Family Holidays in St Ives (Kernow By's Vyken)

Where I spend my family holidays!

My family and I have, after years of trying to find other special places, decided that you cannot beat the wonderful little town of St Ives on the North Cornish Coast. Year after year when we have gone somewhere different, we always turn around and say we wish we were back in Cornwall.

I first arrived here for my brother in law’s wedding a decade ago. I got off the bus with the sweeping harbour beneath, despite it being October and sodding down with rain, I knew almost immediately I was going to love this place.

Ten years on, it has developed and become much more upmarket. The restaurants have become more expensive, and accommodation prices have gone through the roof. However we still end up paying and are now discussing retirement here.

We rent a property on the Wharf, with the harbour immediately below our living room window. We are in effect in a time share, and have to book the same week a year in advance. If you want to rent out of season there are still good properties to be had on a weekly basis. See www.stivesholidays.com.

Quick Tips:

Despite the increasing choice of over expensive restaurants, you can always rely on the good old pasty. Try a Steak and Silton with a pint of 'Really Fowl Scrumpy' (yes its really called that,) there are many vendors on the Wharf. But beware the seagulls who are experts in seizing these direct from your hand as you walk down the street. They also love pizza and chips with ice cream for dessert.

Good surfing and boarding from Porthmeor Beach, and there are a number of surk schools to help you. Most people invest in wet suits as the water is very cold even in summer. There are a wide variety of suppliers and a 'shortie' will set you back around £50.00.

Hayle Towans offer the best beaches (non surfing) you can even sandboard down the extensive dunes.

The unique light conditions offer wonderful painting opportunities, and the town is full of art galleries. The most famous the Hepworth and the Tate are accessible on a same day ticket.

Good twitching (bird watching) can be found around Hayle Estuary and an RSPB reserve has been established. Also visit Paradise Park a high quality bird zoo, with regular family friendly displays.

Best Way To Get Around:

The bus service here is actually quite efficient and you can get by. Rail is expensive and inconvenient.

It really is worth the long drive if you can, but bear in mind the awful car parking situation here, which is in effect a twenty minute walk up a hill to the long stay car park. (£25.00 per week)

Alternatively book Harrys Safari for a great day out, see separate review.

Buses to outlying attractions can be organised by the efficient Oates Travel. www.oatestravel.co.uk

One of the St Ives top three eateries, a quirky Bistro with a contemporary musical choice drifting in the air over candlelit tables. The Bistro is surrounded by original artworks, completing the effect.

The menu itself is chalked onto a large blackboard. Imaginative at first but as I walked past daily I noticed the same daily specials was in fact the same menu the whole week long.

There are two sittings at 7pm and 9. We plummeted for the latter and service was initially smooth. I had the King Prawns on the shell which were delicious and set me up nicely for the main course of Hake. The mains were however a great disappointment. The fish was well cooked and flavoursome, but the vegetable side was undercooked and did not seem to match the strong fish flavour at all.

As the waitress enquired as to our thoughts we mentioned this and she became embarrassed and disappeared without comment. We finished with a cheese plate which was most acceptable.

Much confusion arose over the bill with our table being the proud recipient of £40 cash in change, which belonged to the table opposite.

All in all for the reviews and atmosphere, this was a considerable disappointment.

This is the top-end (literally) of dining in St Ives, and reservations are essential, especially as the venue has been the subject of a recent TV series.

You can eat indoors with fabulous views of the town or outdoors on the patio. It was a beautiful evening when we booked, but sadly on the night a cold forceful wind was blowing, and despite the best attentions of the staff, with blankets and heaters, it was still a challenge.

For starters we had lobster ravioli and crab salad (delicious). My wife tucked into turbot in a vermouth sauce with caviar for mains, whilst I had sea bass with crab cakes. It was all delicious, you simply couldn't fault it. Check the whole menu here www.porthminstercafe.co.uk/pm_home.htm

It is of course very expensive, and as we passed the £100 mark we dipped on dessert and picked up some sweeties on the way home to have with our coffee.

The service was caring, and we loved the ambiance of the whole establishment. We do not normally eat at this price level and despite the weather we throughly enjoyed it. A real treat!

Allow £60 per head for a 3-course meal with wine and coffee.

Busy family eatery, with fast well-meaning service. Located on the wharf and with good views over the harbour, the venue offers a wide range of popular family nosh. (Thats English for hearty, unadventurous eating.)

The food is hit and miss. My wife had haddock and chips which was crisp and delicious. Sadly my fish pie was very poor, and would have benefited from some fish in amongst the rather sad portion of flavoured potato which was offered. My youngest settled for pizza which he enjoyed.

Starters and dessert were good, however. Allow £25 per head (3 courses, wine and coffee) I was amused by the comments card afterwards, despite leaving my email I am still awaiting feedback. A useful loyalty card scheme exists.

Here's a must. Take a full day Harry Safari (from around £30 per head) and gain a locals eye view on the immediate area. Harry will take you to places you cannot get to any other way than by car and offer you a local prospective into the deal.

Harry has a lifetime history of this area and can route out sights and sounds simply off the tourist map to others. He is a story teller and musician to boot.

Private tours can also be organised for a reasonable price. An essential day especially for first time visitors.

Call him on 0845 6445940 for a quotation

Here is brief walking tour starting from the 'Sloop Inn' (Crowded, Ale average) on the Wharf, up Fore Street and into town.

'The Cornish Bakehouse' offers a wide selection of pies and pasties and is good value. 'The Sea Food Cafe' is, despite its name, an expensive restaurant without sea views, poor service, not recommended. 'The Fore Street Deli' open 8am - 8pm is a good solid local Delicatessen and can arrange deliveries prior to your arrival in the town. For alternative jewelery visit 'Gauge'. Check out some of Stephen Websters' designs, Rock N Roll excess at its finest. Next door John Miller offers some fine very original local art.'The Castle Pub' is much improved and has cask ales on stillage, best in town. 'Presto' offer the most unique choice of pasties, with seafood and dessert ones distinguishing this choice. 'Off the Beaten Track' is probably the best service for a watersports novice, very helpful. Finally leaving Fore street 'The Painted Bird' sells Cornish Celtic souvenirs alongside a wide selection of new age trinkets. We have spent a fortune in here over the years.

Into the High Street 'The Golden Lion' is under new management and now has a pleasant touch of Ulster in the nice, very reasonable menu. Friendly bar staff and good ales make this a suitable rival to The Castle. Note the backbar has a good selection of Rock Music. 'Oates Travel' offer a selection of day trips all over Cornwall. Opposite its more pasties at 'Pengenna', where they are made on the premises in full view of the passing trade. Sadly they are disappointing. 'Lanhams' have a superior choice of rental accommodations. Expensive but if you can afford it, it has the best choice. The other pub here is the 'Queens Hotel', a large bar with a huge TV screen. Best choice for Sports Telly.

Back on the seafront Alba fish restaurant is an award winner, but looked a little dull to us. Hub is a trendy enthusiastic cocktail bar at London prices. The Lifeboat Inn remains the locals choice here, flagstone floors and very average real ales. The Harbour Pool Club is open to visitors for a weekly fee. Excellent facilities for snooker and pool, large friendly bar with great views, no ale. Pick of the eating here is the Ocean Grill, superb fish, served with a smile and worth the little extra, this cracking restaurant should soon be featuring in the best ofs.