Spring trip to the Big Island

Hawaii is magical because it offers so much more than just gorgeous beaches with warm, vivid blue waters. The Waip'io Valley is a tropical wonderland and Volcano National Park offers landscapes and trails that seem more like the Moon than earth. The people are friendly and warm.

Quick Tips:

The weather is warm and tropical, but make sure you bring rain gear for trips to the eastern end of the island (Hilo) and the volcano national park.

Best Way To Get Around:

Car rentals are the best way to get around. It's a big island, a crossing the island takes about 2-3 hours depending on the route.

This is an very nice mid-priced condominium option for Hawaii, and we were pleased with the value, quality of rooms, and location. The terraced, open air structure allowed the sea breezes to sweep through with the sounds of the surf. There condos are nice to stay at because of the full kitchen (complete with pots, pans, dishwasher), washer/dryer, and spacious balcony.

It''s important to note that a blender was included in the kitchen, which is essential for making papaya, mango, and pineapple smoothies, which we enjoyed every morning on our balcony. As I thought about my small one bedroom apartment in Manhattan, I was thrilled at the size and setting of our condo.

We found that many families were also staying here, as it was Hawaii''s Spring Break. You won''t find luxurious spas, golf courses, and room service here, but it''s a very nice place to stay if you''re active and want to feel more at home than in a hotel. After all, we only spent mornings and late evenings there. The decor at this hotel is not what you''d find in a luxury place either, but it''s like what you''d find in a nice Hilton or Sheraton hotel.

The Royal Seacliff Resort is located along the western coast of Hawaii, about a mile south of the center of Kailua-Kona. It''s close to the water, but there is no beach because the coastline there has black lava rocks and no sand. You''ll have to drive a few miles to visit beaches for snorkeling and swimming. Alii Drive is a main road and sort of busy, but the walkways are spacious and many people run and bike along it. It runs along beaches, small hotels, and vacation homes.

There is an open air atrium in the middle of the resort with tropical plants, small waterfalls, and pools. It gives it a nice tropical feel. There are saltwater and freshwater pools that kids really like. If I had a family I would defintely come back. If I had a lot of money, I''d really like to see what the Four Seasons is like!

The dining options in Kailua-Kona are not spectacular, especially if you are coming from a big city like New York City. We tried this place called Sibu Cafe, and we found this simple cafe to offer nice and light Indonesian Fare. It's not a romantic setting there in the courtyard of a small shopping center, but the food tasted authentic and just what I needed after all the fried SPAM I had for lunch.

I recommend the green vegetable curry and the beef satay, but you won't be overwhelmed. Tastes more like home cooking. It closes around 10 PM, like most of Kona does, so get there relatively early. It will be a nice walk in the touristy town, if you go along the harbor after dinner.

It is obvious that Kailua-Kona is a tourist town, and the main dining question for me in any tourist-filled town is "Where do the locals eat?" and where can I find unique, local cuisine. After driving around Kona for about 20 minutes and avoiding the obvious tourist dining choices, we located this L&L Drive-Inn in a strip mall near the center of town and located next to a Baskin Robbins 31 Flavors. Not tucked away anywhere romantic or undiscovered, this is local, everyday Hawaiian food at its down-to-earth best.

Every-day eating at this place consists of a mix of fast food drive in food like burgers, with Hawaiin favorites like Saimin, SPAM, and Japanese/Korean favorites. The fact that everything is served in styrofoam containers emphasizes how un-touristy this place is.

A soup-noodle dish called Saimin was an interesting discovery that we found throughout Island eateries. It is a lot like the instant Ramen you make at home, but this has a much more flavorful soup base with bits of Chinese BBQ Pork and SPAM. Another delicious fast-food item there was the Chicken Katsu, like you'd find at any Japanese resturaunt. The Katsu here was hot and crisp, and served with tangy Katsu Sauce (served in a tiny plastic cup), in typical "Plate Lunch" fashion with two scoops of rice, and one scoop of macaroni salad.

This was a cheap, non-fancy, yet original find and we enjoyed talking with the happy, boisterous Hawaiian families who were also eating dinner there. This place is a chain, so look out for other locations thoughout Hawaii!

The Waipi'o Valley is located along the North Coast of the Big Island, and from the Waipi'o Valley Lookout one can see that it is a stunning, secluded valley enclosed by steep walls. The valley meets the ocean at a tranquil black sand beach. It is an easy 2 hour drive from Kailua-Kona along the Mamlohoa Highway that takes you through the interior of the island and some interesting countryside.

We decided to explore the Waipi'o Valley on horseback with a tour company called "Waipi'o on Horseback and Taro Farm." This was one of the most memorable activities of our trip. The tour group meets at the tiny town of Kukuihaele at the Last Chance Store. Before you reach the stables at the bottom of the valley, you'll have to endure a fun but very bumpy, low gear ride in a circa 1980, beat-up, four wheel drive dodge van that follows a incredibly steep one lane road to the bottom of the valley. The van ride lasts about 20 minutes, and the Hawaiian cowboys that guide the tour on horseback are quite entertaining as they take you into the valley in the van. Like cowboys in mainland, these Hawaiian cowboys wear Wranglers and cowboy hats, and do rodeos and smoke Marlboros. But these guys are a unique island cowboy breed, because they also hunt wild pigs, catch freshwater prawns with their bare hands, and surf on black sand beaches.

The two and a half hour guided excursion with about 12 other riders was perfect for a beginner. The horses were well behaved and followed the route in single file with a only a little bit of guidance, though like to stop to chomp on plants. The route meanders in the valley floor, passes taro farms, and winds through hidden trails in the lush rainforest full of singing birds. There are several parts of the path that actually cross the river, and it's amazing that the horses don't lose their footing on the slippery rocks.

The cowboys point out exotic fruits like pomelos, which are giant grapefruits the size of a small basketball. A pack of friendly dogs, the cowboys' pets, eagerly dart in and out of the forest and between the horses' legs. It's a relaxing ride, and the views of the primitive, wild valley are truly remarkable. Several waterfalls flow down the sheer walls of the valley.

The ride costs $75 per person (not including tip), and you should reserve a spot two days in advance. It is definitely worth the price for a unique way to see this beautiful area. I recommend wearing long pants, even though it was about 80 degrees, because there are mosquitoes in the valley, but you don't really notice them because of all the gorgeous scenery. I would have liked to visit the beach which is only a 25 minute hike from the bottom of the road, but that's for next time.