A year in London

History, pubs, and yes, the food. When you go to England, you really understand how young America is. The British Museum has a incredible collections from the ages and the National Gallery is a must see. The pubs in England are much more than bars. They are a combination of a bar, rec center and chain style restaurant. Everyone rips on English food, so when in London, don't eat English unless you go to a recommended restaurant. There is an abundance of French, Asian and other enthnic food. The parks in London can't be described in words. They have the most beautiful flowers I have seen in my life. Take several hours to walk through one of the parks. Mostly when you are in London, talk to some of the friendlest people in the world.

Quick Tips:

If you are going to be in London, DON'T DRIVE. Take the tube or a cab. The daily TravelCard is a good deal. If you are out late you can take a mini-cab. Go to one of the many stands around the city. They are much cheaper than black cabs, but you can't hail them, and women shouldn't ride alone in them. For a posh yet affordable meal, go to Sunday brunch. You can eat at many of the nicest restaurants in the city for less than 20 GBPs. Bring an umbrella, you will need it. Try and book entrance to attractions on the Internet. Take in a show in SoHo. Go to one of the half price stands in that area for same day tickets.

Best Way To Get Around:

See above, DON'T DRIVE. The tube and the buses are the quickest way to get around. From Heathrow, take the tube or the Heathrow Express. From the Gatwick or Stansted take the Express train. There is also a bus that is a bit cheaper, but it usually will take much longer. Late at night you can take the night bus. The tube shuts about 11:30 PM, but varies by station. Most times, walking is an enjoyable way to get around. There are several walking tours of London which allow you to appreciate English history from an avid local. The meeting locations are published in most guidebooks.

The Hilton Olympia is an old English style hotel and is showing its age. My wife and I stayed at the hotel three times in our first few weeks in London. The rooms are dated, small and cramped. The furniture was worn. On two of my three stays, even though I asked for a non-smoking room, the room I received smelled smoky. The service at the front desk was adequate and there were people to help with bags. For frequent stayers at Hilton, the front desk staff did not seem up-to-date with Hilton policies.

The breakfast buffet was expansive having English, Continental and Japanese choice. The food looked presentable, although they tended to run out of things if you came down later in the morning. My wife and I enjoyed a late night club sandwich and chips in the bar, which they made for us even though the kitchen had closed.

The hotel is close to many attractions such as Kensington High Street and Hyde Park. There is a extension tube station next door (infrequent service), or you can enjoy a 10 minute walk to the station in Earl''s Court. Although I am not positive, I believe the express train to Gatwick leaves at the train station next door. To go to Heathrow, I recommend using the mini-cab stand that you find by turning left out the hotel door. The hotel is near the A4 which goes right to Heathrow. Make a reservation the night before.

This was not my favorite hotel, but it is a Hilton and well situated. It also tends to be less than some of the other American chain hotels. If you get a good rate and want to stay at a Hilton, this is a reasonable choice.

Very nice modern hotel right around the block from the Gloucester Road tube stop. The rooms were large and modern (which is unusual in London). The bar was lively (as the English football team was staying there when we were) and posh. For such a nice hotel, the cost was very reasonable. The Hotel is in a central area near many museums and parks. There are several good restaurants nearby such as Bar One and several decent pubs. For breakfast or lunch there is a good bakery nearby on Gloucester road. They have danish and bread in the morning, and mini-pizzas for lunch. The concierge has maps and was helpful finding things.

This is our very favorite place to eat and hang out and I think epitomizes the English life. You wouldn't happen on the pub walking through the tourist areas, because it isn't in them. It is secreted away on a road near W Brompton Station. Always crowded with locals, it is a place to meet friends, have a pint or a bottle of wine, and savor a great meal.

In the winter there are two fire places that make it cozy. In the summer you can sit outside at the picnic tables in the beer garden. The mediterranean food is simple, fresh and always delicious. The menu changes daily with some regular items showing up periodically and always includes fish, meat, and pasta. Starters might include madeira onion soup with sweet paprika and sultanas or a warm goat cheese salad. Every day there is a different anitpasti. Mains include fresh fish such as poached haddock with aromatics or grilled marlin steak. Two of my favorite dished were the Moroccan Chicken Tagine or Grilled lamb chops. Sides include fresh rocket, cous cous salad, roast red onions and mustard mashed potatoes. There are one or two puddings (desserts for us yankees) that were consistently yummy.

On a recent trip in October 2001 we returned to see if anything had changed. The food was still fantastic. Recently they added an awning to their outdoor garden. Now you can still enjoy eating outdoors on those rare rainy London days.

To get there turn left out of W Brompton tube station, proceed down the road one or two blocks, and turn left on Seagrave Road. It is on the left about a block down.

Owned by the Rolling Stones we went to this American style restaurant. If you like bad undercooked food and poor service, this place is for you. We had heard they cooked a mean burger, so after several months in London, we went eagerly. Well, they forgot to cook the burger as it came out almost raw. I ordered ribs which can only be described as crunchy. We were not bothered at all by our waitress, which is a shame since we would have liked to get drinks and such.

It's not all bad, the decor was fun with a bunch of Rolling Stone memorabilia.

This is one of the top gastropubs in the London area, and it has a well deserved reputation. It is a bit outside of central London in a residential area in Ravenscourt Park. The atmosphere is lively and entertaining. There is a pub area with a good selection of beers and an excellent wine list. The back offers seated dining. The menu changes daily and offer extremely creative and delicious modern British food. While I don't do them justice, examples include duck and berry terine, an incredible crab and guacamole salad, roasted duck, and many types of fresh fish. This is a place to get a full meal. Start with a pint at the pub, because unless you get there early you will be waiting a while. With dinner, order a bottle of wine and peruse the chalkboard menu. Ask questions because the menu is extremely creative and very British. Order a starter and a main. If you are adventurous, I recommend you get a more exotic item. Watch them cook the food in the exposed kitchen. Savor you meal and order one of the inspiring puddings. After your meal order coffee and an aperitif. The wait staff can help you pick one of their wide range of ports.

The staff is very friendly and will answer any question you have. Dinner starts at 7:00, but they start a list for tables at 6:30, so arrive then or you will have to wait for the second seating. You can also eat in the pub area if you can snatch a table.

Abbaye serves Belgian food and beers in a fun and modern atmosphere. This restaurant is near Gloucester Road tube on Old Brompton Road. Dining options include a chic bar area with big comfortable chairs, a seated dining area for a romantic interlude, or a patio out front when you want to enjoy that nice day.

Sampling the wide variety of Belgian beers will be a treat. You can have a refreshing Hoegaarden in a HUGE glass, or a fruity Kriek (cherry) beer. In bottles they have several varieties of the famous Chimay abbey beer. You might also try a gueze, which is a slightly sour beer uniquely made in Belgium through an open air process.

The food is traditional Belgian, which became one of my favorites. If you like mussels, get one of the many varieties here. My favorite was the Madras, which is a frequent special. They are served piled high in a big pot with chips (fries to us Americans) or bread. My other favorites included a tender lamb shank with a Kriek reduction, pan seared duck served with stoemp (mashed potatos with vegetables in them), or chicken supreme. For dessert my favorite was, you guessed it, a Belgian waffle served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.

My wife and I happened across this place in our first weeks in London and returned many times. To get there turn right out of Gloucester Road tube station onto Gloucester Road. Continue three blocks to the intersection with Old Brompton Road and turn left. It is on the left about a block down the road.

A new find on my trip to London in October of 2001, Cottons Rhum Shop is a friendly and eclectic restaurant serving up tasty, and in my opinion, authentic, Carribean specialties. The restaurant is right in the heart of Camden Market on Chalk Farm Road. As we walked up to the restaurant and perused the menu, the hostess enthusiatically encouraged us to come into the restaurant. As we were thinking of trying it anyway, we took her up on her offer and were seated at a cozy and private booth in one of the three eclectically decorated rooms. The restaurant truly looks like a Rhum Shop, if you can imagine what that is. There are carribean decorations throughout the colorfully painted restaurant. Our server was quick to bring us a cocktail which included Margaritas and Strawberry Daqueris. The wine list was small, but had an adequate number of reasonably priced choices.

To start our the evening, our waitress brought out a platter of starters, on the house. These included fish cakes and other carribean specialties. The mains consisted of many spicy fish dishes, as well as a few chicken and vegetarian items. I enjoyed a red snapper with a spicy carribean salsa which was amazing. The fish was incredibly fresh and perfectly cooked. My wife has the jerk chicken, which was authentic and tasty.

We sampled two desserts which included a creme brulee, and a mango and ice cream dish. Both nicely finished off our dinner.

Throughout our meal the service was friendly and attentive. Given the quality and location, the prices were reasonable. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and would eagerly return again.

Walk through the park at almost any time of year and it will be different than the last time you went. Both the heath (the un-manicured part of the park) and the manicured gardens will blow you away. There is a Japanese garden and a Rose garden. There are also numerous sculptures that you will find interesting. After your walk get a cup of expresso at the cafeteria, take in a posh meal at Belvedere(reservations required), or see a concert. The simplest pleasure is just sitting on the grass and watching the other people play and relax. My wife and I were frequent visitors to the park. We started going in March, when the flowers and trees were first blooming. The Heath was continually changing through the Spring and Summer, with different flowers at different times of the year. There are two restaurants in the park. The first is a cefeteria where you can get simple meals, a soft drink, or a coffee. You can sit outside and relax as you take in the sights of the Park. The second is Belvedere, an excellent fine dining establishment. Almost all the tables have pleasant views of the park and the food is traditional and excellent. If you reserve months ahead, you possibly could get a table for Sunday brunch.

Step back into the glory of England's Kings at Hampton Court Palace. You will see a spectacular palace and the mark on it left by not one, but three of Englands Kings. Start by touring the royal apartments of Henry VIII. See the sweeping changes that William made while running the royal treasury dry. Next you can see the apartment of George II. Have you wondered what it was like to work in a palace such as this? Tour the Tudor kitchens and you will imagine yourself preparing a medevial banquet for Henry VIII. Finally, wander through the Maze and the Privy Garden.

This and the Tower of London were my favorite attractions in London. There are two guided tours that are included in the price of admission. These are excellent and add a personal perspective from the knowledgable tour guide. For example, did you know that the King is entitled to 9 differnet meats with Dinner, but only 7 at lunch and breakfast? The audio guide, also included, is also excellent and gives a narration on the remaining areas.

Being outside of London, it takes some effort to get there but is well worth the effort. You can take the train from Waterloo station. You can also take the tube to Richmond (the District line) and then take the R68 bus to Hampton Court. I recommend arriving early and you will definitely want to stay the entire day. If you take the tube, spend the evening in quaint Richmond. There is an abundance of shopping, dining and entertainment. On a nice day you can take a stroll along the river.

Admission is 10.50 GBP. You can also buy a combined Tower of London / Hampton Court ticket, which I recommend as the Tower is my other favorite.

Where else can you see London in all its glory at 450 feet in the air? The Eye is the highest observation wheel in the world and took seven years to build (a little late, if you remember). It was built to commemorate the new Millenium and represents the turning of time: celebrating London's past and looking forward to the future.

After taking the 30 minute flight I can truly say it offers a breathtaking view of the city. You ride in one of the 32 capsules. The capsules are big enough so you can walk around and get the view in different directions.

If you are going to take the flight, book ahead at www.londoneye.com. Arrive about half an hour early and bring lots of film.