Out And About In County Tyrone

The Sperrins is an area of natural beauty. Located in the West of Northern Ireland it stretches from the Donegal border, Lough Neagh in the East and to the Atlantic shores in the North.

Wandering gloriously deserted landscapes, exploring villages with a "Ballykissangel" sort of atmosphere is part of the charm. The landscape is not wild and craggy like Connemara or Donegal but is undulating and restful. Lush green fields spotted with sheep and cows are framed within dry stonewalls and hedges scarlet with fuchsia and holly berries. Sunbeams bounce around rainbows but you don’t have to follow that rainbow to find the treasure because it is right there in front of your eyes.

Throughout the area solitary trees stand smack in the middle of a plowed field they are "Fairy Thorns" according to folklore anyone who cuts them will die. (Hawthorn and Blackthorn.)

Archeological sites many of National and international interest are scattered throughout the region and are well promoted, however, be warned many are inaccessible requiring treks over rough ground in stout waterproof footwear and a healthy respect toward cows with horns!

Our base in county Tyrone proved to be well chosen. Tyrone is the least populated, and I would suggest, the most friendly and picturesque. Whitewashed stone farmhouses with brightly painted doors are a distinctive part of the landscape. Tourists are treated with friendly interest, in fact it is difficult to get out of a store without reciting your reasons for choosing the north over the south and detailed examination of ancestral linage, (theirs and yours).

Indeed we were delighted with our first visit to Ulster, the areas unfortunate reputation still deters many and that’s a shame because some of the most beautiful scenery in Europe is to be found here.

The coast of Antrim offers a truly spectacular drive through lovely Glens before culminating in the awesome Giants Causeway. Further south the Mountains Of Mourne really do "sweep down to the sea." Inland are historic towns like Armagh, and of course Belfast, a city of lovely buildings and culture that seems to be shedding it’s troubled past.

All in all we traveled just short of two thousand miles requiring me to write three journals and will need to spend a further three weeks in March to re visit some favorite places and seek out new ones.

Quick Tips:

Pick up scenic route maps of the Sperrin area from An Creaghan Visitors center (028 8076 1112); Omagh Tourist Information Center and most tourist offices throughout the county. The Maps are clear and four scenic driving routes are promoted. Central, South, East and North Sperrins. Each map includes: information on the scenic areas with specific entries to national sites plus accommodation possibilities and unique attractions.

We explored most of the central Sperrins and touched on all the remaining routes. They are all well worth visiting but be warned the roads are narrow, winding and yes some even have grass between them.


Ardboe Old Cross, 10th century cross on a rocky shore believed to be the first high cross of Ulster is over 18 ft high and its panels depict various biblical scenes. (Central Route.)


Beaghmore stone circles, mysterious complex of Bronze Age stone circles possibly reflecting ritual and spiritual activities. (East Route.)


Wellbrook Beetling mill, nestled in an idyllic wooded valley this original mill exhibits different processes of this important 19th-century industry. Beetling means to beat the cloth to obtain sheen. Unfortunately this mill was closed for the season and will re-open at the end of May (closes Sept 29). We did hike around the mill and the valley behind it, the surrounding views are well worth a short climb. (East Route)


Ulster American Folk Park, one of the most visited sites in County Tyrone giving the visitor a glimpse into the Life the Irish Emigrants left behind and the life that awaited them in their new land. Do not skip this attraction. (South Route.)

Gorton Lakes and Glen Forest Park, a five-mile forest drive and stunning walks around the lake. (South Route.)

Best Way To Get Around:

I have to say the motoring Irish are totally devoid of aggression but they are impatient and fast! They retain that old-country style of giving you the finger that is unlike the North American way or intent. For any courtesy or just to say hi they will raise a finger off the steering wheel especially on country roads as if you’re the only person they have seen all week, no matter that all kinds of traffic whiz by even on the tiniest road.

Country roads suggest 50 miles per hour when I felt safer at twenty. Another phenomena is the Irish Cadillac, huge tractors that seem to always dart out of a cross road so you can have the pleasure of trailing it forever (kay, it just seems like forever) there is no room to maneuver yet five cars usually driven by speeding ladies will overtake all from three cars lengths behind. Some signs indicate "Blind Summits" but most do not give a warning, some of the hedgerows obscure warning signs and rain does not impede the flow, they are fearless, or know the road better than the tourists. Frequently the Mail van will block the road while they have a confab or even a cup of tea. You need to be patient. We once followed a farm truck carrying an impressive load of steaming pig fertilizer for ten miles, I can tell you our sinuses were very clear at the end of that journey.

Renting a car is your best bet unless you are based in Belfast and avail yourself of public transport, however, there is so much off the beaten track, the national roads and motorways are well marked. Rush hour traffic is a problem on the M1 and M2 so try to avoid  from 4:30pm to 6pm traffic.

There is a National Cycle Network and the Sperrins cycle map highlights 12 circular way marked routes. The area doesn’t have many traffic free trails but it is sparsely populated. The Sperrins routes vary in distance from 11 miles to 41 miles and are suitable for the average cyclist. Sperrins Cycling breaks are offered through An Creagan Visitor Center. We originally intended to take advantage of the Cycles but due to some minor health concerns I couldn’t take part.

Route maps can be obtained from the Tourist Information offices throughout Northern Ireland, An Creagan, or purchased online.

We didn’t stay in this beautiful cottage but through talking with the Vincent the homes owner over a Guinness in the An Creagan bar we received an invite to visit. Briege his wife was very friendly gave us the key and left us to explore. She also explained they also open their home as a bed and breakfast facility and for those visitors at the self catering house breakfast can be arranged. Both properties are NITB certified.

The original cottage was built in the eighteenth century and has been restored, a labor of love by Vincent and Bridget. Its location close by An Creaghan visitor center puts it within four miles of the Sperrin Mountains and minutes to the small village of Carrickmore.

Warm wooden floors gleam through the home except for the kitchen and bathroom areas which are stone tiled. There are four bedrooms sleeping a total of ten. Two rooms sleep three holding one double and one single bed all bedrooms are furnished with pine furniture with warm yellow walls. Two of the bedrooms are on the first floor making it ideal for the handicapped; one bedroom has a full ensuite bathroom and the main bathroom a bath and shower unit. All the beds are covered in thick duvets and crisp sheets. I noticed that the linen cupboard was filled with sweet smelling towels and extra blankets.

The sitting room is warm and inviting, its huge stone fireplace was salvaged from the original house. I loved the dining area, beautiful pine dining set framed by a set of French doors that open onto to a garden. There is also a half loft filled with light for reading, or just relaxing while you view the stunning landscape.

The kitchen is fully equipped with honey pine furniture and open cupboards. I loved the ambience in this house. Outside the owners have provided a private boreen road, guests can enjoy quiet hikes or you can just set up an easel and paint. It is a quiet private place and certainly the views are superb. The home is centrally heated throughout and a television video unit is located in the living room. There is a pay phone in the hallway and a utility house housing a washer and dryer plus a barbecue house so that you can barbecue in the rain.
This accommodation offers freedom, space and a place to shrug off the cares of the world and an opportunity to enjoy the Irish rural life.

We were very pleased with the accommodation here and were reluctant to leave. Clachan means small village or gathering, these cottages are not old but were designed to reflect traditional settlements of this area.

The cottages are located in the grounds of An Creagan a nature reserve that allows its visitors a delightful glimpse into a bygone way of rural life. They offer eight cottages comprising three, two, and one bedroom accommodation; all have working fireplaces and are centrally heated. There is a well-equipped kitchen and the properties are sparkling clean and devoid of damp.

Our two story one bedroom was just right for our needs and I loved the traditional red half door, every morning on my way to the kitchen I opened the door for a weather check, I felt like a child playing house, it was enchanting.

Washing up was no chore because the view from the kitchen window overlooked the woods, magpies and goldfinches abounded and one morning I saw I sleek red fox dart across the path.

The living area was dominated by a cozy fireplace flanked by two comfortable armchairs, when we returned each evening Neil made up a turf fire while I poured the wine and rustled up a meal.

To the left of the fireplace was a Cult-Tighe (cultyee) known as the bed outshot, traditional architecture of the sperrins. An extension at the rear of the house along the gable wall forms an enclosure just big enough for a bed that serves as a seat by day and single bed at night pregnant women used this during the latter stages of their confinement.

The dining table positioned in front of glass double doors proved a magnet during meals and journal writing; a great expanse of gorse, heather, forest, and the Sperrins in the distance beckoned us outdoors. Fat juicy blackberries were still profuse and on one of our hikes I picked enough for a delicious crumble, no stinting with cream and butter, delicious!

The second floor had a large bedroom with double bed, iron/ board and loads of cupboards, my only complaint concerned the mattress which was covered in vile heavy blue plastic, great for the incontinent and young children but acts like a sauna during sleep sucking the life out of post menopausal bodies, however, John assured me the mattresses are all being replaced in November.

The bathroom was always lovely and warm with a shower bathtub combination. TV with a choice of four channels and phone was also included.

This place is great as a base and would suit most travelers, however, a car is necessary and if you like to walk to village pubs this is not the place. There is a small grocery store within a five-minute walk and it is open until 9pm. Hiking trails are clearly marked and bicycles are available free to guests they include Helmet, maps and rain cover.

We visited off-season and so were fortunate to enjoy this tranquil setting sans crowds. We didn’t eat here daily, however, we were quite satisfied with the meals we had. The An Creaghan dining room is furnished in the traditional Irish country style, use of stone and wood and crackling fire adds to the ambience. The floor to ceiling windows overlook Floodlit wooded areas and a duck pond, the other main window overlooks the huge stone entrance and still more woods, a tranquil setting in which to enjoy a meal.

I noted locals frequent the restaurant during midweek and weekends. Cultural events and weddings venues are hosted here plus conventions. Traditional music and storytelling evenings are part of the attraction, well known artists hold workshops with a full calendar of events. I found myself wishing we could be here for Christmas after reading the Christmas Ceili program and imagining the roaring fires and warming up with spiked wine or hot toddies with cloves.

The staff are all friendly and efficient and genuinely care about customer satisfaction. The menu is varied and includes vegetarian options. Our meals always included a salad and I can attest the tomatoes are sweet and juicy, no added seasoning required. Bread is homemade of various grains and my favorite Soda bread was always available.

One night we enjoyed a feast, huge fresh Salad, and a cheese and Vidalia onion pie to die for, melt in your mouth buttery pastry truly sinful. Another favorite was vegetarian lasagna, piquant and certainly not gummy.

The regular menu offerings are beef, chicken, fish, salmon so fresh it looks alive, pink and plump. Portions were generous served on old-fashioned country plates; I noted the Roast beef Sunday lunch was always a sell out.

I love desserts and homemade cakes and comfort food abound here. Only the Irish make tea to my taste and that tea was brought out along with the dessert trolley holding pastries and piles of soda bread, buns and cakes along with crocks of fresh cream, butter and Blackberry jam, ah yes real cream no becal here.

Reservations would be required during summer months and for Sundays roast beef lunch.

Tullaghoge means hillock of warriors or youths and was the seat of the O Neils and O Hagans. The O Hagan’s were chief justices of Tyrone and presided over all crownings.

Searching for this fort proved easier than our previous attempts finding Court Tombs and standing stones. The turn into the parking area was located on a bad bend and as usual we had a large transport truck attached to our bumper, therefore we followed the road about a mile until we could safely make a u turn. We parked the car in the minuscule parking lot and walked for about ten minutes up a signed paved steep path.

This impressive hilltop fort once the crowning place of the O’Neil’s dates back to the eleventh century. It is located atop a renowned hill overlooking hilly pastoral countryside with super views north to Slieve Gallion. "The ONeil" (head of the family) ruled over the kingdom of Tyrone from the eleventh to latter sixteenth century and it was upon this hill they were crowned. Present day you need to use your imagination because at first glance it seems to be merely a green hilly mound.

There is a wide outer treed bank but no outer ditch. Within this outer bank and separated from it by a wide space is an oval inner enclosure with a raised saucer shaped interior. Many early defensive hill forts had two rings of banks and ditches to keep out enemies. This fort is different, its two banks set wide apart has a flat area in between and both banks have a gap in them so you can walk into the inner area which is raised in the middle like an upside down saucer; there is no defensive ditch.

During the crowning the King elect sat on a stone inauguration chair a golden sandal was thrown over his head, a symbolic act indicating that he would strive to walk in his ancestors footsteps. Sandals were placed on his feet and he was then anointed and crowned by the primate of Armagh. Saint Patrick was purported to have blessed the stone chair, however, Lord Mountjoy destroyed the chair in 1602 on orders of Queen Elizabeth the first. The breaking of the chair marked the end of the O Neil power in Ireland, the last O Neil was named Hugh who submitted to Lord Mountjoy and the crown in 1603.

It is a mystical green place; the only sounds were birds, cows, and a faint buzz of traffic. We spent an hour walking all around the outer enclosure and looking out over the countryside trying to imagine the scenes in by gone days. Just below the fort a circular wall surround the burial place of the O Hagan’s but a muddy-padlocked gate and indeterminate livestock bar access.

Prepare to spend a good chunk of a day here. The folk park tells the story of the Irish exodus from Ireland to America. You can glimpse the life they left behind and the life that awaited them in their new world. Costumed interpreters carry on daily tasks in authentically furnished and restored dwellings. The only Original building is the Thomas Mellon homestead. In 1818 at the age of five he immigrated with his parents to Pennsylvania, the cottage is the centerpiece of the park and as you compare it to the other poor dwellings the Mellons were indeed fortunate.

We started our tour inside at the Emigrants indoor Exhibition, which examines life in Ireland in the 18th-19th century. Sections cover people and places with stories of individuals, history of emigration, failure and success, transport covering ships and survival and prosperity.

Afterward we followed the signs outdoors and simply followed the well-marked paths. The first cottage was a famine house. Most of the poor lived in that type of dwelling, very dark interior with just one room and bed outshot, typical Sperrin architecture. The weaver’s cottage was just a touch larger but still dark and gloomy. Between the Mellon cottage and the poor cottages was a replica meeting house and a forge. It was pouring rain and so the peat-cutting exhibit was canceled and we wandered into the schoolhouse, this original building with two fireplaces was in service from 1845 until the early 60s.

Fortunately the rain ceased for a while and we strolled the old world section, its authentic Ulster Street comprises a creative restoration of 19th-century shops including a post office complete with a Victorian letterbox. The post office came from Mountjoy village it had served that town from 1861 until the early years of the 20th century. All of the stores are authentically furnished and shopkeepers explain many of the customs of the time.

From the Old world we walked along to the Ship and dockside gallery where we obtained our ticket for passage. The dockside buildings are original, some from Belfast and all re- erected.

Stepping onto the ship we were directed only below deck and what a horror. Four adults to a bunk, no toilets, only slop buckets to be emptied at the discretion of the Captain and row upon row of bunks, reminded me so much of the bunks in Auschwitz, it is no wonder they were known as coffin ships.

Upon exiting the ship you find yourself in the Promised Land and ripe for more exploitation. basement hell holes sleeping 40 families. Then onward to 19th-century Pennsylvania dwellings of those who made good. A very moving and interesting museum.

Open from April to September; through Monday to Saturday from 10:30am to 4:30pm. Museum closes at 6pm. Sunday and holidays from 11am to 5pm. Museum closes at 6:30pm.
From October to March; through Monday to Friday  from 10am to 3:30pm. There is a restaurant, and a coffee shop.

The Sperrin landscape is a rich tapestry of farmland, forest and hills. In the ice age this land was covered with thick sheets of ice that flattened out the mountains and widened the valleys. Many of the slopes across the Sperrin Mountains are draped in blanket bog, composed of the remains of vegetation that accumulated after Neolithic farmers began clearing wood to make way for agriculture.

Because the nature of the landscape encompasses moorland and bog farming is mainly cattle with arable crops restricted to suitable lowland. Turf (peat) is still used for heat but now the cutting is restricted because of ecological concerns, however, peat can be bought bagged at most gas station conveniences. We also purchased a 25kilo bag of coal for just over six dollars.

It is a place of quiet seductive beauty, walkers and cyclists can find so many off the beaten path routes that getting in touch with nature is a synch. We were fortunate because the forest path was literally outside our door and we walked daily. Our favorite was the Forest River walk trail. It is a 5.5 k walk that winds its way through thick woods beside a gurgling river (Glasbagh burn) I was enthralled by the bog moss (sphagnum) between the trees, it entwines like a bright green jewel beneath and around tree trunks, on one of our walks I was so busy looking at the moss I missed a huge group of pheasant and grouse. Neil said the pheasants were a riot of reds, purples and russet, it was the first time he had seen them up close. This trail is suitable for all ages, just walking and listening to the sound of the wildlife and rippling streams creates a private oasis of tranquility so needed in our day-to-day world.

Another walk we enjoyed was one around Gorton Lakes and into Gorton village. It is a sparsely populated area and Gorton Forest Park is very popular with serious hikers and cyclists. Gorton village is also the start for a popular 40k hike through the stunning Barnes gap (we drove through it due to time constraints).

Gorton Lakes are two lakes known in geological terms as kettle holes, lakes left behind by uneven melting of glaciers. The paths encircling the lakes open to spectacular vistas of the high Sperrrins. Picnic facilities and toilets are available and are well maintained.

During the end of one of our forest walks I spied a red coloured toadstool and was enchanted, it was just like a Child's drawing or the kind in fairy tale books with a fairy atop. However, thanks to Idler and her store of outdoor knowledge she identified it as Amanta Muscaria (magic Mushroom?) Thank you. However, I know that when I left that forest the resident fairy would regain her perch.

The Creggan Sperrins area is home to around 44 ancient sites, monuments, and burial chambers dating back beyond the Bronze Age and so after breakfast one morning we set out to check out three sites. The Ogham stone, Creggandevesky court tomb, and Beaghmore circles.

The Ogham stone is one of the few Oghams in Ireland. The ancient script probably Latin based was a 25-letter alphabet thought to be the earliest alphabet of the Celts and supposedly inspired by Ogma God of eloquence. This particular stone is marked by several of these letters.

The megalithic court tomb named Creggandevesky dates around 4.000-6.000 years old. During excavation the remains of 21 people were discovered along with pottery shards and flint tools. Purported to be the finest of its kind in Ireland and a national monument it is hard to understand its inaccessibility.

Beaghmore stone circles date from the early Bronze Age. It has been suggested that the circles and alignments have some connection to Astronomy and another popular theory suggests having served some function in fertility rites.

We soon discovered that despite main roads hosting large national monument signs once on the minor roads signs disappear and relatively few sites have official public access. Two of the sites were tucked away on squishy farmlands accessed by obscure pathways and impeded by large black creatures sporting horns.

Searching for the Ogham stone found us on a country road with grass growing up the middle, a sure indication that you are going the wrong way or the right way into a bog.

As we pondered our next move we noted an elderly man walking up the road, he was dressed in the garb of the farmer, tweed coat, flat cap and shiny well-worn pants.
Now there is a unwritten way of asking directions, never be crass enough to ask straight out, oh no you must greet and chat about the weather, listen to a host of stories then deftly request assistance, and so following a long explanation of the Hagan name (ours) we explained that we were looking for the Ogham stone. "Ah yes, ah yes"- pause, "Do you know it then?" Another pause "Sure I do I do" long pause, "Is it nearby?" Big sigh then his reply, "It is it in County Tyrone?" And so another winding bog lane and we ask a farmer who is plowing, he points to the adjoining field retorting "There it be but you wouldn’t want to mess with that bull." I managed to shoot off a photo and we gave up on our plans to examine the stone up close.

Back on the main road we followed two well-marked signs to the Cregganvedensky court Tomb. Pretty soon we were on a narrow road that reminded me of the slide seen at fairs, you climb into a sack and whiz quickly down undulating steel, only this road was half the width of the slide. We are lost, no further signs. However, we will not be thwarted and are determined to search out this tomb. Suddenly we see a minuscule green tin sign inscribed "Grave" and a wavering arrow pointing across bright green fields. A wide ditch of blackthorn and a padlocked gate bar our way. Over the ditch and fence we go only to find ourselves knee deep in a rich stew of mud, manure, and other vile stuff, (possibly E coli) it is unnavigable, plus, the cows do not seem friendly and I cannot see if they have udders. We return to the car without even a glimpse at this National treasure.

Eureka! The Beaghmore stones are a synch to visit, no bulls, well-signed, wide parking lot with informative panels telling the history of the circles. Definitely worth visiting and very mystical.

I guess one out of three isn’t bad and we have been told that our experiences searching out these sites are the norm.

Situated midway between Omagh and Cookstown on the A505 An Creaghan visitor center offers interpretive exhibitions, craft shop, conference facilities and licensed restaurant, coupled with a full program of cultural events.

Outdoors activities showcase the biodiversity trail and for young hikers a story book trail. A series of colorful story panels bring to life the story of the Creggan White Hare and follows a gentle trail through the countryside. Special needs children are encouraged to explore the plant and animal life through tactile programs; the storybook trail is handicapped accessible. The resident ducks on the pond are sure to captivate all ages.

The use of stone blends in with the surrounding area and all buildings are constructed from the warm gray stones found in abundance throughout Creggan. Inside a collection of agricultural artifacts adorn shelves and the Legend of the white hare is imprinted on its butter colored walls.

We enjoyed the friendly staff and chatting with locals, hot toddies in front of the sweet smelling peat fire, and imbibing local fare in the restaurant.

In the Interpretive center the cultural traditions of Creggan is showcased through photographs, and a display describing how bogs are formed and their importance as a natural habitat. Peat cutting exhibitions are also offered in season and an audiovisual interpretation of pre-historic monuments explains court tombs, stone circles, most dating from the stone age, all within a five-mile radius of Creggan. High quality local crafts and pottery is available in the craft shop at very reasonable cost.

One of many highlights of our stay occurred on our fifth evening. We joined a group for Irish country dancing lessons. John co-owner of the property suggested we would enjoy this weekly activity and that it was geared for beginners.

On the appointed night we peeked in the door, a very small fat man in a scarlet shirt and tight jeans was throwing a pear shaped woman around the floor, well really he was twirling but it looked like he was shoving her under the twirl. Two ladies old enough to remember pounds shillings and pence were instructing, they gave us a wave and shouted "Come away in" and so like lambs to the slaughter we did. Neil fortified himself with a Guinness before we joined about twenty dancers on the floor, hop, tap, point, and twirl and away we went. "Everyone on the floor for Kerry set" and that included us, one instructor grabbed me and the other took Neil in tow. The Kerry set is much like a square dance, with great flourishes of heel and toe. Partners challenge each other’s eyes and their energy charges the room until everyone is clapping and stamping his feet.

My sandal strap was loose and so I decided to try dancing in stocking feet, not smart because within seconds a big farmer promptly stood on my foot. We were introduced to neighbors, friends, and an eighty year old "special dancer", (I never discovered what special dancing was but she was delightful.) Gnarled old men, young office workers all jabbering and laughing uproariously. We must have danced ten sets non-stop when a trolley was wheeled in, huge pots of tea and mounds of scones were passed around, inhaled and then before we could swallow we were ordered up for the next set. I think the two instructors must have been Generals in a previous life.

The music was a raucous set of songs (taped) that I recognized but can’t name, needless to say the music and the "Generals" kept us motivated. At 11pm some folk left, but then the eighty year old stood up, walked to the middle of the floor and sang ‘The Fields Of Athenry" in a surprisingly clear crooning style. That set off around the room solo’s and all were required to perform, Neil sang "I’ll Take You Home Again Kathleen" I kept moving chairs in order to escape this ordeal but finally there was no where to hide and so and in honor of being in Ireland I sang my firm favorite "The Isle Of Innisfree."

Unfortunately we weren’t able to join the group the following weeks because of long day trips but those people were so friendly and open and typical of the kind of Irish welcome one can only imagine.