Current Affairs

Tucked away in the bosom of Missouri, the Ozark National Scenic Riverways are draped along the Current and Jack's Fork rivers. When travelers need recommendations for passing through my neck of the woods, I never hesitate mentioning these hidden treasures. Especially, if they're prone towards outdoor recreation, historical significance, or have esteem for nature.

Brochures herald that "The Current River is the nation's number one float stream." Swaggering claims to fame are often suspect, but here's endorsement from an avid canoer -- it tops my list, too! As name suggests, the waters' current lazily carries floaters along a panoramic voyage like none other, where life sources are as diverse as the Ozark terrains. Opportunities to stop and explore await around every bend, including marvels of the river's lineage.

Unconstrained springs are scattered along the banks, providing 75% of the Current River's horsepower. Not only do they sustain water levels that make year-round floating possible, they also function as headliner enticements for visitors of all interests. The National Park Service has insured that adventurists won't miss a thing, whether traversing by roadway or water. However, aside from teeming wildlife, statistics confirm that with paddle in-hand is the preferred method for indulging the preserved habitat.

The means to an end can whisk extremists 144-miles south to Pocahontas, Arkansas with camp-as-you-float tours. Complaisance of the river won't alarm the agile or experienced. Capsizement risks are minuscule towards dumping supply loads, or for bundling-up in cooler weather to behold majestic transformations of the seasons.

The same temperate waters prove just as inviting to beginners, seniors, and families with children that throng to shorter segments. Beyond spectacular waterways, an overflow of recreational activities, historical sites and festivals compliment potential itineraries. Whether dropping-in for a day or spending entire vacations here, tracking this remote sanctuary is destined to fascinate.
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Enough years had slipped away that recent Current Affairs held amazements like a first-time visit. I was rehabituated, and have obviously been settling for second-best with backyard waterways, and the adulterated version of Middle of Nowhere, Missouri.

Tango isn't the only thing requiring two people. This opportunity provided chance to Reconnect with favorites on many levels. In the spirit of meeting like-minded travelers, reviews by José Kevo; photos by Idler.

Quick Tips:

Googled websites are numerous, but the National Parks Service offers the most comprehensive information, including natural and historical attractions. Here's other short-cuts for consideration:

Where To Go
The area is divided into 3 regions -- Upper and Lower Current, and Jack's Fork, which isn't as replenished from multiple springs and already had dry patches by mid-June. The pair of reviewed float segments are from the more popular Upper Current. Where you decide to float is key factor for determining a campground and canoe rental agency. They're all comparable in fees and services, so let river access convenience be your guide.

When To Go
Our weekday appearance was truly a private screening! At no point were other floaters encountered on the river, and campground was vacant until weekend warriors began arriving. Summer weekends fill-up quickly, advanced reservations are needed for canoes and campgrounds. Spring and fall, absolutely gorgeous in the Ozarks, are also said to be enjoyable without crowds.

Which Itch?
Poison Ivy was flourishing everywhere! If you don't know what it looks like, you're sure to learn what it feels like. Seriously, here's a Foiler for the Spoiler. Planning an extended stay should include a bottle of Calamine Lotion.

Local Enlightenment
For the Upper Current and Jack's Fork, Eminence is the countrified hub of activity with accommodations that don't involve camping. The town's driving tour lasts about 10-minutes, but don't miss the Dairy Shack on Main Street.


This locally-owned hot spot specializes in calories, whether hot off the grill or from an endless selection of ice cream concoctions dunked, drizzled, sprinkled, and devoured with toppings of choice. The place was packed as the perfect twilight special for winding-down a hot summer day.

The area was also gearing-up for one of the annual Cross Country Trail Rides which draws an unbelievable amount of national participants. If horsin' around is your thing, there's also a jackpot of stables, western stores, and tack shops along Highway 19, north of Eminence.

-- Van Buren is commerce and activity center of the Lower Current.

Redefining Spring Fever
Missouri's largest gusher, Big Spring, is located south of Van Buren. Fifteen area springs are listed on the NPS-issued map. The four reviewed are sure to impress, but I also highly recommend Welch Spring, inadvertently missed on this last visit.

Best Way To Get Around:

Getting here is readily out of the way from anywhere; remoteness part of the appeal. Most websites have detailed maps. Print-out the one which best serves purpose. Basic travel atlases don't list many lesser roads.

Interstate 44 is the nearest major thoroughfare, slicing across Missouri from the Oklahoma border towards St. Louis. Direct Routes involve taking either the Highway 72 exit in Rolla, or Highway 68 exit in Flat Springs. Both options converge in Salem, where Highway 19 heads south.

Scenic Routes can be picked-up anywhere off I-44 between Marshfield and St. Louis using two-lane roadways which surprisingly don't contribute much on travel times. Western sections meander through small towns and generational farmlands accented with rustic barns and windmills. The east is shrouded within the Mark Twain National Forest, where roads precariously weave through some of Missouri's most picturesque countryside.

Everything recommended can be accessed along either Highway 19 or Highway 106 which intersect in the town of Eminence. Even if there's no interest in potential listings, this stunning pocket is well worth any detour; a relaxing joyride to absorb the America's forgotten past.

-- Be on the look-out for wildlife nonchalantly loitering along roadways; especially at dawn and dusk.

Akers Ferry, along Highway K at the KK-intersection, costs as the only way to cross the upper Current. On either side, there's a buzzer to ring for signalling operator from nearby general store. Transport was quick, rather unimpressive, and can be avoided.

Embracing the "SHOW-ME" State
Service options are limited except for Mom and Pop stores scattered about. They sell fuel, supplies and a little of everything you'd never need. Be advised these places will likely be first dose of culture shock; the s l o w, painless kind where people are neighborly in a rather peculiar sort of way.

Preparing to pay at one such establishment, burly couple behind the counter were all chatty asking about enjoying ourselves, where we were staying. Our campground's name didn't initially ring any bells. Further questions were followed by confession they'd never actually made it over that way; 23-miles up the main highway!

Take that as a hint, and make sure to print-out a thorough map. Otherwise, stopping to ask for directions could turn out to be your most challenging adventure.

Whatever part of the river you choose to float should determine location of where you decide to stay, especially for campers. Pulltite Campground served our purpose with convenient access to the Upper Current. This is one of seven riverside facilities maintained by the National Park Services.

Pulltite has 55 individual campsites and three group settings which are limited to 45 persons per site. The campground is geared for tent campers, though trailers and motorhomes are welcome. There is no dump station. Campsites are spacious and come with picnic table and fire pit. The attached-grill had adjustable levels and was perfect for cooking over flames.

The campground's greatest asset is natural setting. Pinned between forest and the Current, shade engulfs most everything through the day. The woods are crawling with wildlife, which won't hesitate to raid camps at night. Keep food supplies in your vehicle and dispose of garbage each evening. Expect nature to be your alarm clock; especially behemoth woodpeckers with jack-hammer sounds echoing through the valley.

A large new restroom is on the far end, across from group campsites. Bathrooms are handicap accessible, but had no signs indicating where to bathe. Four individual shower rooms are hidden on blind-side of the building. Small toilet facilities are also on opposite end of the campground as part of the entrance and picnic area.

Canoeing into/out of the campground is possible with Current River Canoe Rental. Their office doubles as an information center and general store selling firewood, ice, and basic foods, supplies and equipment. They can answer questions about the campground but aren't responsible for operations.

-- Pulltite Campground is located 4-miles off Highway 19, where Route EE terminates at the river. Reservations are recommended online or by calling 877-444-6667.

-- Upon arrival, there's an honor system check-in station where guests deposit fees in a lock-box and retain stub to display on their campsite post. There's also a payphone here; important to note because cellphone transmission doesn't permeate the valley. 753-323-4236 is the local number for assistance.

-- The National Park System maintains a 1.5-mile nature trail which begins across from group campsite #3. They also have Park Ranger presentations at 8:30pm on Fridays/Saturdays during the summer at the campground amphitheater.

-- Web searches turn-up an abundance of privately-owned campgrounds ranging in prices, amenities and additional services offered.

Our float between Akers Ferry and Pulltite campground was a perfect introduction to canoeing on the Upper Current. The course extends approximately 10-miles, and can be completed anywhere between 3 to 6 hours. Depending upon experience determines whether this segment would be considered moderate or easy.

The river is mostly narrow and shallow through this section which increases speed of the current. Minimal steering was required to keep from getting swept under low-lying limbs, and for navigating sharp bends. Otherwise, drifting with little directional effort is quite manageable.

Floaters won't be disappointed by how this portion lives up to billing of Scenic Riverway. The Missouri Ozarks absolutely shimmered against a clear-blue sky. Intermittent breaks in the densely timbered banks give way to sheer bluffs. The adventurous will find clearings at the bases for docking to explore along beaten trails.

The greatest natural highlight is Cave Spring, which marks half-way point of the journey. The mouth is large enough to paddle into the darkened opening. Small stalactites adorn the dripping ceiling, but most unsettling was the interior's contained pool of untold depths. The area is just large enough to make one think they can turn around. You can't while fighting the spring's current, so plan on floating out backwards which might be even trickier with crowds.

For what it's worth, the float begins at Akers Ferry. Because this mode of transport is so antiquated, it's listed as one of the area's historic attractions but isn't all that impressive. If planning to drive out of the way just to see it, also include stops at historic Welch Hospital and Spring, slightly north on Highway K.

-- Current River Canoe Rental picked us up at the campsite for shuttle to Akers Ferry. Without even trying, we made the float back to Pulltite Campground in a little over 4-hours, with only one extended stop.

-- The biggest unplanned bonus was the weekday, 2:00pm departure. We were the only canoe on the river, and the segment was almost entirely shaded. Easing towards dusk, riverbanks were active with wildlife.

-- Considering contour of the terrain and gentleness of the river, this particular float would be the ultimate excursion when hills are awakening in the newness of spring, or ablaze with vibrance of fall. Winter's snow-covered landscape, against a steely-gray sky, could be just as alluring, bundled-up with a thermos of hot chocolate.

Listed as the area's most popular canoe trip, this 9-mile stretch is recommended for beginners and the less-inclined of all ages. The river follows more of a direct course. Overall, water conditions are wider and deeper which creates a slower current. Expect to do more mobility paddling than with the previous stretch. Depending upon effort, this float takes between 3 to 6 hours.

The inexperienced will find obstacles. Rootwads are clusters of trees washed-away during flooding. When these obstruct channels, the current tends to pull towards the exposed limbs. Nothing will entrap and sink a canoe quicker. Otherwise, it should be smooth sailing!

The small fountainhead for Pulltite Spring is a short walk through the woods, just right of the departure point. A sign marks the trail if looking to explore. We bypassed, but were immediately captivated where waters trickle from bluffs ahead along the right.

A small creature was scurrying about, and stood on hind-legs to acknowledge our presence. We watched in frozen silence as the river whisked us along; cameras safely tucked-away. It was never determined whether this was a river otter or mink; both indigenous to the habitat. Paddling back for a second look, closer inspection uncovered a colony living in these rocks, so be on the look-out!

Deer and smaller mammals had retreated from the mid-morning sun, but an abundance of birds and waterfowl remained. Often, the canoe would glide in proximity to wildlife before we even realized.

This portion of river wasn't nearly as stunning or exciting as Akers to Pulltite, but still worth the experience. Close encounters with nature and the tranquil environment were definitely highlights.

-- We effortlessly made this float in a little over 4-hours with only one extended stop. Departing around 9am on a weekday, there weren't any other canoes on the river, which undoubtedly increased chances for spotting wildlife.

-- Precautionary measures are always necessary for supplies and cameras, but tumping-over in these waters is highly unlikely for experienced floaters.

-- This segment did have many gravel bars for stopping. These are also used for camping by long-haul floaters.

-- The float ends just before crossing under the Highway 19 bridge. Current River Canoe Rental picks-up patrons at the hilltop office for shuttle back to Pulltite. Depending on wait, it's possible to squeeze-in a quick look at Round Spring.

Centrally located, Round Spring attracts the largest number of visitors thanks to accessibility. It's rather average compared to the region's larger springs, but still a convenient opportunity that shouldn't be missed.

Tucked-away within a deep pocket of forest, what distinguishes Round Spring is its cavernous formation inside a large sinkhole. Water seeps through a small crevice, draining into Spring Valley Creek before feeding the nearby Current River.

An overhead trail loops the Spring for peering down into the serene waters which transform in hues based on sun's positioning. There are observation decks but vegetation growth had limited viewing potential. Best glimpses came from random clearings along other sections, so be adventurous and scout around.

Once on the premises, the Round Spring experience can be accomplished in under 10-minutes. Marked trails converge from several starting points for making the easy trek, by three means of arrival:

By Car
Highway 19 bisects the Round Spring composite which also includes a NPS-campground and Cave of the same name. Road signs clearly point the way from either direction, and the Spring is north of the parking area.

By River
Flowing south, the Round Spring campground facility sprawls along the right bank once passing under the bridge. After rounding the bend, a sign appears where floaters can dock canoes, and the Spring is slightly uphill.

By Walking
Many Upper Current float segments conclude by pulling-out at Carr's Grocery & Canoe Rental, just before passing under the bridge. The clerk apologized that all transfer vehicles were dispatched, and our wait may be upwards of 30-minutes. She suggested a quick peek at Round Spring.

Lured by spontaneity, we headed across Highway 19 to a separate pedestrian bridge with breeze-whipped views over the Current. Once path enters Round Spring Campground, the most direct route involves staying parallel to the highway. Head up the hill along a slightly visible path crossing lawns. It leads to the trees and back entry to Round Spring.

Gracing travel brochures for as long as I can remember, historic Alley Spring and Mill is one of Missouri's most photographed treasures. Archaeologist proof has determined this area was attracting visitors 10,000 years ago. Today's significance stems from the mid-1800s community which settled in the river valley.

The walking tour begins at a cluster of information and photo displays. Split-rail fences hem a central lawn which contains the restored school and blacksmith shop, playing second fiddle to the main attractions.

Crossing over a small bridge, the stately mill is concealed by shade trees but there's no mistaking presence. Gentle roars stirred the breeze from Alley Spring, which gushes more than 81-million gallons of water daily. Natural power was first harnessed for grinding grain in 1868. The present structure was completed in 1894.
The mill is no longer used for production, but is still in working order.

Demonstrations are given at 10am and 2pm during summer. Otherwise, visitors can inspect machinery throughout the second floor museum, which also includes historic artifacts from the region. The Missouri Department of Conservation operates an impressive gift shop on the first floor. But for all that waits in the darkened, stuffy interior, the natural surroundings are guaranteed to imprint the best memories.

A back porch looks directly into the turbine pit where waters were channeled for powering the mill. Colorful perspectives can be gained from different vantage points, but no one should miss walking around Alley Spring.

There are two trail options. A 1.8-mile uphill trek circles the upper realm with overviews of the spring and mill. An easier route loops around the spring at ground-level. Close-up encounters with the vivid waters and life sources they nurture were highlights of the visit.

-- The Alley Mill and Spring is located on Highway 106, 3-miles west of Eminence. It's open daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm during summer, and on weekends in spring and fall. The complex also includes a NPS-Campground and picnic areas.

--In addition to mill exhibits, other programs enjoyable for all ages include the old schoolhouse, which has class in session with math and spelling bees, and century-old recess games at 10:45am and 2:45pm. How settlers cultivated crops is discussed in the scarecrow corn patch at 1pm, weather permitting.

Of the three larger springs visited, Blue Spring was my favorite thanks to an exquisite combination of natural highlights. It ranks as Missouri's 8th largest spring, but tops any list for resplendence. Colorful perspectives are projected from the basin's 310-foot depth. Grandeur was magnified on our late afternoon appearance with sunlight piercing through the trees.

As another lifeline of the Current River, Blue Spring's daily output is 87-million gallons. Waters surge from the secluded, inland location along a crystal clear stream. Moss-covered rocks and vegetation sparkle underwater in a kaleidoscopic of green, hemmed by dense forest accented with wildflowers. Tranquility is perfected by the rushing waters and random chirps. A refreshing scent of purity permeated each breath as the finishing touch.

A short trail scales the bluff, but platform vistas were severely overgrown. Even with pruning, there's likely nothing to surpass what's found below. Indulgent viewing decks, a benchless terrace, or any number of settings beg visitors to stop and linger in magic of the moment. Those which can appreciate the finer qualities of nature will find this place irresistible!

-- The Blue Spring turn-off is along Highway 106, 16-miles east of Eminence. ** Don't confuse this with another Blue Spring listed on maps, off Highway 60 southwest of here.

-- Another highlight of Blue Spring is the 3-mile roadway which connects the parking area to the highway. The backwoods drive suggests adventure, but the canopied rolling hills quickly tame conceptions. The deep-rooted encounters with Mother Nature are a distinct beginning and ending for what waits in between.

-- The entry area has picnic tables, restrooms, water fountain, and information stations. The .04-mile trail to Blue Spring is easy and clearly marked, but beware of poison ivy growing everywhere.

-- The highly-touted Powder Mill, located west of Blue Spring, is simply a recreational and camping area along the Current. There aren't any "must see's", but the site is a starting/ending point for hikers of the Ozark Trail. The Powder Mill turn-off is clearly marked along Highway 106, or can be an enjoyable riverside walk from Blue Spring.

They say that "idle hands are the devil's workshop". So what better way to foil temptation than by picking up a canoe paddle, and go idling down the river with IGO's Idler? When Idler mentioned she was heading my way, opportunity knocked to enjoy—camping and canoeing. Basically, I made a few recommendations, and Idler the avid travel planner took care of the rest.

Avid travel planner, eh? I like that. Very diplomatic of you, Kevo. What you mean is that I’m anal-retentive about planning every little last detail.

One of IGO's cyber highlights has been meeting like-minded travelers. After several years acquaintance through journals, emails, and paths almost crossing, we'd finally met in NYC over Memorial Day weekend, '05. Here we were a year later planning to meet in quite a different setting.

Yeah, you got that right. Cue the theme music from "Deliverance" and the Jeff Foxworthy jokes. "You know you’re a redneck when… you met your wife at a family reunion."

The fact that we were going to meet in the back of beyond in Missouri rather set the stage. What transpired over the next few days led to the sort of one-of-a- kind escapade that only a pair of chronic travelers could concoct.

Yeah, and we’re going to tell you all the gory details, right, Kevo?

Arriving at the campsite, Idler began setting up her campsite with the efficiency we've so often read about. From a small duffel bag came tent, self-inflating mattress, gas cooking apparatus with utensils; basically all the comforts of home.

You didn’t mention the flashlight. Good thing I had one.

My excessive camping gear—(but NO flashlight!)—was strewn everywhere, but I soon discovered I'd brought the wrong tent poles and no stakes. Resigned, I said I’d sleep in one of the chaise loungers. Idler didn't say anything, and didn't have to. I'd already picked-up on the remarkable difference when she travels solo compared to having husband and son in tow. And now, me.

I have to say you looked perfectly miserable sleeping in that lounge chair, Kevo.—(what do you think the Mama Juana was for?)—Luckily it didn’t rain.

Too often women sacrifice vacation leisure while trying to placate family. However, chivalry is far from dead in my campsite and canoe. We may have entered this joint venture as mutual guests and hosts, but I wanted Idler to simply show-up, enjoy herself, and let me take care of the rest.

Awww… Isn’t that sweet? And this coming from a man who forgets his tent poles and flashlight. I’m touched. Truly I am.

Part of this involved collecting a large pile of wood before she arrived, which seemed to satisfy familiar stereotypes—man's obsession with building huge fires, while woman's needs are simpler—just getting something to eat. Perhaps woman has choked on one too many man-cooked, over-charred hot dogs and marshmallows. Lucky for Idler, these items weren't on the planned menu. I got my fire, she got her meals, and no one choked on anything.

It was all quite tasty, Kevo. Not a single thing charred. I still can’t believe you volunteered to do all the cooking.

Preparing to embark on our first drift segment, there was momentary hesitation with both of us still on our best company behavior. With two experienced oars people, who was going to command the driver's seat? Much to my relief, I eagerly accepted the nod with the promise to keep us both dry. Not that Idler would have turned madder than a wet hen, but my credibility was in jeopardy.

Me, mad? Perish the thought. That ‘honor’ of taking command meant you did most of the paddling, while I sat in the bow and sunbathed.

The river immediately whisked us around the first of many bends, and the soothing presence of nature liquefied conversation. The chance to recap our lives' mosaics, while filling in gaps, had greater depths than the waters we navigated, quite proficiently I might add. The greatest threat of capsizing came from relentless laughter; the side-splitting, rupture-the-swollen-surgery-incision-kind which more than rocked the boat.

No, the greatest threat of capsizing came whenever you clambered around in the canoe getting another beer from the cooler.

The only "crash course" encountered had nothing to do with risk. This was Idler; IGO's version of ask Jeeves. To read her musings is one thing. To further pick her brain in-person, quite another. The woman's breadth of knowledge has never ceased to amaze me, and the on-going commentary identifying birds, plants, insects, and elements of nature was astounding.

Really, Kevo, you make me sound like Roger Tory Petersen reincarnated. And those definitely were otters that we saw along the riverbank, by the way. I’ve confirmed it.

Paddling with the big city college English and Composition professor, class was in session by default. Idler never whipped out a red pen, but I did cringe when conversation veered towards grammar. She'd already picked up that us Missourians speak using the participle before the direct objective or some form of ill-bred communication. Thankfully, she doesn't edit my journals.

Well, I’m editing THIS one. You mean "past tense instead of past participle in compound tenses." And it’s charming, really, in a 19th-century way. When dialectologists get wind of this speech relic, they’ll be beating a path to your door, tape recorders in hand.

I kept forgetting that Idler had rural roots like myself, which helped explain her childhood obsession with pet turtles. Not only were stops made to remove turtles from roadways, but quite the endeavor was made in swift waters to rescue a large box turtle swept up in the current. Thankfully, CPR wasn't required, though I've no doubt Idler’s technique would've been proficient.

Obsessed? Who says I’m obsessed? Can’t a person rescue a few hapless turtles without being called obsessed? I mean, that one turtle did look a lot like one of the turtles I had growing up, I’ll admit. I’m sure glad we got to him before CPR was necessary. But I wouldn’t call that obsessed. No, definitely not obsessed. Not me.

Her appearance in my neck of the woods was thanks to yet another off-beat interest, ragtime music and a large festival she'd just attended in Columbia, Missouri. Her journal on a festival in Budapest had already been my introduction to ragtime, spanning well beyond "The Entertainer" with genres I was sure to enjoy.

Oh, god, I hate "The Entertainer." See, that’s what most people think ragtime is—pokey, antiquated-sounding, tame stuff. No! Ragtime was the rock music of its day! The music of rebellion!

Sorry… forgot you’d heard that lecture already.

When not on the river or at camp, we were tooling around in a sporty yellow rental car with a fresh stack of ragtime cd's. She gave me a running musical commentary, complete with supporting facts and tidbits. Music has a way of conjuring a picture, but these selections perfectly complimented the rolling countryside of Missouri beyond the windows, and of course, the company.

Know what, Kevo? Ever since this trip, I can’t listen to Willie "The Lion" Smith’s "Echoes of Spring" without picturing the Missouri countryside.

Yeh, me too because before leaving, Idler gave me a couple of downloaded ragtime cd's she'd made just for the occasion. Beyond thoughtfulness, she knows that I relive my travel memories through music.

Hey, whaddaya say we do this again sometime? I’ve got a whole bunch of Dr. John boogie-woogie piano music you’re gonna love. Just promise me you’ll bring tent poles.

And a flashlight.