Iruya (Salta), a trip to the past with beautiful sceneries

Iruya is a small village of one thousand inhabitants at an altitude of more than 9,000 feet that still lives in the past. Barter is a common practice there; money is not frequently used. Some people are afraid that with the inauguration of a 4 star hotel, this may change drastically. There is a clash of cultures. You may see a last-model pick-up parked in front of a donkey, the other transportation means of the area... The whole area is fascinating. But I must give you some warnings: you are not supposed to use bikinis in Iruya (only one piece bathing suits) and are requested to not take any photos of the people without requesting permission. The notice also says: "Don't give them charity. They do not need it."

Some people say that the culture of their people is two centuries back. However, the fact that they use electricity and vehicles does not allow any comparison with Amish communities in other parts of the world.

There is only one road to Iruya, from Humahuaca, and it is an earth road. In heavy rain seasons you may find yourself unable to return. So check the weather forecast before you travel, and avoid the rainy season (December to February).

The photos will give you an idea. I wish I could post over twenty, to show you what it is like. If you want to see more photos, click on this link (it is a note of mine in Spanish, posted in an MSN group that has 24 notes in Spanish written by me on Northwestern Argentina). http://groups.msn.com/BURBUJILANDIA1/visitarargentin.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=2145&LastModified=4675589391851889830

I am sure you will enjoy the photos. Have a nice trip. If you go to Salta, don't miss Iruya. And don't miss Cachi. I will soon write about this other beautiful destination.

There is one bus a day from Humahuaca that makes the round trip, with a stopover of about one hour at Iruya. I recommend using a taxi, to stop wherever you like to take fascinating photos. Taxis cost about 50 cents, maybe 60 cents of a Dollar per mile. You only pay the one-way trip, but you have to set the price before you get on the car.

Quick Tips:

Do not take photos without requesting permission, some people are superstitious and believe you are stealing their soul. Do not use two piece bathing suits. These people live in the past, and will feel bothered. Do not give them charity. The board at the entrance of the town says that, adding that they do not need it. The tourists hotel (4 stars) charges about 60 dollars a night for a double room, but you can walk the down in an hour and go back to Humahuaca, where there are cheaper hotels. If you want to stay, ask the taxi driver to find some cheaper hotel. I was only there one hour and have no idea what other options there are, but I know they exist. Some families in the village accept tourists at lower prices, but I do not know their rates. This village is in high demand, and if you go on a weekend, you might find no hotel vacancies.

Best Way To Get Around:

Bus from Humahuaca is the cheapest option, but only runs once or twice a day, and you will loose the chance of taking beautiful photos on the way. The bus stops one hour and returns to Humahuaca. The name of the company is Empresa Mendoza. A taxi from Humahuaca is the best option, and should cost you some 30 to 40 dollars for the car (NOT PER PERSON) including an hour for walking the down and as many stops as you may require for taking photos, and the trip back to Humahuaca. But you must bargain the price before you get onto the taxi. I paid 45 dollars for a trip from Purmamarca to Iruya (round trip). Purmamarca is a fascinating place to visit due to the colors in the mountain.

I was at this beautiful town slightly more than one hour, but found out which were the nicest places where to take photos. The narrow streets of the village are paved with stones. I found at least 3 places where you can get beautiful panoramic photos: 1) The entrance to the village. A panoramic view from here is incredible, and if you zoom in the church you can take another beautiful shot. 2) Passing by the tourist hotel, there is an miniature chapel with a virgin. Walk up to the top and you will have a very nice panoramic view. 3) Crossing over to the football field. That is also the place where the inhabitants do their barters. You do not need to interact with the people, if you do not want. Just start looking at the landscape from underneath. I am posting photos taken from each one of these sites. Enjoy your trip to Iruya. It is only 50 miles away from Humahuaca. But, remember, avoid the rainy season because landslides can occur with heavy rain and the road can be cut for a day or two. There is no other way out of Iruya apart from the road to Humahuaca.

As I mentioned in the overview, there is only one road to Iruya, from Humahuaca. But knowing that Purmamarca is beautiful, I got off there from the bus and hired a taxi all the way from Purmamarca to Iruya, nearly eighty miles each way, after visiting the "Paseo de los Colorados" in Purmamarca, a place where traditional tours do not take you. It is only two miles away from the center of the village, but some local travel agencies prefer you to spend your time buying crafts from the artisans. Only God knows why... maybe the tour drivers receive a percentage from the artisans, you never know... The whole trip from Purmamarca to Iruya through Humahuaca (a full-day trip) cost me some 45 dollars, but prices have increased since then, and it could be costing about 60 dollars now. I will soon write another note on Purmamarca (Jujuy).

So after visiting the Paseo de los Colorados, and enjoying beautiful colours in the mountainside, we pass through Tilcara, where we see the Pucara, a fortification of the Incas, that on this trip we see at a distance. Then we buy some typical "empanadas" in Humahuaca and start off our trip to Iruya. We see some goats crossing the road, and then make a stop at Iturbe to see a typical goat corral in the mountainside. Half the road from Humahuaca to Iruya is in the province of Jujuy and the other half in the province of Salta. It is a 50-mile earth road, that gets cut when it rains heavily (in the Summer season). But I did this trip after checking the weather forecast, and enjoyed the trip with dry weather and a beautiful blue sky. I saw a herd of sheep in the mountainside and asked the driver to stop. I was about to take my second photo, when the driver told me in a rush: "Let's get out of here!" Then I noticed that the pastor of the herd, we aiming at us with a pastor's sling. The superstition amongst the collas that live in the mountain is that if you take a photo of them, you are trying to steal their soul... We came across two very nice and well dressed young girls. I was preparing the camera for a photo, when the first girl, about 8 years old, said politely: "If you want photos, you will have to pay". I asked the girl how much (I had given two pesos to a colla in Humahuaca for a photo). And the five year old girl answered with determination: "Ten pesos!". So I said thank you, took no photos and continued my trip. Of course, ten pesos is slightly more than three dollars, but that is what I spend normally for a budget lunch in Argentina... (In Salta you can get a hamburger with tomato, ham and cheese for a dollar, if you know where to go...)

Half an hour later we arrived at the border of both provinces. So far the scenery was mostly arid, but now, it started to become green. We went through some irrigated areas, and stopped to take a photo of a newborn donkey, at the side of the road. Two sweet little children came out of nowhere, posed for a photo, and we gave them a tip. Half an hour later we were arriving at Iruya. Our first view of the town was beautiful, and I have already shared with you some of the nicest views of this village. Culturally speaking, they are two hundred years behind the rest of Argentina. Of course, they are far more healthy, spiritually speaking. They live in another world, money is hardly used, they practise barter most of the time, maybe changing food for kids, or whatever. Recently a four star hotel was inaugurated, and some people are afraid that the village may loose its cultural heritage with so many strangers hanging around. Two years ago, there was only one public phone, that hardly ever worked, no Internet... and still there is no ATM in the village. The Pinamar Cooperative came over and set up Internet. Now young people are in contact with the rest of the world. Where that is good or bad, I leave that answer up to you. I really enjoyed my trip to Iruya.