El Chaltén, the trekking capital of Argentina

An October 2001 trip to El Chalten by Robert Raymond Ingledew

Quote: When I decided to go to El Chaltén from El Calafate, I had no idea of the wonderful scenery I was going to enjoy or of the incredibly changing climate you have over there. You have to do everything walking: there are many trails, but only one road.

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El Chaltén, the trekking capital of Argentina

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Overview

Quote:

I was staying at El Calafate and did not visit the Upsala because this tour was far too expensive for my taste, and I had already visited the Perito Moreno Glacier, so I took a bus to El Chaltén. The first part of the trip seemed boring; the whole scenery was a real wilderness...But after a couple of hours the scenery was thrilling. When the bus stopped in front of the Viedma Glacier (far away, but you could see it clearly) and I took a glance at the Fitz Roy mount in another direction, I understood why the Fitz Roy is a challenge for mountain climbers. There was no snow on the top, because its rocky cliffs were nearly vertical, all the snow had gathered further down. The last hour before arriving at El Chaltén was really beautiful. El Chalten is the youngest village in Southern Argentina, founded some 25 years ago, and has today a population if 140 inhabitants. They also have rooms with private bathroom at some per night. Weather in El Chaltén changes suddenly. When I arrived at noon, the day was sunny, with a blue sky and you could even see the top of the Fitz Roy mountain. A few hours later an 80-mile wind ruined my camcorder filling it with sandstone. It still had a warranty, they repaired it at Sears, but it never was the same—2 years later, I threw it to the garbage can.

Quick Tips:

Although El Chalten has only 140 inhabitants, there are 14 hotels and hostels. But they are in high demand and lodging is expensive. I found a reasonable alternative at the Rancho Grande Hostel (Hostelling International), If you can, stay a few days; some days are very windy and trekking could be dangerous, but scenery is beautiful and you will want to enjoy Laguna Capri and some other destinations that have an incredible beauty. From Laguna Capri (a 2-hour walk in each direction) you will have some breathtaking views of the Fitz Roy Mountain.

There is only one road at El Chaltén, the road that comes from El Calafate and continues to Laguna del Desierto, so trekking is the only alternative if you want to enjoy the natural scenery. Protect your camcorder or photo camera with a suitable case. You never know when the weather may change. Take adequate waterproof clothes if you have them. It could be sunny in the morning and a sudden rain could ruin your expectations... Stay a few days.

Best Way To Get Around:

Bus to El Calafate, traffic van tour to Laguna del Desierto; Viedma Explorer (navigation of lake Viedma in front of the Viedma Glacier, that is 3 times larger than the Perito Moreno glacier). This tour can be bought at El Chaltén. Take at least a waterproof jacket. Where the tour stops, you have an hour and a half to walk up to a glacier. I did not go, because it was raining. I finally ended up walking down the Río de las Vueltas (The Winding River), because the forest offered me some protection against the rain.

The whole area is of an incredible beauty, and this is my advice:

1) Go out for a walk and enjoy the incredible scenery. 2) Go out for a walk and enjoy the incredible scenery. 3) Go out for a walk and enjoy the incredible scenery. You will not regret it.

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About the Writer

Robert Raymond Ingledew
Villa Carlos Paz (Cordoba), Argentina

"I travel at least two or three times every year. And if you add nearby destinations, every month..."
160 journals
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