Slow Down - This is Moloka'i

The quintessential Molokai experience is a mule ride to the former leper colony at Kalapaupa. While you can hike the 1,600 feet down and back up again, riding gives you time to take in the immense beauty of the trail. The third option is catching a flight ‘topside’ to the small airport on the peninsula. Molokai Air Shuttle, Paragon Air, and Pacific Wings all offer service to the peninsula from Molokai, Maui, and Oahu. Molokai is not for everyone. That is the sentiment I heard echoed by all the former Hawaiian residents I talked to. There is no deluge of brochures offering tours and activities when you step off the plane. A trip to Molokai truly needs planning to get the most out of the trip. There is a lot to know and one has to assimilate the knowledge from many sources. The best place to start is the Molokai Tourism Board.

Quick Tips:

Plan as much of your trip as you can, beforehand. The tourism business has less capacity so activities fill up in the high season.

Best Way To Get Around:

Getting to Molokai can be an adventure in itself. Many people use the ferry that connects the harbor and Kaunakakai with Lahaina on Maui. The 3-hour ride across the channel can be choppy at times. Flying to Molokai is quick and fairly inexpensive. Island Air operates the largest aircraft currently serving the island, a 37-seat DeHavilland Dash 8. Molokai Air Shuttle flies frequently to Oahu. They operate smaller Piper Cheyenne aircraft that can transport about 8 to 10 people. Paragon Air is more of a sightseeing service but can arrange on-demand flights. Pacific Wings is based in Maui and offers flights from OGG to Kalaupapa. Be aware that the smaller airlines have limited baggage space. Also, if flying from Honolulu, Molokai Air Shuttle, and Paragon Air fly from the general aviation ramp on the south side of the airport.

You will need a rental car on the island if you want to get around. I saw many older bus stops but no buses. As of this writing, Dollar and Budget are the main car rental companies on the island. There is also an independent car rental company that is locally owned and rents late model vehicles in very good shape.

Molokai Ranch is a sprawling enterprise that occupies most of the western side of the island. It was a Sheraton property until 2004 and is now part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group. If you have done some research about Molokai, you know choice in lodging is fairly limited. There are condos, b&b's, the Molokai Ranch and the Molokai Hotel in Kaunakakai.

The ranch offers two experiences for your stay. The first is a room in the lodge complex (22 rooms and the only elevator on the island). The main lodge building houses the Maunaloa Room restaurant, the Paniolo Bar & Grill and an amazing lobby on the main floor. The fitness center and spa are downstairs. Upstairs there are 6 rooms, lounge areas and three patios. The bridal suite is room #105 in the main lodge (as featured in MauiJon's review). Two cottages flank the main lodge building. Each is two stories tall with lanais that face the ocean miles down the sloping hill. There is wireless Internet access in the lodge and an infinity pool (but no hot tub). An expansive veranda rings the main floor of the lodge with plenty of chairs to relax in.

The other option at the ranch is to stay in 'tentalows' in the Kaupoa beach village.

The Lodge is definitely the most luxurious lodging you will find on the island. The downside is that it is in the small town of Maunaloa on the west end of the island. We found ourselves making the 17 mile drive back to Kaunakakai several times as most of the sights and businesses are located in the middle part of the island. Thankfully it is only 38 miles wide! I would definitely recommend the hotel and request room #105 next time!

*** 2008 UPDATE ***
At the end of March this property has decided to close.

In my journal entry overview of the hotel, I describe the overall resort amenities. This entry focuses on our room at the Molokai Ranch Lodge.

The Lodge offers standard and deluxe rooms at comparatively reasonable prices. The standard room is offered for approximately $250 per night while the deluxe room is offered at approximately $300 per night. Both room types are uniquely decorated with ranch-themed artifacts from the area. The cowboy-themed throw pillows on our bed were hand-stitched by a local artist. You may be wondering about the difference between the two room types. The hotel’s website comes up short here so I will attempt to fill in the blanks. The deluxe rooms include what is described as an additional king-size bed. In reality, I would describe it as a day bed as it fills up an alcove and is situated across from the television. The day bed is very comfortable and would be perfect for kids. Aside from the day bed and extra room to accommodate it, I do not think there are any more differences. The bathroom was really the luxurious part of the room. I supposed that even a cowboy (or girl) needs well-appointed facilities to get washed up for supper. The bathrooms are furnished with natural stone floors. A pet peeve of mine is when the room’s theme does not flow into the bathroom. In this room, the theme of the room continued seamlessly. The hand-made towel bars and hooks matched the drawer hardware for the dresser and wardrobe. The spacious bathroom includes an antique style claw-footed bathtub, a large shower and plenty of room to unpack toiletries.

The little touches really separate hotels like the Molokai Ranch. Details like sea salt in a large sea shell by the bath tub helps to justify the room’s price tag. To get back on track, each room also has a separate tile counter bar area. This was great as it housed the coffee maker and refrigerator. It is so nice when the coffee maker has to compete for scarce real estate on a countertop. This would be impossible here as the sink is the old fashioned pedestal type.
The four post king bed was a treat after an action packed day. The mattress and pillows were very comfortable. The linens were great. I’d say it is on par with the Westin Heavenly bed.

One peculiarity at this hotel is that there are no ice makers. An employee comes by your room around 5 PM to turn down the beds and offer to fill your ice bucket.

All in all, I’d say the rooms offered at the Lodge are well worth their price tag. Take a drive to the Molokai Hotel and have dinner at Hula Shores restaurant. Take a look at the hotel and rooms. The Molokai Ranch Lodge caters to the well-heeled traveler who demands luxury on the not so luxurious island of Molokai.

Paddlers' Inn is Moloka'i's newest restaurant, opening its doors in 2004. The menu is fairly simple and they cater to the tastes of the locals. We had a casual dinner on the patio and breakfast inside during a rainstorm. Both meals were very good but the service was slow (even for island standards) during breakfast. This restaurant pays homage to the island's non-official sport of paddling.
The patio and outside bar is lively and about as close as you are going to get to nightlife on the island. The local patrons are very friendly and will strike up a conversation and make sure the bartender knows you are thirsty. If you are going to be on Moloka'i for several days, I recommend visiting Paddler's Inn. You can now visit their website at http://paddlersinnmolokai.com

Billed as the best dining on the island, we visited Hula Shores twice; once for drinks and returned for dinner. The island's reef makes the ocean glassy so there is not the constant sea spray and wind that is sometimes associated with ocean front dining.

Reservations are recommended in the high season but visiting in September, we never had a problem getting oceanfront tables to admire the sunset painting the island of Lana'i unreal colors.

Nightly entertainment is a nice touch and features talented local performers performing popular and original Hawaiian songs. One night we were treated to a song called 'Holo Holo Bucky' that paid tribute to the local FedEx driver. The next visit we were treated to an excellent rendition of 'Moloka'i', originally performed by Malani Bilyeu.

Prices are very reasonable, the waves gently lap 10 feet from your table and the service is friendly. This is the perfect place to dine on Moloka'i and I wish I was there at this moment sipping a tropical drink while watching the sun slip behind the coconut trees swaying in the evening breeze.

Before our mule ride to the Kalapaupa peninsula, we had planned on having breakfast at the Kamuela Cookhouse. It was surprising to find that the one restaurant in the tiny, former plantation town of Kualapu'u was not named Kamuela, but Kualapu'u. Clearly the name change had occurred between the publication of our guidebook.

Kualapu'u Cookhouse once served as the cookhouse for workers at the nearby Dole Pineapple plantation. The building is quaint yet was alive with animated discussion on the Saturday morning we dropped by. We were the only haoles in the place but were welcomed like long lost family members. When a table became available, some of the other patrons went out of their way to round up a chair for me. Everyone wanted to know where we were from and how we liked their island so far. I would've told them much more if it had not been less than 24 hours since our arrival.

The food is delightfully down home, but expect considerable waits when the restaurant is busy. The staff makes the best of things with the limited cooking space and facilities they have. Our breakfast was immense; breakfast sandwiches on fresh bread sitting in a bed of potato slices. As it was almost time to hit the trail, we took our meal to go. It was excellent and I wish I had more time to savor it before hopping on the back of a mule. A local guy named Benny told us to come back on Thursday night as the place is very lively then.

On our last day of the island, we found ourselves in the neighborhood so we decided to drop by again for lunch. Hunting is very big on Moloka'i and so is teriyaki. You will find the marinade on most menus. Knowing the cookhouse is probably the most authentic purveyor of plate lunches in the island, we indulged in their teriyaki chicken. The meal was excellent and the service was very quick. One would not expect the variety that is available at this restaurant. The hamburger stand façade belies the fresh fish and beef offerings. You can’t go wrong with one of the plate lunches on the menu. If you want to eat like a local, this is the dish to order.

I was pleasantly surprised to see that they have not strayed too far from their plantation origins. Inside, the tables are Rubbermaid folding tables. There are 5 or 6 picnic tables outside that sit under corrugated steel trellises.

A meal at the Cookhouse feels more like visiting a friends or family than dining at a restaurant. The food is fresh, influenced by the local palate and served in the local atmosphere that is indifferent to the tastes of visitors. The Kualapu'u Cookhouse is a gathering place for the small town. Step inside and you are welcomed as if you have lived around the corner all of your life.

For the most part, ‘fast food’ does not exist on Molokai. While there is one Subway, most people are not in much of a hurry to do anything, let alone eat. Somewhere in between sit-down and fast food exists Molokai Drive Inn. Located on the main highway as you head east out of town, the Drive Inn is something out of a bygone era. Like other Molokai restaurants, the building’s diminutive size fools one to believe there are only a few offerings. Stepping inside the enclosed ordering lobby, the menu covers nearly all of the glass windows that separate the waiting area from the kitchen. Traditional American fare coexists with Hawaiian and Asian specialties. There is an extensive breakfast menu and several different desserts. Prices are very reasonable, as you might expect from a drive in type restaurant where your meals come on paper plates. There is an outdoor covered area where cats congregate to lounge in the shade. Molokai Drive Inn is perfect when you want to grab a quick bite to eat before exploring the island.

Molokai Plumeria offers a chance to make your own lei by hand-picking plumeria blossoms in their orchards. After a brief lesson on how to pick plumeria and which blossoms are most desirable, they turn you loose to pick as many blossoms as you care to. They recommend picking about 50, but we were so caught up in the hunt, we probably ended up with more than twice what was needed. The blossoms are rinsed in a special solution to remove the sugars before hitting the sewing table. This was a chance to talk to the proprietors about the business and some of the challenges they face. We learned the orchid leis that are so commonplace (we would receive them that evening when checking into the Westin Maui) are made in sweatshop-like conditions for less than $1. The whole experience was well worth the $15 and they send you home with the needles should you get the urge to sew up some leis in the future. Our leis were beautiful and stood out from the ordinary leis.
There is no sign and the building sits off the road a few hundred yards. Just look for the orchards on the north side of highway 460 about 3 miles west of Kaunakakai. Their website makes no mention of the tour but you can arrange it by email of phone. Cost is $15 per person and additional leis can be purchased. http://molokaiplumerias.com

Post-A-Nut is a unique offering at the post office in the small agricultural town of Ho'olehua which lies just north of the airport. The office has bins full of dry, brown coconuts. These are lighter than ones fresh off the tree because they do not contain water. Pens and markers are provided and you can decorate your coconut in any manner, as long as there is enough room for a return and destination address. The coconuts are shipped priority mail and arrive at their mainland destination in 3 to 5 days. Each coconut costs approximately $6 to ship, depending on weight.

It seems everyone describes this downtown staple with superlatives. I don't know if there has been a change of ownership but this was the one negative experience we had on the island. One day we were in to browse and were treated with absolute indifference. A few days later, we met at the shop to leave for the reef kayak/snorkeling trip that they offer. The same middle-aged Caucasian guy was sitting at the register and apparently we inconvenienced him when he had to fit us for fins and masks (that are included in the trip). After bagging our gear up, he held the bag out to my girlfriend and flatly told her "I'm not your porter". This was after spending over $200 in his store. Unfortunately, one has to use the company by default. I had heard there is another activity company that operates out of the store at the Hotel Molokai. When investigating with their concierge, they referred me to Molokai Fish and Dive.

This being our first time on Molokai, we decided to sign on with Molokai Fish & Dive to do their Palau sea kayak trip. We met at the store at the prescribed time and were told to drive to the boat ramp to meet our guides. Thankfully it is a small place because no directions were offered. Our guides eventually showed up but had to run back to the store for something. Thankfully the weather and company was pleasant because we did not launch for at least 45 minutes. In a testament to the friendliness of the local people, a group was returning with their catch and volunteered to show us the local seafood.

Eventually, we paddled a ways out from shore and anchored in three foot deep water. This was several miles from the boat ramp and the depth rarely exceeds 5' inside the reef. The snorkeling was less than spectacular. I had expected much more than the other islands but was disappointed. The shallow water made snorkeling difficult as the tide was out and the reefs were only a few feet under water.

Regaining our kayaks, we paddled to an inlet that twisted and turned several hundred yards through mangrove trees, eventually ending in a lagoon. After the provided lunch (Subway sandwiches), we were towed back to the boat ramp. This was much appreciated as the current begins to pick up and paddling would've taken hours.

The guides can make or break a trip like this and the guides that were along were just kind of 'there'. They didn't offer up any local knowledge or point out what types of fish to watch for. They were just along to shepherd our group and tow us back. The guides on the mule ride were much better and I can remember each of their names. I can't recall either of the names of our guides on the kayak trip. They were friendly enough and took photos of everyone with our own cameras but I expected more for $90.

My advice would be to rent a kayak from an outfitter and do a similar trip on your own. It is much cheaper and you can launch from the boat ramp and paddle around the shallows. Rent snorkeling equipment and a mask and devise some way to anchor your kayak while you are snorkeling. A 5' length of rope would be perfect to loop around a coral outcropping. If you have a sense of adventure, this would be the way to go.

The Molokai Museum operates on the grounds of the R.W. Meyer Sugar Mill. Rudolph Meyer was on his way to seek his fortune in the California Gold Rush but was detained in Hawaii and decided to stay. The fascinating history of his family is intertwined with that of the island.

Admission to the museum is $3.50 for adults. The museum building is fairly new and very modern. There are many photographs of the island and it's people. Upon entrance, the docent sets you up with two films to watch. One is a documentary on the construction and restoration of the mill and the other is a National Park Service film about the former leper colony at Kalapaupa and the restoration efforts and challenges being faced.

After browsing in the museum, you can take a self-guided tour of the mill. As it is the smallest mill in the state, the tour does not take long. The unique thing about the mill is that it has been restored to working order.

While not for everyone, history buffs will enjoy the museum. Those who are not history buffs will not have to suffer for long as the museum will only take 30 to 45 minutes to visit.

What is more "Molokai" than the Molokai Mule Ride? The Mule Ride is simply the thing to do on Molokai. Anyone that has been to Molokai will ask if you "rode a mule down to the leper colony". You can either respond "no" or "yes, and I have the diploma to prove it!".
The mules are there to solve the pesky problem of getting down (and more importantly, back up) a trail that drops over 1,600 feet in less than 3 miles. The extreme vertical nature is only surpassed by the natural beauty that encompasses it.
Molokai Mule Ride has a very informative website. There you can find the latest pricing (about $175 at the time of writing), check availability and communicate with employees. Since a plethora of information is available on the site, I’ll go through what you can expect on your tour.
When arriving at the stables on the morning of your ride, check in with the person inside. Tours often include up to 14 during the high season and the staff must match up each person with a mule. After a short introduction to riding a mule, you saddle up and head to the trailhead, about a quarter mile further up the road. After a short ride through level forest, the mule train comes around a bend and things really start to go downhill. While adjusting to the steep grade, the Kalaupapa peninsula comes into view, amazing first-time and repeat riders alike. One of the biggest advantages to riding a mule has to be the fact that you are free to enjoy the view. Riding allows one to enjoy the view, but you must pay attention to guiding your mount down the trail. The guides notified us that we would learn the meaning of the phrase "stubborn as a mule" and they were not kidding. Mules tend to what to poke along and eat the foliage along the way. This is forbidden as they eat when they arrive at the bottom. It takes about an hour and a half to traverse the trail but between the scenery and keeping your mule on task, it feels like 20 minutes.
The staff on our trip was amazing. They knew the name of everyone on the ride (about 12 people) and the name of their mule. It was amazing since I was just learning the name of my mule and the three staff members by the ride back! They would frequently call out to you and were very friendly on the ride. This was in stark contrast to tour guides we had later in our trip.
Riding a mule to the Kalaupapa Peninsula is truly a unique experience. Both of the other methods of getting to the peninsula are cheaper (flying and hiking), but not nearly as fun. My advice is to do the tour the traditional way, collect your official diploma and bumper sticker after the ride and join the hallowed ranks of Molokai Mule Skinners.

Flying to small airports usually means small planes. Aviation enthusiasts thrill while others cringe at the thought of a 'puddle jumper'. If you are worried about flying in these relatively small planes, I will do my best to allay your fears.

Most likely, your flight will originate in Honolulu or Maui’s Kahului airport. Flights depart through standard gates in Maui. If arriving from the mainland in Honolulu, you must claim your bags, exit the airport, and walk (or ride the Wiki Wiki shuttle) to the commuter terminal. Regularly scheduled airlines operating from this terminal include Island Air, Go!, and Pacific Wings. If you are planning on having something to eat between flights, don’t count on the commuter terminal. There is a small newsstand before security and a small sandwich shop in the gate area.

All flights are open seating so Southwest-like lines do form as the aircraft pulls in. Flying small planes on short routes, ground crews are able to turn aircraft around very quickly.

The older 100 flies at slower speeds. However, the plane is extremely stable and renown for it’s STOL (short takeoff or landing) capabilities. Generally, these planes only need 2,500 feet of runway to takeoff.

The climb and descent are usually the two bumpiest parts of the flight. Low altitude turbulence often occurs when land meets ocean and Hawaii has plenty of this scenario. The flight smooths out quickly and the lower operating altitudes make your trip more of a sightseeing flight.

En route, take a look at the airline’s official magazine, Holo Holo. There are some amazing coupons in this magazine, especially if you are traveling to Maui or Moloka’i. Arriving at smaller airports in the Island Air system will change your attitude about airports if you are used to feeling like a rat in a maze at major airports. The plane pulls up to it’s parking spot on the ramp, the door is opened and you walk into the gate area, claiming your bag from a large table. That’s it!

Until 2004, Island Air was part of Aloha Airlines. It is common for smaller airlines to operate behind the scenes in the guise of its parent (Mesa Airlines for American West, Skywest Airlines for Delta and United, etc.). An independent Island Air is now thriving without battling recent upstart Go! (which is operated by Mesa), Aloha and Hawaiian in the inter-island fare wars. One reason for their success is the fact that they serve two airports that none of the above mentioned airlines do; Kapalua airport on Maui, Lana’i City and Ho’olehua on Moloka’i. Other small airlines fly to these destinations, but none operate aircraft as large as Island Air does. That being said, you can take comfort in the fact that you are flying the largest aircraft possible. Island Air has two variants of the DeHavilland (now owned by Canadian Bombardier) Dash 8; the -100 (37 seats) and the brand new -400 (78 seats). If you are flying to Molokai or Lana’I, you will fly the smaller -100. The runways on these islands are 4,494 and 5,001 feet, respectively. For comparison, the runway at John Wayne airport in Santa Ana, CA is 5,701. Turboprop planes fly to these airports because of public demand, not because of the runway length. The current trend in the airline business is to offer smaller aircraft at greater frequency.

Time is of the essence when traveling to your vacation destination. The sooner you arrive, the more time you have to enjoy yourself. Don’t avoid smaller islands for lack of transportation options. Most or the larger operations allow online booking. Island Air retains a partnership with Aloha and Hawaiian so you can even book your connection flights through those airlines. My advice would be to check fares on Island Air’s website, as well. I was able to save $50 per person, per segment by booking directly with Island Air instead of booking through Hawaiian Airlines.