A Tropical Paradise Without the Passport

There's more to this island than San Juan's metro area and that's the bonus awaiting that most travelers never bother taking advantage of - beautiful beaches, a mountainous middle, the rain forest and caves. There's the arid south and northern gold coast - all dotted with small towns and villages; locals eager to make a guest feel at home.
Puerto Rico's size is 100 by 35 miles - small enough to get anywhere in less than half a day; large enough to keep you occupied once you get there.
Nowhere else in the world will you find little green tree frogs called "el Coqui". They're the pride of Puerto Ricans; frog replicas often appearing on island merchandise. You'll never see Coqui, but at night they'll sing you to sleep in a heavenly concerted effort.
Salsa is the island's music. General movements appear all but choreographed in rhythm to this infectious Latin beat that's played everywhere.
Get ready to join the party! Puerto Ricans know how to live life to the fullest. When finished with a hard day's work, they're ready to relax and spend time with people in this culture driven by socializaiton.

Quick Tips:

Puerto Rico is an excellent "breaking in" destination for travelers wanting to explore the Caribbean. If you don't like or aren't comfortable with what you find here, I wouldn't recommend other islands.
The island offers all the creature comforts of home in addition to favorite shops/eateries including Wal Mart Supercenters, Tony Roma's ribs. Such Americanization can be a blessing or curse when searching for "authentic" experience. Places can have a Florida feel.
In San Juan, you can survive without speaking a word of Spanish. English also can usually suffice in most countryside establishment unless you're looking to "get real" with the locals.
Currency is U.S., but doesn't go very far. Cost of living is high in PR. It's also been passed along to the booming tourist industry; prices sky-rocketing across the board over the last few years.
If you base island exploration from the capital, don't get sucked into the exciting, relaxing, carefree atmosphere. (Read my San Juan journal to find out just how good it is!) I've squandered many plans, intentions here. Likely you will, too!
The tourism board I reference can be reached at 800-233-6530 or www.prtourism.com". Branch offices are located in NYC/LA/MIAMI.

Best Way To Get Around:

Domestic carriers fly to San Juan-(SJU) daily; American Airlines being leader. East coast flights are inexpensive; less than round-trip with advance purchase traveling Monday-thru-Thursday. Midwest/West coast travelers - ask agents to "break" rates between departure city and the east, and your connecting flight to PR for often cheaper rates.
SJU is connections hub for other Caribbean destinations. Flights fill up quick! Book early while dates/rates are available.
International & Local car rental agencies are found everywhere; competition driving prices down. Weekly rentals are cheapest; day deals often below including tax/insurance.
Five "Tourist Routes"/interstates conveniently cover the island; secondary roads also in good condition. Back roads are treacherous. Be prepared for flats.
Maps! Gave up, threw them in the backseat, simply followed instincts. PR maps are poor; not one of them the same. Roads dead-end in the middle of no where; principal throughways no where to be found. If you're looking for adventrue, have any sense of direction - Go With It! PR's not big...you can't get that lost!
See my Free Form hints section for additional Travel tips.

Lonely Planet''s guidebook has more camping information and options than you''ll find from the PR Tourism Bureau, but I have to caution potential campers about the key "missing" information on this subject - When are the campgrounds open!?!

We'd rented a car and set out for ten days of island exploration and camping...or so we cluelessly thought. Not once did we find a camping facility anywhere that was open during the week since Puerto Ricans obviously only camp as a weekend activity.

A perfect example was the NE coastal Playa Seven Seas area that has several campgrounds advertised and that were ALL locked-up during the week. One gentlemen said we could go ahead and pitch our tent further down on the public beach and while things were quite beautiful, we'd have been potential sitting ducks as the only people around. And as you might expect, camping facilities we DIDN'T get into ranged from full-scale everything to dusty, barren lots like in La Parguera.

Puerto Rico's "postcard" beaches, such as BUYE, are unmarked and unidentified but located along the western coast. Even though it was again mid-week, by chance we ran into the owner who let us in to camp with no access to any facilities. And since beaches in this area are private, it was safe to be all alone...well, except for the sand fleas which ate us up, but it was worth it to spend a night under a full moon marooned on a Gilligan''s Island-type beach. And would you believe it was the only night we used the tent camping?

By the time the weekend rolled around and facilities were open, we were content for roughing it in hotels and reclining the car seats back and snoozing in the car.

So is camping doable? Certainly on the weekends; nightly rates not listed much above $15. I've since regretted not taking advantage of the opportunity that trip when the beaches and campgrounds were packed with Puerto Ricans enjoying life to the richest extent!

Split your luggage between clothes and necessities and, the small tent with poles/stakes, towels, sheets, flashlights, and for God's sake - OFF bug spray! A small styrofoam cooler and anything else you need can be picked up on the island. Remember, they've got Wal Mart and Sears, too!

As for cooking things, it isn't really necessary if you're not looking to bring or purchase supplies for doing so. You can load up on other items at near by stores...but something tells me when the smells start coming off those grills from across the campground, you'll want to be cooking something. Or, at least it always seems to work that way with just a weekend trip to a crowded beach - camping or not!

Puerto Rico offers a feast of opportunities whether it's American franchised food establishments or international tastes of cuisine. But if you're like me when traveling in a foreign country, you like to eat the local food and in PR, that's not always the easiest thing to find. Any typical business strip is filled with the recognizable "Golden Arches", Houlihan's and Chili's, even Tony Roma's Ribs! Prices in these establishments are slightly higher than in the States. You'll also notice the difference in international food restaurants where locals eat vs. very expensive ones catering to tourists and the upper class. Gourmet dining in a cosmopolitan atmosphere has swept PR about as thoroughly as it will sweep out your pockets. No Thanks!

Finding where to sample straight-up Puerto Rican food actualy seems more convenient at home in Spanish Harlem and New York City! When pulling into a town or village, keep your eyes open for where it looks like the locals are stopping. Other clues will be often slightly less cared for buildings and cars parked out front you know aren't being driven by tourists or wealthy types. Signs will be in Spanish; "Comida Creolles" a definite indicator you're on to something. These are the types of inexpensive Mom & Pop eateries becoming harder to find. Also popping up everywhere is a new PR fast-food restaurant, I don't recall the name, specializing in roasted chicken with all the typical side of dishes of rice, beans, tubers, etc. And if all else fails, ask about anyone for recommendations on where to try some local foods.

Read my other dining journal to find out more about local foods.

My favorite local places to eat are the little roadside stands and shacks scattered everywhere around the island along secondary roads and off-the-beaten paths. You''ll often see the cars lined-up along the side of the roads before you realize what they''ve stopped for. The stands/carts are usually selling frituras, also known as pastelitos. These are authentic deep-fried PR treats, often greasy, but certainly declicious.

Some you''ll find are alcapurria - spicy ground beef inside a hush-puppy like fritter; papas or platanos de rellenos - the same spicy meat fried inside of seasoned mashed potatoes or mashed sweet plantains; pastelitos have beef or chicken fried inside of a flour pastry like tortilla pocket; tacos are the same only tightly rolled like a burrito. Bacalaitos are doughy cod-fish cakes.

In addition to soft drinks, carts also sell dulces; typical Puerto Rican sweets or candies hand made fom freshly processed sugar, coconuts, pineapples, spices and other items locally grown. A paragua is a snow cone made from shaved ice and topped with extra sweet thick syrups. Try the Anjanjoli and Tamarindo flavors; they''ve definitely got a unique Caribbean taste!

As what I consider the truest, most unique island dining experience, roadside shacks are normally found on or near beaches, or anywhere else the local population might congregate outside of the town center. In addition to selling pastelies and dulces, they''re also equipped to serve rice and beans (arroz y habicheulas), boiled yuca, yatuia, batata and other potato-like root vegetables known as tubers. And don''t be suprised to find a small pig (lechon) or several chickens (pollo) turning slowly on a spit. (The roast/"asado" pork would be lechon asado).

Seafoods (mariscos) are sometimes found but usually not as common. Be aware that fish are often grilled whole, including the head with the eye, and you''ll need to be extra cautious for bones.

Shacks also offer cold beers (cervezas fria) and sometimes rum. A typical sampler platter with 2-3 beers will never run more than $10.

Items can be packaged to go...as in back to your car or out on the beach, or "dine-in" at one of their little make-shift tables and chairs while looking out towards the ocean, salsa music coming from some where in the distance, wondering if life or food could ever get any better.

Initially, don''t let the shacks'' clap-board "shanty town" appearances scare you away. These haphazard structures are a minimal, legitmate investment against loss from hurricane and when local officials go on campaigns to have these unliscensed eateries eradicated. But don''t fret...they''re never gone for long since most are a source of meager income.

If you're wondering what Puerto Rico might once have been like, then you need to head for Ponce on the southern coast; about one-hour from San Juan by rental car or tour group. The second-largest city of the island still possesses a lot of the original, natural and cultural charm that's been lost in other parts thanks to Americanization and the booming tourist industry.

Whether visiting for a day or planning to spend at least one night, you should anchor your stay near the Plaza Las Delicias in the heart of the historic center. This park-like plaza area is a refreshing stop to sit on a shaded bench while Ponce's thriving daily life circles by and around the plaza...though traffic is never overbearing even at night when young people come out to cruise in their cars. The central plaza includes a modestly plain yet beautiful cathedral, statues of Puerto Rico's heros, a large fountain guarded by lion statues, and the colorful Parque de Bombas; the historical firehouse that now houses a museum with free admission.

Cross the street in any direction off the plaza and you'll find Ponce still has a downtown location that is still very much alive with business. A large variety of stores surround the plaza and side streets where mostly locals shop, making places even better for tourists looking for authentic finds. Leisure-type summer clothes are always an inexpensive haul. There's also a number of small galleries where island creators display their works of art and jewelry.

Most enjoyable has been the city's abilities to maintain a lot of it's environs that have been lost to modernization crazes in Old San Juan. Historical buildings often still contain what they were originally built for...not KFC's, and their architectural styles range anywhere from straight-up, old world Spain to the Victorian-Creole flavor of the Caribbean including many of them being painted with mild pastel colors. Residential neighborhoods are also close to the center; great for leisure walks/looks down shaded streets.

When needing to stay in Ponce, I always return to inexpensive Hotel Belgica at 122 Calle Villa pictured in this journal's accomodations. My favored eatery is two blocks west of Belgica on the corner, though I don't recall the name. You'll likely hear the music and smell the food before you see this open-air establishment ran by a friendly Dominicana named Lourdes.

Ponce also has all your typical "cultural attractions" such as museums, theatre and other sites I've never stayed long enough to actually check out. I'd also recommend driving to the port and taking a walk along the La Gancha boardwalk; especially on a weekend when the beach and area fills up with locals.

PR has designated huge expanses of beaches for the public preventing resorts from coming in, taking over, and privatizing them for their guests only. Sands tend to be more golden than sugary white which indicate less coral reefs off shore. Behind swimming/sunning areas of public beaches, they''re typically clustered with coconut palm groves providing shade.

Beaches seem all but abandoned during the week compared to weekends with hordes of locals and their families celebrating island life. Even if you''re a quiet, solitude person I still suggest checking out a weekend PR beach scene just for the people watching experience.

There''s a minimal fee to park inside the perimeter fences of most public beaches. Otherwise, park outside - walk in for free.

My favorite beach spots line the west coast. where the most photographed beach seen in postcards/posters is BUYE located off highway 307 in the SW district of Cabo Rojo. It''s hard to find, not listed on maps, and you''ll find it private and likely closed once arriving unless it''s a weekend and you pay to enter. Buye, like many other beaches in this area, have been turned into small parks/campgrounds. Sadly to say, they''re not always well maintained should you decide to walk passed facility boundaries.

EL COMBATE in the SW corner claims to have the longest beach in PR with its 3-mile+ stretch. The beach and village have quite the reputation of being the island''s "Spring Break-type" destination...often filled with rowdy, drunken students. Nearby BOQUERON is beautiful situated along the arc of a rather large bay. On an all-but abandoned weekdays, Combate''s reputation still spoke for itself. Families - you definitely want Boqueron!

JOYUDA south of Mayaguez, is the public beach I''d recommend least because it appears average, generic compared to others.

North of Aguadilla is beautiful CRASH BOAT beach with turquoise waters, good snorkeling, and colorfully painted wooden fishing boats scattered along the sands. There''s also an old wooden pier stretching out into the waters that make for great snorkeling territory.

WILDERNESS beach is along the NW point of the island on Ramey Base and definitely worth at least seeing. Take the road which runs back thru the golf course and pull into the free parking/observation area. It''s remotely situated just beneath the cliffs. Depths of the waters create dark green hues, and sunsets are excellent from here or by driving further into the park around the coast where you''ll also find many surfers.

My final recommendation is GUAJATACA beach on the north coast just east of the highways''s 2 & 113 intersection. Look for Guajataca-anything signs as it''s not marked on any map. This is definitely more for checking out the daily local scene than for beach quality. It''s well worth the stop with it''s multitude of snack kiosks and bars, outdoor dance clubs, and a walking trail that follows an abandoned railroad line through a huge tunnel in the side of the cliffs. Multiple trails, breathtaking views are on the other side.

The Panoramic Route, (Ruta Panoramico) is by far Puerto Rico's most popular, talked about driving-related quest. Panoramic, scenic, breathtaking are "understated" words used to describe this adventure that can be rushed/hurried in a day, or leisurely stretched out over two. But for all this "must see and do" is cracked up to be, you'll be left wondering just how many tourists bother taking advantage of this opportunity; sometimes driving quite the distances without even seeing a local pass.
To fully appreciate the drive, know a little of the history behind the areas you'll be driving through. What makes this 165-mile trek so scenic are the narrow country roads winding thru the peaks and valleys of the Cordillera Central; literally, the spin of the island. You'll get a completely different feel for PR in these areas and from than just a mountain environment. It shouldn't surprise you that these isolated areas were last to receive public utilities, paved roadways, and services that brought progress linking the rest of the island to them...not THEM to the REST of the island.
Residence of these areas are known as jibaros (hee-ba-rows); proud people equivalent to America's version of the Hillbilly. During Spain's rule, people ascended to higher elevations developing a sub-culture steeped on personal independence when it came to working a small plot of land doing "just enough" to provide, survive. Socialization, hospitality were also key components.
When America acquired PR in 1898 beginning immediate reform, many others The village of BARRANQUITAS is best for experiencing the passed presence of took to the mountains escaping change evaded only until the last few decades. jibaros; people who now proudly live on in island folklore and music. Barranquitas and TORO NEGRO forest are separately covered in activity-related journals.
I recommend beginning the drive east at Yabucoa and heading west to Mayaguez. Initial roadways between Yabucoa-Cayey are easiest for getting turned around but also easiest for getting back on track. Roads are well marked from Cayey on. Defensive driving is in order thanks to often heavy fog/rains, scenic distractions, narrow roads, and blind "hair pin" curves. Driving a stick-shift can be very frustrating with steep inclines. There are many "photo ops" along the way with few places for pulling over - use discretion.

Somewhere UNDER the rainbow...drivers on the Panoramic Route along PR's Cordillera Central will have their senses of adventure and discovery highly challenged when entering the Reserva Forestal Toro Negro (BLACK BULL FOREST RESERVE). Narrow, winding roads will seem to shrink even smaller dwarfed by the thick, lush vegetations which create tunnel-like barriers for you to navigate through. Perhaps most impressive are the roadside varieties of bamboo and ferns which grow taller than 2-story houses!
El Toro Negro is not classified as a rain forest, though what you'll find is very similar to El Yungue, the Caribbean National Forest. What you WON'T find are hordes of tourists and even locals are far and few between except for weekends, summers and holidays. However there's a trade off for being "lost" in your own tropical world atop the mountain...you're fairly stranded and cut-off from everything should something happen so plan ahead to be prepared.
Highway 143 splits the DON JUAN RECREATION AREA which has several well-marked trails leading to various points of interest including a fairly primitive-styled swimming pool which is fed by fresh mountain waters. (Though I never tried it, I'd imagine the icy waters would be quite refreshing on a hot, humid day.) It's worth the walk just to see this man-made wonder and how it naturally blends with it's lush tropical surroundings. There's also an observation tower within the vicinity I've never checked out, but you might want to consider.
Also from Don Juan Recreation Area, you can catch highway 564 heading north to the Lago de Matrullas; a beautiful lake situated in a deep valley; best sees from the mountain vistas without having to actually drive the entire distance to get there.
If you're heading east-to-west, the final section of forest roads will have you creeping atop the highest points of PR including Cerro de Punta at 4389 ft. (Highest point in the Caribbean is Dominican Republic's Pico Duarte at 10,414 ft.) The PR tourism board has somewhat decent maps but I'd more recommend the greater detailed one in Lonely Planet. You'll need one when passing along the peaks as they're not well marked.
When within the forest denseness, also keep in mind scenic vista points are often hidden; far and few between. When coming to a clearing, be careful how/where you park should you decide to check out the view. When coming to a clearing, be careful where/how you park should you decide to check out the view. Thick clouds/for are common, but should you find clearing skies, you'll lkely be treated to a rainbow...you'll know beyond a doubt you're not in Kansas anymore!
* El Yunque Rainforest is covered in my San Juan journal. Read this journal's activity entries of The Panoramic Route and Barranquitas for nearby related topics of interest.

Punta Jaguey lies on the southwestern-most portion of the island and is definitely a "must see/do" for anyone within the area. The Cabo Rojo lighthouse sits atop the point's crest but the real attractions are the 100m+-high jagged cliffs which sheerly fall into pounding waters below. It's a great place to stop, relax, and get lost within yourself...staring out at the beautiful sea while the winds and thundering tides melt you into a trance. And if the weather and skies are good, it's also what I consider the best place for catching a sunset in PR.
Getting to Punta Jaguey is quite the explorer's expedition unto itself. (This is also a good place to note that a small division of the PR tourism board has a roadside trailer on the west side of highway 100. They've excellent hand-drawn maps which are BEST for finding your way around the compact SW-area.) Follow highway 100 until it T's into 101. A right will take you to Boqueron, but you'll want a left. Then, take a right on highway 301.
If it's your first trip in the southern part of the island, it's a good place to see how dry, arid and almost desert-like conditions are compared to the lush, tropical middle/northern sections. Highway 3301 will take you to the village/beach of El Combate but stay on 301...though you'll be tempted to turn. From this point on, there basicaaly is no road - just a car path that will have you thinking you're heading to no where. Go easy on your tires! The roads are VERY rough!
To your left, you'll notice what looks to be some of the pinkest, lavendar colored waters filling the bay you've ever seen. You're not hallucinating! Major salt extractions from the sea water takes place on both sides of this narrow peninsula creating this phenomenon where sun-hued colors are most vibrant in afternoons.
Keep going on passed the two small hotels- you're still not lost though the roads will become even rougher. You'll eventually come to a stopping point where you'll need to park your car. Follow the beaten pathes upward through the scrub-brush to reach Punta Jaguey, but also keep looking back for impressive views of the salt bays. If there is a downfall to this excursion, it's being so far removed from anything should something happen to your car, or worse yet, become a target for theft/vandalism.
*Other nearby related activity entries in this journal include Beaches and the La Paguera section of Surf-Water Sports.

GETTING AROUND
Aside from maps you might purchase or receive from the main branch of the PR Tourism Board, some of the best navigation tools are hand-drawn local maps which give greater detail, perspective to frequently changing numbered highways as well as intersections where several lesser roadways might converge. These "user-friendly", accurate maps can be found at smaller local bureaus of the Tourism Board within larger towns as well as roadside agencies...such as the Cabo Rojo outpost along highway 101. I highly recommend taking advantage of these resources.

When driving out and about on the island, it''s safe to double normal time allotment for what it would take to drive the same distance in the States. Major interstate routes are usually quick/efficient. Anything else can be circumstantial thanks to weather, traffic congestion, and slow moving vehicles/farm machinery.

HURRICANES
Off-season travelers will get the cheapest rates because it''s hurricane season...generally July thru October. While I''ve never experienced trouble during any of these months, the only hurricane I was ever caught by was Lenny in ''99 - a late storm in mid-November and the only hurricane documented traveling in an opposite, west-to-east direction. Because I could not risk getting stranded, I left within 24-hours of arrival. American Airlines is very accommodating toward flight changes, without extra fees when storm related.

I was one of the lucky one''s who got out. When arriving at the airport, the terminals were already overflowing with people hoping to catch a stand-by flight. That was Tuesday, the airport was closed on Wednesday, and reopened Thursday after the storm had passed with no major damages. I was fortunate to get out - some had to endure that 48-hour hostile wait at the airport so here''s recommendations to help you avoid the same:

1) When booking your package or hotel, ask what your facility''s guidelines are as far as hurricane evacuation policies/procedures, trip refunds, or rescheduling vacation time if a hurricane is anywhere in the Caribbean within 4 days of your departure date. It would seem there''s no set guidelines followed by all hotels. They''re left to their own varied discretion...which obviously had caught so many off guard stranding them at the airport for Lenny ''99.

2) Hurricanes can change course and levels of intensity at any moment. The safest, surest advice is to get out as early, quickly as possible while there''s still time to avoid danger.

3) Rely only on National Weather forecasts and your hotel management for hurricane updates. Locals can sometimes be patronizing with their predictions based on having seen hundreds of storms come and go which caused no damage or danger. This is also why they, too so often get caught off guard!

4) Regardless of your hotels procedures or assurances of safety, consider exactly what you''ll accomplish by staying? If there''s the least bit of doubt or paranoia, get out!

5) When heading for the airport, unless you''ve absolute confirmation you WILL BE BOARDING a plane that day, BE PREPARED!!! "Junk food" and such at San Juan airport seems even more overpriced than U.S. facilities. Stock up on plenty of snacks, drinks, etc. should you end up stuck and waiting over night. Also, pack your carry-on items as potential "over-night" bags.

DRINKING WATER
Tap water is safe and drinkable though it can sometimes be rationed in drought situations; especially water fountains and other public places. Strive to double your normal water intake while here or any Caribbean island. Heat, alcohol and caffeine are key elements for stripping your body of natural fluids which can lead to painful kidney infections within a matter of days.

FRESH FRUITS
DO NOT leave the island without trying some of the fresh fruits! You''ll be surprised at how sweet and juicy they are since they''re allowed to ripen on the vines without being picked green for shipment. Whether from a market, roadside stand, or growing along beaches and roads - there''s nothing like getting all sticky like a 10-year old slurping on a fresh mango, papaya or guava; sitting in the shade of a palm tree and peeling/coring a succulent pineapple to quench your thirst from the heat. There''s also nothing like toolin'' down a palm-ladened coastal road behind the wheel of your rental car, saltwater breezes wafting thru the opened windows, salsa on the radio, and gnawing on a portion of fresh cut sugar cane...like a big ol'' Puerto Rican jibaro!

As for that abundant fruit growing everywhere on the island, use discretion as to if it''s on public or private property. Old-timers tell about "back in the day" when mango stealing was about as bad as crime ever got on the island. If someone''s within sight of where you''re looking to make your haul, simply ask "Puedo tener, por favor"? (Can I have, please?) The answer will usually be si/yes!

FOR THE ROMANTIC...
...in all of us - if you''re near the northwestern point of the island and Ramey Base, here''s another little hidden extra for long after the Happy Hour rum punch and sunsets have faded. Just off of highway 107, you''ll see the airport to the east behind the chain-link fence and to the west is the golf course and road entry which takes you back to Wilderness Beach. When making that turn, notice the area which has been cleared and looks like an unused parking lot. Then, come back after dark and you''ll find the area''s far from unused!

Pull in and around and park trying to position your vehicle so it''s facing and in line with the runway across the road. Military pilots are practicing take-offs and landings most the evenings...the latter coming in with landing gear lights and vibrating rumble right over the tops of cars.

For this area, it seemed to be the equivalent of an old-time drive-in theatre. The romance definitely is pending on who you''re with but from noticing the locals, you might be here a while!