Eating in Santa Fe

I am usually very cautious with places advertising themselves as serving things called "Ayurvedic Cuisine" and having a logo like "The Place of Healing Cuisine." What do they mean? Does the food taste like anti-coughing syrup? Are only sick people welcomed?

But sometimes life is stronger than us, and recently I found myself unexpectedly invited to a lunch at Annapurna. I liked the name, it reminded me of some loved places in Nepal, but sadly I found that the Santa Fean version had nothing to do with them.

Beyond the nice name and worrying logo, they specialize in organic vegetarian and vegan food, serve authentic chai, and have a large selection of imported teas, have vegan and gluten-free baked goods and that they specialize on Southern Indian food. The last one is the obvious result of their vegetarian restrictions to the menu.

The place was very spacious, with a few tables in the center and cubicles around the walls; the last were separated from the huge central chamber with the help of long silk curtains. We chose the food by the counter and then found shelter inside one of the cubicles, sitting on comfortable cushions and mattresses placed next to a low table.

The chai ($3.25) arrived first and was true to its fame, despite its price approaching a chai stall daily profits in India; it can be ordered in the milk or soymilk versions and a take away is available for an extra $0.50. It can be served hot or chilled for the same price. Moments before, I spotted next to the imported teas some packages of yerba mate ($1.50), a drink typical of certain parts of South America. Well, they didn't claim to be exclusively Southern Indian. Served in a pot, the teas cost $2.75.

A few minutes later arrived the solid dishes. The Mataar Paneer ($6.95) was well done; the paneer—that soft, white Indian cheese—was especially good. Tasty peas and tom sauce completed the dish. The chapati bread needed to consume it in the Indian fashion was defined as an extra and cost one dollar. A raita, which is a kind of potato salad, was served as a small side dish for $0.25.

In Santa Fe as in Santa Fe, even French restaurants serve burritos. Immense amounts of creativity are invested to provide the requested item under the ethnic restrictions of the specific place. Annapurna stood up to the task and invented the "chapati roll." For $4.95 it is possible now to buy the same New Mexican hit and feel in Mumbai.

For dessert, the cakes were the best option. The carrots and chocolate cakes seemed to be the most popular; they were good and cost around three dollars the portion. However, they added to the basic inconsistency of the place, and after studying the menu it was hard to define it as Southern Indian. Fusion cuisine can be excellent, but it should be advertised accordingly and not disguised under unclear titles.

Parked in front of the welcoming sign to the city, on its southern edge, Callie's Galley is quite a sight. During my repeated trips along the old Las Vegas highway, I never knew if it will stand there or not, I only know that if it will be there, no customers would stand next to it. The last was a statistical certainty.

The Galley is an old bus painted brown with a small sign announcing "Cajun Food." Curious, I decided to stop one early afternoon. Needless to say, ten seconds later a car stopped next to me and became the second potential customer of the place. However, it was only a potential customer, because the woman just looked at my order and drove away. Apparently, I am never truly alone.

Callie, the proud owner, claims that the "self-sufficient Mobile Land Galley can cater your event anytime, anywhere." My visit was less pretentious; I just wanted to taste some New Orleans food because a friend did some positive remarks about it, especially regarding its unique spicing. The menu was simple and clear and included food in three categories: seafood, chicken and pork, and vegetarian.

Seafood in the heart of New Mexico seemed to be a bit too adventurous; thus, I opted for the second category. Meanwhile, Callie insisted in my tasting some of the menu before ordering. The wild wind and hints of a coming rain made me hesitate, but before being able to answer, she put a sample of the crab and crawfish bisque in my hands. Callie defines it as "a decadent creamy thick 'n buttery lobster-like stew over rice, it's not a soup." The lobster-like referred to shrimp-bits, but otherwise the dish was truly decadent and tasty. Inspired by my photographing, she gave me another sample, this time of the chicken and sausage gumbo, a "hearty, flavorful, satisfying and warm but not too hot." The ingredients were successfully described this time and the dish was equally tasty.

The dishes could be ordered in regular lunch trays, pints or quarts. I am unacquainted with imperial units, but the prices of the last two hinted that they were too big, thus I chose a regular tray. As a result of a comment by a friend a few days earlier, I asked for a jambalaya, which Callie describes as "white rice turned brown with all the spicy flavors, plus an abundance of chicken, sausage and ham." The dish arrived in a big tray with two pieces of hot bread and a small coleslaw salad. As promised, the rice was tasty and spicy, somehow just before it becomes too hot to be pleasant.

Driving away, I began planning my next visit. Would be any witnesses to my eating Callie's Caribbean Shrimp on Saffron Rice? Stay tuned.

It was time for a "Block the Arteries" day. Once in a while, I waive off self-restrictions on sugars, fats, carbohydrates, and other spoiling foods, to check out if I am still attracted to them. New York Deli was the perfect place for my experiment, because of its mainstream America dishes. Moreover, it is positively out of place in the Different City, where everybody celebrates his or her uniqueness by eating the same tired burrito.

Sitting on the Cerrillos and Rodeo junction, the place is easily accessed from downtown through Cerrillos. It offers plenty of free parking in front of it and is far enough from downtown to be pleasantly empty. There were no surprises inside, where photographs dating back a century, wall paintings of the modern New York skyline and photographs of old movies decorated the place. Alongside a few coaches, there were regular tables and chairs, which were not fancy, but were comfortable. For take away, the order should be placed at the counter; otherwise a waitress takes the order from the sitting guest.

While studying the huge menu, I asked for an espresso ($1.5). It arrived quickly within a china cup, breaking the Santa-Fean habit of paper-cups; even the cutlery was made of solid metal. For a town so concerned with recycling, Santa-Feans have a weakness for paper and plastic.

Unfortunately, the espresso was weak and lukewarm. Usually, that would be enough to send me elsewhere, but the food menu looked attractive. Hence, I asked for a regular coffee ($0.75), which arrived with cold milk aside. This one was good, and the waitress kept filling it during my long stay.

It was a tough decision, but finally I took a special omelette breakfast ($6.95). It included two eggs, prepared as per the customer preferences, two slices of bacon, two small pancakes, potatoes and a bagel with butter and jelly or with cream cheese. There were fifteen kinds of bagels to choose from, but - faithful to the place - I chose the New York Rye, which came coated with cumin seeds; it was fresh and of top quality. To accompany it I preferred the cream cheese to the jelly. There were thirteen kinds of cheese, and I chose the plain one; in such a way it was easier to appreciate its excellent quality. The tasty pancakes were served with an overdose of maple syrup and butter and the potatoes were served non-peeled and cooked to their exact point.

It was hard to leave the place; the food was enough to induce an early siesta and only the coffee, flowing from an endless spring, kept me awake until it was time to leave.

The place, as many others in Santa Fe, works for very limited hours, specifically from 7am to 3pm every day including weekends. Is that a hint to skip the lunch specials and to enjoy instead one of their excellent breakfasts as a brunch?

Few places seem to fit Santa Fe so well as the Tree House. Arriving there is an adventure; it is placed on a dirt road deviating suddenly from the not so central Agua Fria Road. The road descends into something looking like a hybrid between a greenhouse and a plantation. Wild apples and ripe gooseberries share the ground with endless plants, shrubs and young trees for sale. Somewhere among those, half-hidden among the greenery, is a wood house. A solid one, with thick—though not always straight - trunks giving support to the building. A few tables in its interior and others in its surroundings complete the picture.

The kitchen is of the open type, allowing observing the cooking while waiting. The place is clean to the point that it looks new; there are no signs of the cooking fumes and vapors on the walls or ceilings, the wood has an untouched natural hue which gives to the place an unreal quality, like a toy restaurant in a huge theme park.

The menu is varied and is divided into a breakfast and a lunch section, a silent testimony that the place - as most of Santa Fe—is closed at the evenings. Breakfasts cost between $5.95 and $7.75, while lunches prices oscillate between $7.50 and $8.25 for the main dishes. The only (?) side dish—a small version of their Farmer's Salad—costs $4.25.

I arrived there on time for a late breakfast. The options were varied and the main dishes were always incomplete; the lacking ingredient could be added at an extra cost. For example, granola with yogurt costs $6.25, but to get fresh fruit with it, two dollars should be added. A bowl of fresh fruit would cost $5.95, and yogurt could be added for an extra $1.50. The most expensive dish in the breakfast menu was roasted corn and green chili frittata with Yukon gold potatoes, a roasted tomato and fresh fruit for $7.75; adding house mixed greens would add an extra $1.50.

Even in Santa Fe, that looked very expensive for a one-dish breakfast. Disliking the idea of buying one but paying for two, I decided to concentrate on the pastry items. A simple coffee costs $1.60, while muffins and croissants cost $2.25, simple scones $1.95 and an addition of butter or jam costs a mere $0.25. A croissant suited me, a good and fresh one is an acid test to a pastry shop, but it wasn't available. A blueberry muffin took its place. It was very fresh and the blueberries were excellent, but somehow it had a residual taste of disappointment.

Location

Two blocks away from Santa Fe’s Central Plaza, the Green Palace Teahouse is superbly located facing the city’s cathedral park; allowing thus a comfortable spot for a break while visiting downtown’s main attractions.

Positioning

With Santa Fe trying hard to position itself as the "City Different" (sic), it is difficult to single out a truly different establishment. Yet, the Green Palace Teahouse immediately caught my attention. Furthermore, while inquiring about one of their unusual products (pu-erh tea) I met Vera Hanakova – the chef – and was awarded an exclusive interview.

Setup

The teahouse – as much of Santa Fe – is within a low adobe structure and features large windows allowing the breeze in. The place gives its customers the space they deserve, the few tables, chairs and couches are tastefully scattered around, while works of local artists decorate the walls.

Shows

The teahouse features local artists during the evenings; occasionally there is a small cover charge ($3-$5). I have seen Rusalki, a Balkan singing group and Trio Andaluz, a belly-dancing event, during my visits there.

The Teas

Teas are served in 18 oz. Teapots or in bulk by the ounce. Most of the teas offered are organic, with teapots beginning at $4 and reaching $7 for special teas like the Bangwei 2005 Chinese Pu-Erh or the Japanese Gyo Kuro. The bulk teas begin at $2/oz. and reach $20/oz. for the above-mentioned Bangwei.

Visiting the place was like having an academic lesson on teas; black, green, Oolong and Pu-Erh; Japan, China, Tibet, Taiwan, India, Sri Lanka and Kenya; even Rooibos from South Africa. The selection resembled an IgoUgo contributor journals list!

As often happens with American restaurants, flavored products were offered as well. The Moroccan Mint (green tea with spearmint) and Mango Indica (green tea and mango pieces) got my attention.

The Menu

The Green Palace Teahouse offers also coffees, chais and simple meals. A good choice of raw foods is available as well as creative sandwiches – like the Tofurky Reuben. Some of the dressings - like the Tahini Miso – were exceptional.

The Interview

While inquiring about the Pu-erh and Oolong teas, which I extensively drank during my trips in Yunnan and Xishuangbanna, China, I met Vera – the chef – and got the opportunity to interview her:

Is there a sophisticated enough market in Santa Fe, for differentiating between Oolong and Pu-Erh teas?

Vera: We see our role as an educational one as well. We have a display of the different teas for the customers to study and we offer weekly Tea Tasting events in which a specific tea is featured and offered to our visitors.

What was your inspiration for the Green Palace Teahouse?

Vera: Similar institutions in Prague, which I had the opportunity to study for years, inspired the teahouse. I simply added the organic and raw food part as an attempt to offer a healthier, more modern menu to our customers.

Having spent significant amounts of time in South East Asia, I couldn’t help but notice the definite Asian line of the teahouse. Why did you choose it? How does it fit the New Mexican environment?

Vera: Well, most of our teas are Asian, and I wanted to present them in their natural environment. Santa Fe features a strong interest in Buddhism and thus our customers enjoy our setup.

The Tahini-Miso dressing is brilliant. How did you design it?

Vera: Both products are Asian and it seemed a natural blend to me.

Finally, which is your favorite tea?

The Pear Mountain – Li Shan – variety from Taiwan. It is a light roasted, low oxide green oolong tea grown on 2000m high mountains among fruit orchards – this gives it an incomparable taste and aroma.

The margarita wasn’t strong enough to make me forget the meal, that was clear from first sip; but I am jumping ahead, allow me to begin the story a couple of hours earlier.

Maria’s History

Maria Lopez began a Mexican food take-out during the Santa Fe Fiestas in 1950; since then the place operates at the same location. In 1985 the place change hands. It is one of the best-advertised places in town for New Mexican Food and margaritas. It was just a matter of time for me to reach it in order to find the difference between Mexican and New Mexican food; my initial assumption was that the claim was just a gimmick.

Location

Located on 555 W. Cordova Road, Maria’s is close to the Central Plaza, but not enough for doing the way by foot. Luckily, the establishment has a large parking lot for the customers.

Ambience

Maria’s - as much of Santa Fe - is within a low adobe structure and features several rooms. We arrived in a group of seven – after having made a reservation – and were offered a private dining room. Its location next to the Maria’s bar allowed the noises from the Mexican television to invade our space, but the table was huge, the chairs comfortable and the courtesy chips and salsa placed immediately in front of us helped to forget the annoyance.

Side Dishes

Most dishes arrived in large plates and contained similar side dishes; hence, I’ll present here the ubiquitous add-ons separately.

Chips and Salsa: the most popular snack in New Mexico was a courtesy of the house (for the first serving, afterwards it costs $2.5). The chips were regular ones while the salsa was very spicy, not all members of our groups could eat the fierce chilies. Fortunately, our water glasses were kept constantly full.

Rice:

After having spent long periods of time in South East Asia, rice became a painful issue while in the Americas, from Bolivia to the US something always is wrong with the rice. In Maria’s it was watery and covered with a light red sauce, which gave it an ill appearance.

Refried Beans:

With some main dishes approaching thirty dollars and margaritas reaching $48, Maria’s cannot be defined as a fast-food joint. Yet, they add to most dishes a mushy paste of refried beans, the cheapest staple food in the Mexican cuisine. Adding injury to the insult, it was covered by cheese-analogue (coalesced milk proteins which resemble cheese but are much cheaper).

Tortillas:

Corn tortillas were one of the accompanying options for the main dishes. They arrived in couples and covered by a cloth to keep them hot; they were thick, fresh and tasty.

Sopaipilla:

Square in shape, these delightful fried buns arrived with honey and added a sweet tone to the otherwise extra-hot meal.

Salad:

Coming from a salad-oriented culture, this is another point of constantly painful experiences for me while abroad. In Maria’s, an innocent bowl was piled high with very tired vegetables. The last arrived in big chunks and thus mixing them up was difficult; decent dressings were missing. This modern Babylonian tower was covered with cheese-analogue and avocado salad; the avocado was great.

Main Dishes

Among he group, I was the only non-vegetarian; my hosts graciously conceded me a meat dish; soon we discovered it was the only respectable option in the menu. Maria’s pride itself on its extensive vegetarian menu; however, in practice, all the vegetarian dishes suffered from an attempt to use the cheapest ingredients available.

Fiesta Tamales Plate:

Made with corn masa protected by chalas (maize leaves), the vegetarian version of the tamales was filled with chilies and other unrecognized-vegetables. "I have tasted better ones," the victim summarized.

Blue Corn Enchiladas and Burritos:

Enchiladas are rolled tortillas, which can contain a variety of fillings; a Santa Fean variation features blue corn tortillas, filled with chilies and other vegetables. I found myself in troubles while trying to pinpoint the difference between a burrito and an enchilada; the main difference is one of presentation, a tasty sauce always generously covers enchiladas, while burritos are just a rolled tortilla.

Carne Adovada:

This was my choice for a main dish. Lean and tender pork is marinated in red chili, herbs and spices and then baked; this is the flag-dish of New Mexican cuisine. The meat was superb and it drew longing glances even from strongly committed vegetarians.

Margarita

Maria’s pride is the margaritas. Over a hundred types are served, ranging from $6 for the Home Margarita and reaching $48 for La Margarita de Paradiso (sic, the menu featured several Spanish errors, adding thus another disturbing detail to the visit. Where is Maria?).

We were handed a very specific paper describing what margaritas are. Over twenty stories try to describe their history; Maria’s even sells a book on that. However – according to them – the most credible story is that after World War II corporate America discovered it around Palm Sprins, California, while on golf outings. They used to take a shot of tequila, a bite of lime and a lick of salt, a local bartender added the Cointreau and the ice and created the cocktail.

The cocktail is prepared with tequila, triple-sec and limejuice; the last is a shortcut taken by Maria’s. Following the trend with the vegetal ingredients of their dishes, they have exchanged the lime by lemon juice, justifying the move by claiming taste inconsistencies in the lime. Tequila is a Mexican liquor (regardless the producer, the real staff is marked "NOM" with four numbers afterwards, as a sign of being regulated by the Mexican government) produced from the sugary juices extracted from the agave plant. Tri-sec and Cointreau are orange liquors made from sun dried orange skins in the West Indies; the tri-sec denotes the triple distillation process used; Maria’s uses the cheaper Tri-sec. Finally ice is added and salt sprinkled on the glass rim.

The drink was enjoyable, but the margarita wasn’t strong enough to make me forget the meal. We didn’t stay for a coffee.

It was an emergency; I needed access to the internet. Not for the first time, I met an idiosyncrasy of the US. In Laos and Nepal, Bolivia and Buenos Aires I could be confident of being able o find an internet café: sometimes expensive, others cheap, but it would be waiting for me. Maybe wi-fi was available and maybe not, the two access methods are not self exclusive. Yet, with the exception of downtown Miami, I have not seen proper internet cafes in the USA. The libraries computers cannot replace them; simply there are few libraries and few computers in each. Was this the result of the control-paranoia featured by the American government? Buses in Santa Fe feature three (!!!) cameras in their interior; I could be witnessing a similar nature attempt to control the citizens’ access to the net. This reasoning took away from me precious seconds, and I still couldn’t think of a solution.

In deep despair, I entered the Green Palace Teahouse – a place I had explored before - and asked help from Vera – the owner and chef. "I don’t know," she said. As I was heading out, she added: "Wait, go to Aztec."

Location

Placed on 317, Aztec Street, Aztec is near the Sanbusco shopping centre and the Guadalupe Railway Station, and at walking distance from Santa Fe’s central plaza.

Food

Coffees appeared in a wide variety, and were complemented by hot chocolate, teas, milkshakes, smoothies and several cold drinks. The food included bagels, granola, burritos, quiche, soup, salads and sandwiches. Ice creams were the main dessert.

Manners

Standing next to the counter, I noticed a sticker prominently placed next to the attendant. "Starbones – Coffin" it said using a font and design resembling the Starbucks logo. A skeleton replaced the mermaid. I have no idea what their problem is with Starbucks, but offending the other is never a cure.

Following their bad manners, they put yet another sign below the first, saying: "We reserve the Right to Refuse Service to Assholes and People on Cell Phones."

Definitely, they were serious in their anti-social attitude. I took a quick glance downwards. I had black socks. Then, I carefully studied all the stickers in sight and was relieved: they had nothing against fans of black socks.

Internet

I did not like their attitude, yet I needed the internet. I bought the cheapest coffee and passed from the lobby – Aztec is placed within a modified adobe house – to one of the inner rooms, where the only computer was placed. Luckily, it was free and I could sit next to it.

Seconds later, I understood why it was free. In an attempt to beat their own nastiness at the counter, they had a Linux based computer. In itself that was OK, but the system had been modified in such a way that it would not read USB based memory cards.

Defeated, I walked out, not before having shaken my sandals before leaving; I didn’t want even their dust.