The Pagan Pleasures of Rome

Only Rome can resist Rome.
- Pierre Corneille, French playwright (1606-84)

Corneille was talking in a political context, but his words about the Eternal City are true enough. Rome is irresistible. Despite the drawbacks- the beggars, the pickpockets, the chaotic traffic, the fact that not too many people speak English. I’ve seen cleaner, greener, safer, more polite cities in Europe- but they lack the virility and the unabashed charm of Rome. Part of that charm, of course, is in the fact that Rome is so old- it’s been around for literally thousands of years, and there are plenty of attractions that stand testimony to the city’s history. The colossal Colosseum, with the adjoining Arch of Constantine and the sprawling Forum Romanum, crowded with ruined temples, heads the list for many tourists. Equally historic is the Palatine Hill, the Circus Maximus, and the 100 foot high Trajan’s Column- definitely one of the most awesome friezes in the world.

But the history of Rome would be incomplete without the immense flowering of art and architecture during the Renaissance. And there’s ample evidence of this period too- in the many piazzas and churches of Rome. Of particular note are churches like the Pantheon (originally a pagan temple- which it still resembles on the outside), Santa Maria Maggiore, and San Pietro Ad Vincula.

The Vatican City, lying on the left bank of the Tiber, is a nation in itself- but shares a lot in common with Rome. Do set aside at least a day to see the splendid Basilica Di San Pietro and the Musei Vaticani. Both are huge- unbelievably huge- and merit more than a cursory whirlwind tour.

And when you find yourself tired and footsore from wandering around, sit for a while on a stone bench. Watch the pigeons pecking at grain scattered on a cobbled street. Enjoy a refreshing gelati, or browse through watercolours depicting the Spanish Steps in all their glory. Admire the flower-filled balconies of yellow-painted houses (none of them more than four or five stories high, since by law no building in Rome may be taller than the dome of San Pietro). Walk along a street, with your shoulders brushed by the white, pink, and crimson blooms of the oleander trees.

And yes, do throw a coin in the Fontana di Trevi- maybe (as we’re hoping!), you’ll be lucky enough to return to Rome.

Quick Tips:

The most useful piece of advice we got was short and sweet: watch your wallet. Our relatives said it, our guidebooks said it, even the receptionist at the Hotel Delle Muse said it. Rome is notorious for its extremely nimble-fingered pickpockets. We, in fact, were witness to an incident where an elderly Asian gentleman’s wallet was picked, right in front of our eyes, on the Metro. The culprit was a pre-teen, who vociferously protested her innocence when confronted: unfortunately for her, the wallet fell out of her shirt when someone grabbed her. The incident unnerved us so much we started avoiding the Metro after that.

The method we devised for protecting ourselves from pickpockets was easy enough: we deposited all our money in the hotel’s safe and everyday took out only a certain amount- just enough for the day’s travelling, sightseeing, and food. This, too, was kept in a wallet which was then shoved deep down in the recesses of a heavily zipped bag. Anyone who tried getting at that would need to do a lot of manoeuvring!

Other than that, there are a few other things you should keep in mind:

1. Bargaining is expected when buying souvenirs from the many roadside stalls. Prices can be very inflated. Please don’t succumb to the temptation to buy the cheap fake `designer’ bags sold on pavements: the Italian police is trying desperately to stop this practice.

2. If you’re visiting a church (or the Musei Vaticani- which, since it contains the Sistine Chapel, is also religious in nature to some extent), go well-clad. In San Pietro and the Musei Vaticani there are special officers on duty to ensure that everybody follows the dress code: knees and shoulders must be covered, whether you’re male or female.

3. Carry a good guidebook. There’s a lot of interesting history behind many of Rome’s top attractions, and since most of them do not have any signs in English, you’re likely to miss out on some great experiences if you don’t understand Italian.

4. Set aside a couple of hours for simply stretching out and soaking up the atmosphere- Rome is made for serendipity!

Best Way To Get Around:

The central train station at Rome, the Stazione Termini, forms the focal point for much of Rome’s transport. Trains to and from Rome pass through; so do the trains of the city’s local underground, the Metro. There’s a large bus terminal outside, and you’ll find frequent buses to just about every quarter of the city here.

Train and bus fares are simple enough: pay €1 per person, and you’re entitled to one trip on either the Metro or on a bus, as long as you do the trip within 75 minutes of getting the ticket stamped. Much more economical is the three-day pass, for €11 per person, which entitles you to unlimited travel on the Metro and on all bus routes. The pass can be bought at the Stazione Termini bus station, or (we found this much more convenient) at most tobacco shops, locally known as tabachi.

The Metro is convenient if you’re just concentrating on the main sights, since Metro stops coincide with Rome’s biggest attractions: the Vatican, the Colosseum, the Circus Maximus, Santa Maria Maggiore. Unfortunately, many trains are extremely dirty. We travelled in some where the windows had been so completely covered by spray-painted graffiti that we couldn’t see through them. Trains also get very crowded, which increases your chances of getting robbed. The buses are what I would recommend- they tend to be less crowded and cleaner than the Metro. And the routes extend to well beyond the area covered by the Metro.

A lot of the best sights in Rome lie very close to each other, so if you like walking, do bring your walking shoes and a good map. We planned most of our touring in such a way that we’d get to an area in the late morning, then spend the rest of the day walking around and exploring it.
Surprisingly enough, Rome seems to go to sleep pretty early. The Underground closes by 11.30, buses stop at midnight, and by that time, taxis are few and far between too. Aim to get back to your hotel well in time if you don’t have your own transport.

We arrived at the Hotel Delle Muse after an early flight, tired and bleary-eyed and wondering what it would be like. Our first glimpse of the entrance- whitewashed, mundane, single-storeyed and looking like a shop- was disappointing. But we had bookings, and we didn’t have the stamina to go looking for another hotel.

So of course we went in- and ended up spending three nights in one of the most pleasant hotels we stayed in through our Europe trip. The receptionist, a man in a smart suit, was brisk and efficient and spoke English well. He checked us in, handed us a map of Rome (gratis), gave us a verbal list of do’s and don’ts for the hotel (and Rome in general- of which "Beware of pickpockets" was the best piece of advice), and had us escorted upstairs to our room. All within less than five minutes of our arrival.

Our room was on the second floor, and though it wasn’t large, it was comfortable and spotlessly clean. A painting (incongruously enough of Paris) hung above the double bed. The bed was flanked by bedside tables with bright lamps- for which I was grateful, since I love reading in bed. There was a dressing table with a chair, a luggage rack, a decent-sized wardrobe, a tiny TV, and a large window with quaint wooden shutters. The bathroom, though small, was clean and came with an abundance of crisp white towels.

We decided to have lunch at the hotel itself, and were directed out into a gravelled yard, topped with a trellis roof covered with creepers. The sunlight filtering through the leaves dappled the tables and chairs in a dozen hues of green and yellow, and a few sparrows hopped about, looking for crumbs. Bliss.

Our alfresco lunch was delicious- Tarun had a grilled beefsteak with roast potatoes, I a beefsteak with green peppercorns, along with a green salad. We shared a carafe of a lovely red wine. The waiter, a handsome man with greying hair and a completely wacky sense of humour, met us again the next morning at breakfast, when Tarun was struggling to get us a cappuccino each from the coffee machine at the buffet. "You want the cappuccino today or next year?" he ribbed Tarun, and then took over, bringing us some really great coffee. Breakfast on the whole was substantial: scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, cakes, jam tarts, grapefruit, juice, and crème caramel.

Access to the Internet was free, so Tarun spent time every evening checking his mail in the lobby. The hotel also offered individual safes, so we deposited our passports and most of our money before stepping out for the day. Very convenient.

Final verdict: the Hotel Delle Muse is a great place to stay. Comfy, friendly, easily accessible (take bus number 360 from Stazione Termini), and excellent value for money- we paid just €75 per night.

We’d passed by Nanà on our way to and from Trevi a couple of times, and one afternoon, we finally decided to go on in and have lunch at this attractive restaurant. Like many of the eateries in Rome, Nanà too divides itself into two parts: an indoor restaurant and an outdoor one, complete with garden umbrellas, pretty round tables and wooden trellises covered with flowering creepers. It was a warm day, so we opted to sit out. A waiter led us to a table right next to the `fence’- draped in a creeper with pretty star-shaped white flowers. We were handed our menus (thankfully in both English as well as Italian), and left to ourselves to figure out what we wanted to order.

Nanà has a fairly wide range of items to offer, ranging from pastas to main courses including Roman specialties in fish, poultry, beef, pork and more. After much thought, we finally settled on something that sounded nice: Tarun chose a Pacheri alla Ragù, while I opted for a Pesce Azzurro. With that, we ordered bread- good crusty Italian rolls- and a carafe of the house wine, a beautifully dry white. Nanà, by the way, boasts of a very good cellar- so if you like wine, this restaurant might do with some checking out.

Our food, when it came, was a little inconsistent. My Pesce Azzurro- grilled fish served with a crisp green salad on the side- was absolutely delicious. The fish was tender and flaky, the skin grilled to a crisp, just the way I like it. The juices, slightly oily and faintly salt, were perfect with the bread. Poor Tarun, unfortunately, didn’t have as good an experience with his Pacheri alla Ragù- the sauce was just too overwhelmingly tomato; there wasn’t a trace of meat in it. Rather disappointing.

If it hadn’t been for the substandard ragù, I’d have rated Nanà 10 on 10. The service is friendly without being obtrusive; the waiters speak English; the food is good; and the ambience is beautifully Rome- romantic, lovely, unintimidating. It’s slightly on the expensive side- we paid just over €30 for our meal- but it’s well worth it. Just give the ragù a miss!

By the time our second evening in Rome rolled around, we’d realised that the area around Fontana di Trevi had an abundance of restaurants. The closer we got to the famed fountain, the more expensive they were, but we guessed that a recce in the vicinity would probably yield something affordable.

We weren’t mistaken- for we found, tucked away in a lane just short of the Trevi, a lovely little restaurant called Hostaria Romana. The Hostaria Romana was nothing short of serendipity- a chance glance towards the left, and there was a beckoning golden light streaming out of the windows, illuminating what looked to be a very contented crowd of diners. We went and checked out the menu (written up in English and Italian, and affixed to the outer wall of the restaurant). It sounded good- and not vastly exorbitant. So in we went.

The door opened into a place of bustle, merry chatter, the clatter of dishes, the swish of napkins flying as waiters scurried past. A narrow vestibule, about four feet in length, extended from the door, before spreading out on both sides into the restaurant. In front of us, a few steps led down into another space, equally jam-packed with diners. The walls in the lower room were covered with graffiti scribbled by appreciative patrons.

After a wait of about fifteen minutes, we were finally led to a table. Squeezing our way between the adjoining tables, we sat down, and were almost immediately handed our menus- by a greying and rotund waiter who sang as he worked. He took our order, repeated it back to us, served us, got us our bill- and uttered everything in a somewhat offkey, singsong voice.

But the food. Ah, the food. Tarun ordered a huge portion of roast suckling pig, deliciously crisp on the outside, and juicy. I decided to opt for a Roman specialty- osso buco. I’ve had osso buco before, but never so wonderful. The veal was exquisitely cooked: moist and tender, with the sauce, peas and mushrooms providing the perfect balance to the richness of the meat itself. Tarun’s order came with a side of roast potatoes and gravy; in addition, we got a bread basket full of fresh rolls. And- as if that wasn’t enough- we got starters, on the house. These consisted of crisp golden potato croquettes, and suppli- leftover risotto rolled around a cube of mozzarella and then fried, so the cheese melts into the most irresistibly chewy strands. Yum!

This being Italy (and we being addicted to wine!), we ordered a carafe of red wine to go with our meal. By the time we finished, we were so full, we had difficulty making our way to the door.

Final analysis: great place. Friendly, relaxed, affordable (we spent €34 for our feast), and the food- with lots of classic pasta dishes, seafood, and a range of meat and poultry- is awesome. And there’s live entertainment too- if the singing steward happens to be serving you.

Tarun’s cousin in London had given us a good guidebook to Rome, and it contained an artist’s depiction of the Forum Romanum in its heyday. I still remember the picture: soaring columns, magnificent façades, wide steps leading up to temples to virtually every Roman god and goddess. It must have been a memorable sight, and even though only its ruins remain now, it’s still one of Rome’s most impressive areas.

We walked from the Colosseum, past the intricately carved Arch of Constantine, up the hill to the Forum Romanum. The entrance to the Forum is yet another arch- the Arch of Titus, not quite as ornate as that of Constantine, but richly carved nevertheless. The Arch of Titus stands more or less at the top of a low hill, and the path beyond it dips into a shallow, wide bowl across which spreads the Forum. The path is dusty, stony in places, and bordered by trees and shrubs. When we arrived, in the late afternoon, a few crows were hopping about among fallen blocks of marble. Atop some of the columns sat roosting gulls.

Paths lead here and there, off to the left and the right, to each of the monuments in the Forum. We checked out some of them, reading diligently from our guidebook (you’ll need one, unless you’re part of a guided tour- there are no signs to say what the ruins are, or how they’re significant). The best-preserved of the monuments is the imposing Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, a huge building with massive columns; it dominates the right side of the Forum as you walk away from the Arch of Titus. Next to the Temple is another interesting temple, this one dedicated to one of the two legendary founders of Rome: the Temple of Romulus. It’s an unusual round building.

Further on, to the left stand three slender columns- all that remains of what was once the Temple of Vesta. A sacred fire used to be kept burning here in ancient Rome by the Vestal Virgins, the much respected maiden priestesses of the goddess Vesta. Similar to the Temple of Vesta is another set of white marble columns- not quite so elegant, but again on the left. These are the ruins of the Temple of Castor and Pollux, and opposite the temple is an opening into the Cloaca Maxima, the largest sewer in Rome. Beyond the temple, also on the left, are the broad steps of the Basilica of Julius Caesar, a temple built by Augustus Caesar to honour Julius.

Climbing up a slope, we came to the other end of the Forum Romanum- past the ruined Temple of Saturn, and up to the stunningly ornate and well-preserved Arch of Septimus Severus. Our walk through the Forum took us a leisurely hour, and by the end of it, we were truly impressed. This, like the Colosseum, is something that has to be experienced to be believed.

We’d decided to visit the sights of Rome in a somewhat chronological order, so the Colosseum ended up being the first on the list. It may not be the oldest building in Rome, but it’s definitely the largest and one of the most impressive relics of ancient Rome.

We joined a long but mercifully fast-moving queue that snaked its way along a dark and gloomy passage, the outermost circular gallery at the foot of the Colosseum. Scattered about were blocks of white stone, some of them with carving eroded over time. We bought our tickets (€11 per person; students, senior citizens and citizens of the EU pay half the price) and made our way up a stone staircase to the first of the circular levels that look out over the vast elliptical expanse of the Colosseum.

The view was great, but we realised it would be certainly better the higher we climbed; so we toiled up another flight of stairs, and then yet another. We still weren’t at the top, but we didn’t have the stamina to ascend any further, and anyway, the view was quite awesome, thank you.

It really takes some getting used to the sheer size of the Colosseum. It was built originally to accommodate 80,000 people (the emperor Vespasian began its construction in 72 AD, and his son Titus completed it eight years later), and just standing along the railing, looking down into it, we could well imagine what it must have been like around two thousand years ago. The seats that accommodated the different strata of society- the patricians, the plebs, and whatnot- stretch right round in a dizzying panorama of columns, arches and crumbling stone.

Tier upon tier of galleries spread away in concentric circles from around and up the central arena.

Our initial reaction on seeing the arena was puzzlement: instead of being flat, it was divided up into cells. Rows of stone walls cut across the arena, and at one end were partially covered by a flat wooden `stage’. We later discovered that the cells below were used to house wild animals, slaves, and stage props used in the entertainment provided at the Colosseum. Until the Colosseum finally became more or less a ruin (in the 6th century, after being damaged by fire and earthquake), games, gladiatorial combat and other gruesome entertainment was provided atop a stage that covered the cells. Special hoists were used to shove animals, slaves and props up on to the stage as and when required.

The Colosseum has since changed - a small church was established in the building during the Middle Ages. Later, in the mid-18th century, Pope Benedict XIV consecrated it and declared it sanctified by the blood of the Christians who’d been executed in the Colosseum.

But all the crucifixes, the benedictions and the annual processions led through the Colosseum on Good Friday don’t really disguise the fact that this, in fact, is- and always will be- a stark reminder of pagan Rome. Vicious perhaps, gruesome and gory; but very impressive.

We had the good fortune to visit Rome during a summer that was particularly hot. Good, I say, because it provided ample excuses for indulging ourselves most unashamedly—eating gelati every few hours! Not that gelati need an excuse, of course. Rome’s most famous iced dessert is so completely and utterly gorgeous, anyone with a sweet tooth would succumb to the temptation.

Gelaterias, big and small, good and bad, are scattered across the length and breadth of Rome. Many are mere counters (the vans you’ll find outside major sights like the Colosseum or the Musei Vaticani are examples of this). They often have just a handful of flavours to choose from: hazelnut, chocolate, lemon, maybe a couple of others. Larger Gelaterias- which actually concentrate on gelati, rather than offering them up as a second thought- usually have about fifteen or twenty flavours, more if you’re lucky enough to find a really fancy one.

Gelato is traditionally made from a mix of sugar, milk and flavourings such as fruit, nuts, chocolate, coffee- whatever. There is, in traditional gelati, no cream, and only about 35% air, which is why it’s a `dense’ dessert. The gelaterias of Rome offer a fairly wide range of gelati, from traditional to ones that are based on yoghurt, soymilk, or even cream.

During our sojourn in Rome, we sampled gelati at a number of places. Some were passable, some were good, and some were simply great. The three I’d recommend are:

Canova, on the road that connects the Basilica of San Pietro to Castel Sant’ Angelo. If you’re walking towards the castle, the gelateria is on your left. It has a fairly wide range of gelati, including some deliciously refreshing fruit flavours. I had a lovely deep pink sottobosco- a mix of wild berries. This was one of the most expensive gelaterias we sampled, though: two scoops cost €3.

Gelateria Della Palma, on Via Del Lavatore (near the Fontana Trevi) is also worth a visit. They have lots of different flavours too, and the one I had- banana- was awesome. Slightly cheaper than Canova (two scoops cost €2.50).

Blue Ice, also near Trevi- if you’re facing the fountain, turn left and walk down the street- you’ll reach Blue Ice in a couple of minutes. Blue Ice became our favourite place, and for many reasons: the girls who run it are efficient and friendly, the gelati are relatively cheap (€2 for two scoops; you can pay up to €5 if you want extras like nuts, chocolate chips, and other trimmings); and the gelati- which includes a yoghurt section and a soymilk section- are hard to beat. They have variations of coffee and chocolate, along with all-time favourites like tiramisu, lemon, hazelnut, strawberry, and plenty of other fruit-based gelati, such as watermelon, melon, kiwi, papaya and passionfruit, mango, grapefruit, green apple, and coconut. Their gelati were so irresistible that it became a ritual for us to go to Trevi every evening just to end the day with a gelato from Blue Ice.