A Brief First Encounter With Helsinki

It's the cultural life in Helsinki that made this trip memorable. I only had a day and a half to find my way around this city, and I realized that walking through the cobblestone streets and meeting the Finnish people were the best way to get a feel for Helsinki life. My favorite time of day is early morning when the sun is just rising and there is an almost magical orange glow cast over the buildings. The streets are quiet and empty except for the beginning stir of workers setting up shop at the harbor market. Take time to just walk around and discover the attitude of the city.

Quick Tips:

Well, I've already hinted that you should begin your day by the harbor and visit the outdoor and indoor markets. There is a little cafe in the center of the indoor market where you can have a pastry and coffee (the Finns love their coffee). You can browse the indoor market for any other kind of fresh food products you're interested in trying like smoked salmon, cheese, bread or produce.

If you're interested in museums, visit the museum of modern art and and the Ateneum (the museum housing more traditional artwork).

For a quick bite, there are many little cafes along the Esplanade, Helsinki's main street. Try Cafe Esplanade or Cafe Strindberg. There's also Rivantola Teaterri, a modern cafe that has a great bar and restaurant attached to it in the back. You should at least visit the bar where the lights on the ceilings and fixtures change color every few minutes to create a very cool atmosphere.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you're staying in the main center of Helsinki near the Esplanade, you'll probably find it fairly convenient on foot. You'll need to take a 30 minute taxi ride from the airport to the middle of town, but after that you can rely on the street cars (or taxis if you prefer).

Hotel Kamp is a luxury hotel designed to make you feel important and pampered. Located along the Esplanade in the center of the city, the Kamp's grand 19th century European architecture tells a history of its own. As you enter the hotel lobby, you will get the immediate feeling of warm elegance. There is a "library" area where people can sit on pillowy couches surrounded by shelves of books and enjoy a relaxing drink. For a more authentic pub atmosphere, head toward the bar in the late afternoon when the sun filters through the windows and you can enjoy a quiet drink and sit in one of the antique couches.

My room was spacious and cozy with a comfortable bed and adequate work table (for those on business trips). My favorite part of the room was the bathroom, actually. In the spa tradition, the Finns probably take pride in the bathroom experience too. Who would have though to have warm towel racks, warm marble floors (great for just getting out of the shower) and a rubber duckie on the bathtub?

Each night there is a turn down service, where your bed will be prepared and you'll get sparkling water and a little snack at your bedside.

If you want to really pamper yourself, relax in the spa after a day of sightseeing. There's different spa rooms like the a menthol treatment (good for if you have a cold). There's also an exercise room located in the spa area.

The Hotel Kamp was definitely a pampering European hotel experience.

Ravintola Teatteri was a unique Helsinki dining experience both in the food and atmosphere. In the front, there is the casual cafe area where lunchgoers and the casual dinner crowd can eat in a relaxed environment.

When you head up the stairs and onto the second level, you'll encounter a totally different atmosphere. The bar caters to the "after work" crowd, where people can sit at the long bar or gather in groups at the many little tables along the side. It's more impressive at night, when the lights along the ceilings change color. The adjacent dining room is even more impressive. It's a huge room with the same changing colored lights along draping white curtains.

The menu is an offering of Cuban, Chinese, Thai, Indian, and even Cajun influenced dishes. I tried the blackened whitefish with sweet potatoes. It was a light fish, similar to trout, that I've never had before. I also tried the pear cider that was so delicious! If you're into beer, try the local Lapin Kulta, a light beer that is also pretty good.

I ate here on my first night in Helsinki. Jetlagged and fighting a cold, I was searching for a nice little place to eat a warm bowl of soup in a relaxing environment. I stumbled upon Cafe Esplanade as I walked along the main street and was immediately attracted to the French cafe style tables and chairs. It looks like your typical cozy cafe, a relaxed environment where you choose what you want to eat from the counter and bring it to your own table. Don't worry if you can speak or read Finnish. Menus are in English as well, and most Finns speak English. It doesn't hurt to learn how to say "thank you" in Finnish though. Kiitos!

They had the basic cafe fare: quiche, soups, salads, sandwiches, fresh pastries, breads, and desserts. I ordered the potato leek soup, which came in a generously-sized white ceramic bowl. The soup hit the spot. Creamy and comforting.

The place is busy during lunch and afternoons, when I witnessed a line of people forming outside the door. It's a casual place to grab a light snack or meal.

The Market Square is a great place to walk around and get a feel for traditional Finnish culture. Walk to the end of the Esplanade and you'll see the market(right across from the Presidential Palace). It's an open area by the harbor where local people gather and set up their stands, selling their handmade crafts and items. Since I was there during the winter, colorful knits and unique furs were on display. I'm not a fur wearer, but after experiencing the cold weather in Helsinki and even further north in Finland, I could see why fur hats are a practical thing to wear among the Finnish people. The handmade knit wool hats and gloves are good gift ideas if you're not into fur. The market square is also a scenic spot right next to the harbor. Go when the sun's just rising and the buildings are lit by the morning light.

If you're into Finnish design, Marimekko is the quinitessential place to find traditional examples of it. The store and its design philosphy grew out of the movement towards a simple and clean Finnish asthetic. In 1960 during the Nixon-Kennedy presidential race, Jackie Kennedy bought some clothes from this obscure store and seemed to set her own style wearing the stripe designed shirt Marimekko is most famous for. The clothes are simple and bold, displaying bright colors and simple designs like flowers and stripes that are reminiscent of childhood. The Marimekko store not only sells clothes, but also sells bed, bath and houseware items. You can even purchase fabric and wallpaper in unique Marimekko patterns. They dishware, bags, and bath accessories all follow the trademark design philosophy: bright, clean, simple, bold and fun.

If you love eating or just looking at food, I highly recommend the indoor market. It's located near the Market Square by the harbor in a red brick building. As you walk into the market, the century-old building echoes with vendors setting up their food stands and people getting their morning coffee and pastry or take-away lunch. It's a large sun-lit complex with antique wooden food stalls lining the building's interior. As you walk down the long walkways, looking at the various foods this place has to offer, you'll notice the way everything is so nicely displayed and presented. It was tempting for me to see all the smoked salmon and seafood cases. There are also interesting food items like smoked reindeer meat and Finnish produce. Take a break at the cafe in the middle of the market, where you can enjoy the warm atmosphere and the smells of delicious food.

I have to admit that I went through the Ateneum fairly quickly, so I didn't really get a chance to have the slow museum experience. If you want to get a sense of traditional Finnish art, the Ateneum is the place to go. It houses Finnishes works from the 18th century to the 1950's, from painting to sculpture and even some photography. The museum itself is small and manageable, so you can spend a quiet afternoon there. If you're interested in more contemporary art, head for the Kiasma museum where I've been told has a great architectural space.

If you're interested in Finnish dishware and silverware, the Arabia store is the place to go to get Finnish signature dishware. These items command a high price if you purchase them in the States, because of the rising trend factor for elegant yet utilitarian design. This outlet store has stacks of the traditional blue Finnish dishware as well as fun, colorful glassware, candle holders, and pottery. This store made me want to buy some dishes to bring home with me. (Okay, I'm not that crazy, but I did entertain the idea for a second.)