One Norwegian Wedding and a Journal Part I

My journey to Stavanger, Norway's 4th largest city, began 14 years ago. How, you say, is that possible? To make a long story short, this crazy Canuck decided to leave her small Prairie town for the adventures of a high school exchange to Denmark. At the age of 18, she packed her bags and headed over to live with a Danish family for an entire year. She was placed with a family of 5: Gurli (mom), Arne (dad), and three, yes three boys - Anders (18), Thorsten (16) and Flemming (13).

Fast forward to 2006 and an invitation from Thorsten and his long-time Norwegian girlfriend, Elin, to attend their wedding in her home town of Stavanger. How could this Canadian say no? So, I packed my bags ready to explore a new country and to participate in a joyous wedding celebration.

Most visitors will not attend a wedding in Stavanger so they will have to make due with the plethora of activities and sites in the city and surrounding area. Stavanger has a long and proud history which is reflected in the sites, architecture and activities in the area. The area was an economic and military centre as early as the 9th century. Harald Fair Hair united Norway after a battle at Hafrsfjord. This historic event is marked by Sverd i Fjell, 3 massive replica swords struck into the rock on the edge of the fjord. Stavanger is also home to Tingholmen, an island where King Olav Tryggvason held his national assembly in 998.

Stavanger itself was formally founded in 1125 with the completion of the Romanesque Domkirke (Cathedral). Many religious institutions were established in the area including Utstein Kloster (Abbey) located north of Stavanger.

Stavanger was prone to cycles of boom and bust. The rich herring fisheries dragged the city out of recession and gave rise to a successful industry. The Norwegian Canning Museum traces the rise of this important industry. The neighbourhood of Gamle Stavanger (Old Stavanger) sprung up as a result of this prosperity. This collection of over 170 small old houses is Europe's largest collection of wooden buildings. The local economy received another boost in 1969 when oil was discovered in the North Sea and Stavanger was chosen to be the on-shore centre for the Norwegian oil industry. The Norwegian Museum is located in the heart of the downtown.

Quick Tips:

Begin your visit at the Stavanger Tourist Information office located in the heart of the city in the Norwegian Bank building at Domkirkeplassen 3. You cannot miss the location as it is situated directly across the square from Stavanger Domkirke (Cathedral). Yet somehow we missed it and ended up on a half-hour goose chase after discovering that the office had moved from its old location along the harbour. You can pick up information on the sights in Stavanger as well as a copy of a really good map of the downtown area. These maps are very detailed and show you the different areas of interest, for example Gamle Stavanger, as well as properties and sights of interest to tourists. Copies of the maps and brochures are available in many languages, including English.

The best time to visit Stavanger is from June to August. The tourist industry is geared toward these months. Attractions are open the rest of the year but under severely limited opening hours. For example, the properties of the Stavanger Museum are only open on Sundays outside of the summer season. Smaller tourist offices also close after peak season. I was disappointed to see the tourist information office for the Ryfylke Islands closed in early September.

The unique nature of the geography surrounding Stavanger provides one of the most unique and breathtaking experiences, a visit to the Lysefjord and Preikestolen (The Pulpit Rock). While you can hike up to the top of Preikestolen, most people prefer the more relaxing sightseeing cruise through the Lysefjord. There are a number of different cruise companies offering tours of the Lysefjord. Check at the Stavanger Tourism Office for more information.

Like most Scandinavians, Norwegians speak excellent English. You will have no difficulties if you do not understand Norwegian. There is also a large ex-patriate population from many different countries thanks to the oil industry and NATO facilities in the area.

Best Way To Get Around:

Stavanger is easily accessible by air, sea and land. It is serviced by an international airport (Sola) just a few kilometers out of town. The deceptively small airport is incredibly busy thanks to the oil industry. It is served by direct flights from England, Scotland and several cities in mainland Europe.

The sea continues to play an important role in the transportation industry with several ferry routes serving Stavanger. Stavanger is served by a number of local and international ferries transporting passengers from Newcastle, Amsterdam as well as Hanstholm and Hirtshals, Denmark.

Driving is fairly easy in Stavanger as roads and sites are well marked. Many traffic lights have been replaced by traffic circles. Remember to yield for all traffic in the traffic circle. I noticed that most drivers do not signal their intention to exit the traffic circle but instead use their left signal to indicate their intention to continue to drive around it. Main roads in Norway do not always have the right of way. Unless you are driving on a road with the signs on the left, you are supposed to yield for all traffic coming from the right.

Norway takes impaired driving seriously. The legal limit is .02 so even a single drink can push you over the limit. It is also illegal to use a cell phone when driving. Smoking is also prohibited in public buildings.

A car is not necessary for the exploration of Stavanger as most of the sites are located in the centre of the city. If, however, you plan to venture to the outskirts of town or to the islands a car is recommended. If you venture out of the city by land, be prepared to pay a toll to re-enter the city. The toll for a car is 13 NOK.

With only two days free from wedding related activities, we had to pack in a lot of sightseeing into very little time. Utstein Kloster (Abbey) was at the top of that list. I had heard about Norway's only well-preserved medieval monastery from my Danish host family. They know my interest in historic buildings so it was only natural this was our first stop.

The drive to Utstein Kloster is just as interesting as the Abbey itself. The area is dotted by islands joined by tunnels and bridges. The islands often rise 100s of metres above the sea providing a stunning and picturesque view of the fjord as you follow the highway. The landscape around the Abbey is bleak with few trees thanks to the constant winds. As we rounded one of these bleak rocky hills the Abbey came into view. The Abbey is situated at the edge of an island bordered by water and dramatically high hills teeming with sheep. The landscape evoked visions of Robin Hood and his band of merry men... except for the fact that this is not Sherwood Forest but southern Norway. I can see why this location was chosen for the quiet contemplation of those entering religious life - it is peaceful and isolated.

The Abbey is mentioned in 9th-century historical records as a garrison for King Harald Fairhair. Originally a royal farm, construction of the Augustinian monastery began around 1260. The Augustinians lived a pious life full of regular prayers and services. Physical work was banned but somehow that ban only applied to the 20-30 monks living at the monastery. Lay-brothers did all the work. The Abbey was wealthy supporting about 250 people year-round. After the Reformation, the monastery and its property were returned to the Crown and subsequently passed into private ownership. Today it is run as a museum and conference centre.

We headed to Utstein Kloster on a Monday and wouldn't you know it, the museum is closed on Mondays. Just our luck! There was, however, a function under way so we were able to enter the courtyard and wander the gardens. The buildings bear the typical white-washed exterior of the Reformation. On closer examination you can see stonework that appears to be out of place revealing renovations that took place over the years. My visit definitely wet my appetite for a return visit, one that will be much better planned than our impromptu visit and that will allow me to check out the museum.

Utstein Kloster is located 20km from Stavanger. Take E39 north, through the 5.8 km long tunnel passing 223m below sea level. Drive through the toll booth and over the bridge. Turn right at the sign for Mosterøy (a gas station and the Ryfylke Islands tourist office are located here). Turn left at the traffic circle and follow the road across the island to Klosterøy. The Abbey is at the end of the road. Free parking is available at the base of the Abbey.

A major renovation of the Cathedral was undertaken in the 1860s greatly altering the Cathedral's exterior. The beautiful stone walls were plastered and the Cathedral's distinctive medieval look disappeared. A major restoration was undertaken from 1939 - 1964 partly reversing the earlier ‘restoration'. Despite this, Stavanger Domkirke is the only Norwegian cathedral built of stone that has retained its original style.

The interior of the Cathedral hosts a number of treasures that illustrate the importance of the Cathedral throughout its history. One would think that the Romanesque and Gothic structure would clash with the Baroque and Rococo treasures; however, here they seem to belong together.

Upon entering the fortress-like entrance tower you will immediately notice the large intricately- carved epitaph plaque. Stavanger Cathedral is replete with these illustrations of piety by bishops and wealthy merchants alike.

The majority of the interior provides a fine example of a Romanesque church. The ceiling is fairly low and the windows are relatively small leading to a very dark and sombre atmosphere perfect for reflection. This dark atmosphere stands in stark contrast to the bright and airy altar area. Whether it was simply an accident of the Gothic style or a deliberate attempt to get one's attention your eye is immediately drawn to the altar area, its light-coloured walls, dark stone beams reaching to the heavens and the elaborate stained-glass windows. The exterior side of this portion of the cathedral is the only part of the exterior that is decorated. Considering this is essentially the back of the cathedral most visitors will miss the decorative Gothic facade and statues if they do not venture to the lake-side of the cathedral's exterior.

My favourite feature is the brightly decorated Baroque pulpit carved in 1658. In all my visits to churches and cathedrals in Scandinavia I have never seen such a bright and elaborately decorated pulpit. I could spend hours taking in the faces of the angels, the depictions of the saints and the scenes from the Bible. Okay, it might border on gaudy but it is certainly interesting. I can just imagine many a child (and maybe a few adults) who, throughout the centuries, stared at the pulpit in an effort to stave off boredom during all those sermons.

I could have explored Stavanger Domkirke for at least an hour but, unfortunately, my Danish host mother was on a mission to hit as many sites in downtown Stavanger as was humanly possible on my last day in Norway. Since we had a boat to catch, my 10-minute visit to the interior was certainly insufficient. This building is worthy of much more attention. Stavanger Domkirke is on my list of sites to visit on my return trip.

From September to May, Stavanger Domkirke is open Tuesday-Thursday and Saturday from 11am-4pm. From June to August, Stavanger Domkirke is open 7 days a week from 11am-7pm. The There is Sunday morning service at 11am. Admission is free.

When you first approach Stavanger Domkirke you likely will be underwhelmed by this cathedral. Located in the heart of central Stavanger, this 11th-century cathedral looks very plain indeed. The large grey stones, short stature and nearly unadorned exterior bring to mind a medieval fortress rather than a cathedral. Even the entrance looks like a fortress tower instead of a gateway to spiritual salvation. The austere exterior, however, belies the treasures inside and the important historical role of this cathedral.

Stavanger Domkirke was built at the end of the 11th century by Bishop Reinald from Winchester in order to, as legend has it, wed the king for a third time. King Sigurd the Crusader had divorced Queen Malmfrid and needed to find a place to marry Cicilia after the bishop in Bergen refused to perform the ceremony. The king donated money and land to the bishopric at Stavanger, the cathedral was built and the king married again. But this close relationship between king and bishop cost Bishop Reinald his head, so to speak. Reinald was hanged by King Harald Gille when the bishop refused to reveal where the king's treasures were hidden. So much for the benefits of royal patronage.

The cathedral was originally built in Anglo-Norman style and after 25 years of construction the cathedral was consecrated to the Holy Trinity in 1125. This is also the year that the city of Stavanger counts as its founding year. Saint Swithun, a 9th-century Winchester bishop, was chosen as the cathedral's patron saint; his arm is rumored to be among the original relics. Stavanger grew in religious importance with its power peaking in the late 13th and early 14th centuries. Stavanger was home to many churches, a cloister, a cathedral school and a hospital. Disaster visited the cathedral in 1272 when a fire destroyed part of the 12th-century Romanesque structure. The choir was rebuilt and enlarged in the Gothic style between 1272 and 1303.

Everything revolved around the church but this control was to be short-lived. The Black Death devastated Stavanger and caused great social upheaval leading to a decline in religious administration and control over the substantially smaller population. The Reformation in 1536 and the confiscation by the king of the church's goods and properties further weakened Stavanger. The city languished for a number of decades until the new Lutheran church decided to re-establish the church. Coupled with the new secular focus on the economy, the city began to grow becoming a regional administrative, tax and judicial centre. The oak timber export business drew immigrants to Stavanger.

The timber business was so successful that within a few decades the entire region had been deforested. The dramatic decrease in royal revenue led to the decision by King Christian V, in 1682, to move Stavanger's Episcopal seat to Kristiansand. The King even decreed the inhabitants to be forcibly removed to Kristiansand but they resisted. It was not until 1925 that Stavanger was restored to its former status as a bishopric.

The Ryfylke Islands, located north of Stavanger, are full of sites and attractions. There are so many places to visit you cannot possibly see all of the sites in 1 or 2 days. We wandered Mosterøy, Sokn, Bru and Åmøy by car simply following the small roadways across the islands. Here are just a few examples of places you can visit in and around the Ryfylke Islands.

To get to the Ryfylke Islands, take E39 north of Stavanger through the 5.8km long tunnel passing 223m under the sea, through the toll and across the bridge. Immediately after you cross the bridge you will notice a gas station and rest stop as well as the Ryfylke Islands Tourist Office. The Tourist Office is open from June 2 to August 27 with the following limited hours: Monday and Wednesday to Sat 12pm to 6pm; Sunday 11am to 5pm; closed Tuesdays. For more information call 51 72 49 78.

Vaula Viking House

On the way to Utstein Kloster you will pass by point of interest, the Vaula Viking House. Across the road from the information plaques lies one of Norway's best-preserved farm complexes from the Migration Period (A.D. 200-500). The complex consists of two farmsteads, both consisting of two farmhouses, a long house and a smaller building situated more or less at right angles. The smaller building may have been a workshop while the larger one served as the living quarters. Archaeologists have found many items here: jewelry, spinning wheels, flints, fishing equipment and whetstones. Next to the sea is a boathouse from the same period which was converted to a dwelling in the Viking Age.

While there is not much to see except for the sheep that now roam the land, there are information plaques with a map and information on Vaula Viking House provided in Norwegian, English, and German.





Fjøløy Fyr

Norway's history is intricately linked with the sea. There is no clearer illustration of this than the large number of lighthouses, or fyr, which dot the islands and mainland across Norway. There are a number of lighthouses that one can visit in the Stavanger area. One of those lighthouses is Fjøløy Fyr, situated on the island of Fjøløy only a couple of kilometres away from Utstein Kloster.





Fjøløy Fyr was built in 1849. Fjøløy is strategically placed between the channels leading to the Ryfylke Fjords and Stavanger. The kings and chieftans who rules these islands had full control of all traffic along the coast. Fjøløy provides an excellent lookout over ship movements in the area. The old lighthouse has been replaced by a modern marker lantern. The old keeper's cottage, however, remains intact.

While you cannot enter the modern marker lantern, you can take in what is really the greatest attraction at this site, nature. The sharp cliffs and rocks make it clear why so many lighthouses were necessary. The site is surrounded by bleak farmland, sheep and the odd house still inhabited by local residents. The life of the lighthouse keeper must have been a very lonely existence indeed. The wind is incredible coming straight from the North Sea. If you are visiting outside the summer months definitely bring a jacket or sweater.





To get to Fjøløy Fyr, drive north from Stavanger toward Utstein Kloster. Drive past the Utstein Kloster Hotel. Just before Utstein Kloster you will see a sign pointing the direction to Fjøløy. Turn right and drive to the end of the road. You will cross a number of cattle gates. There is parking at the end of the road.

Tungenes Fyr

Tungenes Fyr (Lighthouse) is actually located on the mainland north of Stavanger near Randaberg. Unlike Fjøløy Fyr, Tungenes has been restored to its 1930s appearance and serves as an art and cultural centre. It also houses a lighthouse museum as well as a fisheries and boat motor museum.





Tungenes Fyr was built in 1828. It overlooks a busy shipping lane. Much of the traffic is dedicated to the petroleum industry. The Nazis found this particular spot to be of strategic importance building artillery installations along the coastline. The ruins of these artilleries are a constant reminder of the occupation and victory over the invaders. These ruins can be seen in the photo below.





To get to Tungenes Fyr, take E39 north from Stavanger and follow the signs to road Fv480. Park your car in the parking lot along the water. Walk up the road to the lighthouse - cars are prohibited. You can walk back this same way or follow the shore back to the parking lot. Just beware the 'remnants' left behind by roaming sheep. The lighthouse is open 12-4 pm daily from July 1 to August 15 and on Sundays throughout the year. For more information call 51 41 41 00.

My journey to Stavanger began 14 years ago. How, you say, is that possible? To make a long story short, this crazy Canuck decided to leave her small Prairie town for the adventures of a high school exchange to Denmark. At the age of 18, she packed her bags and headed over to live with a Danish family for an entire year. She was placed with a family of 5: Gurli (mom), Arne (dad), and three, yes three boys - Anders (18), Thorsten (16) and Flemming (13). Considering I have only one younger sister, this was quite a change to say the least. I had always wanted a brother but as my mom said ‘Beware of what you wish for'! So, I ended up with 3 ‘big' little brothers as they are all well over 6 feet tall.

Fast forward to 2006 and an invitation from Thorsten and his long-time Norwegian girlfriend, Elin, to attend their wedding in her home town of Stavanger. How could I say no? So, I packed my bags ready to explore a new country and to participate in a joyous wedding celebration.

After a ridiculously long 26-hour day and a tour through Heathrow during the height of security restrictions, I arrived for my first visit to Norway. Thorsten picked me up at the airport and we went directly home. It was then that I met Elin for the first time. Elin and Thorsten were very gracious in welcoming me to their home and allowing me to stay with them during this hectic time. There was, however, one more family member I had yet to meet: 15-month old Fredrik, their little boy. Fredrik made his appearance (or should I say I made my appearance) when I got up after a couple hours of rest. What a little cutie he is! At this point my brain was suffering the effects of jetlag, dehydration thanks to the restrictions on liquids on board flights, and the shift to speaking Danish full-time. Mix in a little Norwegian and I was just primed for confusion. Luckily we were visited by Elin's friend Elisabeth and her Turkish husband Mert who met while studying in Australia. Yes! I could speak English and not feel guilty about it! We were too tired to think about making anything for supper so we ordered in pizza. Don't even ask how much it cost - it was ridiculous! After a few pieces of pizza and a couple glasses of red wine we turned in early as we knew things were going to get crazy the next day: the remainder of our family was arriving from Denmark.

On Thursday morning, Anders and his wife (Mette), along with their daughter Karoline, and Mette's brother Tim and sister Anne arrived from Copenhagen. And just as with Elin, this was the very first time I met Mette and my little niece Karoline! So much happened since I last visited Denmark in 2003! In the afternoon, Elin and I drove to the greenhouse to pick up the roses for her bouquet and the decorations. She had chosen beautiful medium-sized white roses with greenery. Not long after we returned, my host parents Arne and Gurli along with my little brother Flemming arrived. Their car was packed to the roof with not an inch to spare bringing all sorts of supplies including several cases of wine with them. This was just the last of the wine to arrive from Denmark as the family had been stocking up for quite a few months taking advantage of the lower alcohol taxes in Denmark. Of course we had to take advantage of all that wine sitting around. It was just begging us to sample it. And we had a good excuse - this was the first time since 1993 that I and the entire family had been together. As you can see from the photo of Mette, Elin and me we all enjoyed the wine. After a few glasses all 12 of us headed to bed under the same roof! Yes, you read that right. It was a very, very full and noisy house. By this time my brain was suffering the full effects of switching over to Danish. My brain was tired and I just wanted some peace and quiet, a precious commodity in this house.

My host mom got to work on the flower arrangements and bouquets on Friday. My host mother made arrangements for the church, the reception hall, the bridal car and, of course, the bridal bouquet. My very talented host mother made a beautiful bouquet of white roses, greenery, baby's breath and pearls. She also slipped in a little surprise placing 29 roses in the bouquet, one for each of Elin's 29 years. Following fine Danish tradition, my host mother also prepared greenery and flowers to hang around the door frame of Elin and Thorsten's front door. Such a wreath signals to all in the neighbourhood that this house is home to a great celebration! On a couple's 12 and ½ year anniversary, half of the door frame will be covered with such a wreath with the full wreath appearing again for their 25th anniversary. On each of these days, the couple's neighbours gather outside the front door in the morning to wish the couple a happy anniversary.

I had yet to buy a wedding gift so Elin, Flemming, Tim and I drove downtown to do a little shopping. I picked up a lovely wedding gift on their wish list and Elin picked up a few last minute items. Anders and Thorsten had set off to hunt down crab legs for an extra treat that evening. Later that afternoon, Elin, her parents, and my host parents busied themselves decorating at the reception hall. By this time my brain was functioning in the slow lane as it was attempting to pump out coherent Danish and I needed a nap. When I got up from my much needed break, Marthe and Holger, neighbours and good friends of my host parents had arrived. Marthe definitely remembered me - most families don't take in Canadian girls for a year so I was the local celebrity. I had only met her once so I was at a bit of a loss as to who she was before I saw her again. That evening, my host mother's sister Lissy and her husband Kjeld arrived. I had not seen them in 13 years and it was such a joy to see them again!

Other family members from both sides of the family had arrived by then requiring yet more alcohol. In Scandinavia it never stops! To go along with the ample supply of alcohol we had a buffet of smørrebrød, Danish open-faced sandwiches and those elusive crab legs my brothers hunted after that afternoon. By then my brain was refreshed and I was able to ramble on in Danish again. I then hit a big setback when I sat down beside Holger. See, Holger speaks Sønderjysk dialect. I don't. My host mother made sure of that forbidding all dialect in our house while I lived in Denmark. Needless to say, supper was a little uncomfortable. Once the guests cleared out of the house, you guessed it, more wine. I had a flashback to the first two weeks I lived with my host family - specially prepared evening snacks and some type of alcohol every night. I had never slept so well in my entire life! We ended the evening putting the final touches to the flower arrangements, ironing our dresses and shirts for the big day, and making a pile of things we needed the next day. Elin and Thorsten escaped the craziness staying over at a hotel the night before the big day.