The Atuel Canyon, San Rafael, Mendoza

The Atuel river canyon is not as deep as Copper Canyon in Mexico, nor as deep as the Colca Canyon in Perú. Actually it is only a fraction of what you can find in the Colorado Canyon in Arizona. However, it is a beautiful place to visit. It is located between the Nihuil dam (some 40 miles away from San Rafael) and the Valle Grande rafting area (some 15 miles away from San Rafael), to which I will refer in another article.

There are four hydroelectric power plants along this section of the river, so that the river is interrupted where water is diverted to the power plants, but in those zones where there is water, it is completely transparent.

I have been told that there is rainbow trout fishing in this area. However, I walked down miles of the river 30 years ago and was not able to catch any. Upstream from the dam, in the El Sosneado area, I have caught many times 5 pound rainbow trout. This must be at the beginning of the fishing season (October), because upstream of the dams the water generally is not clear.

The canyon has beautiful banks, in some places 1,000 feet high, with all sorts of figures (if your imagination is smarter than mine, you will find more figures than those I noticed), and it is a place worthwhile visiting, specially if you combine it with the Valle Grande rafting area, the Andes in Mendoza and the Valley of the Moon in San Juan.

This tour may be done from Mendoza (a one day tour that lasts 16 hours and costs including lunch), but you will have to travel over 400 miles in one day. If you prefer a more relaxed tour, stay at San Rafael (or at the Valle Grande hotel and resort, a very nice 3 star hotel and resort) and buy a local tour from there.

Downstream from the canyon is the Valle Grande Dam and lake, and the Valle Grande rafting area, where a 45 minute rafting experience will cost you less than .

But don't be deceived by the photos; in some places the water runs pretty fast...

Just have a look at the photos. It is a very nice area to include in your travel to Mendoza, Argentina.

Quick Tips:

There are regular inexpensive bus services from San Rafael to the rafting area (empresa Buitroni).

Best Way To Get Around:

The full tour if you want to visit the Canyon, or bus if you are only interested in rafting and in visiting the dam. A taxi from San Rafael, the nearest important city, population 80,000, and at a distance of 15 miles, should be costing some 15 dollars each way. I have more than 20 photos I wish to post, but have not been able to upload any photos during the past ten days. I trust that the problem will be solved soon. I have some beautiful photos for uploading... If not, please click on this link to see my own photos of the area: http://groups.msn.com/ElGustodeViajar/surdemendoza.msnw You will notice that all these photos are mine, since they have been posted under my name.

This hotel is located in a beautiful area, if you want to be away from everything, and relax. It is at a walking distance from the Valle Grande dam, three blocks away from where you can take an inexpensive rafting tour down the river, and I have been told that there is good fishing in the area. It is in a dry area, so chances of rain are minimal. The distance from San Rafael to this hotel is 15 miles. If you stay 3 or 4 nights (I do not remember the deal precisely) they give you a free tour navigating the lake. Here is the hotel:

www.hotelvallegrande.com

I visited the Valle Grande Hotel and Resort last year during a tour to the Atuel Canyon, and felt that it is a very nice place where to stay. I had lunch here, and it was fine. This is a beautiful 3-star hotel and resort (rated as a 4-star resort by Welcome Argentina) where a double room costs some US$30 to 45 per person and per night (low and high season rates). It is in the rafting area and one mile downstream from the Valle Grande dam and reservoir. Downstream from the dam you can take beautiful photos. And from the top of the dam you have a view of "The Submarine", a curious form that emerges when the lake is low and disappears when it is full.

The program of activities of the hotel includes the following:
Swimming pool, solarium, swimming pool for children, recreational activities, open air activities, soccer, basketball, volleyball, sauna, hydro-massage, rafting, motorboat tour of the lake (complimentary if you are there four nights).

San Rafael is near. A taxi from San Rafael should cost less than fifteen dollars. It is a place to enjoy, whether on a one day outing or staying a whole week. I have been told that there is trout fishing in the area, although I cannot guarantee this, because I did not take my fishing rod with me this time. In any case, some 50 miles further up this river I have caught 5-pound rainbow trout a number of times, upstream from the bridge of National Highway 40 at El Sosneado, on the road from Mendoza to Las Leñas, Malargue and Bariloche.

The whole area resembles some films of the Far West, with vegetation only by the side of the river. It is an ideal place for walking, because the traffic is minimal. And you can even go walking to the lower part of the Atuel River Canyon. The whole place is beautiful, the hotel seems to be very nice, and prices are affordable. Probably the nicest place for staying near San Rafael, although you could find it difficult to get tours from here to Las Leñas and other nice spots in the area, like the Galileo Vitale dam, El Sosneado (thermal baths and a lagoon with good fishing), los Reyunos dam...

Enjoy your stay in San Rafael.

Although the Atuel river goes nearly dry downstream from the different dams (there are 4 or 5 in the canyon), there are beautiful pools with crystal clear water, and the flow of the river is important. There is a capture limit of 2 trout per day in the Atuel river. For perch fishing the established limit is five perch per day.

I tried fishing once in the Atuel River inside the Canyon and was not successful, but have been told that there is good fishing in the river, and I believe this is true because there is good fishing in the Nihuil lake (28 miles further up the Atuel river)

I have also fished in El Sosneado upstream from highway 40 bridge. My experience has been that you need clear water for fishing here, and since the fishing season starts on November 1 (and ends on May 1) the first two weeks of November or towards the end of April would be the best time for fishing. You are only allowed to fish with artificial lure (fly-fishing or spinning). I have fished 5-pound rainbow trout in this area quite frequently, although not in large quantities.

The Grande river at Bardas Blancas, south of Malargue, is another favorite place of fishermen. However, since an 18 pound rainbow trout was fished in the river many years ago, it has been overfished and trout here are generally smaller than in the Atuel river.

Another option in southern Mendoza is the Arroyo Grande at El Manzano histórico, west of Tunyan. There water is generally clear all the year round and you can catch two pound rainbow trout. The fishing limit here is five trout per day, the same as in all the province of Mendoza, EXCEPT the areas of San Rafael, Malague and Las Leñas/Valle Hermoso. Do not go too far upstream, because you the trout will be smaller as the stream carries less water.

The Laguna del Sosneado is another nice place for fishing, but there is no public transportation for getting there, so unless if you are driving a rented car... On the other hand, there are many reeds in the lagoon and that makes fishing more difficult. Once I fished a lovely 5 pound trout in that lagoon casting from the coast, but 4 of every 5 casts came back with weeds on the lure. Fortunately I did not loose any spinners. I had to go hiking, and had to come back on the top of a truck with sulfur, so by the time I got off the truck, you would have thought that I was Chinese... yellow everywhere... Of course, at that time I was 30 years old...

I trust I have given you a fair picture of fishing in Southern Mendoza. But remember, the fashionable place for fishing now, quite near Mendoza city is the new Potrerillos lake, where good trout fishing is being reported, and where you are allowed to catch 5 trout per day.

Finally, fishing in any of the artificial lakes formed by dams in the mountainside (there are quite a few in Mendoza) like Potrerillos, El Nihuil, Galileo Vitale, Los Reyunos, etc. could be quite rewarding, especially if you do some trolling.

For spinning: In the Grande and Atuel rivers you can use number 4 Meps spinners (and in some cases even 18 gram Abu Droppen) while in the Arroyo Grande you might want to use very light spinners, such as Meps numbers 1 or 2. And if you go fly-fishing (I am not an expert in this area) you need to watch what the fish are eating before you choose your fly. Generally speaking, emerald green fluorescent and yellow flies give good results.

Andesmar buses take you from San Rafael to both El Sosneado and Bardas Blancas. They also take you to Tunuyan, but from there you need to take a taxi to El Manzano histórico. If you are not renting a car, you might as well ignore this last option. This is the web page of Andesmar, one of the best bus companies in Argentina: www.andesmar.com.ar

To see my photos of this charming area, please click here. I have been unable to upload any photos during the past week or so: http://groups.msn.com/ElGustodeViajar/surdemendoza.msnw?Page=1

Enjoy your stay in southern Mendoza.

Knowing that Las Leñas is very expensive, I had never visited this prime ski resort, until I found out that I could visit it on a tour from Mendoza for less than thirty dollars… This is a place where you will find many American and European tourists during the high season, since they can afford to pay what Argentinians cannot…

Las Leñas is undoubtedly the largest ski complex in Mendoza, very probably in Argentina, and quite likely in all South America. It has over twenty tracks for skiing and snowboard, a number of ski lefts (even rope lift for snowboard, where it is interesting to see the youngsters hanging on to the rope while they go up the mountainside on their snowboards), and a unique combination of three ski tracks allows the skiers to come down 12 kilometers (seven miles and a half) at a time.

To have a look at the ski tracks click on this link. If you see a small map, click on it to enlarge it. If you see it larger than the screen of your computer, move up and down and from side to side to have the complete picture: http://www.liveargentina.com/Argentina/Tematicos/Esqui/MendozaSKImapa.htm

Although it is very expensive (hotel rooms cost over 270 dollars for a single room in July), before and after the prime ski season it has very interesting low season packages for a week, including the chairlift that here is very expensive. Check this page for more information: www.laslenas.com. Here is a list of seven different hotels, although all belong to the same complex: www.laslenas.com/Default.aspx?template=category_doble&Id=80 . The place has an impressive beauty, but you are not allowed on the chairlift unless if you go up with skis. Seniors (over 65 years of age in Argentina) can request a free pass at the Public Relations office; otherwise they will have to pay like any other human being.

Las Leñas, although small is very complete. It has a small shopping center, where you can buy crackers and other articles at affordable prices. There are cafeterias facing the snow. There are also ski schools for small children, teenagers, and adults. Everything is expensive here. A bottle of wine at the restaurant La Cima costs anything between twenty and far more than one hundred dollars. However, you can look for specials. When I was there a year ago I paid twenty pesos (7 dollars) for a plate of chicken and french fries and a Coca Cola. The price did not include any dessert, but there was nothing cheaper than that. Breakfast (of course, in front of the ski tracks) cost nearly six dollars for a cup of coffee with toast, preserves, and a glass of orange juice. There is a regular bus service from Mendoza to Las Leñas (I understood there were none, but check this page where Expreso Uspallata says that they have a service that runs on Friday night from Mendoza to Las Leñas, www.eusa.com.ar. I may add that Expreso Uspallata is a company with very nice comfortable buses, as far as I know they only feature semi-bed and bed services, but not the Suite Class (or premium bed service). I traveled on an organized tour of Andesmar (a comfortable semi-bed service, but with no meals on board, only self-service coffee) that leaves from the offices of Andesmar Turismo on Espejo street (NOT from the bus station) Friday nights at 11pm, arrives at Las Leñas at 6am, when it is still dark and you can see the lights of the village and their reflection on the snow); cafeterias open about 7am. The climate here is not as freezing cold as at Penitentes or Las Cuevas, and during the afternoon you can see people drinking coffee in the open air in front of the ski tracks. The tour departs from Las Leñas at 5pm and arrives back at Mendoza city slightly after midnight. On the way back they stop at a cafeteria for a snack, not included in the price of the tour. While the bus is at Las Leñas it remains open all day round to that you may go back for a rest at any time. Last year this tour was costing some 27 dollars, and it could be costing some 35 to 40 dollars now. There is also a regular bus service from the nearby city of Malargue (one hour and a half away) that runs twice in the day. Of course, there are also other tours that come from Mendoza city, but that leave about 3am in the morning, and stay less time at Las Leñas. I prefer to leave before midnight, since Mendoza is not a completely safe city, and also because leaving earlier I have more time for walking around.

To stay at a hotel in Las Leñas is out of the question for me, but the prices may be OK for you. As I already said, you cannot go onto the chairlift if you do not go up with skis, but do not worry. There are a few scenic roads from where you can take unforgettable photos. I went walking up to the La Cima restaurant, about half a mile away, and took photos from under the chairlift, and photos of people skiing in the mountain. So the eight hours the tour stops there are more than enough to walk around and enjoy the scenery. Last year the snow accumulation had been so important that they extended the ski season during the summer months. And this year it is snowing as never in Argentina. Where I live in Córdoba it snows at the most once in the year. Winter has not started yet, and we have had already three snowfalls.

International ski competitions take place at Las Leñas. I have seen people from all over the world over there, and that is probably why it is so expensive, and also the reason why prices drop to about half in August, and even further from September onwards. The one-week packages that are being offered just now are really very attractive, and include the ski-lift that is expensive. If you go in the summer, you have the additional attraction of large rainbow trout fishing at Valle Hermoso, only 15 miles away, and at low season rates. I have not checked the price of the local tours from Las Leñas (there are some), but assume that they will be more expensive than the tours that depart from Mendoza city or from San Rafael. I may add that the local bus service inside Las Leñas is completely free and you can use it to get around. However, distances are short, and you will enjoy far more taking photos if you walk around and select the nicest angles. You will see skiers passing just in front of you. I forgot to tell you that you can rent skis snowboards (prices are rather high, however so if you take your own skis, far better) and that you can also go up the mountain on a snow cat. Enjoy your stay at the most important ski center in Argentina.

I have been unable to post my own photos here (there may be some technical problem just now), so I am adding links so that you may see how beautiful this ski center is. In the first link you will find 77 of my own photos of Valle Grande, the Atuel Canyon and Las Leñas, all in southern Mendoza.

http://groups.msn.com/ElGustodeViajar/surdemendoza.msnw?Page=1

Here are some more photos of this beautiful area: www.argentinaturistica.com/informa/lenifotos.htm

Enjoy your stay in southern Mendoza.

In 1967 I arrived at Mendoza city selling books and decided that it was the city where I wanted to live, after having traveled town by town over fourteen different Provinces of Argentina. Even today, it would be my first choice, if it were not because the cost of living is somewhat higher than in the province of Córdoba, where I live. Unfortunately, the oil company where I worked decided to replace me by another employee that was earning half my salary…or I would still be living in that charming city.

Mendoza is a beautiful city, with all the advantages of large cities, and none of its problems. Being so near Chile, it is literally invaded by Chilean tourists due to the favorable exchange rate, not only for touring but also for shopping. Although Mendoza's prices are not as good as those you will find in Córdoba (Ituzaingó street) or in Buenos Aires, it still offers good options for buying. If you want fashion, you will go to the Palmares Shopping Center in Chacras de Coria or to the Mendoza Plaza Shopping in Guaymallen. As I said above, I lived three and a half years in Mendoza and never would have left, but I lost my job and had to relocate in Buenos Aires. Climate is wonderful, if you want to see Cinerama or go to a symphonic concert, you have those options. Surprisingly, it is one of the provinces with a high theft rate, so common sense is indispensable. Avoid late hours on the street in solitary areas, and avoid also crowded areas...

HOTELS. A one star hotel will charge you anything between 20 and 25 dollars per night. Mendoza has only one five star hotel, a Park Hyatt. The Aconcagua hotel (4 stars) would be my choice IF you can afford it. www.hotelaconcagua.com. I stayed at a good 2-star hotel (Castelar, Gutierrez 598, Phone (54-261) 423-4245) and paid 20 dollars per night. But that was two years ago, and now it could be costing some 25 dollars for a single room. I would NOT stay at the hotel Mallorca (1 star), I stayed once there, it was an old room at the end of an open gallery, and it was not up to one-star hotel standards (even in Argentina).

Food is not expensive in Mendoza, a meal can cost anything between 5 and 10 dollars. A full-day tour to the Andes can cost some 25 dollars per person, and if you bargain it with the travel agency, they may include the meal: otherwise you will spend some 8 to 10 dollars more. Recommended tours: Mendoza Alta Montaña (full day, up to Las Cuevas and Aconcagua Park); Cañón del Atuel (beautiful, but it lasts some 14 hours) cost some 15 dollars; city tour, some 10 dollars. "Ruta del Vino" (wineries and vineyards).

There is a very nice mountain hotel in Uspallata, some 60 miles away from Mendoza towards the Aconcagua. Uspallata is a very nice quiet village with some 3,000 inhabitants, with a pastoral scene and buses about every couple of hours to Mendoza. The Gran Hotel Uspallata is a good option if you want to relax. It has a large park and view towards the mountains. It is a 3-star hotel and has affordable rates. This is their website: www.atahoteleria.com.ar/uspallata. You will have to ask rates using their query form, but I remember that they were not outrageous, but quite cheaper than in Mendoza city. If you want to go to Las Leñas, I suggest you go on a tour and come back the same day. Hotels in Las Leñas are very expensive (as much as 280 dollars for a double room in July). But Las Leñas is fascinating. See my separate report on this ski paradise.

You can go walking to the General San Martín Park; it is beautiful, has a beautiful lake, a rowing club and a nice rose park. There are also traffic vans that tour you through the park at an affordable price. If you are more than two, you might want to hire a taxi up to the Vallecitos ski center. It is an enjoyable trip and will cost you some 30 to 35 dollars (for the trip, not per person). The most important ski center in central Mendoza is Penitentes. You will see it on the high mountain tour. Regular bus services can take you there. Buses to Mendoza: From Buenos Aires: Andesmar (first class service); Autotransportes San Juan, San Juan-Mar del Plata and others. Avoid TAC. Not all their buses are bad, but... From Córdoba: Andesmar and Mercobus. From Tucumán, Catamarca, La Rioja and San Juan: Andesmar From Bariloche: Andesmar. Expreso Uspallata (www.eusa.com.ar, website in construction) has very comfortable buses and also runs to Buenos Aires, Córdoba, Las Leñas and other destinations. Taxis are not expensive. Andesmar seems to be running no longer from San Rafael city to Mendoza, but other companies cover this route about every two hours.

Wherever you go, don’t miss a visit to Mendoza city It is a charming city. To see my photos of Mendoza city, please click here: http://groups.msn.com/ARGENTINAPAISMARAVILLOSO/fotosderobertoingledew2arg.msnw?Page=11