Annapolis: A Colonial Jewel Box

Some time in the 1950’s, a number of influential citizens of Annapolis decided that their historic capital city shouldn’t fall victim to developers. As a consequence, Historic Annapolis, with its tree-lined brick streets and human dimensions, was preserved for the delight of us all. It is, perhaps, the most attractive state capital in the union. The city core is compact and very walkable.

My only regret is that we had so little time in Annapolis. The city merits an exploration of a couple of days, for there is much to see. We were able to visit the William Paca House (1765) and its garden as well as the Maryland State House (1779), and both deserve your attention, but we had to pass on the Hammond-Harwood House (1774) and the U.S. Naval Academy. These four major attractions could be covered in a single, very rushed day… they are all very close together.

For the family that wants something different, there are a variety of cruises available at the city dock which can be found at the end of Main Street. Cruises can take you well out into the bay for the day or just around the harbour in 40 minutes. Land tours can be arranged at the Visitor Center at 26 West Street (parking is available) or from the History Quest building which faces the Market Space at the foot of Main.

Quick Tips:

Annapolis would be a madhouse in the summer… the harbour is full of yachts and people on vacation swarm this attractive, small city. On a sunny September weekend, however, you’ll have peace, quiet and parking. (Unless Navy is playing football at home, in which case it gets a little crazy.) Many of the accommodation choices are not in Historic Annapolis, but a trolley circles the city and its hotels, giving visitors a relaxed view and the ability to hop off.

If you stay in the historic area, be prepared to pay for the privilege. Our observation was that it really didn’t matter. Routes into the historic city from the hotels, either West Street or Forest Drive, make it easy to access. Your accommodation should be able to provide you with a good (and free) tourist map.

Best Way To Get Around:

I have suggested the trolley and the tours that are available, but if you wish to drive into the city you will find a fair amount of street parking (generally with a time limit) and a couple of parking garages. There is a parking garage on West Street, just before the historic area and another further on… take Duke of Gloucester Street off Church Circle. The latter’s location is in the heart of the historic district.

Everything I like about a motel; everything I hate about a motel. I think that I must be seriously conflicted! I am… and part of it was through the reservation process. I made my reservations through my favourite website a month and a half before I arrived, asking for a king bed/non-smoking room. This was the first time that I’ve encountered a problem; I was told that I could have king bed smoking or the two double beds non-smoking to which I was assigned. I settled for the latter. I was given, however, the choice of first or second floor and I chose first rather than haul the luggage up the stairs. (This motel features two floors, exterior corridors and no elevators.) As it turned out, every footstep upstairs was transmitted to the room below, and the people upstairs were up all night pacing about... I fear to think what they were doing.

So what is the score so far… fumbled reservation, all-night noise and exterior corridors. Hmmm.

On the other hand, the room was clean and well-maintained. It featured a mini-fridge, microwave, TV , Internet access and an iron and ironing board. A complementary breakfast was available in the morning… essentially a continental breakfast but it included cereals and cold boiled eggs.

The location of the motel is in just off Riva Road in an area inhabited by office buildings and other hotels. Nearby is the Festival at Riva, a shopping area, and historic Annapolis is easily accessible via Riva and West Street. The area also contains a great many restaurants, so it’s ideal for the traveler who doesn’t want to venture into town. Going into town, on the other hand, isn’t difficult as the tourist trolley stops at the entrance of the motel.

If I were ever to come back to this particular motel, I would make my reservation directly with the establishment and make it crystal clear what I wanted… and part of that would be a second floor room. (To find the motel: Take exit 22 from I-97 South. At the bottom of the ramp, turn left and left again at the next light into Hearn Road.)

Don’t let the strip-mall facade in the Forest Plaza (On Forest just off Riva Road) fool you; had AAA not given it 3 diamonds, we would have passed it by for one of the many chain representatives in the area… Chili’s, Ruby Tuesday’s and TGI Friday’s, to name a few, none of which could compare to Jalopeno’s.

I advise reservations for one does not want to be offered the table in the bar area at the entrance; the restaurant is extremely busy, and as a consequence, somewhat noisy, but you’ll enjoy the décor – all a bit faux, but very pleasant – arches, columns, murals, soft colours and a fireplace separating the two eating areas. You’ll also enjoy the friendly, efficient service and the number of customers ordering in Spanish indicates that this is no Tex-Mex chain.

The menu is extensive with over 30 tapas selections, some soups and a couple of salads. It would be possible (and fun) to eat well by ordering only from the tapas menu, but the other side of the menu, featuring over 20 entrees as well as fajitas and enchiladas, demands attention. The entrees feature chicken, pork and lamb, but lean most heavily toward seafood.

After our shared chile con queso (I know, not really very adventurous), my wife chose cazuela de camarones y vieras, shrimp and sea scallops in a lobster champagne cream sauce. As usual, I went for the entrecote… a New York cut with jumbo shrimp and a wonderful cream sauce. With drinks, it came to an extremely reasonable $67.00 plus tip. To put it in a nutshell, it all made for an extremely pleasant dining experience. Jalopeno’s is really worth your consideration.

Reminiscent of a Georgian-style English country villa, the Paca house was begun in 1763. William Paca had been educated in Philadelphia and trained as a lawyer in Annapolis. His marriage to the wealthy Mary Chew, at age 23, allowed him the money to build an imposing brick house in five parts… a central block flanked by one-story passages leading to a pair of two-story wings.

Paca, who would eventually become one of Maryland’s signers of the Declaration of Independence, a state delegate to the first two Continental Congresses, a senator, and a judge, would hold on to the house only until 1780. After that, it would pass through many hands. The most remarkable change to the house took place in 1901 when a developer bought the property and attached a 200 room hotel directly to it. In 1965, a potential buyer proposed to raze the entire structure, including the original house, and put an office building on the site. Fortunately, the Historic Annapolis foundation took it over, removed the 1901 addition, restored the garden where it had been built and opened the restored house in 1973.

Our exploration of Paca house is by guided tour (45 minutes) and takes us through the two floors of the central block. Our first room is the study, or gentleman’s room. As with most of the primary rooms in the house, it is painted with enough Prussian Blue to demonstrate the owner’s wealth and features heavy moldings. Our journey takes us through the kitchen in the east wing and a large formal dining room. Of note is that this house is decorated to colonial standards… there are some fine pieces of furniture etc, but in general, the overall impression is that of austerity. The exception is only in the parlour, a fairly lavishly (but restrained by our standards) decorated room for the entertainment of guests.

Upstairs, we pass through the sick room and two large bedrooms, the owner’s bedroom (or parlour chamber) being an extremely good size. From the exterior, with its elevated position above the street, the house appears quite imposing… that is far from the impression that one receives from viewing the interior where, although the dimensions are pleasing, the house is simply a comfortable family home. (Although, your tour won’t take you to the third floor or either of the two-story wings other than the gift shop in the west wing).

Perhaps the most attractive portion of the house is the formal garden which is laid out as four themed gardens… the boxwood, holly, rose and flower parterres, all linked by pathways which lead down to a pleasant pond and a classical summer house. It’s a nice place to pass time as you wait for your tour. (2006 admission, house and gardens, $8 adult. Information (410) 267-7619 or 800-603-4020)

Finished in 1779, the Maryland State House is the oldest statehouse in continuous legislative use in the United States. At one time, it housed the Continental Congress and served as the nation’s capital. Over the centuries, it has changed, most noticeably in the dome (1788), the largest wooden dome in the country. The Colonial Revival section of the house, with its Italian marble, was added in the early 20th century.

The visitor passes through the usual security checkpoint into the main hall of the first floor. The first stop should be at the visitor’s information area on the right… an informative brochure is available for self-guided tours while guided tours are offered at 11am and 3pm. The closest room contains a celebration of Maryland’s early history and its part as one of the original 13 colonies. Dominating the display is a full-sized replica of the Maryland Federalist, a boat that, in June of 1788, was sailed to Mount Vernon… a gift from Baltimore merchants to George Washington. (The President’s journal would comment that the boat sank at its wharf 6 weeks later.)

The real encounter with history begins in the blue and white Old Senate Chamber where once sat the Continental Congress which included such notables as Thomas Jefferson and James Madison; this is a house through which several presidents have passed. It is here that George Washington resigned his commission in 1783 and where the Treaty of Paris was ratified to end the Revolutionary War.

Italian marble dominates the House of Delegates just down the hall, where the 141 members represent the people of Maryland. The marble, a striking rust and black, has been used to form soaring columns with Corinthian capitals that reach to arches over the balcony. It is an attractive room, from the sky lighted glass ceiling to the dark blue carpeting. Further on, the New Senate Chamber is a smaller version of the legislative chamber, but decorated in red and white. The walls are decorated with portraits of Maryland’s four signers of the Declaration of Independence.

The Maryland State House is replete with reminders of the past… there is the silver service fabricated in Baltimore by Kirk and Sons for the cruiser U.S.S. Maryland in 1906 and the Charles Wilson Peale portrait of William Pitt, who had championed American rights in the English Parliament. As a whole, it speaks proudly of Maryland’s place in American history.

Saint Anne’s Church is in Church Circle, just up School Street from the State Capital. It is actually the third church built on this site, a brick building in the Romanesque Revival style (1859).

Open daily at 8am, it presents a nice display of stained glass on the walls of a three nave church. In the semi-circle of the chancel, small Romanesque stained-glass windows sit under a ceiling painted to represent heaven. Below, there is an attractive wooden altar piece that was carved by Maryland artist, W.H. Rinehart.

While the pews that occupy the central nave and the side aisles are attractive, dark wood, it is the kneelers that are worthy of note. Each is uniquely embroidered, many of them dated. Under the pews is rough plank flooring; the aisles have been done with square primitive tiles.

St. Anne’s was the church that was attended by three of the four Maryland signers of the Declaration of Independence. It was also the church (for 11 years) of Francis Scott Key, the author of "The Star Spangled Banner". As churches go, it has attractive dimensions without a lot of decoration; it is its history and its site in the center of historic Annapolis that make it noteworthy.