Green Mountain Getaway (Aug. 2006)

My girlfriend and I had never been to Vermont. So, when we were planning our latest vacation, and wanted to stay close to home, we ended up in the Green Mountain State.

We stayed in Montpelier, and had day trips to Burlington and Waterbury for some of the popular sights.

The scenery, the mountains, the friendliness of the Vermonters made this a great trip.

Quick Tips:

Travel "off-season". The scenery is still magnificent and you can save some money.

Foliage season is big up there, and hotel rates adjust as such.

Best Way To Get Around:

With no major public transportation system, a car is really a good way to get around.

There are usually parking spots with reasonable rates nearby.

This was our first visit to a bed and breakfast, and would most likely not be our last.

We arrived a tad early, and we were able to check-in easily. We went upstairs and our room (room 2) was right at the top of the stairs.

The whole house was appointed in country/Victorian decor. Perhaps a bit too old-fashioned for me, but fits what I picture a B&B being.

Every morning, there was a hot breakfast ready to start your day (that, and gratuity, is included in the room rate). You had a choice of style of eggs, a meat (i.e. sausages, bacon), as well as fruit, cereal, juice and coffee. The service was good and food was fantastic.

The room was tidied up every day, which was nice. We typically leave our rooms neat anyway, but it was nice to come back to a nicely made bed everyday.

Parking: There is a gravel lot across the street, a couple of spaces on-site, and street parking. We never really found an issue in parking. In the winter though, know that you can't park on th street (per the city).

Location: It is perched along a hill on East State Street. It is about a 10-15 min walk downhill to downtown Montpelier, or a couple minute drive. Once in town, there are a couple municipal lots (with meters) to allow you to walk downtown.

Overall, for a first B&B experience, it was a pleasant one. The location is good, the food was good, rates were reasonable (off-season, aka not foliage season). We would recommend this to our friends

My girlfriend is a HUGE fan of Food Network personality, Alton Brown. He is an alumnus of the New England Culinary Institute located in Montpelier. She noticed that the Institute has 3 local eateries where the food is made and the shop is staffed by students

Located in downtown Montpelier, this little cafe/bakery seemed to be a local favorite. We went there in the late morning (prior to lunch) and found it to be bustling.

We had an early lunch. They had a meal package with a side salad or soup, half a sandwich, and a dessert for about $5 (I forget the exact price). Everything was fresh and delicious. Other items seemed reasonably priced as well.

Along one side of the restaurant, you could look into the test kitchen where students would hone their craft.

Food was good, people were friendly, and service was brisk. I would go back there again.

Our first night in town, we needed something to eat. We saw this restaurant on our way in, and figured we would take a peek.

We parked across the street in a municipal lot, which after 6pm, was free. Parking on-site is limited to about 10 cars.

The wait was about 15 minutes, which was fine for us. They called us in and we were seated in the rear of the restaurant. The table was neatly appointed with a white table cloth and a white napkin, while the dress was casual.

The waitress...let's just say left much to be desired. It took her a good five minutes to even acknowledge us. When she did, she didn't introduce herself, didn't tell us the specials, just asked for our drink order, and if we were ready to order food. We had JUST sat down.

She returned with our drinks and swept by with bread, and we didn't hear from her until the food came out. Even then, we didn't really hear from her. Her demeanor was cold the whole time.

On the plus note, the food was EXCELLENT! Large portions and quality, hearty food.

The check then came. I handed her two $20's. She then took off with it, and came back a few moments later. "Um, the check is X and you only gave me one $20." I told her, no, I gave her two. She insisted that I was trying to stiff her, and believing I only gave her one. My girlfriend had witnessed that I did take two out of my wallet, and hand her two. She left and retraced her steps. She found it...she had DROPPED IT!

Overall, I would recommend this place. The atmosphere was nice, the food was tremendous, and I can only believe that other than that one waitress, the service is good.

Call us kids at heart.

We decided to stop by the Vermont Teddy Bear Factory on our way up to Burlington.

Location: It is conveniently located right off Route 7 with ample parking. FYI: while I did not try it, it appears you can then take Route 7 North right into Burlington (that is what I gather from a map.)

Cost: $2/adult, kids (12 and under) free. However, keep an eye out. There are coupons everywhere in VT for free admission. We found ours at one of the visitor information centers alongside a highway, while we made a pit stop. If you don't find one though, don't fret. I think $2 is VERY reasonable.

Tours are every fifteen minutes. They are led by cheery employees who aptly tell you the history of VT Teddy Bear and how they are exactly made.

For your convenience, and perhaps the angst of parents :-), there is a fully stocked store at the plant. Be advised, "Vermont Teddy Bears" (with the black tags) are a bit pricey ($40+) puls clothes. They do have a line called "Friends for Life" (purple tag) that are a little cheaper ($20) and are warrantied the same way as the other bears.

All bears are loved the same way.

This is a cheap, creative, and educational stop for kids, parents, and the kids at heart. Certainly well worth the stop.

I decided to conclude our day in Burlington with a romantic surprise for my girlfriend: a cruise on Lake Champlain.

However, I didn't want to do those large, non-intimate ferry cruises. I wanted something...different. After some poking online, I found the Whistling Man Schooner Company.

Located behind the ECHO Leahy Center For Lake Champlain, it is right near those big bad ferries.

It is a replica of an early 1900s Friendship sloop, making it more intimate...exactly what I wanted. It holds 12 passengers, plus a Captain and First Mate.

What was nice is that you could bring your own food and drink onboard, so you could make it a lunch/dinner cruise if you wanted.

The price was a little more steep than those ferries ($30/person) for a 2-hour cruise, but it was WELL worth it. As the website suggests, I would call ahead for reservations, especially their sunset cruise, which we took.

How gloriously amazing that was. The weather was fantastic. The boat was great, and the sunset: Amazing.

More information can be found here:
http://www.whistlingman.com/

Overall, a bit pricey but how amazing an experience it was. DEFINITELY would do it again!

One cannot visit Vermont and NOT visit one of the state's big claims to fame: the Ben and Jerry's Factory.

Location: I-89 to Exit 10 (Route 100 North), Waterbury, VT

Cost: $3/adults, $2/kids, 12 and under free.

This could become a pricey endeavor. You first have the tour tickets, then the gift shop, and the ice cream stand. If you have children, bring the cash. You will probably need it.

Tours start every 30 minutes and do tend to fill up fast. However, don't fret. There should be room in a following tour.

You begin by proceeding up a set of stairs to a viewing room where you watch a film on the history of Ben and Jerry's. Afterward, you proceed down a hall to an overlook where you can view where the ice cream is made, frozen, packed, and stored. My apologies: pics were not permitted at this part of the tour.

You then continue down a set of stairs to a room where you taste the flavor of the day. Ours was Apple Pie. You guessed it...it tastes like Apple Pie.

The price for the tour might be a little steep, given what is contained in it. Don't get me wrong, it was cool and interesting. However, for a movie, some looking, and a scoop of ice cream...might be a little high (by my standards).

However, if you have never been, it is worth it, at least once. :-)

Vermont is officially known as the Green Mountain, but it could also be called Dairy Country. Milk and cheese are huge parts of Vermont's culture.

Location: right off Route 215, with ample parking, with parking lot up a hill.

Cost: $2 per person over the age of 12.

We visited the "main" Cabot facility in Cabot Village. You enter via the visitor center, where you can purchase various Cabot and Vermont Souvenirs (the cheese will come shortly). You pay the cashier for the tour, get your little button, and wait for your turn. That button within itself could be a souvenir.

You proceed onto the tour. First stop: A viewing room where you watch a brief film on the history of Cabot. Did you know that Cabot is not just one dairy or farmer, but rather a cooperative? I didn't :-).

You then continue down into the actual factory. Yes, it does smell like cheese, but what do you expect, it is a cheese factory after all :-). Through glass in the hallway, you can watch the vats churning, the packaging, and the testing lab. You are really feet away from all of it.

Kids, I think, would get a kick out of it. However, they may need a little help connecting the dots (this happens, then this, etc).

At the end of the tour, you are released into their cheese shoppe. You can buy your Cabot dairy products right there, straight from the source. Cheese blocks, shredded cheese, yogurt...you name it, they have it.

The best part: FREE SAMPLES! In the middle of the shoppe is a table with all these different varieties of their cheese. Jalapeno, Horseradish, Sharp Cheddar, low fat, bacon...all there for your taking. You could spend all day chowing down on the goodies.

Given the price, this tour was well worth it, and I would certainly consider visiting again.

While I would never consider myself a wine expert, I do enjoy a good glass of wine and even better free wine.

Cost: Free

Location: Durcharme Road (See below)

We knew that this winery was near Cabot, so we asked the kind cashier at Cabot how to get there. She told us to leave the parking lot, take a left, and take a right onto Ducharme.

However, she did NOT say that it was a dirt/gravel road, with curves and hills. You really couldn't go safely more than 25 miles an hour. So we putted, and putted, our way there, and eventually made it.

It was very discreet, set down a small hill, and looking like a small ranch home. However, the view was wonderful (so THAT'S why they call it Grand View).

We were the only ones there. A woman behind a counter greeted us, and my girlfriend explained that we were there for a tour and tasting. She then directs us to the right, and opens a door. Inside, we see large drums where wine is stored to ferment, as well as smaller ones for smaller brews. She explained that the owner of the winery took it up as a hobby, and showed us generally how things worked.

(NB: This is a winery, not a vineyard. Difference: They just make wine, and don't grow the grapes, whereas a vineyard grows the grapes AND makes the wine)

She then brought us back to the main room for the tastings. She offered tastings of open bottles (about 5-6 wines). We did sample each, and all were very tasty. The one thing that the tasting did lack was something to cleanse the palette. I think in some instances the flavors started to meld.

Afterward, she asked if we wanted to purchase any wine. We were the ONLY ones there and hadn't intended to buy any (given our previous and forthcoming purchases). However, being the only ones there, we felt a bit obligated to do so, so we did buy two bottles to bring back to Massachusetts to enjoy.

This is certainly not really suitable for kids. The clerk was friendly and knowledgeable. The view was magnificent. The "tour" did lack a little, but still was interesting.

If you don't mind a gravely, dirt covered road, take a small trip up there for a taste of some local fare.

On our way home south, we decided to stop in and take a peek at Harpoon Brewery's Vermont location.

Location: 336 Ruth Carney Drive, Windsor, VT, ample parking

Cost: Free

I have to admit...I am not a huge fan of beer, but I am willing to try anything once or twice. We walk in, and are greeted by two cheering attendants at a bar. We tell them we are there for the tour, and they direct us to a door in the back.

It was more like a holding pen. There was some fencing to keep us from wandering places we shouldn't. You kind of didn't know what you were looking at. The guys working in the brewery were friendly and said hello to us. One told us what they were bottling that day (an IPA).

There was a small display behind us discussing the history of Harpoon, and beer.

We then went back in for our samplings. I tried two beers, and my girlfriend tried two of their own sodas. We decided to make up a six pack (soda mainly, and one beer for her dad) and we headed down the road.

They also have a little restaurant in there. I can't speak to the food, as we didn't eat there,

The staff was friendly, beer was relatively tasty, and prices were good. I would consider going back there again.

Having enjoyed the Mystic Aquarium in Mystic, CT, and the New England Aquarium and Museum of Science in Boston, MA, I figured we would take in the sights at ECHO in Burlington, where it may be the best of both worlds: science and aquatics.

Location: Along Lake Champlain, at the foot of College Street

Cost: $9/adults, $8/seniors and students with ID, $7/children 3-17

The venue is small and overlooks Lake Champlain. Upstairs, they have a deck that overlooks the water, which is absolutely gorgeous.

The facility is great for kids. It has reptiles, some fish, and other exhibits that rotate out. While we were there, they had an exhibit called "Grossology", describing how the body works with some of those other slightly unpleasant things the body does. That was very interesting, and heck, it had a large "Operation" gameboard in the hall.

Having been to the other venues listed above in Mass. and Conn., this didn't wow me. It was small, seemed slightly dated. Some of the exhibits needed some rehab.

However, if you are looking for something for the kids to do, they will be "ooh"ed and "aah"ed.

This could have been the more morbid part of our trip. A stop by a place that makes...headstones, and other stone memorials. Rock of Ages is one of the nation's largest makers of such items. In Barre, you are able to see how these statements in stone are made, as well as take a chance of making your own.

Don't be confused. There are two locations for the same company. Coming down the road, the first one you are going to stumble across is their "visitor center". A newly constructed building behind their plant. There, you will find the history of Rock of Ages, and see examples of their work. It is also there where you can board their tour to the quarry. A bus will take you down the road to their quarry to see where all their fine rock comes from.

While we did not take the bus tour (due to time), it does leave every 45 minutes and their prices seemed reasonable ($4/adults, $1.50/kids 6-12)

You can go on a short self-guided tour by going into the processing plant in the rear of the visitor's center. You end up on an overlook looking down onto the manufacturing floor. Here, you can watch the hard men and women creating lasting memories for many.

For the record, while a good portion of their business are headstones, they do also manufacture benches and stone monuments for larger buildings and cities.

It was truly remarkable to see simple slabs of rock turn into magnificent monuments.

They also have an outdoor granite bowling alley on-site at the visitors center. While we were there, kids were having a kick out of bowling and resetting their own pins.

If you leave the visitor center, and turn left out of their parking lot, about a mile down, you will see their stone activity center. There, kids can take part in activities like grinding flour with a granite wheel and constructing a quarry truck (for a fee).

One neat thing you can do is sandblast for yourself. You can purchase a tile, with a wax design on it. You then put it in a box and blast away, with the supervision of a Rock of Ages employee. When you are done, you sit and painstakingly remove the plastic covering and remaining wax, to unveil a sandblasted piece of work that you can take home.

You can walk to the back and look at the rear part of the quarry and see a wonderful pond. They also have some free samples of the blasted rock. They appear to be leftover shards, so kids need to be careful, but with the right pieces, they could bring home something.

All in all, it was a good experience. Price was reasonable, given that we did the free self-guided tour, and only bought one souvenir.

Kids and families, I think, would have a good time at Rock of Ages, even if it is where eternal memories are made.

My girlfriend had done some digging and found this large open-air market in Burlington. She is a fan of Fanueil Hall in Boston, so she suggested that we should visit her discovery: the Church Street Marketplace.

Located between the UVM campus and Lake Champlain, this mecca of merchants won't leave you hungry, not entertained, or without new couture.

Parking is available at a variety of neighborhood lots. We parked in the parking garage adjacent to the mall. NB: If you park here, you HAVE to take your ticket with you, because you must pay BEFORE heading back to your car. While we were waiting to get out, we noticed one driver who didn't know this policy, and had to literally run back into the mall while a line of traffic behind her waited.

While the open-air nature of the venue makes it reminiscent of Fanueil Hall, there are some striking differences.

Yes, like in Boston, Church Street has its street performers and its handful of mainstream major retailers. However, Church Street has an "attached" 50+ store mall, like you would see in suburban America.

Outside, there are more local retailers and eateries, whereas Fanueil has a lot of mainstream retailers.

We ate at the Church Street Tavern. Small, intimate dining areas with a bar created the pub environment in northern Vermont. Service was very good with a prompt, courteous greeting from the waitress. The service was outdone by the superb food. Pub basics done really well, and ample portions. The onion rings...phenomenal. Prices were reasonable as well (about $7 for a sandwich).

The day we went was wonderful with blue skies, and cool temperatures. People were in great moods, and you couldn't help but get sucked into the window shopping.

As long as it is good weather, I would suggest a stop by the Church Street Marketplace.