Dura Vida Nicaragua

“Vida es dura en Nicaragua”
It's almost an understament that life is hard in Nicaragua. Decades of torture and death by the Somoza family of dictators and years of US sanctions left this beautiful country war-torn and it's proud people in poverty. The Revolution is long over but still evident by bullet holes and the stories of mothers losing their sons.

Reading up on Nica's turbulent history is a must to have a meaningful, in-depth travel experience. More than basic Spanish is helpful to get to know the Nicaraguanese. Generally, I found people very friendly and willing to share their life experiences in time. Many a conversation with members of the younger backpacker set gave me an opportunity to share what I sure didn't learn in history class in school. Some had no idea of the basic situation in the country, just passing through on a grand trip, seeming not even to read the history section of their budget travel book. This sparked travelers to see sites they might have missed otherwise and one truly touching story about the girl's orphanage in Granada.

Beautiful deserted beaches, the murals of Leon and the colonial city of Granada are a must.

Quick Tips:

During my visit in June, the weather started hot and humid then gave way to thunderstorms and cooler temperatures. A variety of clothing is suggested as well as rain gear and bug spray. As in other countries in Central America, most people do not have hot showers everyday and warm water is rarely found in budget hotels and hostels.

Carry a calculator for easy converstion of dollars to cordobas. Check the exchange rate before your trip and often during because rates change daily, usually in your favor these days. If crossing the border from another country, exchange all currency if not returning. When carrying US dollars, only change what you need to get to your first destination, rates are better in cities. Contrary to an "updated" guide books, banks are located in most areas including San Juan Del Sur.

Best Way To Get Around:

Infrastructure is on the rise, but don't expect four star accomadations and travel options all the time. Buses can be irregular in the county side and boat service to various islands is seasonal and depends on water conditions.
Electricity service is often erratic and will go out for short periods. Bring a flashlight when walking at night and most hotels have candles at the ready.

What a great find in this budget hostel! Easy to find off one of the main streets, look for the sign painted on a light pole. Free Internet access, book exchange and DVD rentals on 2 TVs are great perks. The reason it is a true oasis is the swimming pool, small but perfect to beat the hot Nicaraguan sun. Dorm beds are cheap, single rooms reasonable and shared rooms are like a regular hotel room with private bath. The common showers are clean and offer privacy. Cushioned chairs under murals and hammocks line the courtyard offering relaxing hang-out spots.

Reception workers are friendly and request well deserved tips. Beverages are available on the honor system and the tab is paid at check out. Simple breakfasts are available poolside and won't break the bank.

The other hostel in town gets tons of hype, some well deserved. I suggest going there to eat but stay at Hostel Oasis.

My only disappointment with the Nica Buffet was the lack of biscuits and gravy as promised by a guidebook. The service and delicious meals more than made up for it. Located in an unassuming building on a side street from the main square, you might not expect much from the look of it. Inside the walls are brightly painted with tropical scenes and less than 10 tables look in to the kitchen. Edward, the Dutch owner, speaks 5 languages fluently and has lived in Nicaragua for 20 years. His story is long and interesting, ending with taking over this restaurant and making it the place for breakfast in Granada. Everything on the menu looks good and is priced around $5 with drink and tip. I choose an omelette with sauteed veggies, cheese and the first really cooked bacon of my trip. Served with potatoes, toast and guava jelly, I was full until dinner. Returning the next day, I recognized other diners from the day before. It's that good! Open from 6am to 12am 7 days.

Another backpacker had heard good things about Tele Pizza, so we decided to check it out. I try to avoid pizza while traveling because it's something I can eat at home, but sometimes you want familiar food. We found a seat in the open-air courtyard among the local families. The busy waiters were prompt and friendly, helping us decipher unknown Spanish words. We decided to split a small pizza and 3 empanadas stuffed with onions, cheese and fresh spinach. A variety of pizza toppings are available on thin or thick crust. The empanadas were made with a thick dough and baked, not fried and absolutely delicious.
The decor is a little funny, American movie and music posters amid pizza toppings and Hollywood street signs. I would recommend this place for budget travelers and families with children. Pastas, salads and slices of pizza are available. Bike delivery is available to your hotel or hostel.

The streets around the market are packed with stalls hawking everything you could never want and a few things you might actually buy. The market itself is a maze of booths and “restaurants.” Many travelers are too intimidated by the chaos and dirty floors to venture in and actually sit down to eat. Basic Nicaraguan fare and soups are sold at low prices. Fresh, colorful fruits and vegetables are sold right next to chicken parts laid out on tables. The blood on the street was almost too much for this pseudo-vegetarian. But walking through the market is an excellent way to see the local culture and the farmers who provide this food. The area is crowded, so watch your belongings and keep money in a safe place.

If you feel a quoted price was too high, you can haggle. Please remember what the $0.50 or $1 means to you and what it really means to them.

The Moon Handbook lists volunteer organizations all over Nicaragua. My heart ached reading about a seriously underfunded orphanage, Hogar Madre de Albertini, in Granada. The book said the girls don't have much to do and mostly watch TV after school. Before my trip, I bought a few fun things and art supplies for the girls. Using the address from the guidebook, I asked for directions at my hostel. The front-desk workers marked the location on a map and off I went. Little did I know that the address was incorrect. I was out of the main area, and not many others were walking along. A young girl walked by and I asked her about the orphanage. She did not know where it was, but sensing gifts, she grabbed my hand. While we wandered back to the park, I asked her about her family and favorite school subjects.

Giving up on finding the orphanage, we sat on a park bench and I pulled out two yo-yo's. Before we could rip the plastic, kids came out of nowhere and surrounded the bench with palms out. I had a few more and gave them out to the nearest boys. They quickly set the string and then helped the girls get their yo-yo's started. A nearby vendor came over asking for something for the baby. I explained I had nothing for him and that her other sons had yo-yo's. She proceeded to berate the 9-year-old that she has plenty and her mother sells enough. I should have said more, but with a stern face, I only said, "It's alright." She went back to her stall and the tension quickly faded.

Still, more kids with their hands out, so I pulled out the deck of UNO cards. Again, the older children helped the younger ones and explained the rules over and over. We had several rousing hands, with everyone winning.

The girl and I left for a walking tour of the city. Just a few blocks from the park and my hostel and all of a sudden we were right in front of the orphanage. We entered through the open heavy, old wooden door into a cluttered room with religious and donated items, gift baskets of bubble bath and such for sale. The woman behind the counter thought I was bringing the girl in off the street. She quizzed her about her family and where she lived. Once she believed the girl really has a home, I asked what things the girls need. With a serious, desperate look on her face, she said one word "Comida." Food.

Later that day, I went grocery shopping for the 18 girls. Pasta, tuna, mayo, bread, juice, and cookies added up quickly. A bagger walked with me to the orphanage. On the way he was polite, but asking typical male questions. When he saw the ancient Madre in full garb, his face turned angelic and his voice soft. "Hola, buenas tardes, Madre." The girls, down the courtyard watching TV on a picnic table, were all wearing matching yellow dresses. When we walked in, they all jumped up, but upon seeing the bags, eyes widened and they all sat back down. We carried the food into the kitchen and I discreetly tipped the guy about $1 in Cordobas and he was off. The Madre spoke rapid Spanish, but I understood most of what she said on the tour.

One large room had about 12 bunk beds and a few playpens with sleeping, sweating toddlers. All the beds were paid with simple bedding and a stuffed animal. Laundry was drying on lines along the simple outdoor courtyard and a woman sat at an ancient sewing machine repairing the yellow dresses. The Madre and I sat on bench talking, and I asked her what else the girls needed. She said fun and educational things. After I left, fighting back tears, I searched the city for toys. I really couldn't find anything.

Later that night, chatting at the hostel, I told everyone about my experience. Some people seems interested, especially two girls from Norway. Weeks later, I received an email and pictures of their visit. They were told the girls needed white school socks, so they brought those and PIZZA! The pictures are incredible, huge smiles and the Madre enjoying a slice.

If you are planning a trip to Granada, please tuck something in your suitcase and make time to visit these girls. The orphanage is a few blocks past the Lacayo Supermarket on Xalteva, at the corner of Avenida Obispo Ulloa.

Many volunteer opportunities exist from a time commitment of a few hours to months. Unlike pay-to-volunteer programs, La Esperanza and Si Se Puede, Yes I Can school are free and would welcome your involvement.