An August 2006 trip
to Victoria by lcampbell
Quote: My first overnight camping trip by bike, and a fun day in Canada for lunch by bike.
I have come to Victoria with my friend Ron to do my first overnight camping trip by bike. Our bikes are parked in the bike rack on the bow of the boat. I look at my bike, loaded with two panniers hanging from my rear rack, a tool kit under the seat, and a tent lashed onto the rear rack. I have lunch, clothing, toiletries, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad in my panniers – oh and don’t forget the passport, a possible new requirement for Americans to enter Canada. A handle bar bag holds my camera and a few other things. I hope there aren’t any hills – I think biking will be a little harder than I am used to on this trip.
After disembarking, we cautiously head into the crazy traffic. We can see our destination, a big blue bridge, called the Johnson Street Bridge. We make it safely over (thank you courteous Canadian drivers!) and a trail takes off to the north. We follow it to a junction pointing west for the Galloping Goose Trail and east for the Lochside Regional Trail (see separate entry), and take the turn onto the Goose toward Sooke, our final destination for the day.
The trail is a rails-to-trails project, converting what used to be a passenger rail system which included a noisy gas rail-car called the Galloping Goose (hence the name of the trail) that went between Victoria and Sooke in the 1920s. The whole trail is 60km, but we are going only 40km to Sooke.
The trail starts out in outer Victoria, still pretty urban. Although we are on a trail, we still have to stop often to cross busy streets. The trail occasionally runs right alongside the busy roads, and I hope we get more into the trees and rural area soon.
Well, right about when I was thinking that, we did indeed get to a long wooded stretch of trail. The trail has now turned to packed dirt and gravel. Not the best for thin-tired road bicycles, but perfect for Ron’s mountain bike and my hybrid bike. We mosey along at a casual pace, stopping by a small creek to eat our lunch, and later stopping at Matheson Lake Regional Park. We were going to go for a swim on the small beach, but it was super busy that day, and the small swimming area was packed with families and kids on all manner of floating animal toy. So instead we had a drink and watched the fun, then headed back up to the main trail.
The final stretch into Sooke had some fabulous views of the Straight of Juan de Fuca. There was a nice bench to stop and enjoy the view. On this stretch, there were some killer hills where the trail dropped down to cross a road, then climbed back up to the railroad grade. I assume there were originally trestles in these spots, which are now gone and are too expensive to replace. We exited down onto West Coast Road and entered Sooke.
In Sooke, we camped at Sooke River Flats Campground. This is a private campground on the Sooke River. There are geese (ahem, Canadian geese, of course) happily lazing by the river. There are only a handful of other people in the campground. I had been told by my more-experienced biker pals that people are always very interested to see people traveling by bicycle. As we set our tents, I find out first hand that this is true. The campground owner, as well as a few of our campground neighbors, stopped by to ask a lot of questions about biking the trail, what our plans are, and commenting on our little bivy tents. (See below for more campground details)
After setting up camp, we headed into town for a short hike on Whiffen Spit. First, however, on the way there, I had my first bicycle crash. Silly me, I was looking around for somewhere to have dinner after our hike, and I wasn’t paying attention to my front tire. I hit a curb dead on – going ass over teakettle (or body over bike) onto the pavement. Nothing was injured but my pride (thank you nice Canadian man who helped me up off the ground and picked up my bike!).
Still blushing from my own stupidity, I managed to finish following Ron west on West Coast Road then south on Whiffen Spit Road to Whiffen Spit, which divides Sooke Harbor from the Straight of Juan de Fuca. By the time we parked and locked the bikes, my ego had almost recovered, and we had a nice walk. The extra small opening into Sooke Harbor was interesting, and I especially loved looking back across the Straight of Juan de Fuca back to my own home, the Olympic Mountains.
Dinner was at Mom’s café (2036 Shields Road, just off West Coast Road). The first thing Ron said before we went in was that he had learned over his 69 years that you should never eat at a place called "Moms" or one that advertises that it serves "Eats." Well, this place had both disqualifiers, but since we hadn’t seen much else, and it looked pretty cute and busy, we went in. I am happy to report that we have now proven Ron’s theory wrong! He pronounced his salmon and vegetables "really great" and my all-day breakfast was delish (of course how can you go wrong with all-day breakfast?) Again, the Canadians lived up to their friendly reputation, and we chatted with folks at the booth across from us. I personally think they wanted to find out if Ron and I were father and daughter, or some kind of unconventional couple. We are neither, but hee hee- we kept ‘em guessing!
We didn’t have time, but if possible, I think it would be best to spend two nights in Sooke, spending the middle day biking 20km farther up (and 20km back) the Galloping Goose Trail to the end at Leechtown, and stopping at the Sooke Potholes Provincial Park for a dip along with way.
The trip back was fairly unremarkable, except my second embarrassing incident involving sitting in gum. Ah… my life is slapstick….
For more information, check out these websites:
Galloping Goose TrailSooke River Flats CampgroundSooke Region Museum/Visitor Infor CentreSooke Community WebsiteSooke TourismCoho FerrySooke Potholes Regional ParkGalloping Goose Trail B&B groupMatheson Lake Regional Park
To reach Sooke River Flats Campground: Exit the Galloping Goose Trail onto West Coast Road and continue west. After crossing over the Sooke River on the bridge, take the first right onto Phillips Road. At this intersection is also the Sooke Regional Museum and Visitor Information Center (daily 9am-5pm). Follow Phillips Road to the campground, which is on the right on the river. Open April 1 – September 31, $18 CAN without hookups. Phone: (250) 642-6076, Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Another note about the trail is that I found a distinct lack of toilet facilities – be warned!
We left on the 8am ferry. As a dozen of us approached the Customs agents with our bicycles in tow, I’m not sure they knew what to think of us.
"We’re biking to Sidney for lunch!" one of the bikers said. "Yep, us too!" another biker couple smiled. But the agents handled us efficiently, despite their thoughts of our insanity, as did the ferry employees, who told us where the bike rack was as we boarded the boat. After all, don’t those crazy Canadians do the same thing? One Victoria biking club I know comes over once per year to bike from Port Angeles to Sequim – and I bet they go to lunch and then head back home.
Well, we filled that rack up with bikes, and headed inside to overwhelm the other passengers with our spandex outfits. (Side note: why so much spandex? I guess I haven’t been biking long enough to have the answer to that yet… I’ll keep ya posted!)
The boat slowed as we entered Victoria Harbor. The city is extreme beautiful as we arrive by boat – with the marina and float planes landing, the Empress Hotel covered in ivy, and the impressive Legislative Building. We file off the boat, strap on our helmets, and follow the leader over the Johnson Street Bridge, which is big and blue and we can see it from the dock, so figure we can’t get lost.
The trail starts on the right just after we cross the bridge. After just a few minutes of pedaling, we first see this really great industrial looking apartment complex which was very hip, I must say. Shortly beyond that is the 100-meter Switch Bridge, then is a trail junction, where the trail heads west to Sooke and is called the Galloping Goose Trail (see separate entry) or east to Sidney and Swartz Bay, which is where we head.
This portion of trail is called the Lochside Regional Trail. Most of the 29km length of it stays in urban and suburban areas following an old railroad grade. Actually, I was a little surprised to see that a huge section of it just follows a neighborhood road. Granted, it wasn’t a super busy road, but I would have felt safer on a true trail. Lochside Regional Trail has lots of signs, but they are sometimes small, so we had to make sure to keep diligent watch for them so as not to get lost. Occasionally we had to whistle to the front man (aka Speedy) to come back, as he wasn’t paying attention and missed a turn.
Before reaching Sidney, we got some great views of the water. The day was so clear, we had a surprisingly stunning view of Mount Baker. Surprising because I didn’t know that we would end up facing that direction and because the view was especially clear that day.
When we reached Sidney, we didn’t know where we were going, but naturally ended up following roads leading to the waterfront. There were a plethora of restaurants to choose from, most in about the same price range (not cheap, but maybe I just thought so because of the crappy exchange rate). We ended up at Pier 1 at the bottom of Beacon Street on the waterfront. With so many of us, we worried about overwhelming the waitress and cooks – but they were fabulous and served us with speed and accuracy, and good food to boot! Most of us had grilled sandwiches and cold iced tea. The salads were also very good.
After lunch, we started pedaling back in a lazy manner. But as the ferry departure time approached, and we were no where near back to Victoria, we kicked it into overdrive! There was no slow cruises past painted murals – we were simply blurs going by the artwork. I’m sure some of us have never moved so fast! Being careful not to run over any walkers on the trail, and then careful but fast in making it through downtown traffic back to the dock, we made it with only 5 minutes to spare. We all grinned in relief, happy we didn’t have to wait 4 hours for the next boat.
We laughed and joked at our adventure all the way back to Port Angeles, looking for dolphins and whales out the windows. I was just happy to know such great, nice, fun, badass friends who liked to the same crazy things as me!
For more information, check out these websites:
Lochside Regional TrailSidneyCoho FerryWashington State FerriesBC Ferries
The Lochside Regional Trail traverses the Saanich Peninsula. It goes through Sidney, which also has the Washington State ferry to Anacortes on the U.S. San Juan Islands. Beyond Sidney, the trail also goes to the BC ferry dock in Swartz Bay – with the ferry giving access to Tsawwassen and the Canadian Gulf Islands.
Another note about the trail is that I found a distinct lack of toilet facilities – be warned!
Port Angeles, Washington