Delhi: The Good, the Bad or the Ugly?

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Overview

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India’s 2nd city (after Mumbai) and home to India’s capital New Delhi, is a bewildering place. It is gifted with such traveller’s delights as a nightmarish traffic, holy cow dung and garbage laden streets, smog polluted air or cheating rickshaw drivers and touting tour operators. However, for people willing to endure these nuisances, another Delhi awaits you, namely a New Delhi with broad avenues and modern buildings, an Old Delhi full of history or South Delhi with large parks and exquisite Muslim architecture.The National Capital Territory of Delhi (in Hindi: Dilli or दिल्ली) has got almost 14 million inhabitants and comprises a number of towns and villages, most notably Delhi (by far th...Read More

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Red Fort

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Attraction | "Red Fort (part I)"

Lahore gate Photo - Red Fort, Delhi, India

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The massive Red Fort, known in Hindi as Lal Qila (लाल किला) was built by Moghul emperor Shah Jahan, grandson of Akbar the Great. After the death of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, for whom he built the world-famous Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan moved his capital from Agra to a newly constructed city. Although this city, which the humble ruler called Shahjahanabad, is the newest of the seven historical cities in Delhi it is nowadays known as "Old Delhi" in contrast to the British Indian capital city "New Delhi". The Shah built his city with much care and planning and encircled it completely with city walls, of which a few parts remain, like the nice Delhi Gate south of the gate with the same name in the Red ...Read More

The massive Red Fort, known in Hindi as Lal Qila (लाल किला) was built by Moghul emperor Shah Jahan, grandson of Akbar the Great. After the death of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, for whom he built the world-famous Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan moved his capital from Agra to a newly constructed city. Although this city, which the humble ruler called Shahjahanabad, is the newest of the seven historical cities in Delhi it is nowadays known as "Old Delhi" in contrast to the British Indian capital city "New Delhi". The Shah built his city with much care and planning and encircled it completely with city walls, of which a few parts remain, like the nice Delhi Gate south of the gate with the same name in the Red Fort or Ajmeri Gate near New Delhi railway station.

The Red Fort gets its name from the huge red sandstone wall surrounding the fort for over 3 sq km. The sometimes over 30m high walls are completely encircled by a deep moat, fed by the nearby Yamuna river, making the fort almost impenetrable. Due to its strategic significance it has been occupied by the British army after the 1857 Indian uprising and by the Indian army after independence. However, since 2003 the army has handed over parts of the fort to the tourist authorities, where it belongs.

Entry to the fort complex is through a side entry of the impressive Lahore gate, at the east end of Chandni Chowk road. Every year on Independence Day (Aug 15) the Prime Minister addresses the nation from the top of this gate. You have to buy your entry ticket at the small building near Lahore gate (Rs 5 for Indian people, Rs 100 for foreigners) before you can walk through the gate. There is another huge gate built in the same style, namely Delhi gate, located on the south end of the walls, but it is currently off limits because this area is still owned by the military.

Just behind Lahore Gate lies a vaulted bazaar, called Chatta Chowk. The shops originally sold silks, jewellery and silver to the royal family but nowadays standard tourist items are sold here for rather inflated prices. If you must buy souvenirs in Delhi, better to wander off to Chandni Chowk bazaar just outside the fort walls. The fort’s garrison is also living in or near Chatta Chowk, making the area outside the bazaar prohibited for tourists.

(continued in part II) Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 13, 2006

Red Fort
West central Old Delhi
Delhi, India

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Red Fort

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Attraction | "Red Fort (part II)"

Rang Mahal Photo - Red Fort, Delhi, India

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(continued from part I)Behind the huge red sandstone Lahore entrance gate to the Delhi Fort you will come to the Chatta Chowk bazaar arcade. If you continue your way east from here, you will pass the main entrance gate to the royal palace grounds and the red sandstone Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audiences), where Shah Jahan and his successors received his subjects whenever he was in town. Beyond this hall no commoner was allowed to tread, because this was where the Shah and his family lived. Their private apartments lie just beyond this hall across a spacious square. At the so...Read More

(continued from part I)

Behind the huge red sandstone Lahore entrance gate to the Delhi Fort you will come to the Chatta Chowk bazaar arcade. If you continue your way east from here, you will pass the main entrance gate to the royal palace grounds and the red sandstone Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audiences), where Shah Jahan and his successors received his subjects whenever he was in town. Beyond this hall no commoner was allowed to tread, because this was where the Shah and his family lived. Their private apartments lie just beyond this hall across a spacious square.

At the southern side of this square where the women’s quarters, including the marble Moti Mahal or Pearl Palace and the large Rang Mahal with its beautiful gilded ceiling and a good view on the nearby Yamuna river. On the north side of the square is the beautiful white marble Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences), where the Shah received his guests of honour. Other notable buildings are the Royal Hammam Building, with its marble baths and fine mural decoration, and the Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque).

Sadly, when the Moghul empire was declining (18th century), many buildings inside the fort were looted and damaged. British occupation of the fort made things even worse, when palaces and gardens were simply destroyed to make room for the British army. In the beginning of the 20th century people began to realize what they were doing and finally the restoration of the remaining buildings took place.

Although the fort is huge (3 sq km inside the walls) many places are still off limits due to the military presence in the fort, but the most interesting structures are open to the public unless you are particularly fond of walls. For a visit to the fort you should count on 1-2 hours.

Entry to the fort complex is Rs 5 for Indian tourists and Rs 100 for foreigners. The fort is within walking distance (1km east) from Old Delhi railway station or Chandni Chowk metro station. From Connaught Place you can take DTC bus 185, 255 or 271 for a few rupees, especially fun during rush hours, or a taxi or rickshaw for Rs 50-100.
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Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 13, 2006

Red Fort
West central Old Delhi
Delhi, India

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Humayun's Tomb

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Arab Sarai gate Photo - Humayun's Tomb, Delhi, India

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Nicknamed Delhi’s Taj Mahal, the mausoleum of emperor Humayun is a splendid example of 16th-century Moghul architecture. Nasiruddin Humayun was the son of Babur, the founder of the Moghul empire in northern India, a direct descendant of Tamerlane of Central Asia and the father of Akbar the Great. He was the only Moghul emperor to loose his Indian territories, namely to Sher Shah Suri who was helped by his younger brothers. After his flee to Persia, he converted to Shi’a Islam, gained the support of the Persian Shah, and retook northern India. His victory was short-lived, as Humayun died only 6 months later in 1556 from an accident. He was succeeded by his 13-year-old son Akbar, who expanded his father...Read More

Nicknamed Delhi’s Taj Mahal, the mausoleum of emperor Humayun is a splendid example of 16th-century Moghul architecture. Nasiruddin Humayun was the son of Babur, the founder of the Moghul empire in northern India, a direct descendant of Tamerlane of Central Asia and the father of Akbar the Great. He was the only Moghul emperor to loose his Indian territories, namely to Sher Shah Suri who was helped by his younger brothers. After his flee to Persia, he converted to Shi’a Islam, gained the support of the Persian Shah, and retook northern India. His victory was short-lived, as Humayun died only 6 months later in 1556 from an accident. He was succeeded by his 13-year-old son Akbar, who expanded his father’s legacy to one of the greatest empires of that time, reaching as far as Kabul.

The tomb of Humayun, inscribed on the World Heritage List of UNESCO, was built after the emperor’s death by his wife Haji Begum. It took around 10 years to complete this magnificent red sandstone and marble structure. The building is highly symmetrical. The square base is 6.5m in height and 100m wide. Right in the middle of this support is the actual mausoleum, taking up one quarter of the square. This shrine, with walls made up of red sandstone with white marble inlays, is topped by a magnificent marble dome reaching 45m above the ground and four smaller domes at each corner. The building is surrounded by a symmetrical square garden with water canals, pathways, and trees. It is the first building of this kind in India, but other similar examples would soon follow, most notably the favourite wife of Shah Jahan’s mausoleum better known as the Taj Mahal in Agra.

Entry to the complex is Rs 250 (4 €). A path from the entrance leads straight towards the square garden. If you have a little time to spend here, it is worthwhile to enter the massive Arab Sarai gate on the right side of the path. This will bring you to another splendid grave, the 20-year older tomb of Isa Khan, a nobleman from the court of Humayun’s enemy Sher Shah Suri. Although not as beautiful and spacious as above mausoleum, it is a remarkably structured octagonal edifice typical for the Lodi architecture favoured in these times. Next to this tomb is the so-called Mosque of Isa Khan, built with sandstone and marble. Inside the complex is also a smaller tomb, reportedly of Humayun’s barber. Outside the complex are even more interesting tombs, like the shrine of the sufi saint Nizam-ud-Din or the tomb of Jahanara, daughter of Shah Jahan.

The tomb is within walking distance of one of Delhi’s most important railway stations, Hazrat Nizamuddin, with direct trains to the south, like Agra or even Chennai (Madras). The station can be reached by public bus for a few rupees on line 181 from New Delhi railway station. A rickshaw ride from Connaught Place would cost you around Rs 50. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 19, 2006

Humayun's Tomb
Nizamuddin, New Delhi
Delhi, India

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Jama Masjid/Friday Mosque

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Attraction | "Jama Masjid"

Courtyard Photo - Jama Masjid/Friday Mosque, Delhi, India

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Moghul emperor Shah Jahan, grandson of Akbar the Great and world-famous for building the Taj Mahal as a mausoleum for his favourite wife, constructed the Masjid-i-Jahan Numa (the "world view mosque" in the emperor's Persian) in the 17th century. It took an important place on the Bho Jhala hillock overlooking the Shah's new capital city Shahjahanabad and the Red Fort. The mosque, more commonly known as Jama Masjid or Friday Mosque, after the Muslim gathering day, is the largest one in India, capable of receiving 25,000 worshippers.The mosque is surrounded by an almost one hectare square c...Read More

Moghul emperor Shah Jahan, grandson of Akbar the Great and world-famous for building the Taj Mahal as a mausoleum for his favourite wife, constructed the Masjid-i-Jahan Numa (the "world view mosque" in the emperor's Persian) in the 17th century. It took an important place on the Bho Jhala hillock overlooking the Shah's new capital city Shahjahanabad and the Red Fort. The mosque, more commonly known as Jama Masjid or Friday Mosque, after the Muslim gathering day, is the largest one in India, capable of receiving 25,000 worshippers.

The mosque is surrounded by an almost one hectare square courtyard encompassed by red sandstone walls. There are three huge gates to enter the complex, the main gate facing east towards the Red Fort, all reachable through a long flight of red sandstone steps. For a satellite view on the complex, you may use the excellent Google maps tool. There is no entrance fee but a camera ticket of Rs 100 (2 €) is required in case you want to take pictures inside. You are obliged to take off your shoes before the gate, but some people may ask a small "guard fee", so it might be easier to take them inside e.g. in a plastic bag or in your backpack.

Behind the gates, the view on the mosque is wonderful. The 80m long and 25m wide central prayer hall of the mosque, topped with three large domes, is flanked with two 40m high minarets, one of which can be climbed for a small fee. Red sandstone is mixed with white and black marble to a remarkable unity. The prayer hall can be reached through 10 arched gates and one large central entrance gate. Its interior is a combination of red sandstone arches with black and white marble inlays. The beautiful marble floor of the prayer hall is, as usual in mosques worldwide, adorned with Persian-style carpets for the praying devotees.

From the Red Fort, walk towards Chandni Chowk and cross the large Netaji Subhash Marg. Take this avenue south for a few 100 metres. Just past the bazaar take the unmarked road westwards. Soon bicycle rickshaws will approach you to do the last kilometre with them. Soon you will notice the steps and behind it the eastern gate to the mosque compound. Be aware of pickpockets and beggars.

The mosque is close to Old Delhi railway station or Chandni Chowk metro station. From Connaught Place you can take DTC bus 185, 255 or 271 for a few rupees, especially fun during rush hours, or a rickshaw for around Rs 50. Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 20, 2006

Jama Masjid/Friday Mosque
Old City, Chandni Chowk
Delhi, India

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Chandni Chowk

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Night scene Photo - Chandni Chowk, Delhi, India

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Probably Delhi's most famous street, Chandni Chowk (also spelled Chandnee Chauk, abbreviated as CC) starts in front of the Red Fort and runs for 2km westwards towards Fatehpuri Mosque, with a similar design than its larger cousin, the Jama Masjid. The street got its name from a vanished 17th century square, called 'Moonlit Square' or 'Chandni Chowk'. The square contained a beautiful pool, reflecting the moonlight, and was reportedly built by Jahanara, daughter of Shah Jahan. Soon, shops appeared around the square and beyond, making it one of Delhi’s largest shopping areas even in our times.Across the wide Netaji Subhash Marg street from the entrance gate of the Red Fort is the Digamber Temple ...Read More

Probably Delhi's most famous street, Chandni Chowk (also spelled Chandnee Chauk, abbreviated as CC) starts in front of the Red Fort and runs for 2km westwards towards Fatehpuri Mosque, with a similar design than its larger cousin, the Jama Masjid. The street got its name from a vanished 17th century square, called 'Moonlit Square' or 'Chandni Chowk'. The square contained a beautiful pool, reflecting the moonlight, and was reportedly built by Jahanara, daughter of Shah Jahan. Soon, shops appeared around the square and beyond, making it one of Delhi’s largest shopping areas even in our times.

Across the wide Netaji Subhash Marg street from the entrance gate of the Red Fort is the Digamber Temple of the extremely non-violent Jain religion, known for its 'bird hospital' for sick and disabled birds. Animal products are not allowed in the temple grounds, even leather is not. Next to the temple starts Chandni Chowk main street, a large but congested avenue. This street contains many places of worship, including churches, mosques and a Sikh temple. Most buildings are in British colonial style, most notably the Delhi Town Hall, although a few houses date back as far as Shah Jahan.

CC main road is excellent for sampling Indian food. Good places are Haldiram's and Natraj Café. For people on a tight budget, roadside hawker stalls sell snacks for below Rs 20. Shopping spree addicts should head southwards from the main road. The tiny but busy streets offer almost anything you can think of. The shops are mostly grouped in bazaars per speciality, like the Moti Bazaar for shawls, Fatehpuri Bazaar for cloth, Chawri Bazaar near Jama Masjid for paper and stationary or Dariba Kalan for silver and jewellery. Other items on sale include tableware, spices, food items, medicines, and even bicycles or washing machines. The streets around CC are very busy and full of people, cows and motorbikes, hence they can become quite dirty and smelly although they are cleaned fairly often compared to Indian standards.

Manu buses ply the roads around Chandni Chowk, but the shopping area is much easier to reach on the Delhi Metro for a few rupees. Chandni Chowk metro station near Old Delhi railway station is just north of the bazaar area. If you want to take a taxi or rickshaw, please note that many of the narrow bazaar roads only take cycle rickshaws. This will cost you around Rs 50 from Connaught Place Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on October 23, 2006

Chandni Chowk
"Old" Delhi, ner Red Fort
Delhi, India

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Bahai House of Worship/Lotus Temple

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Attraction | "Lotus Temple"

Lotus Temple Photo - Bahai House of Worship/Lotus Temple, Delhi, India

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As one of Delhi newest buildings, the Lotus Temple was finished in 1986. It is probably the most visited building in India and maybe even in the whole world, competing with great sights like the Eiffel Tower or the Empire State Building. Apparently there are 3.5 million visitors each year. The architect is the Iran-born Canadian resident Fariborz Sahba, a follower of the Baha'i religion from this temple. Its design was derived from a lotus flower, with white marble petal leafs. The number 9, as the highest one-digit number representing completeness for the Baha'is, comes back throughout the edifice. The marble flower has got 9 outer sepal leaves...Read More

As one of Delhi newest buildings, the Lotus Temple was finished in 1986. It is probably the most visited building in India and maybe even in the whole world, competing with great sights like the Eiffel Tower or the Empire State Building. Apparently there are 3.5 million visitors each year. The architect is the Iran-born Canadian resident Fariborz Sahba, a follower of the Baha'i religion from this temple. Its design was derived from a lotus flower, with white marble petal leafs. The number 9, as the highest one-digit number representing completeness for the Baha'is, comes back throughout the edifice. The marble flower has got 9 outer sepal leaves, 9 middle petals and 9 inner petal leaves, 40m high. Nine doors open up onto the central prayer hall and the temple is surrounded by nine pools. The prayer hall is spacious and light, filled with many chairs for the faithful to sit down. The complete structure is bright white and looks a little bit like the Opera House in Sydney. For a birds-eye view of the complex please look at Google Maps.

In the mid-19th century Persia a man, Siyyid Ali-Muhammad, claimed to be the promised Mahdi, a Messiah-like character in Islam. He became known as The Bab (The Gate) and is still worshiped as the forerunner of the Baha'is. He was shot 6 years after his assertion because he was considered dangerous by the political and religious class of these times. After an attempted murder on the Shah, many of his disciples encountered the same fate. One of his remaining followers, Mirza Hussayn-Ali, later known as Baha'ullah, founded a new religion on the presumption that he was the "Promised One" as said by The Bab that would come after him. Baha'ullah was soon exiled to Baghdad by the Persian Empire. He was followed by many Babis and soon by new disciples. After some wandering like to Istanbul, he ended up in Akka in present-day Israel, home to most of the religion buildings including the Baha'i governing body in Haifa.

Baha'is see their religion as the final one and take up beliefs and principles of previous religions like Buddhism, Islam and Christianity. Due to this syncretism, they are strong proponents for world peace and unity of mankind. There are currently about 6 million Baha'is worldwide, with one third of them living in India. In their originating country Iran, the estimated 300.000 followers are extremely persecuted by the religious regime, unlike other minority religions in the nation.

The temple is located 10km southeast of Connaught Place so the easiest way to reach the building is by taxi or rickshaw (around Rs 100). City tourism buses normally take in the sight on city day tours (around Rs 500). If you must take local transport, Nehru Place bus terminal is a local hub, with connections all over the city, and is only 1km away. Read Less

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on October 25, 2006

Bahai House of Worship/Lotus Temple
Bahapur, Kalkaji
Delhi, India 110019

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The Qutab Minar Complex (Qutb Minar)

Attraction | "Qutb Minar Part I"

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The tallest brick minaret in the world is probably Delhi's most famous sight. The Qutb Minar and its adjacent Muslim buildings are inscribed on the world heritage list of UNESCO, the only one in Delhi apart from the wonderful Tomb of Humayun. The beautiful minaret and its accompanying mosque, the Masjid Quwwat-ul-Islam or Might of Islam Mosque, were started in 1193 by the first sultan of Delhi and founder of the Slave Dynasty, Qutb-ud-Din Aibak, on the ruins of Lal Kot, the first city of Delhi. His successor and son-in-law Iltutmish finished the comple...Read More

The tallest brick minaret in the world is probably Delhi's most famous sight. The Qutb Minar and its adjacent Muslim buildings are inscribed on the world heritage list of UNESCO, the only one in Delhi apart from the wonderful Tomb of Humayun. The beautiful minaret and its accompanying mosque, the Masjid Quwwat-ul-Islam or Might of Islam Mosque, were started in 1193 by the first sultan of Delhi and founder of the Slave Dynasty, Qutb-ud-Din Aibak, on the ruins of Lal Kot, the first city of Delhi. His successor and son-in-law Iltutmish finished the complex. Both were former slave soldiers, also called Mamluks in Arabic, and they originated from the Turkic people of Central-Asia.

During the next decades the complex was expanded and restored many times, even by the British. Notable extensions were made by Ala-ud-Din of the subsequent Khilji Dynasty, mainly the Ala-I-Darwaza Gate and the Alai Minar, which was supposed to be two times higher than Qutb Minar but was left unfinished at only one story and 27m. When lightning struck the fourth storey of the Qutb minaret mid-14th century, the fourth floor was restored and an additional fifth storey was built by then ruler Firoz Shah Tughlaq. These floors are the only ones to contain white marble in their construction.

The Qutb Minar is 72.5m high and rises for 5 storeys. The minaret's diameter decreases from 14m on the ground level to 3m at the top. Its design was based on the Jam Minaret in present-day Afghanistan, built by Qutb-ud-Din's predecessors of the Persian Ghuri Dynasty. Except for the subsequent white marble additions, the complete minaret is made of red sandstone bricks, alternated with sandstone carvings. Different sandstone bands carved with Koran verses in Arabic calligraphy adorn the tower. Each floor is topped with a larger sandstone balcony, decorated with suspending stalactitic structures. Entrance to the minaret is currently forbidden after a few deadly accidents took place. However, one can still see the surroundings through a camera mounted on the top floor.

(continued in part II)

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Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 26, 2006

The Qutab Minar Complex (Qutb Minar)
Mehrauli
Delhi, India

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The Qutab Minar Complex (Qutb Minar)

Attraction | "Qutb Minar Part II"

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(continued from part I)Qutb Minar is the minaret, from where the muezzin called the people to prayers, of the accompanying Might of Islam Mosque or Masjid Quwwat-ul-Islam. The mosque was built by Qutb-ud-Din Aibak and expanded by his successor and son-in-law Iltutmish, just like the minaret. The walls of the crumbled mosque are clearly of an architecture related to the minaret, with red sandstone bricks decorated by exquisite Arabic calligraphy and floral motifs. The former interior of the mosque, now open air as we...Read More

(continued from part I)

Qutb Minar is the minaret, from where the muezzin called the people to prayers, of the accompanying Might of Islam Mosque or Masjid Quwwat-ul-Islam. The mosque was built by Qutb-ud-Din Aibak and expanded by his successor and son-in-law Iltutmish, just like the minaret. The walls of the crumbled mosque are clearly of an architecture related to the minaret, with red sandstone bricks decorated by exquisite Arabic calligraphy and floral motifs. The former interior of the mosque, now open air as well because of its ruined state, displays pillars and walls of a clear Hindu design, partly remains of older Hindu and Jain temples and partly because Qutb-ud-Din has built the mosque with the help of Hindu masons and craftsmen.

In the courtyard of the mosque stands one of the complex' strangest structures, a 7m high iron pillar. Dating from the northern Indian Gupta dynasty around 400AD, it used to be positioned on the Tropic of Cancer, thus making it an important astronomical instrument. Later it was transported to its current site to be a part of a Hindu temple, evident from the pillar's inscription in memory of Hindu deity Vishnu and Gupta king Chandragupta II. This temple was destroyed so the mosque could be built, but the pillar was left in its place. Making the pillar more curious is the fact that the iron is 98% pure wrought iron, something that was only possible in the late Middle Ages in Europe. The pillar has withstood corrosion as well for so many centuries.

One of the most beautiful buildings inside the complex is the tomb of Shams-ud-Din Iltutmish. The red sandstone building has got white marble inlays and is decorated with wonderful carvings. Its structure is quite different from the surrounding edifices. Ala-ud-Din Khilji did some great extensions to the complex around 1300, mainly the unfinished Alai Minar, planned to be two times higher than Qutb Minar but soon stopped after the construction of the first storey, and the magnificent Ala-I-Darwaza, the gateway to the complex with beautiful Arabic calligraphic stone carvings.

The complex is located 12km south of Connaught Place, New Delhi. Count on Rs 100 for the rickshaw ride. Due to its location it might be a good idea to combine a visit with other sights south of the city centre, like the Baha'i Lotus Temple, the ruined fort of Tughlaqabad or the wonderful tomb of Humayun. Guided tourist buses are available from New Delhi for around Rs 500 or you can hire a rickshaw for one day for the same price if you bargain a little. For people on a budget bus #505 from New Delhi Railway Station and CP runs to Mehrauli bus terminal at a distance of 500m. Entrance to the complex is a hefty Rs 250 (5 €). Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on October 26, 2006

The Qutab Minar Complex (Qutb Minar)
Mehrauli
Delhi, India

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