a whirlwind weekend in barcelona

arriving in a country where i neither spoke the language or knew anyone there who did, this was truly a leap of faith. but, barcelona is arguably one of the most tourist-friendly cities i've visited in europe. it's also a city walker's dream with its pedestrian-friendly "las ramblas" feeding into the moll d'espanya, the pier that offers mediterranean views, access to ferries and even myriad benches on which to picnic and watch the fish swim by. the city is peppered with architectural wonderments by gaudì, including the renowned sagrada familia cathedral and the parc güell at the city's northern edge. the influences of architecture constructed for the olympic games are also abundant. in my estimation, the trip would not be complete without visits to art galleries dedicated to two of spain's most famous artists, mirò and picasso.

Quick Tips:

the side streets that feed off of the las ramblas strip offer wonderful small shops and tapas resturants to duck into and enjoy. if you delve deeply enough, you will invariably arrive at one of the many plaças, or open squares, where you can find street vendors as well as enjoy local performers and festivals.

Best Way To Get Around:

i was able to access all the places i wanted either by walking or using the city's comprehensive underground train system. although i opted for a taxi upon arrival to get me to my hotel, i used the public bus system to return to the airport, which was easy to catch in the plaça de catalunya and significantly less expensive. in addition, the bus allowed me one long last look at the city before my arrival at the airport.

the hotel itself was nicely appointed, thereby earning its four stars, with a large bed, television and fairly-sized bathroom. the downside to this hotel is that it is located in a small town outside of the city limits, requiring one to take a suburban train (about a 30 minute ride) into the heart of barcelona. in addition, the walk to the train station takes about 10 minutes, making the venture into town that much more challenging and ultimately obviating the rationale behind paying such high rates. i had originally booked into this hotel because there was a festival going on the weekend i traveled and there were apparently to rooms to be had in town. i subsequently did some legwork once i arrived and managed to locate a more convenient lodging option.

this hotel is located right in the heart of downtown barcelona, facing the façade of the 13th century catedral in the gothic quarter, just a few minutes'' walk off the las ramblas strip. the rooms are charming and bright, with generous bathrooms and all the amenities. the staff was particularly friendly and helpful.

tapas bars abound in barcelona, and you'd be doing yourself and your appetite a great disservice not to try as many of them as you can. fares range from small tastes of local cheeses and breads to more substantial offerings when ordered in multiples and mixed and matched. in this way, you can try tapas as snacks to pepper a long day of sightseeing or as full sit-down meals enhanced by wonderful local wines.

this place is what you would expect to find if you crossed alice in wonderland with les tuileries. it's the only park i've ever been to where the fantastic flora are outshined by the impossible combination of antigravitational architectural flourishes and the cacophonous colors of magnificent mosaic tilework abounding on benches and fountains and walls and ceilings.

to get there, you must take the metro train to lesseps and climb a fantastic run of steps (escalators are provided for the energy preservationist), but the ascent is well worth the expenditure. you can also opt to go an extra stop on the train to vallcarca and enter from a different entry point. either way, plan to spend at least half a day there taking in all of the many different sections of the park. it's invigorating!

although i spent only three days total in barcelona, i was compelled to devote nearly an entire day to this cathedral which is manifestly a work in progress (evidenced at first glance by the towering cranes supporting the sky-high spires). the entrance fee of 800 pesetas is contributed directly to the ever-continuing construction and restoration of the cathedral, a true appreciation of the extent of which can be gleaned only from exploring its myriad passageways and spires. there are points at which you can literally witness several discrete periods of construction marked by the different kinds of building materials that were used at any given time. this building has been under construction since the early 19th century, and its progress can be tracked pictorally in an exhibit that shows photos dating back to its earliest days as a classic-looking iconic structure. i look forward to going back periodically to be able to witness the growth myself, and yet i doubt that it will be completed even within my lifetime.

the entrance fee to this site (1000 pesetas for full access) can be selected to include all areas of the building, which include the espai gaudì (installed in the attic where a series of drawings, maquettes and photos can give the visitor a deeper understanding of the the architect's life in cultural and historial context) and the apartment and rooftop "garden" space. i highly recommend seeing all areas to get the fullest sense of the space and its historical value. if nothing else, the view from the rooftop is spectacular!

take some time to take in the sights that require no entrance fees. a statue of christopher columbus points outward over the water, toward the americas(?) and is surrounded by regal lion statues. take a sunset ferry ride from the port and watch the city diminish in the distance (and bring a sweater!). stroll along the moll despanya. it's all free!

i had the good fortune to stumble into town the weekend of this annual event, which poured through the city with musical and staged events, dancing and revelry and culminated in a parade that streamed through the streets of barcelona with floats and participants wearing giant papier-maché heads depicting historcial events and personnages. onlookers were supplied with bags of confetti to throw at the parade as the participants glided by. the most beautiful moment took place when paper flower votive holders were distributed to the crowd and hundreds of couples took to the open square-cum-dance floor and waltzed with lit candles in hand. it was ephemeral!