Hilo - The Other Side of the Big Island

You can drive the loop roads around the park, but you shouldn't! Be sure to get out and experience the park. There is so much to see and do, we actually suggest you plan on two trips to this incredible marvel. You'll want one day to drive and walk around the various volcano craters and lava flows and another to take in the park AFTER DARK to see the lava flow at night.

On this trip we only did the later. Arriving at the visitor center at 3:30pm, we got a briefing from the park rangers regarding watching the lava flows that evening. As you drive down the Chain of Craters Road, take time to stop and hike to the Mauna Ulu Crater. Plan on it taking around an hour each way. We arrived a bit too late on this trip but still suggest you plan on including it on your trip down Chain of Craters Road. On this particular night it was clear, with a full moon. It was a spectacular evening to hike beyond the end of the Chain of Craters Road over old lava flows to see the current eruptions down the mountainside and into the sea below. Be sure to wear strong, sturdy shoes or hiking boots and long pants. You will also have to have a powerful flashlight (one for each person in your party!) and plenty of water. We were at the park about 2 weeks after the bench collapse of over 40 acres of newly formed land. When the lava flows into the ocean, creating new land, it is still relatively unstable. DO NOT IGNORE THE ADVICE OF THE PARK RANGERS AND WARNING SIGNS IN THE PARK! If they say "unsafe" and "do not enter," you should heed their warnings. This is very unpredictable and can cause you harm, including death.

NOTE: Be sure to click on the photos to enlarge them. Because most were taken after dark, you won't be able to see the hot flowing lava in these small thumbnail pics.

Just south of Hilo on the easternmost area of the Big Island is Puna. No area has been affected more by the volcanic activity of recent years. Entire towns have been buried by flowing lava, lives lost and property forever taken away. Plan on this being a long day if you are staying over in the Kailua-Kona area.

For us, we made it a fuller day by starting with the Saddle Road ride from Kona to Hilo! (We do not suggest that.) Going south from Hilo, take Highway 130 to 132 and then on to 137. This will put you right along the ocean, driving through lush forest and some rather amazing homes. You will also see some of the poorest areas of the Big Island. Be careful, as there are a lot of throwback hippie types living off the land, hitchhiking to get to wherever they need to be. Quoting from "Hawaii The Big Island Revealed" about the town of Pahoa: "Known as the Big Island's outlaw town, this is where guerrilla gardeners (pakololo farmers), dreadlock enthusiasts, FBI fugitives and the never-bathe crowd coexist . . ." With that being said, the road trip is not to be missed!!!! If you drive down 137 along the ocean, you'll see beautiful black-sand beaches that are accessible if you can find a place to park the car, small lava tidal pools that are warmer than bath water, and some huge coconuts that are free for the picking up along the roadside.

At the very end of the 137 road, you will literally dead-end into where a lava flow took out the town and road. There are a couple of small vendors set up there with gift shops. You can park your car and hike up on the lava flows. It is safe so long as you don't go too far. There are signs warning hikers of where the land maybe too fragile to walk. From this point, we were able to see the steam plume rising from the current flow into the ocean. Even during the daylight this is an amazing thing to witness.

The drive along this stretch of Highway 19 can be very long and boring. Don't let that frustrate you or cause you to lull yourself into missing what sights there are along your journey. Going north away from Hilo, there are several places to pull off to see beautiful waterfalls. Be sure to take the side-road trip up to Akaka Falls. The turnoff is between mile markers 13 and 14.

This state park is beautiful and offers two hikes that are fairly easy. The large waterfall here plummets a whopping 420 feet. The walk is very beautiful, through a very thick forest of bamboo and other rainforest-type vegetation. Be sure to take advantage of the decent restrooms here (not porta-potties), as you won't see another public restroom for what will seem like an eternity!

After you leave this park, continue north on Highway 19. At about the 16 mile marker, you will cross over a large gorge that has two nice waterfalls. You will be able to pull off safely to park your car and get out. The water from Akaka Falls flow down here and empties into the Hakalau Bay beneath you. The views are spectacular!

There are a lot of nice state parks throughout the Big Island. There are two that bear mentioning, due to their unique natural features created by lava (Lava Tree State Park) and water (Akaka Falls State Park). They are on opposite sides of Hilo, one about 30 minutes north and the other about 45 minutes south, but they are well worth the excursion if you are out enjoying a leisurely day trip around Hilo.

Lava Tree State Park
Highway 132, South of Hilo
Near Pahoa, Puna Region

As with most of the region around Hilo, this is a very dense forest with a lot of thick brush and large trees. Lava Tree State Park is a preserved area that shows you what happens to the trees after lava runs through a forest. The lava coats the trees, and when the tree dies from within, the hollow "lava tree" is formed. This area had a lot of very fragile ground and huge gashes in the ground where the lava erupted. This volcanic activity took place in 1790. If you get out and walk around, be sure to stay on the path, and don't venture into the unmarked breaks in the earth. There are warning signs throughout the park to be careful walking due to the deep crevices in the ground.

There are limited restroom facilities here, but they were frankly too scuzzy for me to consider using. There really isn’t a lot to do or see here, allow yourself about 40-45 minutes to fully explore the area here.

To get to Lava Tree Park you will need to take Hwy. 11 south of Hilo (or heading towards Hilo if you are coming from Kona). Turn right on Hwy. 130 and proceed on to Hwy. 132.

Akaka Falls State Parks
10 miles North of Hilo
Near Honomu

The bamboo forest is thick and wet, almost like a continual mist upon you. (Take bug repellent!) There wasn't much wildlife and only a few birds but the plants and flowers were beautiful. I saw my first Bird of Paradise flower in the wild here! I also saw bamboo stalks that had to have been at least three or even four inches thick.

For those who are unable to walk long distances or over steep grades, take the shorter path (to the left) towards the Akaka Falls. The hike is about 15 minutes each way and provides for a good view of the tallest of the falls in this park. That will lead you to the taller of the waterfalls here in Akaka Falls State Park. You can't get very close to it, but the view point gives you a wonderful photo op of the spectacular 400+ foot waterfall. The other path is a bit longer and more rugged a hike. It leads to the Kuhuna Falls via the circle route. The full loop path is about one-half mile.

This was a very well maintained state park, which had very nice restrooms, drinking water fountains and a picnic area. For us this was an hour stop on our road trip to Hilo. The detour was well worth the trip!

This was a very special trip for us. My mother-in-law is getting older (aren't we all) and lives pretty far from us. We had a great time. As you can see from these photos, they are both very happy!!

There is another reason for my posting this particular journal. As you can see from the variety of activities we did here, Hawaii is a place where families can vacation together. In spite of the nearly 30 years difference in ages, we were able to do a lot. Of course, everyone must pace themselves and not do more than physically they feel comfortable with. For instance, she didn't hike the Volcano NP with us after dark, but she enjoyed the trip and was able to stop at the end of the Chain of Craters Road and await our return on a comfy picnic table bench. She loved the beaches and watched as we snorkeled.

Being an active senior, she enjoying the walking tours of the coffee plantations and other historical sites, like those found at Nu'uanu Pali State Wayside and Lava Tree SP. While we do not have children, I'm very confident that three generations can vacation in Hawaii and have a wonderful time experiencing ALOHA!