beautiful waterfalls. The road towards the border with Colombia (Tulcán-Ipiales) is worthwhile visiting. And in the north you will find beautiful leather handcrafts. I am giving more information in the additional travel notes.

If you asked me which are in my opinion the six nicest cities of Latin America, I would say: Merida (Venezuela), Quito (Ecuador), Manizales (Colombia), Río (Brazil), Valdivia (Chile) and Punta del Este (Uruguay). And I have visited every single country in Latin America during nine years on business.

Quito is one of the oldest cities in Ecuador, founded nearly five centuries ago, and is divided in two very specific areas: the new city, that is modern, with skyscrapers and wide avenues, and the old city, completely colonial, with many charming historical buildings. Both areas are separated by a tunnel, and walking through the whole city means going up and down hills… Obviously I did not discover all the places that the city has to offer, because I have found in the www.iexplore.com gallery some charming places I had never heard about.

I prefer staying in the hotel Quito because although Quito is a large city with over one million inhabitants, at the hotel Quito (first an Intercontinental hotel, then a Best Western, I do not know who operates it just now) you seem to be in the middle of nowhere, looking towards a green valley, behind which you see the mountainside, and far away from everything. But you just cross the lobby, and you are in the downtown… As I mentioned in the overview, the restaurant is on the top floor and has an incredible view of the city in all directions.

Climate is wonderful in Quito, you can sunbathe the whole year round, although weather is not very warm. Average highs are in the high sixties, and average lows in the low fifties, just an eternal spring…

I have also stayed at the hotel Presidente, a nice 3-star hotel that offers half-rate over the weekend (keep this in mind).

The Tambo Real hotel used to very inexpensive, but now it is a Best Western and has been rated as a 5-star hotel.

Of course, Sheraton, Howard Johnson, Radisson and Best Western also have their hotels in this beautiful city.

It is a city to enjoy thoroughly, and if you are fond of history and museums, you should not miss it.

PLACES TO VISIT FROM QUITO

SANTO DOMINGO DE LOS COLORADOS (one hour and a half by bus): you will go bordering mountains covered with tropical vegetation and enjoying some beautiful waterfalls.

AMBATO, RÍOBAMBA AND LOJA: Three nice mountainside cities, although not the most beautiful.

CUENCA: By far, the most beautiful city in southern Ecuador and the second city of the country. It is a university city, has many historical buildings, and the scenic view of the Tomebamba river, with Indian washwomen washing their clothes in the river and drying them on the grass, and a panoramic view of old colonial buildings literally "hanging over" the cliffs that border the city, really justify a visit.

MACHALA: The most important banana producing area in Ecuador that produces some of the best bananas of the world.

LAGOS DE MORENO, OTAVALLO AND TULCAN: On the way up towards the border with Colombia, the landscape becomes arid in parts. There is a lovely water slide before you come to Tulcan, and some areas as populated by African extraction farmers. Otavallo is THE place for buying leather articles in Ecuador. There is a large variety of shops and articles.

Quito -and Ecuador- have a lot of charming places and unforgettable experiences to offer you. Start packing your bags...

This is a beautiful trip, all along the Andes, and viewing some of the highest mountains of the country, as the Cotopaxi, Cayambe and Chimborazo,the highest mountain in Ecuador (21,000 feet high, or 6310m). The whole trip takes some 8 hours (280 miles)and there are mountains and foothills all the way.

We will pass in front of the Cotopaxi volcano, will go through Ambato, a city that was destroyed by an earthquake in 1949, killing six thousand people. Today there is no evidence of this natural disaster, and the city has recovered completely from this event. From Ambato southwards, passing in front of the Chimborazo volcano, the highest in Ecuador, through Riobmba and Loja, we will see native Indians dressed with their colorful clothes, and will really enjoy the countryside, at some times bordering beautiful rivers.

I should say at this point that the city of Cuenca is older even than Quito and has a larger number of historical buildings, so if you do not go to Cuenca you do not have the complete picture...

This trip would not be complete if we do not continue all the way down to Machala (another 120 miles), through Piñas, to see what is probably the largest banana producing area in the whole world.

If you wish to make stops along this road, I would recommend the hotel Ambato in Ambato, a nice 3 star hotel with a good panoramic view, the Chimborazo Internacional at Ríobamba (also 3 stars), although I stayed at a cheaper hotel, El Cisne, that was comfortable, and at Cuenca I have stayed at 3 different hotels (Catedral, a one-star budget hotel, Ciudad de Cuenca (4 stars, very nice, but in the downtown) and La Laguna (5 stars, facing a beautiful Lagoon, this hotel belongs to Oro Verde Hotels, a leading hotel company in Ecuador). I have written a separate report on this hotel.

You should definitely visit the Cajas National Park, where there are literally dozens of lagoons in the mountainside, and where you can practice rainbow trout fishing with good results.

Finally, in Machala you have a budget hotel (Rizzo), although the best option is the Oro Verde hotel (that used to be a two-star hotel, was remodeled for the Football World Cup, now belongs to Oro Verde hotels, and has been rated as a five star hotel…Now it has a swimming pool, very important in a warm area like Machala…

If you travel driving a car, and it has rained heavily, pay special attention to the highway, because sometimes between Cuenca and Machala a landslide can literally cut the road and it could take a good while until the Highways Department clears the road again.

On the way to Manta you go through Portoviejo, that is one of the oldest cities in Ecuador. I have stayed at the hotel Portoviejo (phone 2632105) but the hotel Ejecutivo (phone 2632105)seems to be better.

In Manta there are many hotels, including an Oro Verde and a Howard Johnson. If you want a budget hotel in Manta, try the hotel Inca; I have stayed there, and it had acceptable comfort. I

I was not very impressed with the Ecuadorian beaches, (however, I must say that I have never gone to Salinas, that is supposed to be the best Ecuadorian beach).

I hope I have not bored you with so many details, I only wish to be useful.

The web page called www.enjoyecuador.net has far more information on this beautiful country.

During nine years I visited this country periodically as supervisor of a USA-based non-profit association. Although occasionally I stayed at the home of some friend, more than ninety percent of the times I stayed at different hotels.

These are my recommendations based on that experience: GUAYAQUIL: Here I stayed at the home of some friends. The best hotels in this city are Hilton, Best Western, Oro Verde, and Ramada.

QUITO: I stayed at two different hotels in this city: Hotel Quito and Hotel República. The Hotel Quito was an Intercontinental hotel at that time, then became a Best Western. The hotel is large (215 rooms), but is very quiet. It is located in a beautiful panoramic viewpoint. Although it is in the downtown, the view from your room overlooks a beautiful valley, behind which you only see mountains. But you cross the lobby and you are already in the city. It has a very nice swimming pool, and sauna. The restaurant on the last floor has a fantastic panoramic view of the city. It is open in the evening; at noon you have lunch at the cafeteria, by the side of the swimming pool. Address: Gonzalez Suarez 2500, phones (593) (2) 254 4600, (593) (2) 256 6674. A standard room costs approximately 100 dollars per night. The other hotel I stayed at in Quito was the Hotel República (4 stars, that I would rate as a 3-star hotel.) It is well located, is comfortable, located at Av. Republica and Azuay, phones (593) (2) 243 6553 and (593) (2) 251 2711. A standard room costs approximately 36 dollars per night. It has no swimming pool. It offers special rates on week-ends. In Quito you will find 3 star hotels at some 20 to 25 dollars per night, but I would recommend any of these two, with which I was completely satisfied.

AMBATO: I stayed at the Gran Hotel Ambato (4 stars) with a nice panoramic view, and not too expensive. RIOBAMBA: I stayed at the Hotel El Cisne, a budget hotel with reasonable comfort. LOJA: I remember having stayed at a very cheap hotel here, but do not remember the name. At that time a room with private bathroom was costing five dollars per night. These are two of the main hotels here (Loja is a relatively small city): Aguilera Internacional, phone (593-6) 257.2892; Grand Hotel Loja, phone (593-6) 257.5200.

CUENCA: I stayed at 3 different hotels in this city: Oro Verde (5 stars), Ciudad de Cuenca (4 stars), and Catedral (1 star). The Oro Verde hotel (previously known as La Laguna) is in a fantastic setting some 2 miles away from the downtown. It is on the Tomebamba river, at a place where the river forms a very nice lagoon. They had rainbow trout coming up and down the small ditch in the front. It is quite possible that the lagoon is stocked with trout. One of the pavilions of the hotel is constructed over the lagoon, while the main building faces it. Av Ordoñez Lasso s/n, phone (593 7) 2831200 - fax: (593 7) 2832849. The Ciudad de Cuenca hotel offers good comfort at substantially lower rates, Borrero 10 69 , phone (593 7): 833711. The hotel Catedral (the cheapest one where I stayed) was OK, although the wooden floor was rather squeaky. Its address and phone is Padre Aguirre 817, phone 282 3204. It is rated as a 2-star hotel, but I would give it one. I was also at a national convention of the association at the Hotel Crespo. The rooms did not impress me too much, but it is in a very nice location, facing the Tomebamba river.

MACHALA: Here I stayed at two hotels: Rizzo (3 stars) and what today is the Oro Verde hotel. The Rizzo Hotel is acceptable and obviously costs less than the Oro Verde. This last hotel has a swimming pool. SANTO DOMINGO DE LOS COLORADOS: I stayed at the Hotel Casino Zacaray. Beautiful setting, beautiful park. 4-stars. Phone (593-2) 2258359.

MANTA: Oro Verde and Howard Johnson are the best hotels here. I stayed at a budget hotel (El Inca) and cannot find it in the hotel directories. Room was OK, near the beach, very cheap. ESMERALDAS: This is not a tourist area, and there are very few hotels. PORTOVIEJO: One hotel I could recommend here as acceptable is the hotel Ejecutivo. Nothing special, but comfortable. Phone 2632105. IBARRA: I stayed at the hotel Ajaví, quite comfortable, phone 295-5555. OTAVALLO: I did not stay in this city, and therefore prefer to not recommend any hotels. There are 13 hotels in the city. TULCAN: It is on the border with Colombia, facing Ipiales. There are better hotels in Ipiales. Hope you will find this information useful.

Santo Domingo de los Colorados is a strategic point for travelling all Ecuador. The road from Quito to Santo Domingo goes through tropical forests, and crosses rivers with beautiful waterfalls. There are highways and bus services from Santo Domingo in all directions: to the coast (Manta and Portoviejo), to the north (Ibarra, Tulcán), to the capital (Quito), to the south (Ambato, Loja, Machala). The name of the population came from the Tsáchilas Indians that lived originally in this area, that had the custom of painting their hair red with vegetable extracts. It is an agricultural area, mostly dedicated to banana plantations, sugar cane and palm. It is also a beautiful town. It has a tropical climate, and some very nice hotels. I stayed at the Hotel Casino Zaracay, that has a beautiful park, with a small bird zoo and casino. It is a 4-star hotel and a nice place to stay.

The road from Quito to Santo Domingo is charming. You go through the Andes and down to a more tropical area. There are beautiful waterfalls in the mountainside, and it is a short trip (about and hour and a half). The road from Santo Domingo towards Portoviejo (an old colonial city) and Manta is full of banana plantations, although the main banana producing area is Machala, further south. The countryside is full of plantations on the mountainside. Although Manta has nothing special to offer regarding beaches, you will certainly enjoy the trip. You will enjoy your stay at Santo Domingo, and from there you can go to the coast (Manta, Esmeraldas, Guayaquil, and probably Salinas), to the border with Colombia (Tulcán, just in front of Ipiales), or to Cuenca and further down the border with Peru.

You can use Santo Domingo as your strategic base for visiting the whole country without changing hotels every day. The trip to the north will probably take some 4 hours, and there are very nice places far nearer (for example to buy leather articles in Otavallo). I really enjoyed my stay at Santo Domingo de los Colorados. It is a small town, but a very active strategic point in Ecuador. You can buy handcrafts on the street (mainly colorful Ecuadorian clothes) Give Ecuador a try; you will not regret it.

The road from Santo Domingo de los Colorados towards the North passes through beautiful places like San Juan de los Lagos and Ibarra, continuing to the international border with Colombia at Tulcan. There is a waterpark on the way up with a huge water slide. Ibarra is in front of a lake, and is a nice city to visit. And Tulcan is on the international border, and nearly forms one city with Ipiales (Colombia) from where you can continue travelling through Colombia towards Pasto, Popayan, and Cali. One word of caution, however. Travelling by road from Pasto to Cali is not recommended, it is (or used to be) a guerrila controlled area. It is better to take the plane from Ipiales or Pasto to Cali and then continue your travel by road or plane.