Inside this hybrid of 1960s concrete and neo-classical architecture lurks 8,000 square metres of public display space spread over three floors.
The museum sitting next to the Botanic Gardens contains everything from the first mummy to be exhibited outside Egypt to collections of birds, insects, molluscs, marine invertebrates, flowering plants, algae, and lichens as well as an archive of books and manuscripts relating to Irish natural history. In the late 1980s and the early 1990s it had a permanent exhibition on dinosaurs, which has since been scaled back. There is also a collection of unusual rock crystals and the top-floor gallery displays paintings by British and Irish artists. Glass making in Ireland, steam engines, international fashions in clothes and the living sea are all covered.
We were interested in the exhibits on Treasures of the Armada. In September 1588 up to 24 ships of the Spanish Armada were wrecked on the coast of Ireland, with heavy loss of life but some made it ashore. This caused alarm to the government of Queen Elizabeth I of England. It put most of the survivors to death, with the rest fleeing to the safe haven of Scotland. A savage response certainly but if they had landed in England many of its inhabitants would have suffered a similar fate. Gleaming collection of gold coins, and gold and silver jewellery from a ship salvaged off the Giant's Causeway were on display.
The museum houses an impressive art collection including art from the 17th century to present day with paintings by Gainsborough, Turner, Reynolds and Irish artists Stanley Spencer, John Lavery and a 12ft high canvas of St Christopher by the 17th century Flemish master Jacob Jordaens and a 12ft wide ‘veil painting’ by the post-war American artist Morris Louis. There are also displays of sculpture, furniture, fashion, textiles, silver and metalwork, jewellery, pottery and porcelain, glass, dolls and toys.
The museum also offers some great historical exhibits. The most notable being the exhibition Conflict: The Irish at War, which examines the history of warfare in Ireland from the arrival of the first settlers 10,000 years ago to the present day. This story is presented through a series of ‘snapshots’ focusing on periods and events, and illustrated using objects from the collections in the museum, with a few borrowed from other institutions and private individuals. This exhibit gives a good overview of the recent 'troubles' in Northern Ireland.
On the ground floor there was a jungle exhibition with a real python, a real tarantula, some slimy frogs and stick insects for you to pet.
The museum contains a little bit of everything, and loads for children to see, including a deep sea show, and loads of life-size stuffed snakes, birds and animals, the most impressive being a couple of roebucks, a polar bear and a vulture.
A well-stocked gift shop and a café serving some of the city's best apple cake and fresh cream completes the picture. Admission is free!
by Drever on September 12, 2006
Ulster Museum
Stranmillis Road Belfast, Northern Ireland BT9 5AB
+44 28 9038 3000