Yamanashi Prefecture, land of grapes and peaches

The prefecture of Yamanashi is the real home to Mt. Fuji. The main hiking season occurs in the summer. Yamanashi is also home to the Fuji-Q Highlands theme park. If you are interested in Buddhism then you must see the Kuonji Temple in Minobu-san. It is a working temple that is the home to the Nichren-shu sect of Buddhism. By passing through the gates and climbing the hundreds of stairs to the top (wear comfortable clothes), you can purge yourself.

The capital, Kofu, is home to lots of good food and shopping. You'll find the vast department store Okajima here on a busy shopping area centered around Orion Street.

If you're in the mood for festivals then there is usually something going on somewhere in the prefecture. Every town generally has half a dozen big festivals every year. For example, Fujiyoshida holds the Fuji Fire Festival in late August.

The official English homepage of Yamanashi can be found here: http://www.pref.yamanashi.jp/global_net/html/English/index.htm

Quick Tips:

There are ways to get discounts but it is a huge help if you know someone that can speak and read Japanese. For instance, you can sign up at the Fuji-Q Highlands web site for free and get a discount on admission but it is all in Japanese. http://www.fuji-q.com

Best Way To Get Around:

Trains are present but they do not run to all areas of the prefecture and can be costly. Busses run fairly frequently. Keep in mind that generally, when you board a bus you should take a ticket by the doors so you do not pay a large fare when you leave. Taxis are costly. Walking is okay in the capital, Kofu, but not recommended for smaller towns. Cars can be very convenient but keep in mind that the Chuo Expressway, which runs from Tokyo, is a toll road. Also, many popular places have parking fees.

The Seikitei Hotel can be found in Isawa Onsen, the town that's renowned for its onsens, or hot springs. The rooms have tatami matting (traditional Japanese flooring). The employees are kind although they cannot speak much English. My stay overall was very good and I found the facilities to be very good, the food quite decent and the onsen on the top floor was an added bonus.

Most rooms are traditional Japanese-style. Shoes MUST be removed before stepping on tatami; socks can be worn on tatami but slippers cannot. Your bedding is located in the cupboard; when it's time to sleep then pull out your futon. There is tea, a hot water heater and some snacks provided for you. In the closet they also give you a robe and belt. If you feel like hitting the hot springs, be sure to follow onsen etiquette (I write about this in the Onsen entry); those with tattoos are probably not welcome. If you can, hide it under a bandage. Make sure you walk into the correct facility for your gender; the facilities are rotated every few hours but fortunately there are signs in English. Things like shampoo, conditioner and soap are provided. The onsen is a great alternative to using the rooms' showers because, oddly enough, there isn't enough water pressure to take a proper shower; you must hold the showerhead while showering. This seems a strange oversight for such a nice hotel.

 

The breakfast is a range of traditional Japanese breakfast food (natto, rice, green tea, miso soup) and some Western classics, such as bread and jam, arranged on a large buffet.

Please note that if you want to sit in the formal lounge then there is a 'sitting fee', meaning that you will be charged some money just for sitting down. So if you're interested in a Japanese experience then the Seikitei Hotel might be for you, although the price may be quite high.

Maharani may not have fantastic decorations or an incredible atmosphere but the food is excellent. The cuisine is mostly north Indian, with lots of curries and oven-roasted specialties. With each main course you can pick either rice or bread. The bread is large and delicious. Since the restaurant is north Indian, most of the courses have meat in them. Everything is reasonable priced. Also, alcohol is available.

All of the food comes with 'service', meaning little appetizers and free chai. The fee is 200-300 yen and includes omelets and other appetizing snacks. For Japan, the main course is quite large. The owners are from India and speak decent English. It is a family-run business and their adorable daughter can often be found studying at night.

If you're in Japan for a while and craving some good, authentic Indian food (Japanese curry is not Indian food!), then be sure to hit Maharani, next to Dennys and Book Off.

The Four Hearts Cafe is another hangout for expatriates in Kofu. It's a small, friendly cafe with a great selection of food and drinks. The desserts are all homemade and delicious.

The Four Hearts may be small but they have some great grub on offer. It's also one of the few places in Japan where you can get a sandwich on a baguette! There's a daily soup and meal offer. They also have bagels and pastas (fortunately, the menu is bilingual English/Japanese). There is also a wide selection of drinks, alcoholic (including fine wines) and non-alcoholic (including freshly made fruit shakes). Their desserts are delectable. They have a rotating stock, from apple pudding to cheesecake. All of the food is fairly priced, from about 400 yen for a slice of cheesecake, to 1200 yen for a large main course. I usually pay less than 1,000 yen for a vegetarian sandwich and dessert. The water is self-serve, near the magazine rack.

The staff are very friendly and can speak passable English. The one thing I would change about Four Hearts is that they permit smoking on most of the tables, but because the cafe is small the smoke permeates everything. Otherwise, this is a refreshing oasis of Western-style cafe dining.

The Fujiyoshida Fire Festival is a way of saying thanks for being kind to all of the tourists that have braved Mt. Fuji. It is the close of the official hiking season. This festival takes place at the base of Mt. Fuji. There are activities taking place at Fujiyoshida Shingen and then at the large street just southeast of the temple.

At the temple you will find lots of families and pilgrims arriving. You can make your way to the main temple and offer a coin and prayer. There are also charms for sale. If you are lucky like I was then you may find an impromptu tea ceremony taking place on the west side of the temple grounds.

Near sunset you will find everyone gathering near the main temple. There are replicas of Mt. Fuji that will be lifted by temple volunteers and a large shrine that will be paraded. Keep in mind that when the Shinto priests come out from the temple you should show respect by bowing and refrain from taking pictures.

After sunset you can head down to the main street southeast of the temple where you can witness large bundles of wood set aflame in the street. There are also lots of little stands selling food such as skewered meat, noodles and chocolate covered bananas. It is a fun atmosphere and you will get to see Japanese children dressed in adorable kimonos and robes. There may also be taiko drumming or other activities taking place.

So grab some noodles, head to the temple and have fun taking part in the festivities!

Every year, the town of Katsunuma has a festival to celebrate their main product, wine. This festival takes place in early October.

In order to get to the festival grounds, take the train to Katsunuma. Driving is not recommended because parking is crowded and expensive and Japan has extremely low tolerance for drinking and driving. From the station, there are many busses running directly to the festival grounds (a local school).

At the festival you can purchase a souvenir wine glass for 500 yen. This glass will allow you to sample wines from all of the stalls (a GREAT deal!). Some highlights include peach wines and other regional specialties. If you don't wish to drink there are some fruit juices available. At various times throughout the day there will be grapes given away. This is an excellent opportunity to try one of Yamanashi's most famous products for free; grapes at the supermarket can cost over 700 yen for a bushel!

When you get hungry you can sample all of the normal festival food, including chocolate-covered bananas, fried noodles and squid balls. After you have gotten your fill of the events, make sure you don't miss the bus back to the station! It leaves around 7pm.

For anyone who is living in Japan or enjoying an extended visit, you may start to crave non-Japanese food. If you have access to a kitchen then you can find all of your favorite goodies at Cook-Y.

Cook-Y, looks like a normal Japanese grocery store and is not aimed at foreigners but they have an amazing selection of foreign food at great prices. You can find large blocks of foreign cheese (including chunks of gouda for 600 yen), bags of chocolate chips, lentils, beans, couscous, Mexican favorites, Thai, Korean and Chinese selections, and more. There is a large supply of spices and even bags of frozen tortillas. The only small deficiency is that Cook-Y does not have much in the way of foreign candy. So if you're looking for Swedish fish or licorice then you can't find it here (but if you do find these in Japan then please tell me where!). But if you want to put together a Mexican dinner for your friends then you can find everything here.

Cook-Y carries most things in bulk at excellent prices so you can also find food staples here for cheap. A large sack of flour costs around 330 yen. You can even find a huge, restaurant-style block of mozzarella for 2,000 yen. It's worth noting that surrounding Cook-Y is a cheap, bulk fruit shop, a seafood shop, a meat shop and alcohol shop, all with reasonable prices.

If you're Japanese and you want to try out some real Western food or just a another gaijin searching for refried beans and taco spice, be sure to go to Cook-Y.

The Yamanashi Prefectural Museum has a large exhibit covering the history of Yamanashi and also some rotating exhibitions on art and other subjects that generally relate to Japan.

The museum's main exhibit, encompassing aspects of Jamon culture and life in Yamanashi many years ago, is very child-friendly and has many English translations. There are many creatively-designed exhibits which encourage participation. These are especially exciting for children.

The museum also has rotating exhibitions, which will appeal more towards adults. The last exhibition was on Buddhist art, which many sculptures and scrolls on loan from local temples. I particularly enjoyed the work from this exhibit but there was no information in English available and the guides' English was practically nonexistent.

The museum has a garden area around the museum. There are benches set up for those who may want a picnic. The museum also has a gift shop and cafe.

The museum is usually open from 9:30am to 5pm and closed on holidays and any day after a holiday. The admission for the permanent exhibition is 500 yen but there are discounts available for students. Local buses run to the museum regularly. Parking is readily available. There is a little bit of information in English at www.yamanashi-kankou.jp/english but the museum's official website at www.museum.pref.yamanashi.jp only has Japanese.

Erin-ji Temple is a Buddhist temple that was founded in the 1300s. There is a beautiful path leading up to the main entrance. To the left, you'll find a beautiful pagoda. The main temple is to the north.

The best part about Erin-ji is that the temple is open for tours. The entrance for the temple tour is located on the right side from the main entrance. Be sure to remove your shoes and put on the guest slippers, located in large crates. Shortly after entering the main temple, you will go down a hallway with boards that make noises. These boards are supposed to 'sing.' Later, you will see a traditional Japanese garden. This garden is especially beautiful in fall or spring, when the trees are colorful. The tour ends by walking through a tatami room (be sure to remove your slippers at this point; only socks are allowed on tatami) with some art displayed.

The Erin-ji Temple also houses a small museum devoted to life in the time of Takeda. There are samuari swords, scrolls, and paintings. Unfortunately, there is no English translation available for any of the pieces.

Erin-ji is a fantastic place to visit for the wonderful settings and pleasant atmosphere. Those who wish to see a wonderful Japanese garden and the inside of a temple should opt for the temple tour while those inclined to learn about history should visit the museum. There are also trinkets for sale.

This forest park is family oriented. There is a large area for children with a simulated city that the kids seem to LOVE. There is also a forest playground with a huge rope walkway located on the northeast part of the park. There are lots of cycles for rental, including carts and two-seaters! There are lots of fun trails to traverse on bike, although bikes are not allowed on every trail (but these are clearly marked with a blue sign with a cross through a bicycle).

Kanagawanomori is also great for picnics. There are small tables set up throughout the main area and you can always find a spot. There is usually festival food for sale in the parking lots on weekends and there is also a cafe inside the park, near the bicycle rental stand.

The forest park also has a lake with countless koi near the visitors' center. There are lots of well-marked trails through the forest. It is built around the expressway but fortunately the sounds of the car doesn't seem to hit the park at all. There is a golf course but I have not tried it.

The park is closed every Monday. You can find more information in English at the official website, located at www.city.fuefuki.yamanashi.jp/english/shisetsu.php?id=33 

Kanagawanomori is a fantastic place to spend a day with the little ones, riding bikes, eating lunch and watching the koi. The best seasons to go to this park will be in fall, when the leaves turn beautiful colors and spring, when the trees start to blossom.

 

Uniqlo is a Japanese chain of clothing stores. They have clothes with excellent prices, good quality and some very nice styles. They sell men's, women's and children's clothing. They also sell accessories, including bags and jewelery. They are expanding into foreign markets, including America!

 

Uniqlo has clothes that are suitable for the office and a night out. They tend to pick clothes that are a little boring and not too trendy but the cut and fit is very good. Keep in mind that Japan has different sizes, so if you're a XS (0-2) in America then you'll be a small or 64 here in Japan. Those who are XL in America or are very tall may have trouble fitting into Japanese clothes. They also have a very Japanese aesthetic, so flaring tops and smock-like dresses are in.

Uniqlo also offers accessories and underwear. They have very cute bags, sleepwear, underwear, belts and seasonal accessories, including scarves and gloves. One should keep in mind that in Japan, there is no A cup; all bra cup sizes are one larger. Also, Japanese bras tend to be very frilly and include a lot of underwire. For men, they have a nice selection of underwear and belts. Unfortunately, they don't sell any shoes aside from inside slippers.

Uniqlo has periodic sales where you can find great deals. During these times, you can find a work blouse for only 500 yen! The best time to find clearance items seems to be late summer and around Christmastime.

In Japan, you must always remove your shoes when trying on clothes. Set them face out, outside of your stall. You must also put all your clothes back when you're finished trying them on. You will be extremely lucky if you find any staff that speaks any amount of decent English. Fortunately, the prices and sizes are clearly marked. Uniqlo also has a hemming service!

The Vault is one of Kofu's expatriate hangouts. The owner is from Australia. It's a nice, fairly large space with couches, tables, a large bar, a TV projector, a pool table, and darts.

They have a fairly large selection of beers, shots, and cocktails. The menu is printed in English with Japanese. Cocktails start at 500 yen and most run about 900 yen, which I think is on the expensive side. There are a number of foreign beers on offer. There is also a selection of snacks, including a cheesy nacho plate and spaghetti at good prices.

The staff are a mix of Japanese and expatriates. They are fairly nice and attentive. They all speak passable English.

Unfortunately, The Vault doesn't have dancing except on special occasions. It's at a very convenient location, right next to (technically in the basement) the large, posh, central department store Okajima. At any time throughout the evening you'll find a mix of expatriates and Japanese having a fun time there.

My small town of Misaka is home to a fantastic hot spring, or 'onsen' in Japanese. The place may be hard to find as it is hidden amid peach trees and grape farms but if you go to the trouble to get there then you won't be disappointed!

First, a note about proper onsen etiquette. Tattoos are not welcome and considered polluting. If you have a small tattoo then you can try covering it up with a band-aid. Be sure you go into the correct onsen door - there is one for women (generally with red writing) and one for men (generally with blue writing). You must remove your shoes before stepping on the flooring there (at this onsen, you will remove your shoes at the entrance to the facility) or risk getting yelled at by the locals. Put all your valuables in a locker; you will get a wrist key. Then, strip down completely and grab your small 'modesty towel' (although it doesn't cover much) and leave your large towel in the big tub for when you return.

After stepping into the onsen, you must shower at the little stalls. You can sit on the little stools while you wash your hair and all the rest. There is shampoo, conditioner, and body wash provided. You must be completely clean before stepping into the hot springs because the water is shared and you don't want your dirt to get on everyone's skin. After showering properly, you're now ready to enjoy the onsen!

The Misaka Rose Garden Hot Springs has many baths, including an outside bath. There are some interesting jet baths that are supposed to help various body problems. The hot springs outside usually has pretty flowers floating in the water that have been gathered from the garden. There is also a sauna inside. You can rub salt on your skin if you wish like the Japanese. This onsen attracts few tourists so you may get a few curious looks. If you follow proper etiquette then you will be treated well.

The onsen is open every day except for Tuesday from 10am to 8.30pm. Non-residents are charged 700 yen for a all-day hot springs ticket. There is also a tennis court and hot springs guests get free entrance. There is food available at the dining hall. There are also massages available. You can also stroll through the pretty garden outside. For a map and more information in English you can go to www.city.fuefuki.yamanashi.jp/english/shisetsu.php?id=2 . Enjoy your bathing!

Japan might be an advanced, industrialized nation but if you think that central heating exists then you're kidding yourself. It's cold outside and it can get just as cold inside if you don't take the proper measures. Here's a guide for those of you who want to stay warm!

Insulate your place! At home stores and 100 yen shops you can find cheap insulation strips. Place these in your window cracks so that you don't have any breezes coming in. You can also close the storm windows (if you have them) or use bubble wrap to wrap your windows as further protection from the cold.

The kotatsu is your friend. These are short tables that have a heater underneath and a removable top. Put a large, square blanket in between the table and the tabletop then turn it on! Your legs will stay toasty while you watch TV. Generally, it is not recommended that you use your laptop on the table but if you don't have it turned up really high and can't feel the heat on the top of the table then you should be okay. Don't sleep under it.

If you're lucky enough to have a large air-conditioning unit then it probably gives out heat as well. Look up the kanji for 'heat' and wait until it shows up on your panel. It will take a few minutes to warm up (no, it's not broken!) and then the heat will start to flow. Generally, the Japanese keep the heat confined to one room.

Get out the kerosene heater. Sure, it stinks but it's cheap and warm. Be sure it crack the window every so often before the fumes get to you. Don't use old kerosene because it will give off dangerous fumes. Also, fill your heater outside so you don't spill kerosene in your house.

Hit the hot springs! These places are generally cheap (400 yen for residents) and you can stay in those hot, hot pools for as long as you like. A lot of them have saunas as well, which does wonders for (temporarily) banishing the cold.

Showering can turn into some kind of torture in the cold mornings. I have insulated my shower door and put up a rack of hooks. This way, I put up the clothes I will wear tomorrow on the hooks (away from the water's spray) so that the heat from the shower will warm them up and I won't have to put on freezing clothes. You can also purchase a small electric heater (1000-2000 yen) for those cold mornings.

If you're unfortunate enough to live in the mountains during the winter then you may have to store your toiletries in the fridge so they don't freeze. You may also have to leave on tap dripping so that your pipes don't freeze.

Some Japanese use disposable heat pads during the day. These things range in size, for ones that fit in your shoes to the ones you're supposed to put down your pants. Usually, they have bright red plastic packaging. Unwrap the plastic but don't open the pouch inside. It will start to warm up in a few minutes and last for some hours. These are nice if you're going to be in the cold all day and want some relief.

Wear lots of warm layers. Women, arm warmers are your friend. Also, make sure you have warm blankets so you can get a good night's sleep. Electric blankets are available. If you use a lot of dry heat (from electric heaters, for example), be sure to put on some lotion so your skin doesn't dry out. Just remember, spring will come eventually! Hang in there!

Hoko-ji is a Buddhist temple, located conveniently near the more famous Erin-ji Temple in Enzan. From Erin-ji, walk up the road and look for signs. Hoko-ji is to the left. Hoko-ji doesn't look very different from many other Buddhist temples from the outside, but it does have the distinction of being able to bless those looking for love and it has some fantastic statues.

I highly recommend taking the temple tour. Be sure to exchange your shoes for the guest slippers. The tour leads you around the temple complex. Don't take pictures of the temple sanctums. After passing through the main building, you will come to a small, peaceful area marked by rows of 5 yen coins on string. This is where those who wish to look for love can have some cosmic assistance. You can purchase a small charm. Take the coin and tie it around the rope and make a prayer. The other part is yours to keep. The tour will also lead you to the back of the temple, where you can glimpse most of the tranquil Japanese garden. At the end of the tour you will most likely be provided with a pot of green tea and some snacks. Be sure to thank the monk on your way out ('Arrigato gozaimashta!').

While Hoko-ji may look plain, it houses many treasures waiting to be discovered. Don't give this place a pass!