Enticing Kowloon

To reach the beginning of the trail, take bus #1 from the Star Ferry Pier. It took me quite a while to locate this park on any maps offered on websites. It is north and east of the Mong Kok MTR station where Waterloo St and Prince Edward Avenue begin merging. You can also go by taxi and have them take you to Regal Oriental Hotel.

Kowloon Walled City is rich in history. The dramatic changes that have transpired and its current state make it worthy of a visit.

Originally, there was nothing more than a single fort dating back to the 1800s. A mere 700 residents occupied the area inside the walls. Britain occupied Hong Kong in 1841 and the Chinese sent soldiers to Kowloon Walled City. In 1847, the wall was completed. Hong Kong ceded in 1842 to the British and in 1860 Kowloon followed. The fort became a military post to monitor British influence as well as police the Chinese side of the harbor. The British agreed to the arrangement as long as troops didn’t interfere with their rule, Nonetheless they attacked in 1899 leaving the Chinese to abandon it, although per the treaty it remained theirs. At this point, nobody was taking responsibility for governing the city. Hence, the decline of Kowloon Walled City’s began. Squatters moved in until the Japanese occupation forced them out and tore down walls to enlarge a nearby airfield. This was the first demolition of the city.

After the war, drug dealers, prostitutes, and thieves inhabited the city. Eviction attempts to the nearly 10,000 inhabitants and 2500 arrests failed to clean up the place. In 1984, Britain and China agreed to flush out the slums. In 1993 again demolished, it opened as a park in 1995.

The restored original fort, remnants of the walls, a couple of cannons, and a few other relics are reminiscent of the past. Historic plaques provide descriptions of some the nearly unrecognizable ruins as well as stone wells and gates. Several buildings surround a courtyard where old black and white photographs of the past show the dilapidated run down shacks of Kowloon Walled City.

Today, Kowloon Walled City also contains parks, gardens, and pavilions. Waterfalls tumble down from the corner of the park with a stream and pools that meander through the Zodiac garden and fragrance flower walk. A peaceful tranquil setting was achieved without detracting from the original area.

On the other side of the wall is a large modern park with bicycle and running tracks, basketball courts, and soccer fields. I couldn’t help notice the major of the people inside the wall were older, while youngsters filled the other park. I wondered how many people lived through the changes. The neighborhood surrounding the area was void of both tourists and souvenir shops. Amazing to think that the only thing separating two completely different worlds was an old grey stone wall.

The highly touted and photographed Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple is located west of the Sha Tin KCR station. Combine this visit with a walking tour of Sha Tin, mentioned in another journal entry for a complete day enjoying some of Hong Kong’s history and culture.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple is so much more than what the name implies. I really don’t know where to begin. So, I’ll start with the path that leads there. At the end of asphalt path are hundreds of steep steps winding among the trees to the first level. Life-size statues akin to Buddha line the stairs on both sides one right after another. Not that I was getting winded—of course not—but I stopped along the way to admire the details. Completely gold, the sunlight that made in through the trees created quite a reflection. Some had facial hair, some had hoods and all had bright red lips. Each was holding something from a musical instrument to a scroll. At the top I discovered the statues were number and there were over 500.

The lower floor contains pavilions, statues, arhats, temples, a pagoda, and a vegetarian restaurant. The pagoda is 9 stories, with walls of red and eaves of golden yellow. The base in lined with golden arhats and small Buddhas in different positions line the eaves. A spiral staircase inside the pagoda houses several more Buddhas. Manjusri and Samantabhadra, Buddha’s most important assistants, are displayed larger-than-life in pavilions on either side of the tower. Manjusri, known for wisdom and bravery, aptly sits on a blue lion while Samantabhadra has reasoning abilities, performs noble deed and rides on a white elephant. Both are one of the ten disciples to the founder of Buddhism placing them on a high rung of the ladder.

Inside the courtyard are the 18 Arhats that were originally the perfect fulfilment of life but have given way to the higher attainment of Buddha. Although there are a few hundred Arhats, these 18 are known for special qualities and people often give offerings to them. Arhats have reached enlightenment through discipline and practice as has Budhha, but they have chosen to postpone nirvana and instead help others reach their level—a very unselfish act. In spite of this, I have always viewed the Arhats as whimsical or fairy like creatures because of the statues I have seen. Sometimes it is difficult to take a character seriously who is portrayed surfing on the head of lobster, having legs twice the length of his torso, an arm so long a right-fielder would be jealous, or having a Cheshire cat grin. I guess deities can have a sense of humor and childlike qualities just as mankind.

Take the MTR to Kowloon Tong Station, transfer to the KCR East Rail to the Tai Wai KCR Station. Once a walled city known for incense, now it is known for temples and trails. A footbridge complete with signs, indicates the way to the Che Kung Temple on Che Kung Miu Road.

Sha Tin Villagers dedicated a Taoist temple to honor former military general Che Kung who defended the area from floods and plague during the Song Dynasty. Even the Emperor honored him for quelling an uprising in China. Now Che Kung is worshipped for the good luck he brings the town. The temple features a huge statue of him clad in armor with his hands resting on a sword pointed into the ground and incense pots by his shoes. There is also an excellent display of various weapons attached to the end of long poles.

Moreover a copper windmill brings good luck to those that turn the fan and beat the drum. Due to the increasing popularity of the Che Kung Festival, the Chinese Temples Committee had the present temple built in 1993. On the other hand, the old temple, albeit rebuilt, remains and is open from 6 to 7. Unfortunately photography is not permitted inside the temple.

Continue east on Che Kung Miu Road following signs to Tsang Tai Uk Village via a tunnel crossing Lion Rock Road. Tsang Tai Uk, far from being the oldest village, was built about 130 years ago by a stonemason, apparently wealthy enough to build an entire village for his family lineage. This explains why the appearance of this town and architecture differs from surrounding vicinities. Figures and objects on roofs are there to deter the evil spirits.

On Lion Rock Road heading west, cross the bridge of the Shing Mun River Channel to the museum. Hong Kong Heritage Museum includes a dozen galleries connected by corridors designed in typical Chinese style. Displays of art, history, and cultural items both permanently and temporarily exhibited fill the various rooms. The 5-storey museum has a souvenir shop and café and is open from 10 to 6, closed on Tuesdays.

On the other side of Lion Rock Road is Sha Tin Park, an expansive green park paralleling the river. With waterfalls, bridges, and banyan trees this is an excellent place to take a picnic break. The scenery provides serene photo opportunities. The area is open 6: 30-11.

The path in the park leads to signs indicating the way to the Central Library and Town Hall. There are a variety of dance and musical performances and exhibits. Directly opposite is the New Town Plaza with shops and restaurants open until 10pm. Signs indicate the way to the Sha Tin KCR station or cross Tai Po Road to visit the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery.

Nightly at 8pm, Hong Kong’s magnificent skyline comes alive with a light show. The display can be seen from the promenades of Hong Kong and Kowloon, the peak, and boat cruises. There is much more to the production than meets the eye, literally.

A series of five scenes, approximately 20 minutes each, builds to the climax of the event much like that of a finale at a fireworks show. Beginning with the ‘Awakening’ searchlights pierce the sky symbolizing the beginnings and growth of Hong Kong. Next ‘Energy’, presented by sweeping lasers and beams color the sky, imitates the vibrancy of the city. Red and gold, colors of luck and royalty, reflect the ’Heritage’ and culture that is China. Lights connecting one building to another and across the harbor indicate the ’Partnership’ between the lands on each side of the water. More energy, color, lights and movement bring the ’Celebration’ to a finale with the hope of a brighter, no pun intended, future.

You can hear the corresponding music and descriptions in English on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Friday nights along the promenade on both the Hong Kong and Kowloon side of the harbor. Twenty-one buildings in Hong Kong and 11 in Kowloon participate in the night show. Bank of America starts the show off with 3 flood lights. Next the zigzag bamboo patterns flashes with white lines. More long beams of light pierce the sky form the HSBC and IFC buildings as the drum music comes to a crescendo.

As the music continues Cheung Kong Center, Hopewell, Museum of Arts and Cultural Center add brilliant colors. The latter is by far my favorite. Multiple shades of pink and red dissolve into yellow and orange, then to blue and purple and finally green and blues.

Nearby buildings reflect the show on odd shaped mirror sidings to add an additional dimension. Since the mirrors themselves are colored, new colors are created in the reflections.

Vitasoka, the guardian of the temple, is clad in full armour and adorn with fierce weapons. He resides in a pavilion just outside the monastery. Another pavilion houses Kun Yam, Goddess of Mercy who is able to assume any shape to better aide those in need.

The crowning glory, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple, has more than 13,000 identical gold-plated ceramic Buddhas filling the walls of the temple. Although the sizes are uniform, the poses differ. Courtesy of worshippers and made by an artisan from Shanghai, the number of Buddhas continues to increase.

Temple of the Ner Tor, also called Amita Buddha Temple, contains the gold-plated 45’ high Amita Buddha who purportedly brings worshippers to his paradise after death. The preserved body of founder of the monastery, Reverend Yuet Kai, rests in a display case next to Amita.

The ancestral worship halls contain the names and pictures of loved ones along with urns serve as reminders. Outside paper versions of money, food, homes etc… burn as offerings to the deities on behalf of deceased relatives.

The upper level contains 4 temples, 2 of which, the Goddess of Mercy and God of Heavens are currently closed. In the Candi Buddha Temple resides Candi, mother of all Buddhas with 1000 eyes and arms to save her people from suffering and Kwan Tei, God of Righteousness who punishes bad behaviour and rewards good deeds. This pair is akin to earthly parents and therefore being housed in the same temple seems only appropriate.

The upper level, while equally as fascinating as the lower, is nonetheless different. The characters along the stairs change from being only male and completely gold to being both sexes in very colorful costumes. Moreover the statues are mostly women, many with something reminding me of halos.

So many interesting characters, it would be impossible to read descriptions on all of them, if there had been any available. Still, I would like to have read an overview on the differences.

Take time to take it all in. It is marvelous.