So, What Else is in Tokyo Besides Disneyland?

Originally, we decided to visit Tokyo for the sole purpose of experiencing Tokyo Disney Sea. Guiltily, we decided that spending an entire week at a theme park, no matter how beautiful, would be a waste of a good opportunity to explore one of the most exciting cities in the world. So, with no expectations or preconceived notions, we set off to find out what Tokyo was really made of. Here’s what we found.

The people of Tokyo are quite friendly and helpful. The word we used to describe most of the people we met was gracious. Most people understand a little bit of English and are usually willing to help. We only encountered two disagreeable folks during our 10 day trip.

In Tokyo, not many traces of old Japan still exist but in a few tucked away corners, we found areas where it seemed as if time stood still. Usually, these areas were of religious significance. But in all honesty, to experience old Japan, one must travel out to Kyoto or other outlying areas.

One should not miss the Imperial Palace and its gardens, the Meiji Jingu (Shrine), or Tsukiji Fish Market (my husband’s favorite). We did not have time to visit Mount Fuji but we heard that the local effort to clean up the garbage around the walkways has done wonders.

Quick Tips:

When in Japan, do as the Japanese do. When the sun starts beating down, pop open a folding umbrella. Not only is an umbrella indispensable during sudden rain showers, it can provide much needed shade when the heat starts rising.

Practically everything is expensive in Tokyo. Keep in mind that Japan is an island and much of their food is imported. Fruit is especially expensive so plan on forgoing it during your trip if money is a factor. Instead, prepare yourself by bringing dried fruit, energy bars, or whatever else may be easy to carry. If you get tired of water, bring a Ziploc bag of powdered drink mix to dress up your drink.

While inside Tokyo, most signage is in both Japanese and English. When you venture outside the city limits, the English disappears so learn a few handy phrases and bring a pocket translator or dictionary. Cute things abound in Tokyo. Bring an extra duffle bag to throw in dirty laundry and pack your suitcase with souvenirs. Note that some stores will only take Japanese bank-issued credit cards. To prevent any issues, you can apply for a credit card from JCB (www.jcbusa.com) or bring cash. We did just fine with our American credit cards and never had an issue but then again, we never left the Tokyo environs.

Be mindful of how you dress. Tokyo is not as casual as a California beach city and I got some looks, running around in tank tops and shorts. Now I realize I should have covered up a bit better, opting for short sleeved shirts and capris. I noticed that not many women wear sunglasses but I won’t forego my shades. Protecting my eyes is tantamount.

The large department stores almost all had a big food area in their basements. After 5pm, the prepared food gets marked down, sometimes to 50% off. Take advantage of these price breaks and time your visits accordingly. If convenient, bring a packable cooler bag to cart your purchases back to the hotel.

Best Way To Get Around:

Do not rent a car in Tokyo. Not only will you never find parking, you will waste much of your precious time in traffic. Japan’s railway system ranks as one of the best we have ever ridden. On time, clean and convenient, the only time the train is not pleasant is during rush hour. If you think the movies where Japanese businesspeople jammed into a train car like sardines is an exaggeration, you’re in for a rude awakening. We avoided rush hour like the plague so we were fortunate never to have had to endure cramped quarters.

Tokyo’s main line, the Yamanote loop, runs in a circle around metropolitan Tokyo. Once you get on the Yamanote line, you can always reach Tokyo’s central station. From there, all of the other lines intersect so you are able to reach all parts of Tokyo by transferring.

Beware, the train stops running at certain times in the evening. If you do not prepare in advance, you may be stranded in a section of town where the only way back to the hotel is via taxi. Taxis are very expensive so if money matters, plan ahead.

Be prepared to walk in Tokyo. This is truly a pedestrian city. We walked so much that I developed heel spurs, which did not heal until months after our trip. Get shoe insoles to protect your feet. I would have given anything to sit down at times but Tokyo seems to lack park benches or other seating options. If convenient, bring a light, folding stool to whip out of your backpack when your feet start aching.

Summer heat in Tokyo can strip one of energy in no time. So when we stumbled upon the Nakashima tea house in the Hama Rikyu Gardens, we needed a rest and ventured into partake of a traditional Japanese tea.

We walked under a wooden archway and through a gravel courtyard where we reached the sliding doors of the facility. We obediently removed our shoes and strode in. Because we arrived early, we had the entire tea house to ourselves, along with the undivided attention of our two hostesses. The first, a girl perhaps in high school, led us through the wooden one-storey building to tatami mats by a wall of windows overlooking the garden lake.

Our second hostess, an older woman, brought us our tea. For $5, the hostess served us hot green tea and a small slice of green tea cake, which we ate with toothpicks. Green tea is slightly bitter but I didn’t mind the taste, nor the searing temperature. Somehow, despite the summer weather, the hot tea worked for me. I felt a wave of relaxation chase away any feeling of discomfort from the heat and humidity and gazed upon the tranquil view outside. The green tea cake did not appeal as much to me due to its dry texture. I am more accustomed to sweet, moist cake and this morsel, catering to the Asian palette of not-so-sweet and dry, left me hankering for Devil’s Food Cake. Still, I recommend the tea house for the experience and the atmosphere.

Before too long, we had to leave so that we could explore the rest of the gardens and still make it to the dock to catch the ferry to Asakusa. I chatted with our second hostess and thanked her for the treat. Ever gracious, she presented us with an origami ball, which we still have as a reminder of that special morning.

You can get tea and cake at any old place. You can sit in a Japanese building with tatami mats and sliding screen doors. But the women we met and their warm hospitality made this morning special. Memories like these are what make a vacation.

Tucked away down an alley in Asakusa lies Daikoku-ya Tempura, a famous tempura house which attracts several visitors. We arrived at approximately 11:45am after we visited the Senso-ji shrine.

Strangely enough, we did not see a menu with prices displayed in the restaurant’s entrance. In retrospect, I should have considered that a warning of sorts. Ignoring the anomaly, we strode inside and sat at a table. The menu, also devoid of prices, featured some pictures and a description in English. I ordered shrimp tempura, which arrived atop a bowl of rice.

The tempura, soaked in teriyaki sauce, could indeed appeal to a large appetite. The shrimp measured approximately six inches long. However, the meal arrived à la carte, without any accouterments whatsoever. The sauce saturating my tempura shrimp took up my sodium allowance for the day and left me parched.

But the biggest surprise arrived with the bill. At approximately US$18 per person, I felt as if I had been deceived. I now understood why the restaurant management did not display the prices at the entrance and on the menu. Still, had I been the savvy traveler I wished I was, I would have asked about the prices before ordering, preventing this feeling of dissatisfaction.

Just this week, my boss, who is Japanese, explained to me that tempura should cost a pretty penny and the price charged at Daikoku-ya fit the standard. Unfortunately, I grew accustomed to the US$10 tempura meals we find here in California. Daikoku-ya’s tempura did not seem to surpass stateside tempura so I felt I was really paying for the tourist experience. My overall recommendation is to skip this restaurant and find one that can not only satisfy the appetite but go easy on the wallet.

Oh my goodness! I completely forgot to let our good friend and traveling companion know that Beard Papa Cream Puffs are currently available here in Los Angeles. When he found out from another source, he called excitedly to let me know that we could obtain these delicious treats right here in our back yard. Sheepishly, I told him that I already knew and that we had some at work a few weeks ago. He was livid.

And rightfully so. How would you feel if your friend forgot to tell you that one of the most delectable morsels you have ever tasted was no longer separated from you by miles and miles of ocean? Our first encounter with Beard Papa occurred simply on the sidewalks of Shibuya. We left the train station in search of street food to sample in lieu of a big meal. Typically, I stay away from street food for fear of not-so-hygienic food preparation conditions but in Tokyo, where hygiene is king, I figured that I had less to fear.

Near the south exit close to the entrance of the Tokyu Department Store stood a Beard Papa stand. The vendor busily injected fresh cream filling into the hollow pastry shells to create fresh cream puffs. We each ordered one and proceeded to devour our "appetizers." I found that as I ate, the humidity and heat of the summer evening disappeared. The cream puffs were exactly the right cool temperature, the pastry light and flaky, and the cream filling not too sweet.

Only two people stood in the line ahead of us. We paid approximately US$1.30 for each morsel. My husband had to drag me away from the stand as I shouted, "Just one more!" Sadly, I filled up on other delicacies that evening which prevented me from returning to Beard Papa for that last indulgence.

If you think that I’m exaggerating and wonder how can I make such a big deal over a cream puff, try one yourself. Now that Beard Papa exists in Southern California, there is a strong possibility that you may find one close to you and that these treats are no longer relegated to Tokyo and its environs. And so I attempt to redeem myself. Even if I forgot to tell my good friend of Beard Papa’s existence outside of Japan, I’m telling you…and that should count for something.

After attempting to get up at 5am to arrive at the Tsukiji Fish Market by 6am (at which we had failed miserably), and after exploring the multiple stalls and sights of the market, my stomach began to grumble, especially since we had stepped into the world’s greatest place for sushi.

We had no idea where we were and whether the restaurant we chose was any good. Such is the life of an adventurous tourist. We happened to stumble upon a small but clean sushi restaurant by the name of Sushi Zanmai. It wasn’t until we returned home that we found out that Sushi Zanmai is one of the most popular restaurants in Tsukiji. Normally crowded, at 8am, the restaurant was pleasantly quiet with only one other diner.

Our sushi chef paid the utmost attention to us and prepared the freshest sushi we had ever tasted. I immediately noticed how the maguro tuna simply melted in my mouth because it could not have been more than an hour since the fish had been brought to the restaurant. A variety of 7 or 8 pieces of nigiri sushi plus a handroll priced at 1,450 yen could have sold for twice that amount back at home. My breakfast included yellow-tail, tuna, and a tuna handroll. I completed my meal with miso soup and hot green tea.

The restaurant is open 24 hours and should be a must for your itinerary. Try visiting during odd hours when the rest of the city is asleep. Sushi Zanmai can get very crowded due to its favorable prices and tiny capacity during the peak hours. Couple an early expedition through the fish market with an early breakfast. You won’t be disappointed.

Now that I have taken a Japanese class and can clumsily stumble through some Japanese menus, I will have to return to Sushi Zanmai to order a la carte and try the vast combinations of fish available in the wee hours of the morning.

"We have to get up at what hour?" In order to witness the truly marvelous and grotesque, one must arrive at the Tsukiji Fish Market by 6am to see eels writhing on the floor and vendors haggling over huge tuna. Still, we didn’t make it out to Tsukiji until about 7:30am or so. By that time, much of the action had passed but we still managed to gawk at a few spectacles.

We meandered around the open air market and peered in the various stalls selling seafood, both familiar and unfamiliar parts. One vendor had bags of cuttlefish (a savory snack for those of us who enjoy the chewy treat), another sold sashimi, raw fish meat. But the most interesting vendor did not pay any attention to us as he carved slabs of fresh tuna from a huge carcass. The tuna’s head alone was larger than my office desk. As the vendor worked diligently, he drew long puffs off of his dangling cigarette. Not the most sanitary conditions I’ve ever seen but I figured that after he cut the meat, he would wash it off and prepare it for sale.

My husband informed me that the fishing boats often travel as far as off the coast of California, outside US jurisdiction, and return to Tokyo with their catch. Restaurateurs gathered in the mornings to participate in auctions for the best fish. The fishermen would later export the leftovers to other countries. Open air market stalls and larger covered buildings comprise the fish market. Auctions occur inside the covered buildings.

We also found restaurant supplies and fake Japanese display food in Tsukiji. My husband, deprived from fruit and vegetables for over a week, zeroed in on a fruit vendor who sold apricots for US$5 a piece. As he reached for his wallet, I swatted my husband’s hands and reminded him that at home, we could walk out of the grocery store with two bags full of apricots for $5. He had to suck it up and deal with two more days of deprivation.

Get to Tsukiji early. Don’t worry about making reservations at a sushi restaurant, just pick one that tickles your fancy and try it. We wove through the alleys until we found a clean, small sushi restaurant. Sushi breakfast at 8am is perfectly acceptable and you shouldn’t knock it until you’ve tried it. Where else will you be able to find anything fresher?

In Tokyo, be prepared to walk. Nowhere in all of my life have I had to walk this much, and I grew up in Hong Kong of all places. In Hong Kong, you can plant your rear down someplace to take the weight off but not in Tokyo. My butt belonged in a seat and on nothing else. Sitting on ledges or other non-seat areas can be considered rude.

Note that there are any locations to sit while walking toward the Imperial Palace. What is a trip to Tokyo without a trip to the Imperial Palace? What most people do not realize is that the palace is obscured from view with the one exception of by the moat and bridge where we caught a glimpse of a corner of the palace. Most visitors enjoy the Imperial Gardens, which we did not have enough time to explore. Chalk one up for the visit next time list.

Our trek began in Tokyo’s central train station. As we followed the signs which led us toward the Imperial Palace, we found an elevator while still inside the train station. We were not in any hurry so we figured we would throw caution to the wind and try our luck. Out we popped onto the street level, pointed directly toward the Imperial Palace. My husband got a kick out of the elevator that pops up out of nowhere.

We walked about a mile to the Imperial Palace grounds. Thank goodness we brought our umbrella. While we did not have to seek shelter from rain, we did have to shield ourselves from the burning sun overhead. When in Rome, or in this case, Tokyo, do as the locals do. Visitors to the palace all carried parasols or umbrellas, and wisely so. We still do this back here in the US, despite the strange looks we get. Vanity kills, folks.

When we arrived at our spot, disappointment set in. The view did not appease our curiosity, nor was the half a mile walk to the spot entertaining. Crunching across gravel roads, we trudged to the palace moat and back. Only the two swans floating in the moat seemed comfortable, shaded from the heat.

My suggestion to potential visitors is to skip the trek to view the palace and go directly to the gardens, which I hear are tranquil and breathtaking.

As an Asian History student, it would have been shameful for me to have visited Tokyo and ignored the Meiji Shrine, or Meiji Jingu. We had decided to meet our friend at the shrine as he would be returning from a trip to a traditional Japanese inn.

As we exited the Harajuku train station, I found myself staring across the street at none other than SNOOPYTOWN, the mecca of my Snoopy quest. Faced with an agonizing decision (do I meet our friend or do I fulfill my dream of buying every Snoopy item ever made that I cannot get at home?), I reluctantly steered myself toward the Meiji Jingu. Duty before personal satisfaction.

As we walked what seemed like a mile to the center of the Meiji Shrine, again, I noticed the complete lack of park benches or places to give my aching feet a rest. However, my discomfort subsided as I allowed the tranquility of the shrine’s surroundings to calm my nerves.

We passed through a few sets of torii, the traditional gates which signify a religious site. The hustle and bustle of Harajuku on the other side of tall trees seemed to quiet as we continued toward the shrine.

As we neared the main building, we entered a courtyard where local worshipers could hang prayers on a prayer tree. Visitors could purchase a wooden block, write a prayer on it, and hang the prayer on the tree. We perused the various prayers in both Japanese and English.

Suddenly it dawned on me that our friend was nowhere to be found. Perhaps he missed the train? Despite our misfortune of losing our friend, we happened to be in the right place at the right time. A traditional Shinto wedding ceremony paraded by us and we watched the bride and groom with the Shinto priest. While I hear that these traditional weddings are fairly common and must be booked several months in advance, I found out that our friend, who really did miss the train, did not get the chance to witness a wedding when he finally made it to the shrine. So I count ourselves as lucky.

Since we never connected with our friend at the Meiji Jingu, we had time to return to Snoopytown and explore to my heart’s content. But that’s another story. Make sure that you do not miss the Meiji Jingu to witness an integral part of Japanese life. The Shinto religion plays a large part in Japanese culture. The tranquil settings differ greatly from the Buddhist temples in Asakusa and appealed more to me than the garish spectacles I saw there.

After an eventful morning at the Tsukiji Fish Market, we scouted out places to visit within walking distance. The Hama Rikyu Gardens nearby was the dock where we could catch a ferry to Asakusa. We had some time to kill before the ferry departed so we decided to explore the gardens as an afterthought. For ¥300 per person, we purchased tickets and entered the complex.

I am ever glad we did. The Hama Rikyu Gardens serves as a respite from the crowds, the noise and the frenetic pace of Tokyo life. It might have been because we visited at around 9am in the middle of the week but the gardens had very few visitors that morning, a benefit to us. While we did not find a traditional old Japanese neighborhood, the gardens preserved a piece of Japanese culture, representing a slower time where pristine gardens and revered traditions such as the tea ceremony took precedence.

We strolled the gardens and first found a shallow duck pond which turned out to be the hunting grounds of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Sadly, many a duck found its fate here and in attempt for atonement, the guilty hunters erected a stone memorial for their quarry.

As we wandered the gardens, we noticed that above the treetops peered Tokyo skyscrapers. Cranes towered overhead as they built even more looming edifices. "Don’t look up," I thought. The stark contrast between modernity and tranquility was too much for me to process.

We found the Nakashima tea house which seemed to float on a saltwater pond. After we crossed an arched bridge, we plodded along wooden walkways until we reached the tea house. For approximately US$5, one could have traditional Japanese tea in this serene setting.

After tea, we continued to explore the seemingly never-ending gardens. As we stumbled upon a vegetable garden, I realized that my leg sported the biggest mosquito bite I had received in years. Note to visitors, spray yourself with some form of mosquito repellent or suffer my fate. My vacation, up to that point, had been unencumbered from bug bites. After this point, I walked with a lurch because every few feet, I leaned over to scratch. Another note, the best bug bite cream in the world is Anthisan. Not found in the US, get someone to travel to Hong Kong for you as it only costs HK$20, or US$1.60. Of course, you can always order online.

Before long, the ferry arrived and we had to leave. "We need to come back here and explore some more," my husband commented as we boarded the boat, proving that some of the best vacation memories happen as a result of having to kill time.

"Please, please, please can we go to the electronics district?" My husband begged. I had no idea what he wanted to purchase and bring home but I love exploring so we hopped on the Yamanote train and disembarked at Akihabara station.

As we exited the station, we randomly picked a direction and headed down the streets. I attempted to ask for directions but the first woman I saw, who sprayed perfume samples on passers-by, gave me a dirty look when I asked her in Japanese if she understood English. No worries, we plodded on.

As we rounded a corner, we stopped suddenly and gasped. Rows and rows of shops met our gaze as we took in the sight of cell phones as far as our eyes could see. To say that Tokyo is cell phone crazy would seriously undermine the great attraction the Japanese have to electronic gadgets. We found stores that sold cell phone antennae that lit up when receiving a call, cell phone trinkets which resembled small baubles or key chains, even tiny rain coats for cell phones to protect the gadgets when it rained. I could not decided if I felt delight or terror when I found a Winnie The Pooh outfit for a cell phone.

"Let’s browse camera equipment," my husband suggested. We walked into a store with an enclosed stairway that resembled a hamster Habitrail tunnel. Immediately, a salesperson, fluent in English, stopped to help us. Sadly, the prices in all of the stores we visited eclipsed the prices back at home. The technology surpassed some of the gadgets back in the States, such as the latest televisions. However, sending a flat panel TV back home was impractical, at best. Camera equipment did not differ much from what we had. Other gadgets did not match in compatibility with our voltage, our DVD systems, and other restrictions. Overall, our trip to Akihabara served as a learning experience rather than a treasure hunt. Unless you have a specific item to purchase, and are looking for technology unavailable in your area, be prepared to not spend and window shop.

Disappointed, my husband suggested that we get back on the train and explore a different area of Tokyo. But as we strolled through the train station, I spotted something that would cheer us up. Ice cream! We capped off our unproductive visit with a tasty ice cream cone, which prepared us for more adventures to come.

Unless you can read or speak Japanese, you will find it difficult to browse the streets of Asakusa in a respectable amount of time. This plagued our trip after we left the Senso-ji temple. Not knowing which way to go, armed with a guidebook over 10 years old, made life difficult for us to casually window shop. The added time crunch of trying to meet a bullet train boarding time dampened our treasure hunting expedition.

But all was not lost. After meandering around the streets, we found Yonoya Kushiho, a comb shop (phone +81 (3) 3844-1755). The small store showcased beautiful wood combs and other accessories. Our friend found a wooden hair comb for his fiancée, which thoroughly impressed her. The glass cases also housed intricate boxwood souvenirs, handmade boxes, barrettes, and other gems. The shop’s owners have worked this craft for generations and proudly displayed their masterpieces. You can find a beautiful hair piece starting at approximately US$40.

We passed shops that featured traditional Japanese bags, instruments and furniture. A shop, which specialized in kimonos with beautiful fabrics, caught my eye. Unfortunately, most of these items would not fit in our luggage so if purchasing such treasures, consider shipping your finds back home.

In retrospect, I feel as if we missed out on much of the offerings of Asakusa due to our time constraints. However, in the future, we will reference www.asakusa-e.com/dentokoge/dentokoge_e.htm for more information on where to explore. Without a guide to help us read the signs (note signs in this area do not feature English subtitles), and without knowing how to navigate the streets, we did not explore nearly as much as I would have liked. On the brighter side, this just gives me another item to add to my list of things to do the next time we visit Tokyo.

In planning our tour of Tokyo, I tried to find ways to explore that you could not do every day. Since we could only use public transportation without the use of a rental car, I opted to look for creative ways to get around town.

Our friends who had spent a year in Tokyo, building Tokyo Disney Sea, suggested that we visit Asakusa, taking the boat which traversed the Sumidagawa River to the shrine. Asakusa houses the largest Buddhist shrine in metropolitan Tokyo.

As we boarded the boat from the Hama Rikyu Gardens, we paid approximately US$7 per person for the 40-minute ride to Asakusa. We found seats at the back of the boat which offered an open-air view of the river and surrounding skyscrapers.

Along the river, we spotted large fishing boats. From what we learned on our trip, the Japanese fishing boats will traverse the entire ocean, even reaching the California coast. The fishermen will bring their catches back to Tsukiji Fish Market, auction the best selections to local restaurants and stores, and sell the remaining fish to other countries.

My husband gazed at the sights along the water and spied two large doors, resembling huge garage doors. Since Tokyo sits alongside the Pacific Ocean, it is prone to typhoons. Boats will scramble behind the storm gates in order to seek shelter in inlets. These storm gates provide protection from gale force winds.

As I continued to peruse the guidebook given to me by our friends, my husband pointed out another interesting sight. Builders had attached two skyscrapers together by creating a bridge between them. My husband commented that if one was a residence while the other an office building, it would bring an entirely new meaning to working from home.

Several bridges span the Sumidagawa River, including the red Azuma Bridge, the blue Komagata Bridge, the 3-arched Umaya Bridge, the yellow Kuramae Bridge, the old and featured in many art prints Ryogoku Bridge, the angular Shinohashi Bridge, the dark suspension Kiyosu Bridge, the modern and covered Sumidagawa ohashi Bridge, the massive, curved Eitai Bridge, the artistic and one-spired Chuo-ohashi Bridge, the overpass-type Tsukuda-ohashi Bridge, and the grey Kachidoki Bridge. The Chuo-ohashi Bridge impressed us the most, with its single, white peak, from which several cables extended. Unfortunately, we did not travel under the Rainbow Bridge, which lies to the south of where we boarded.

Before long, the peaceful boat ride was over and we had arrived in Asakusa. As we walked up the gangplank, I found myself standing right back in the middle of the hubbub and frenetic pace of metropolitan Tokyo. Looking back at the boat, I relished the peace and slower pace of the river, enabling me to contemplate life in Tokyo. With that, instead of checking off this experience as something I completed, I added another mental note to myself to return and spend more time on the water.

I have been to Camp Snoopy in the Mall of America. I have been to Camp Snoopy in Knott’s Berry Farm. But Snoopytown in Harajuku holds a special place in my heart because… you can’t get this stuff in America!

We started with baby clothes, bibs, and children’s items. We do not yet have children but are expecting. Am I ever glad that I snatched up the most adorable Snoopy and Woodstock bibs because they are not available here at home.

Then we moved onto Snoopy stationery. Paper products sell like hotcakes in Japan. The compact nature of paper products works well in a society where space is at a premium. For me, paper products packed nicely in my suitcase.

The housewares section broke my heart. Knowing that transporting ceramics bore an inherent risk of breakage, I sadly passed up the Japanese style bowls, tea sets, and dinnerware, all emblazoned with adorable images of Peanuts.

Car accessories such as cell phone holders and rear view mirror adornments intrigued us as we discovered new ways to spend money on items that do nothing for practical purposes but will evoke a response like, "That is so cute!"

Clothes outfits for stuffed Snoopys reminded us that Charles Schulz had created a dynamic and entertaining character who could assume a variety of identities. Detective Snoopy, World War I Flying Ace, Doctor Snoopy, and Legal Beagle all had outfits available.

Suddenly I realized that my size as a huge foreigner in Japan worked against me. The most adorable Snoopy aloha print dress that I saw displayed could never fit me because of my giant girth as an American. The largest size available hovered around a size 8 (what the staff might call a large size). Had I attempted to try on the garment, I would have popped every seam in the tiny dress and ended up looking like a castaway.

Despite my failure to wear Japanese sizes and the sobering reminder that by losing half my size, I could succeed in dressing in Japanese Snoopy clothes, I found so many treasures at Snoopytown. The biggest surprise was when our good friend presented me with an adorable Snoopy wall clock, complete with images of chocolate chip cookies. We carted the clock all the way back to California and it hangs in our bedroom as a reminder of the best store in Tokyo for a crazed Snoopy fanatic like me.

Remind me, the next time I travel to Tokyo, I must bring an extra suitcase for the countless treasures that I will find while shopping. My good friend, Stephanie, suggested that I look for a contemporary department store called The Loft. To best describe this store, think of a place if Ikea crashed with Crate & Barrel.

The Loft occupies seven floors where one can purchase anything from postcards to furniture. However, The Loft offers a unique take on merchandise which appeals to the younger, hip crowd. Slick stationery goods like a pair of pocket scissors which can fit into a credit card slot in your wallet will keep you gasping, "How cool!" over and over again.

Japanese cooking utensils (arranged similarly to a US Crate & Barrel) grace the shelves in the housewares section. I found ingenious gadgets that the US had not yet seen, as well as traditional sake box cups and rice paddles.

We found Japanese curtains, or noren, which we could hang in a doorway to provide privacy. Colorful cloth with traditional patterns created drapes and wall hangings.

My quest to find Snoopy/Peanuts items allowed me to explore every corner of this store. I found an inflatable Snoopy neck pillow, perfect for traveling. While Sanrio products and Yugi-oh cards flood all stores, Snoopy items are tougher to find. However, my persistence paid off as I found a Snoopy foam rubber stamp featuring the beloved beagle in a yukata, a traditional Japanese robe.

Strangely enough, Jack Skellington merchandise, while popular as a part of Disney’s repertoire, takes on a new look in Tokyo. The Loft features the Nightmare Before Christmas hero in all sorts of unique products, not available in the USA. Jack Skellington tissue box would make a terrific gift for that Disney enthusiast who has everything.

I could not forget the distinct Loft theme song that blared on portable stereos throughout the store. While it might seem like a good idea to have a department store theme song, keep in mind that after a significant time browsing each floor, the song grates on nerves.

To say that The Loft is one of my favorite stores in Tokyo is to state the obvious. But allow this unique blend of innovation and practicality to influence your own judgment. Just make sure you allow for a lot of time to explore. Start from the top floor and work your way down. But a word of warning, mind how much space you have in your luggage.

When we arrived in Asakusa, we hopped off the water bus and began our trek to the Senso-ji temple, home of the most visited Buddhist shrine in Tokyo. I had also heard from a friend, that Nakamise-dori street plays host to several booths and shops lining the area. She brought an adorable handbag to work made to look like denim jeans with round bamboo handles that I wanted to find. Shamefully, my pilgrimage to Asakusa had more to do with finding a purse than finding enlightenment.

We arrived at a red gate, marking the entrance to the shrine area. Two statues flanked either side of the gateway. We passed through the crowds and started down the long street that led to the actual temple. The covered marketplace featured stall after stall, chocked full of souvenirs, Yugi-oh cards, Power Rangers and clothes for dogs. The temptation to purchase doggie booties for our terrier overwhelmed me but my husband intervened and pointed me back toward our original destination.

As we neared the temple, we found a smaller shrine to the right of the street. Bright teal flags fluttered in the wind as we found ourselves moving away from the hubbub of the street market. We could smell the incense from quite a few yards away. As we walked toward the main temple, we came to a larger, impressive gateway, marking the main courtyard. To the left of the main walkway, a nondescript building turned out to be a visitor center of sorts that sold essentials for worship, such as incense and paper money.

As we entered the main courtyard, we saw a group of uniformed students basking in the smoke from an incense burner. Continuing down the path, we came to a water well, where worshipers could dip a ladle into the well and drink the blessed water. One woman enthusiastically rinsed her mouth in the well. After witnessing that, my husband cautioned that unless we did not have any reservations regarding hygiene, we should avoid doing the same.

As we climbed the steps to the shrine, the dizzying size of the structure overwhelmed me. A golden Buddha sat in the center of the shrine. One must to cross over the threshold to enter the building. Note, if one is not accustomed to the smell of incense, you may want to keep your distance. The fragrance nearly knocked me over so I retreated a few steps to observe from afar.

After visiting the Senso-ji, we ventured into some side alleys to find a souvenir for a friend. I found the handbag shop but instead of finding a bargain, I realized that the denim purses cost much more than I wanted to spend so I sadly passed them by.

It is easy to bypass traditional Japanese culture in ultra-modern Tokyo. However, for a good dose of heritage and religious observation, Asakusa delivers in abundance.

Where can you find street performers, shrines and a zoo all in one place? We stumbled upon Ueno Park after our trip to Asakusa. Our good friend, Sheri, had suggested that we take a trip up to Ueno, located on the north side of the Yamanote Line, in northern Tokyo. She highly recommended that we see Shinobazu Pond, the lotus pond at Ueno Park.

Sadly, our timing did not coincide with lotus season but the park still provided a respite from the bustling Tokyo streets. While Hama Rikyu Gardens oozed tranquility, Ueno Park catered to families and a wider range of interests. Tokyo opened Ueno Park in 1873 as the city’s first public park space.

As we made our way toward Shinobazu Pond, we encountered a few street performers. The most interesting one made no sound, other than a stereo at his feet. Dressed entirely in black, this street performer hid his face under a black hood. His performance seemed to entrance those around us and rewarded him with much applause. His performance reminded me of modern dance blended with mime. We did not feel that it was anything spectacular, but then again, we had just completed a whirlwind tour of Tsukiji Fish Market, Hama Rikyu Gardens, Sumidagawa River and Asakusa, which is a tough act to follow.

We arrived at Shinobazu Pond and the Temple of Benten. The temple celebrated the goddess of Benten and sits in the center of the pond on an island. Green lotus leaves surrounded the island, covering almost all of the water in the pond. We could only imagine the stunning beauty of this area during the peak blooming season. Plant after plant floated lazily in the water.

Unfortunately, the Toshogu Shrine, honoring Tokugawa Ieyasu, was closed for renovations. When open, the shrine charges a small admission fee of approximately ¥200. I would have liked to have visited the shrine as Tokugawa Ieyasu plays a critical part in Japanese history as the head of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

At the farthest point in the park, the Ueno Zoo houses the country’s pandas on loan from China. While curious about the zoo, my husband and I chose not to visit as most of the animals live in cages. We feared that the sight of animals caged in small spaces would be too depressing as we are more accustomed to enclosures such as those at the San Diego Wild Animal Park and Disney’s Animal Kingdom. However, the Ueno Zoo serves as a popular family destination. It opened in 1882 and now features over 464 species. At the time we visited, admission cost approximately ¥600 for adults and ¥200 for children.

Despite all of the offerings of the park, the true headliners are the floral displays. During spring, the cherry blossoms will overwhelm even the most jaded visitor. Plan your trip accordingly. Budding photographers will relish the opportunity to photograph stunning landscapes and flowers.