Marseille & Beyond

Is Marseille really worth the visit? It's true that it does not have a great reputation among tourists. One often hears about how it's dirty, crime ridden and full of begging gypsies, pickpoketing youngsters and crazy drivers. On top of that, unlike Paris, it does not offer any great museums or world-famous sites. So what could possibly be the reason to visit Marseille?
It is true that this city is not for those who do not wish to get too culturally shocked on their vacations. But yet the city does have very interesting sites and experiences to offer for those who are not afraid to explore.
Marseille a very cosmopolitan city, where north African and European cultures collide in sometimes pleasantly surprising ways. The French often joke themselves that the most northern city of Africa is Marseille. If you wish to explore the more exotic parts of this city and know how to act when approached by shady characters, I would recommend going to the market of Noailles neighborhood or "Le marche du Soleil" (the market of the sun) near Porte d'Aix. If you dig far enough in these markets, besides cheap perfumes and random trinkets you can find african teas and spices, beautiful north african pottery, clothes, hookas...etc.
If you are a food junkie and have at your disposition your own kitchen, then don't miss the morning fish market in Vieux Port (in the center of the city). If you have no kitchen handy then I highly recommend exploring the numerous great restaurants that the city has to offer. Try avoiding, however, most touristy places in Vieux Port and their cheap bouillabaisse (a fish soup that is a speciality of Marseille). Instead do your research on restaurants in advance, for best (though rather expensive) bouillabaisse, for example, I'd recommend going to Chez Fonfon. If one day you wish to improvise or are tired of French cuisine, then walk around Cours Julien, a neighborhood filled with different international restaurants, popular bars and live music.
If you're a nature lover, then you absolutely must explore the calanques in Luminy (another neighborhood of Marseille) and take a bath in the bright blue waters of the Mediterranean sea. It will be a magic experience that you will not be able to forget (though be sure to bring with you lots and lots of water and sunscreen).
Yes, it's true that visiting Marseille can be an unpleasant experience if you are not prepared. But if you do your research beforehand and you are not afraid of some adventure, you will find that this city has numerous hidden facets and gems to offer. Besides, what appeal can stuffy museums have in a bright city by the Mediterranean sea?

Quick Tips:

Several tips and suggestions when you're visiting Marseille:
1. It's better to come in the summer, in the winter the city is cold, rainy and windy. But in the summer its terraces, restaurants and beaches are boiling with life.
2. Watch out for pickpokets. Do not leave things like phones or wallets on your table for everyone to see. Hide your money and important papers well.
3. Unfortunately not that many people speak English.
4. Some women complain that traveling alone in Marseille is dangerous. Personally I've lived there for two years and have never found myself in any dangerous situations. Yes, sometimes you might hear someone whistling at you or hollering something. The best thing to do in these cases is to walk by without giving any sign of aknowledgment.
5. I can't recommend this highly enough, but don't miss the numerous hiking trails around the city, especially by the coast.

Best Way To Get Around:

The public metro and bus systems are rather reliable and efficient. You'll find that you can go anywhere you'd like to go via the bus / tramway / metro.
If you wish to explore towns or villages around the city then you'll probably find that traveling by car will give you more freedom.

"Dos Hermanas" is definitely one hip tapas bar to be seen in. Located on one of the tiny streets surrounding the Place Julien, it is filled with red, young faces of tipsy 20-somethings, and loud conversations. After 8pm the place is swarmed, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings, so I highly recommend either coming in early or making a reservation. There is a small outside area in the back, right by the kitchen, with tiny tables lit by dim candles. During the hot summer months most people try to get a table out there because in the smoky rooms of the restaurant it is almost unbreathable.

This is not your typical Spanish tapas bar, where you get to choose what you want by the counter. Instead, the owners came up with the idea of a huge blackboard menu, which they pose in front of you once you are settled at your table.

For those of you not in the know, tapas are served in small portions, so for a full dinner you would need to order two or three plates per person. Though I am not a specialist in sangrias, I'm still going to allow myself to recommend a pitcher of red sangria to go with your dinner. The food is tasty, though not refined. And the costs depend on how many and what kind of tapas you order, the seafood plates being the most expensive (around €10), but also the most filling.

I highly recommend this restaurant for the travelers who would like to get away from the touristy sites and servers who are fluent in English, and experience the jovial atmosphere of the young Marseille.

When in Rome do like the Romans do. So when in Marseille, why not go to one of those restaurants that the locals visit? L'Aromat is one of those places. Located on a little street near the square Castellane, it serves delicious dishes with a twist in the presentation and combinations: for example, for desert I had "fruit sushi" made out of sweet rice wrapped in mango flesh and stuffed with little pieces of delicious fruits and berries. I also highly recommend ordering sardines for appetizer ,the speciality of Marseille (if they are still on the menu as the chef changes it regularly), you will not regret digging your teeth into three shiny sardines after they have been grilled directly on your table on a tiny grill.
The portions in this restaurant are small but deliciously filling. The interior design alone will warm your heart and stomach with its orange walls and wooden tables.
If you decide to go to this restaurant I recommend reserving for the evening, as the space is rather small and at noon it is filled with loud businesspeople on lunch. L'Aromat is open at noon from Mondays to Fridays, and in the evening only on Fridays and Saturdays. If you know French you can check out their menu at the following website: www.laromat.com

The truth is Marseille is not a great city for museums or cultural events, like Paris is. But it is a great city for natural sights. One of my most favorite places in Marseille is La Corniche, the winding street La Corniche du President Kennedy is bordered on one side by the Mediterranean sea and on the other side by mansions.
La Corniche is a must in Marseille just like Notre Dame de la Garde and bouillabesse. If you take pleasure in exploring the sights by walking, then I recommend the following route:
Start from Vieux Port and walk down the Quai de Rive Neuve. On your left you will see Fort St. Nicolas that you can explore for great views of the port. This fort was used in 17th century by Louis XIV to fire canons at the rebellious citizens of the city and is still occupied by the military. Continue straight and a little later you will stumble upon Parc du Pharo (it will be on your right). The park is open to public and built around the great castle of the Empress Eugenie (the wife of Napoleon III). At this point the Quai de Rive Neuve turns into boulevard Charles Livon. Continue down the boulevard and turn left on Corniche du President J. F. Kennedy. Continue along La Corniche for the most stunning view of the Mediterranean sea and its beaches. Just before reaching the statue of David and the beaches of Prado La Corniche turns into Promenade Georges Pompidou.
The whole walk from Vieux Port to the statue of David takes between 1 and 2 hours (depending on how often you stop), and though the numerous cafes around the statue are on a slightly expensive side, in summer their refreshing “demi-peche” (beer mixed with peach syrup) will taste heavenly after such a long walk. If you’re, then, not feeling too burned out you can turn left on avenue du Prado and walk straight to the Prado metro station.

This is a wonderful route and I highly recommend it to those visiting the city. Even if you do not enjoy long walks or start feeling too achy along the way, don’t despair you can always take the bus 83 (€1.20 for single ticket). It takes you from Vieux Port to Metro du Prado along the same route. Just make sure to sit by the window. :)