Rick's Guide to Cabo San Lucas & San Jose del Cabo

We've been trying to get to Los Cabos ("The Capes") for a couple of years, but flying that far from Baltimore just seemed to eat up too much travel time for the 4-day free stay (on Hilton points) we had planned.

But the United (also free on points) schedule gods finally smiled on us and arranged a schedule that got us into Cabo at noon (you DON'T want to know when we had to get to BWI airport to arrange that little trick).

Hilton didn't have award stays available during the high season, so we ended up going in August. Why, you might ask, would we go to a resort known for 95-degree summer weather in August? Because we were having the same weather back home, and if it's going to be that hot, I'd rather be at the beach!

But, frankly, the heat didn't bother us. We're old hands (emphasis on "old") at travel in Mexico, and you learn some tricks. One is SHADE. Find it! Carry it! Make it your friend! Shade is worth about 20 degrees.

Second is the sea breeze! Standing in the sun at our beachfront hotel, on a 95-degree day, felt like 105 degrees. Standing in the shade felt like 85 degrees. Standing in the sun in San Jose del Cabo (about 1 mile inland) felt like 135 degrees!

So find the shade. Find the beach. Find the air-conditioning. Stay there.

But no matter what, GO TO CABO! In spite of it being entirely populated by Americans (as opposed to the Mexican Caribbean resorts, which are distinctly international, mostly European, in flavor), Cabo was a treat. The water is SO BLUE! The local people are polite to a fault. The shopping is great. The food is TREMENDOUS. Water sports everywhere. And a natural environment (dry, dusty, mountainous) that seems like another planet.

Whatever you do, GET OUT ON THE WATER! We took a sunset cruise on the Tropicat (see review) and had a bonus helping of a cluster of whales (which are not supposed to be out there in August). Mind-blowing and eye-opening.

We're going back!

Quick Tips:

There are actually three separate venues in "Los Cabos." All three are on the southernmost tip of the Baja California peninsula, with the Sea of Cortez on the east and the Pacific on the west.

Cabo San Lucas, on the western end, closest to El Arco (the Arch), is the rock 'n' roll town. Fronted by the Marina with world-class sport fishing (and world-class tournaments), it is also the "Cabo" you'll see on MTV Spring Break. Loud, raucous, dangerous, and absolutely aimed at the under-25 crowd.

San Jose del Cabo, about 20 miles east, is a quieter town, with some upscale shops and restaurants, but mostly the place where local people (who work in the resorts) live. The airport is on the San Jose del Cabo end.

Between the two is a four-lane "highway" (no shoulders) that the locals, plus trucks, buses, and taxis, navigate with reckless disregard for any published rules of the road. Drive at your own risk. We didn't this time, but we'll chance it on our return.

We found the shopping about equal in both towns, but our favorite restaurant (Mi Casa) was in Cabo San Lucas. There is a very upscale shopping area in the Palmilla area (home to the ultra-luxe "One and Only Palmilla") that is certainly worth a look. But it is clearly intended for wealthy Norte Americanos who are furnishing zillion-dollar homes in the Cabo area.

Most of the beaches in the area are not safe for swimming. The pacific side is extremely rough, and the Sea of Cortez side has a wicked undertow. There are no lifeguards on any beach, so you literally take your life in your hands if you go swimming.

Our hotel (The Hilton) built a rock jetty that creates a safe swimming area. I believe they've done the same thing at two other resorts. And the Santa Maria area is a protected "bahia" (bay) that is reasonably safe. But beyond that, beware!

Best Way To Get Around:

I'd read that ground transportation at the San Jose del Cabo (SJC) airport was a nightmare, so I asked the hotel to book a private car for . That was a good decision, because the taxi ride from the airport to the hotel would have been upwards of , providing we could have found a taxi.

The return trip, by the way, was only . (I guess the ground sharks take advantage of island "newbies" arriving at the airport, but I figure there is real competition for the return). We shared with another couple from the Hilton, so it only cost us .

The Hilton provided a private Mercedes bus running the circuit from the hotel to San Jose del Cabo and back, and from the Hotel to Cabo San Lucas and back. More trips to Cabo San Lucas because more people want to go there. But it's a good deal for per day per person, unlimited use (in other words, you can go to San Jose in the morning and come back to the hotel early afternoon, swim a bit, and go down to Cabo San Lucas in the evening and come back late at night--all for ).

BUT - you are at the mercy of the bus schedule, and it may not leave and return when you want. On at least two occasions, we took the bus to town and took a taxi back.

Sooooo, next time we go to Los Cabos (and we are definitely going back!), I'll rent a car. I do it in Guadalajara, in Cancun, and in Cozumel. So there's no reason not to do it in Cabo. But remember to check with your insurance company before you leave - they probably do NOT cover you for car rentals in Mexico, and you will definitely want to get the CDW coverage from the rental car company.

If you take a taxi and are not comfortable negotiating in Spanish (the drivers often do not speak English, particularly in San Jose del Cabo), the best way to settle on a price is to hold the money in your hand, point to it, and say your destination. In our case, it was 200 pesos () from San Jose to the Hilton, and 350 pesos () from Cabo San Lucas to the Hilton. The Hilton is closer to San Jose than to Cabo San Lucas.

My wife and I came to Los Cabos for a mini-vacation to celebrate our 35th anniversary. Flying down on United Points and staying at the Hilton on Points, it was a marvelous vacation. And our intended exit day was August 31, JUST AHEAD OF HURRICANE JOHN!!!!

But during the short 4-night stay, we discovered a wonderful beach resort that ranks as one of the best we've ever stayed at, and certainly one of the top Hilton locations ever!

This was the resort's slow season, as evidenced by the dark rooms we saw looking up at the resort from the pool. It appeared to be only about 1/2 to 2/3 full. And that probably explained why the staff upgraded my free room to a junior suite because it was our anniversary. They also sent a bottle of champagne, a fruit plate, and a cheese plate.

Our room, #6021, was on the top floor in the middle of the resort, facing the pool and the beach. Frankly, I don't think there's a bad room in the entire resort, but I did notice that the lower rooms (below the 4th floor) had palm trees obstructing their view. So ask for a room on the 5th or 6th floor.

The infinity pool was a wonder. Not only did the water appear to merge with the sky, but hanging out at the edge facing the beach was an all-day entertainment treat!

The Hacienda restaurant (on the second level) serves a nice buffet or menu breakfast, a better lunch, and a sumptuous Mexican dinner.

Fenicia (on the first level) is the fancy restaurant, and although we didn't eat there, the dinner menu looked inviting.

The lobby bar (lobby level - third level) has a terrific happy hour with free, yummy hors d'oeuvres and featured drinks. And if you're outside, they don't mind if you crank up a Cuban stogie (available at the hotel's shop and at the lobby bar).

The staff throughout the hotel is friendly, well-spoken in English, and extremely willing to please.

And it should be noted that while many of the Cabo area resorts ignored the coming hurricane (and did not inform the guests of the impending danger), the Hilton made a point to let every guest know the hurricane was on its way and helped guests make arrangements to get out safely. They actually told everybody to leave!

Great Place. We're going back!

Our favorite restaurant in Cabo. We went twice in only 4 nights! With our many trips to Mexico, this was some of the finest local cuisine we have tasted.

The menu of Mexican specialties is all you need to see. I generally don't order a Mole. I know it's the greatest Mexican dish in the world (!!!!), but I usually find the flavor so deep as to almost be suffocating.

But the "Manchamanteles" sounded great and tasted even better—Mole, pork, chicken and fruit (!!!!!). It was lighter than most moles I've had, but no less flavorful (if that makes any sense).

My wife got an astonishing fresh Sea Bass one night, and a whole local lobster the second night (yes, we went twice!). On the second visit, I ordered an old stand-by that usually demonstrates the skill of the chef - Steak Tampiquena (skirt steak with Mexican trimmings). Also delicious!

Strolling mariachi's plus a sketch artists, and VERY eclectic furnishings make Mi Case the place YOU MUST TRY in Cabo San Lucas.

Oh, here's the Mexican speciality section of their menu:

El Manchamanteles de Morelia—Famous mole of chile guajillo & chile ancho with chicken & pork and lots fruit. Very tasty!

El Mole Poblano - Masterpiece of Mexican cuisine! Festful dish of chicken in a rich dark mole sauce of peppers, seed 7 spices ( approx. 35 ingredients) A feast for your palate!

El Chile en Nogada -A specialty dish to celebrate independence day. Poblano pepper stuffed with sauteed meats, served with a fresh walnut cream sauce. One Mexico's finest

La Cochinita Pibil -Famous dish from Yucatan. Shredded pork oven roasted in achiote served with spicy marinated red onions, called (Xnipec).

Las Carnitas de Michoacan -Succulent oven roasted pork, served with special beans, guacamole, cilantro, & onions

Los Tamales Bandera - Steamed tamales in colors of the flag.. Red: Filled with chicken in mole, green: shredded pork with tomatillo sauce; white: cheese & poblano strips

After we tried Mi Casa in Cabo San Lucas, we decided to give San Jose del Cabo's La Panta Antigua a try. It is owned by the same group that owns Mi Casa, and we intended to spend the day shopping in San Jose Del Cabo. It's a lovely place, with an open courtyard. But the evening was ruined by the FLIES!

We sat down at about 7pm on Tuesday, August 29, 2006. It was a hot day, but relatively cool breezes blew through the shaded courtyard. We were ready to have a lovely dinner for our 35th-anniversary vacation.

But shortly after we were seated, we were beset by dozens of flies! We were both swatting away, but to no avail, And our discomfort was ignored by the staff.

When I saw a fly sitting on my wife's fork as she raised it to her mouth (it flew away at the last minute), I'd had enough! I asked the waiter for help, and he turned on a large fan near our table (we were the only people seated in that section). The flies continued, with more waving of my arms. I guess the staff thought I was hailing a taxi, because they ignored me. After about 30 minutes, after my STRONG complaint, they seated us indoors in a smallish air-conditioned room (which they refer to as their "wine cellar").

By that point, we had both lost our appetites and paid for a $150 dinner we didn't eat or enjoy.

Why they didn't seat us indoors after our first complaint I'll never know. When I asked the senior waiter that question, he said, "We always have flies this time of year."

I contacted the management via email, and they have offered to refund my dinner bill. That's an honest response by them to a piece of terrible customer service.

They told me that, in the summer, when people call in for reservations, the restaurant recommends dinner after 8pm (because the air is hot and still before that). But the management also admitted that they should have handled our walk-in dinner better.

Maybe we'll give them another try next time we're in Cabo.

We arranged for this Sunset Jazz & Wine Cruise with our hotel before coming down to Cabo. We expected to see El Arco (The Arch) and a lovely, relaxing sunset for our last evening in Cabo. What we didn't expect were the whales!

In the face of the approaching hurricane (John), we sailed out of the port towards the open sea. El Arco was on the right just outside of port, and the captain lingered there for photographs (wonderful opportunity!) and to let everybody see the sea lions basking in the sun.

On the Sea of Cortez side of El Arco, the water is calm, and one of the folks on the cruise had been diving there the day before. He was mightily impressed by the variety of sea life, but not much in the way of coral (as we had previously seen in Cozumel). The Pacific side of the rocks is very rough - too much for scuba, snorkeling, or even swimming. And, as is the case everywhere in Los Cabos, there are no lifeguards. So don't even try to swim on the Pacific coast.

We sailed around the rocks under the watchful eyes of the pelicans perched high above us and headed west out into the Pacific. Along the coast, on that side, are a few resorts (which, thankfully, are prevented from spreading into El Arco by the rough terrain), and further along we saw some super-luxe homes high on the cliffs.

Between the clusters of homes and the newly built (and building) condos and planned communities, it's pretty rough and wild. But it's only a matter of time and money before the entire coastline resembles southern California.

As we headed further west, just before we turned to return to port, we all spotted a cluster of whales in the distance. The captain tried to get close with the engines quieted down, but every time we came within 50 yards of one of the beauties, the crowd started screaming and scared the whales away!

The crew was surprised to find whales in these waters in August (their primary migration period is in the winter). We guessed that they were getting out of the way of the approaching storm, but nobody knew for sure. And we didn't get close enough to identify the whales, although many are circulating pictures around to attempt that.

The cruise, abetted by copious amounts of wine, beer, mixed drinks, fruits, and cheeses, returned to port about 45 minutes after the scheduled time-and we were all grateful. That extra time was spend watching the whales-a completely unexpected pleasure.

The Tropicat Sunset Cruise, at $49 per person, is highly recommended. And it was a terrific way to end our all-too-short vacation!

This relatively sleepy town doesn't have the frantic pace of Cabo San Lucas, but the shopping is worth your time. And in particular, you want to leave at least 30 minutes for Sol Dorado (Blvd. Mijares No. 33-A), a store so amazing and exclusive that photographs are forbidden!

There is a second Sol Dorado at the Cabo Airport, in Terminal 3 (Delta, Alaska Air, United), but it is much smaller. As a place to get the last-minute gift, however, it can't be beat.

Another terrific store in San Jose is Veryka Art Gallery & Boutique (Blve. Mijares, #418 across from the Zocalo). It features astonishing arts and crafts, including the most expensive and ornate Day of the Dead pieces you'll ever see, created by Soula Moreno.

A second Veryka Gallery, virtually identical to the first, is at Plaza Bonita in Cabo San Lucas.

Try La Mina (Blvd. Mijares #33), set up to resemble a silver mine; Opal House (Blvd. Mijares & M. Doblado), with an astonishing collection of Mexican Fire Opals; the Cabo Wabo Boutique (Blvd. Mijares across from the Zocalo), with a wide selection of Cabo Wabo collectibles, hats, shirts and LOTS of Tequila (actually much more for sale than at the Cabo Wabo Cantina in Cabo San Lucas); and Bye Bye (Blvd. Mijares #27), featuring very good quality cotton clothing, especially men's shirts, all with the bittersweet "Bye Bye Cabo" logo...

Lots of places to grab a bite in San Jose del Cabo, of course. Stay away from La Panga Antigua (see review), but give a try to El Comal (La Case de Don Rodrigo, Blvd. Mijares), Hananero's (Plaza Mision, Blvd. Mijares), and especially Morgan's (M. Doblado & Hidalgo).

And the San Jose del Cabo Airport, as mentioned above, has a Sol Dorado store, a high-end jeweler, lots of souvenir shops, and yet another Cabo Wabo store.

Shopping in Cabo San Lucas is clearly designed for the serious (and temporary) tourist. With cruise ships arriving a few times a week, and hotel guests with a short time available for shopping (The Beach! The Bars!), the shopping is clustered around the Marina in Puerto Paraiso and Plaza Bonita, with a few shops in Plaza del Sol and Plaza Nautica, and along M. Hidalgo street.

Our bus from the Hilton dropped us off in front of Puerto Paraiso. It's a standard Norte Americana mall design, but the shops are clearly for the tourists (not the locals). And the prices are fixed - don't even attempt to bargain.

On the ground floor is a terrific Sergio Bustamente shop, featuring the artists ceramic sculpture, paper mache, furniture, bronze sculpture, and gold and silver jewelry. Terrific stuff, but expensive. We've been to the Bustamante shops in Cancun, at Las Hadas in Manzanillo (now closed), plus the original shop in Tlaquepaque in Guadalajara. The selection at Puerto Paraiso was terrific, and the prices were virtually list prices comparable to the other stores. There is another Bustamante shop in Plaza Bonita, with some additional items. So if you're a Bustamante fan, you need to check out both shops.

Also in Puerto Paraiso is a Harley dealership, with bikes, rentals, clothing, and accessories, plus a bar and grill. And lots of clothing and jewelry shops. What you won't find is typical Mexican souvenir shops here - the prices are too low and the rents are too high.

Plaza Bonita has, as mentioned above, the Bustamante shop, along with the local branch of Veryka - the terrific Art Gallery & Boutique that also has a shop in San Jose del Cabo, plus a few more clothing stores, and more in the way of typical Mexican shops (lower rents here, obviously).

For my money, the shopping in San Jose del Cabo was better, and in Las Tiendas de Palmilla, more diverse (but MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE - see separate review).

This is an upscale shopping area across the highway from the Palmilla residential and resort area (a bridge over the highway is the access to the shopping).

We were initially attracted because of one store: Antigua de Mexico, a branch of one of our favorite stores in the Tlaquepaque shopping zone in Guadalajara. Las Tiendas de Palmilla is described as a "lifestyle" center, meaning you better have an opulent lifestyle if you intend to shop here!

The Antigua de Mexico shop is considerably smaller than the original (which occupied much of a large home), but no less unique. It features the enormous ornately carved cabinets that are as big as a car, along with smaller furniture and accessories. All designed for furnishing that zillion-dollar home you're building in Los Cabos...

The other terrific shop is Artesania Magica, with beautifully painted chairs, cabinets, and unique (as in I've never seen them before) painted wooden theater seats (the kind with the flip-down seat). We saw one with Queen Elizabeth I on the front and Jimmy Hendrix on the back!

There's Pez Cordo, a "trendsetting" art gallery; a couple of high-end jewelers; a women's clothing boutique; a Tommy Bahama men's boutique; a liquor/convenience store; and a coffee shop.

Las Tiendas de Palmilla also features the highly-rated Nick-San Japanese restaurant (there's another Nick-San in Cabo San Lucas) and Pearl (seafood and continental cuisine).

It's worth the drive or the taxi fare to see how "the other half" lives!