The Outlandish Bounty of Boquete

Lounged around a graphic chasm, the unfamiliar locale of Boquete is encompassed by mountains that bulge in tiered prominence until crowned by the pinnacle of Panama. Volcán Barú commands these Chiriquí Highlands at 3,478m/11,477ft. Periodic tremors still respectfully humble the vast domain, even though the volcano hasn't blown in more than half a millennium. Until eruption re-depletes the landscape, the frontier continues to flourish amid dormant legacies cultivating the most exquisite of reminders.

Boquete lives up to its Spanish name, which signifies gap or narrow entrance. Drop the "e" and Boquet is as seasonable an autograph. Rich volcanic loam furnishes signature for the village that's established as Panama's flower and coffee epicenter. A pair of festivals may lionize the endowments, but reasons to celebrate transpire on any given day.

The valley fosters an edenistic setting almost too good to be true, or one that's reserved for fairy tales in the very least. Regardless of how many times the small settlement was perused, I was still captivated by make-believe tangibles; the kind which devise happy endings that could only be proceeded by the transporting words,

"Once upon a time..."
Entering into Boquete is revelation, like a prolonged homecoming to a place you never realized you'd been searching for. So the nearest beach was 90 minutes away. Bits and pieces of everything else I treasure in life were cupped within this vessel of paradise. Exotic yet familiar, these Highlands meld the distinctions that fantasies are made of, absorbed whether sitting perfectly still or exploring to heart's content.

Vitality is further magnified with each inhalation of the crisp mountain air saturated by fragrant blends of blossoms and resins; the dubious potion from where alpine meets tropical with harmonious verdancy beyond conception. Ever green, towering conifers reign over resplendent gardens that blaze with bougainvillea and kaleidoscopic arrays. Nourished by the tropical sun, unbearable heat departs at these altitudes. Sweeping clouds linger with refreshments of shadows and vapors; a windfall for all that venerates life, including the people.

Vintage Spaniards and Ngöbe Buglé Indians circulate throughout this Magic Kingdom with social deportments that are anything but staged performances. Simple pleasantries and lifestyles further complement this unadulterated haven. Mankind and Mother Nature combined have never been so inviting, so inspiring. Then again, I'd never heard of Boquete, where everything, everyone, seems to live happily ever after.

Quick Tips:

IGo Ghetto
a day will have budget travelers existing like nobility, indulging minimal splurges on accommodations, feasting on three generous meals, and still with spending money leftover. Unless opting for organized tours, independent explorations throughout the entire region are possible, with the only cost being a .00 admission to the National Park. Shoestring travelers can live it up on a day.

Mist Kissed
Boquete is known for its bajareque, the mist that settles in each afternoon, ranging from inconspicuous moisture to heavy drizzle. For the most part, it was a welcomed coolant at day's end; not that conditions were ever unbearable. Heading off to steamy Central America, need for warmer clothing isn't what most anticipate, but during the rainy season in upper elevations, overnight temperatures can dip towards freezing! Here's a list of Packing Tips and Suggestions.

The Extreme Pedestrian
For such a sleepy, peaceful village, Boquete is best known as Panama's Adventure Capital, and certainly lives up to the billing no matter what your definition. Never had I traveled anywhere that provided such challenging, comprehensive opportunities. Between rural roadways looping through gorgeous foothills, and trails that rummage peaks and forests, 2 weeks wouldn't begin to cover everything while alternating days for downtime recovery. Even local guides are hesitant to schedule a second, demanding venture within the same week, so travelers should be prepared to physically push themselves, and pay for it later!

A follow-up journal of Parque Nacional Volcán Barú will herald the stunning hiking and bird-watching fortunes launched from Boquete, but these are hardly the adventure limits. The best white-water rafting opportunities for Central America are said to be along the nearby Río Chiriquí and Río Chiriquí Viejo, which rage off the Continental Divide.

Chiriquí River Rafting is Panama's highest recommended outfitters, and locally owned. Availabilities are dictated by rainfall, but advanced reservations are necessary, especially for single/double participants. I was more than willing to spend the , but was unable to coordinate scheduling. Their office is on Avenida Central, southwest of the Central Plaza.

Excursion companies are popping up everywhere offering guided hikes, bird-watching, coffee-estate tours, canopy zip-line adventures, extreme x-country biking, and a host of other activities. The cheapest, most popular half-day trip was to the Caldera Hot Springs and nearby petroglyphs, but locals cautioned that it's no more than an unimpressive mudhole.

Best Way To Get Around:

There's only one way in and out of Boquete along a narrow, two-lane highway that connects through David. The distance separating the two is only about 40km, but the drive takes well over an hour, thanks to heavy usage. Traffic stalls behind large loads sputtering along slopes, and pubic transportation making frequent stops. Passing is risky, but relax and enjoy the scenic roadway with Volcán Barú looming off to the side.

Just outside of Boquete, a new highway is designated for reaching the town of Caldera. If driving to/from Bocas del Toro, use this connection instead of back-tracking to David.

The City of David
Particulars for what to expect in David affect all travelers, whether arriving by plane, bus or rental car. From the bus station, hourly school buses depart for Boquete from Ánden 13, costing .45. The first bus leaves around 6:00am, but there's discrepancies for latter departures. For whatever reasons, schedules keep changing and there wasn't a final 9:30pm bus as Lonely Planet suggests.

Around Boquete
All buses to/from David are found along northern side of the Central Plaza. The first bus leaves at 5:30am, the last around 9:00pm, with hourly service throughout the day.

Lesser transportation routes fan out through the Chiriquí Highlands, and are mainly used by locals living in rural areas. A few of the banged-up vans stop along the plaza's Avenida Central, but most base from one-block north around the Supermercado. Actual use depends on how well you learn the area; something difficult since maps are severely lacking. Chances are you won't know where you're actually heading in rural areas. Once out and about, frequent transportation stops or vans passing along the roads make returning to Boquete quite easy and inexpensive should you poop out amid jaunts.

Within Boquete, everything is within easy walk distance, and I highly recommend exploring every side street and area of this picturesque village where more of the same is still colorfully unique.

Taxis regularly serve the town and surrounding areas. Anytime they see travelers walking, they'll slow down, honk horns, and offer a ride. Drivers rarely speak English, but negotiate a fare before ever getting into the vehicle. In addition to cars, taxis may also include trucks where multiple passengers also ride in back.

Stepping off the bus in Boquete, you'll quickly know if there's vacancies at Sueños Del Río Guesthouse. A timid lady, carrying notebook full of bilingual information describing pictures of the homey set-up she owns, unsuspectingly greets new arrivals in the Central Plaza. Once settling the non-Spanish speakers from the bus, Sueños was the only place left with any availabilities; slightly pricier than many establishments, but certainly worth it!

This pleasant guesthouse is located two blocks east of the Central Plaza, heading towards the large yellow suspended bridge. Before crossing, take a left on the unnamed street and Sueños is ahead on the right. Other than the sign hanging out front, the place looks like a pair of well-maintained homes, which they are if travelers are searching for something different.

There are four rooms split between the two sides priced at $10 for singles and $15 for two. Each has a comfortable double bed and newly remodeled private bathroom, including showers with hot water. What the small quarters lack in furnishings are excusable with large plush towels, scented soaps, and extra touches from home. With Boquete's crisp mountain air, fans aren't even necessary and guests may want to consider pajamas for snuggling under bedspreads.

A small living area on either side includes couch and chairs, television and VCR, dining table and counter, as well as kitchen with refrigerator and stove where guests can prepare meals. A backyard patio, graced with flowers and papayas, overlooks the Río Caldera and fairground gardens, a perfectly tranquil setting, even when returning to find a large Holstein steer had wandered in to enjoy views.

Preparing to leave for the weekend, consideration was for returning to Boquete's most popular budget accommodation; Pensión Marilós (507-720-1380). The place has distinction where single rooms with shared-bath start at $6.50. Twice while waiting for the owner, I also noticed younger guests coming in and out with inevitable commotions. Paying minimal extra to remain at Sueños was worth the comforts and privacies of a place guaranteed to feel like "home".

Sueños del Río, turquoise-green as seem from the bridge, seems to attract an older, quiet clientele unlike Boquete Hostal next door, which justifies slightly higher prices with elevated deck and laundry service.

Sueños only downfall is the lesser of two noise factors. Front rooms face the loading docks and generators in back of Romero Supermercado. Back rooms have incessant roarings of Río Caldera. Closing slated windows slightly fades sound. Light sleepers should consider earplugs for anywhere in Panama. Birds are prompt as 5:00am alarms.

The owner's name is Izza, a hard-working single mother living in nearby Caldera. She's usually only around of a morning to clean and check in new arrivals, and works by the honor system, with no hurry to collect before guests leave. Reservations can be made by calling 507-720-2736 or 507-601-7771. If you don't speak Spanish, please send me an IGO message to help with arrangements.

Savory, tasty and delicious are the three English descriptions associated with the Spanish word sabroso, and El Sabrosón Restaurante certainly lives up to its namesake in either language. This Boquete mainstay surpasses with quality and quantity of regional specialties, and was hands-down favorite of anywhere I ate while in Panamá.

Located a couple of blocks north of the central plaza on Avenida Central, they're open from 6:30am - 10:30pm. Popularity keeps this establishment quite busy, and travelers may find prices even more irresistible than the food. The cafeteria-style buffet has the greatest amount of selections found anywhere in town, a place where it's as big a challenge to break the $3 price range from loading up a tray as it will be to finish everything on plates!

Whether it's the fresh mountain air or physical exertions put forth, El Sabrosón commands a ravenous approach. It's possible to enjoy every meal here while in Boquete and never eat the same thing twice. Various styles of preparations evolve for entrees and side dishes each time a pan gets changed. As if what's on the buffet won't instigate droolings in trying to decide, don't exclude wall to the rear, which is scribbled with a confounding amount of seafood selections prepared to order.

The trout (trucha) was absolutely best I've ever had! Fillets are pan-grilled to perfection with a lite garlic sauce that encrusts the outer layer while flavorfully basting the fish that almost melts in your mouth. Trout costs $3.25, and is served with choice of white rice, french fries, or patacones; fried plantain slices called tostones in most other countries. The loaded yellow rice, which usually includes chunked chicken, peas and flavorful seasonings, upped the cost to $4.75 including a drink.

A well-rounded breakfast, with eggs, meat, cheese, bread and juice went for $1.75, while lunch and dinner plates, with entree and side items, averaged $2.75. There was nothing tried that I wouldn't recommend.

There's a large cooler with soft drinks and juices, but the majority of patrons drink water. Glasses are racked next to the cashier, and there's a large thermal cooler off to the side. Random water pitchers are also scattered about on tables.

El Sabroson's dining area is congested with elongated family-style tables a dozen people can crowd around. During peak hours, trays with dirty dishes can pile up as a secondary priority. You may have to clear a spot before eating, but also take your tray away when leaving. An undesignated table was usually overflowing as the dump station.

There's a small bakery case, but better opportunities await at El Jardín Panadería, across the street in the next block heading towards the plaza. If saving room for dessert, this is the place! Slabs of cakes, pastries and cookies average 50¢, and is also a great breakfast alternative, or for stocking up rooms.

Here's a general overview on Food & Dining while in Panama.

When soliciting recommendations of places to eat, Java Juice kept making the list of locals' favorites based on a very unsuspecting "must try". Considering Boquete's numerous eateries, cheeseburgers were the last things I expected while in Panamá. Interested in feeding curiosity, it became quickly obvious why this place was so readily endorsed, and stopping here becomes addictive!

Java Juice is Boquete's health-conscious establishment nonchalantly blessing juices, salads and vegetarian dishes on sign out front. That's all and good, but my sensible regiment has never shied away from carnality, and what could a place like this know about burgers? Enough to prove why they're frequently mentioned!

Sinking your teeth into one of these loaded cheeseburgers was guilty pleasure, provided you even knew where to begin. Thickness was stacked so high even with a single patty, fitting this enticement in your mouth was a worthy endeavor. The beef has that undeniable backyard flavor thanks to a gas grill behind the counter, also used for lightly toasting buns. Assemblage includes generous tomato slices, lettuce, and cheese, and they'll add condiments of choice that aren't found on the counter. Stopping at one was difficult, but ensured that repeat visits were compulsory.

A single patty cheeseburger is $1.25. Doubles are $1.75 and triples $2.75. For the bonafide carnivorous, the Supreme multiple-patty burger also includes slices of turkey and ham, for $3.00. Where the establishment quickly retreats to health consciousness is there are no sides available, such as fries or chips. For those who can't live without the extras, they won't mind if you bring something from the corner store.

Returning from an all-day hike, I had a stomach-driven delusion of eating a grilled chicken salad along with a single cheeseburger. Java's salads are meals unto themselves, and where vegetarians can clean up. There's an ample list of various combinations, but even when adding grilled chicken or salmon, prices never rose above $2.75. The grilled chicken also had that backyard smack against the pile of fresh greens that required a second helping of the oil-based dressing. Thinking I'd eat the salad and save the burger for later, irresistible nibbles eventually cleaned both plates as a very satiated customer.

In addition to burgers, Java also has sandwiches trimmed as abundantly with turkey, ham, salami or tuna for $1.75. Grilled chicken, or combinations of the other cuts are modestly priced at $2.00. Washing everything down is the other delight with blended batidos, fruit smoothies, worth the swill at $1.25. A cooler full of helados ice creams suffices as drop-in snacks because dessert was out of the question!

Open from 10:00am-10:00pm, Java Juice is located on Avenida Central, half a block south of the plaza. Panamanian owners draw local and traveling crowds to their grassroots environment that's as enjoyable as the food. The interior matches an old general store with hardwood floors, overhead palmetto fans, and walls upholstered with burlap coffee bags. There's also a covered patio in front affording leisure views along the busy avenue.

Boquete celebrates with a pair of renowned festivals attracting crowds from Panama and Costa Rica. The Flower and Coffee Festival is largest, running 10 days in January. The Orchid Festival, a 6-day revelry in April, is part of observances for the Chiriquí Province anniversary.

Arriving in time for the Orchid Festival was an unexpected treat of celebration and education regarding these delicate blossoms that have long fascinated. More than 1,200 species of orchids burgeon in Panama, and can be found growing wild just about everywhere. Locals pride themselves on gardens which burst from the rich, volcanic soil, but flaunting prize possessions at this festival was something to behold.

Events and activities never got underway until the sun went down, and grew in momentum as the night progressed. The fairgrounds are a sprawling, manicured garden with an awe-inspiring assortment of flowers and tropical plants hemming the various sections which make for pleasant strolls, day or night. Blended into the scenery, scattered kiosks circulate their own fragrances with brewed coffees and fresh-baked pastries.

A large stage on the central lawn is where crowds began gathering after 8:00pm. Pageantry and fanfare included all the social formalities while honoring distinguished guests, gardeners and notables making contributions and sacrifices for upholding the all-but-sacred floral codes. I was impressed and amused by all that transpired; Latinos always finding a way to make the biggest ado over the least significant things, while keeping the crowd mesmerized.

With no seating availabilities, everyone stood for hours; applauding and cheering on cue, until the grand finale which ushered in a nightly dance; usually with live music. Even if you don't understand Spanish, the whole scenario was captivating and unparalleled for people watching.

In addition to Boquete's elite, Ngöbe Buglé Indians descend from the mountains. The ladies are always dressed in colorful array, but a festival calls for their very best with long skirts, shawls, beaded jewelry and accessories which a movie company's wardrobe department could never surpass. At times, surroundings felt as fictional as an outdated motion picture that belonged on an IMAX screen. Better yet, admission to this G-rated extravaganza was only $1.

Display lighting was poor, and after the first night, the whole orchid theme began to diversify as plants had been sold. The flower business is big in Boquete; obvious from nurseries found everywhere where you can see anything missed.

In addition to flowers and coffee, other foods and local handicrafts are sold inside fairgrounds, and other vendors set up along perimeter streets.

Even when there's not a festival, fairgrounds are "said" to be open of evenings and all day on weekends. Admission, $1. While gorgeous, you'll see just as many gardens lining Boquete's streets. The distant venture, to recommended Mi Jardín es Su Jardín, is more of the same unless also going to Café Ruíz.

Sometimes, festival rowdiness offends travelers. Here's related tips on What You Should Know.

Hardly concealed, Boquete's Central Plaza breaks from the norm without a cathedral located around its borders, but that's the only thing missing. As commonly found in Latin American settlements, these centralized areas prevail as a hub for local interactions, a place where everyone eventually finds themselves at some point during waking hours of any day. As a traveler, I highly recommend following tradition, since this obvious landmark could prove to be Boquete's most unexpected attraction!

With such demanding environs requiring strenuous workouts, downtimes are inevitable, whether brief respites or full-day recoveries. Retiring to this picturesque setting permits taking full advantage of situations where the only exertion required involves people-watching skills. It won't matter exactly where you sit or which way you're facing. Every position enriches a front-row seat towards private surveillance and shared experiences.

Centered around a large gazebo, the sectioned gardens are well manicured and further rejuvenate the way gentle mountain breezes trifle with sprinklers to arouse a refreshing effervescence. An assortment of towering conifers shade the park and lure a fleeting amount of songbirds and chattering parrots and parakeets to mingle with voices. As if in reverence to the tranquil bliss, Boquete was the first and only Latin American destination I've visited where throbbing music wasn't part of the ambience for distracting from intrinsics.

The town's history and culture have undoubtedly been authored from this magnetic block, which swarms with animations as locals go about their daily business, but never without time for stopping to socialize. Episodes transpire familiar, but yet so foreign as a reminder that too many fast-paced societies have sacrificed importances of amicable connection. Boquete's lifestyles and mannerisms on display are genteel and simplistic, decipherable even when you can't hear conversations or perhaps understand the language.

The height of movement unfolds in mid-afternoon once schools have dismissed, and students of all ages fluctuate with impish behaviors. Younger ones were usually accompanied by mothers, which further postponed household duties long enough to stop and exchange news and gossip while children played. Of an evening once scattered lamps dimly light the area, young lovers pass hand-in-hand, retreating to the darkest of corners for stolen moments in places which have unquestionably wooed the hearts for local romances over generations.

By most travelers' standards, Boquete will appear severely lacking when it comes to major attractions and entertainment venues, and thankfully it is! Beyond exploring the abundance of area natural highlights, the central plaza shouldn't be taken for granted or simply written off. Not only is it recommended for catching welcomed breathers, but voyeuristic photo opportunities are endless.

A smile begets smiles; a buenas is always reciprocated while presenting chance for conversation. Locals were very curious and ready to interact, though most foreigners keep right on walking as if they didn't exist. Basic Spanish helps, but many were eager to practice English. Situations are always what you make of them, but the Central Plaza is one not to be missed from any capacity.

As an introductory warm-up trek, there's a two-hour walk beginning where the main bridge crosses the Río Caldera. Looking up through the mountains slightly to the right, notice a clearing where a road passes. The town's overview from there will be the least of encounters following this unpaved course of moderate difficulty.

Heading right from the bridge, the range begins a steady climb in what will be the steepest uphill sections for the entire hike. There's glimpses through trees as the road rises above Boquete, and then cuts inland and gradually weaves in all directions to spare from having to make a direct ascent.

The area is well shaded through these parts, and passes along rustic homes tucked away in lush vegetation. Inhabitants always offered greetings, and were willing to engage in conversation; hikers obviously far and few between. At times you'll feel like you're heading out of the way, but stay the course.

Signs of civilization give way to large open expanses which roll-off through valleys. About a quarter of the way through the jaunt, the sweeping vista of Boquete sprawls below, and it's the only roadside vantage point from where the town can be seen, for now. Disturbing the peace were chainsaws clearing forest, and large equipment constructing roadway and drainage systems in preparation for the growth explosion that will soon saturate foothills.

Aside from the overlook of Boquete, the highlight of this walk is passing along all that flourishes in the rich volcanic soil. Steep slopes have been cultivated with avocados, bananas, oranges, coffee and other crops. Fragrances from the springtime blossoms of coffee plants rivaled the wild flowers growing among the most amazing weeds that even manage to bloom and look presentable. Splashes of vibrance were further illustrated from bougainvillea, massive cacti, and other garden varieties prospering at will.

Sucking the crisp mountain air was exhilarating, even after the dirt road had evened out through the middle section, before descending just as steeply as it began. The final stretch passes through the hamlet of Jaramillo Alto. Take a left at the pair of tee-intersections, and Boquete is just beyond the river.

I later discovered that Lonely Planet's Boquete map shows a couple of short-cuts that must have not looked like much on the spot. Obviously, staying on the clearest path gives the full tour! The only directional advisement involves coming to an unmarked, four-way intersection, which also appears on the map. I gambled on taking a left, and you should, too, as this follows the rim that eventually circles back towards town.

The road passes El Explorador, a small cafeteria and garden. Unfortunately, it was closed on a Monday. This was the only place en route for purchasing snacks/drinks. Otherwise, bring your own.

These upper regions can become more than just a gadabout as the road passes along Hotel Los Establos and the luxury bungalows of La Montaña y El Valle; both appearing exquisite and expensive.

With Boquete up-and-coming as Panama's favored retirement destination for expats, the town's isolation is keeping pace with a growing number of services, including agencies handling legal and professional affairs. Travelers are also flocking to this base for explorations of the Chiriquí Highlands and Nacional Parque Volcán Barú. These days, there's hardly any need for back-tracking to David with these extras which provide travel-related necessities as well as helping pass the time.

Boquete's Tourism Center
The IPAT Cefati is located on a hilltop about a mile south of town, where overview of the village and Virgin statue mirador are more impressive than any information you'll find in the center. If there's one thing most needed, it's a decent map of Boquete and the surrounding areas. Most of Boquete's streets are unnamed and unmarked, but the biggest concerns are for heading out on side roads and trails, where signs and markers are often contradictory and unreliable.

There's a small café in the center, with a nice outdoor balcony for enjoying snacks and coffee from homegrown beans. If you feel the need to come here, I suggest taking a $1 taxi. The walk isn't out of the question, but it trails along the narrow highway, with little shoulder room for dodging hectic traffic.

Maps are sold in the souvenir shop that's on the southwest corner across from the Central Plaza. Their designs are rather hideous, and hardly worth a purchase but made for quick-check references when needed. Other items in the shop were modestly priced, unique, and recommended since similar stores of its kind were nonexistent in Panama City.

REFERENCE POINT Cathedral
Heading from south to north through Boquete, everything seems to re-converge in front of the Cathedral before splitting to the west and east a couple of blocks later. It quickly became confusing when everything in the north part of town was always referenced as "just across from the Cathedral". Well, it's not including the highway which passes by Café Ruíz, Mi Jardín es su Jardín, and a removed part of Boquete which includes the large athletic complexes and stadiums, and starting points for several treks around the National Park and foothills.

The cathedral is rather plain and unadorned, as were most found in the entire country. It's a regular all-day beehive of activity with the large school, and daily mass. It's worth a quick peek, but the primary concerns of need actually do lie directly across the street.

Banistmo is Boquete's bank that's open from 8:00am - 3:00pm, Monday through Friday, and 9:00am to noon on Saturdays. American Express Travelers Cheques are cashed without fee or hassle, and there's an ATM if needing to retrieve cash with bank or credit cards.

Chevita.com is upstairs using an outer side entrance to the left of the bank lobby. After numerous attempts at other businesses, this is the best place for using Internet, or when needing to fax or use office-related services. Patrons sign in at the desk and are clocked by 15-minute intervals, one hour costing $1. Service was high-speed DSL, unlike the other places scattered about town, charging 50¢ an hour for painfully slow dial-up connection.

Chevita is open daily from 8:00am - 10:00pm, and I never had to wait for an available computer. Computers weren't outdated but showed signs of heavy use, and were prone to freeze up for rebooting.

While this may sound strange, dress accordingly. I usually visited of late evenings once the sun had gone down, and hoodie sweatshirts had became a welcomed accessory. None of the Internet places are air-conditioned and got quite stuffy. Removing a jacket or hoodie was fine until the night realizing too late I'd worn nothing underneath. Since there's a national law that makes it illegal for a man to go shirtless in the streets, there was nothing left to do but sweat or leave for a change of clothes.

Supermercado Romero
Open 24/7, this one-stop shopping center is likely the only consideration travelers will need while in Boquete, for if it can't be found here, it's likely not in town. For the closet sect of foreign grocery store browser-junkies, Romero certainly won't disappoint with its endless rows of colorful selections.

Since most of the budget accommodations had kitchens where guests could prepare their own meals, look no further. I was rather surprised that many prices were comparable to those found in the States. But with the abundance of inexpensive local eateries, why bother cooking? Nevertheless, there were still plenty of cheap deals to be had; especially for stocking munchies and drinks in the room.

The biggest bargain buster is in the snacks and chips aisle: 20-pack assortment bags containing small packages of chips, granola, crackers, and cookies for $1.89. I also highly recommend the packages of shortbread wafers laced with berry. Fruit was of the same quality and price range as found in streets, and the bakery café was convenient and leaned more towards Bavarian-influenced pastries and strudel in catering to the growing number of German, Swiss and Austrian residents.

Household articles, toiletries, and other last-minute needs are scattered about shelves, there's a pharmacy, and near the entry are revolving racks of used books and novels, in both Spanish and English. Romero has a full beer, wine and liquor section stocked rather amazingly; even all the new exotic flavors of Boones Farm and Madd Dogg 20/20 should that be what taste buds fancy. There are no alcohol sales after 11:00pm. Packs of cigarettes were $1, and phonecards are sold at check-out registers. Romero accepts cash or credit cards.

Public Payphones
The most convenient payphones are located under the covered porch at the municipal building and post office, across from the east side of the Central Plaza. Sometimes, there was a wait but phones always worked, and there wasn't an abundance of background noise for ruining conversation.

Here's Additional Tips about what to expect with Panama's telephones, phone cards, as well as other communication and money matters.

Entertainment

Travelers that need mass quantity of entertainment venues won't enjoy Boquete. The town is simple, unassuming, and shuts-down promptly at 10:00pm. Unless peace and quiet, and outdoor activities are what you're after, head for Bocas del Toro where the carousing never ceases.

Sueños del Río and many other guesthouses provided VCR's for their patrons, and there was a surprising surplus of video rental stores scattered around town, most selections in English with Spanish subtitles.

Several drop-in cantinas and hole-in-the-wall gathering spots are available, as well as a trio of pool halls along Avenida Central. When passing along one afternoon, I overheard a young tourist railing on her boyfriend for getting their pockets cleaned out. If you're foolish enough to take-on the local contingency, be prepared to bring your best game or be ready to add mountain sharks to the list of Boquete spectacles.

As Panama's second-largest city, David has prospering commerce along Highway of the Americas, but otherwise it's a predicament of dusty streets circulating through a mini-metropolis of bedlam. There's nothing here to warrant an extended stay. Take a hint from the town's central plaza named Parque de Cervantes, but think Dante's Inferno! It's not the place you want to be, but unprepared travelers may find themselves stuck here for the night in trying to reach Boquete.

Every mode of transportation must first arrive in David, including daily flights on Aeroperlas. Most travelers come on luxury motorcoaches from Panama City, and that's where schedules begin to break-down; especially for late arrivals.

Once the sun goes down, bus service connecting to Boquete is unpredictable regardless of what schedules at the station says, locals' advice, or Lonely Planet's listing of 9:30pm for being the last run. Unless negotiating a minimum of $15 for a taxi to Boquete, staying in David could prove wretched; especially for budget travelers.

Accommodations
Pensión Clark (507-774-3452), located nearest to the bus station, and The Purple House were the two recommended places, but neither had weekday vacancies. They suggested Pensión Costa Rica; I don't!

Another American and I split a "closet" for $9.20 that had enough room to walk in, set bags down, and step over them for crawling onto the foot of side-by-side cots. The springs sagged tortuously, the off-kilter fan served no purpose except generating clatter, and I've seen better out-houses than the shared bathrooms.

After drowning ourselves on 40¢ beers across the street, we returned; afraid to even undress for lying on the stained sheets. Usually for exhausted travelers, any place can feel like the Hilton once the lights are out, but certainly not here. We left sweat-soaked at sun-up, without even brushing our teeth. So Not Recommended!

David's Transportation Center
Most travelers will only endure the David bus terminal, which is a straight-forward encounter thriving with the typical Latin chaos of a very busy place. For naive passengers stepping off the bus, getting swept away in the sidewalk frenzy is guaranteed culture shock!

The assortment of local Spaniards and indigenous tribe members, going about their daily routines, are harmless but impart an uneasy feeling with their constant gawking; only the brazen traveler would dare pulling out a camera. Crude measures of eateries and vendor boothes provide everything a person could need during any wait.

The station is divided between two sections. The newer, modern terminal is where long-haul motorcoaches are based from. The older, larger area is where smaller buses and vans disperse through-out the Chiriquí province. All buses unload on the side closest to the street, and out-bound buses leave from the interior parking lot.

Regional departures are easily determined from over-head signs lining the parking spots, and barkers call-out destinations. Ánden is the name for each boarding point. Boquete is #13. Schedules are posted for departures, but again--earliest times and later in the day are the most inconsistent. Safest bets are aiming for something after 7:00am and before 7:00pm.

Broken-down school buses make the run to Boquete, cost $1.45, and were usually packed. There are no storage racks so travelers will need to cram luggage between/under seats or hold items.

Arriving by Motorcoach
Most travelers bypass Panama's interior, heading straight for David from Panama City. Hourly motorcoaches depart from the capital's Albrook Terminal, but timing is everything based on getting to David before services become unreliable.

A pair of Express Buses depart nightly from Panama City at 10:45pm and midnight, taking 6 hours, including the 30-minute stop at a Roadside Plaza in Santiago. Cost is $15. Taking the midnight bus spares having to wait in David for the first "said" morning departure to Boquete, but keep these factors in mind for either of these late-night departures:

There is no luggage storage service in the Albrook Terminal as Lonely Planet suggests! Be prepared to haul belongings around while waiting for any departure times.

Express buses are the most crowded and potentially sold out. Plan to buy tickets in advance or risk getting left behind or taking one of the regular routes.

Luggage is tagged and stowed. Passengers are issued claim stubs which must be presented upon arrival. One person had misplaced theirs, and were forced to scour the bus until finding it--even though they were the last passenger and only one bag remained. You've been forewarned!

Daytime buses, running between Panama City and David, make additional stops, take between 7-8-hours, and cost $12.60. The Albrook Terminal has a large bay of ticket windows with numerous agencies operating side-by-side for transport to David. The only difference is in departure times; not prices.

While in the terminal, have spare change ready. Not only is there a 25¢ admission to restrooms, there's also a 5¢ departure tax when leaving the terminal.

The Unplanned Scenario
My flight from MIA arrived shortly after noon, and plan was to head for Albrook Station, stow luggage, and later return for the midnight bus to David. Once realizing there was no storage available, and not wanting to drag things around Panama City, I was pleased to find that Direct Buses to David departed on various lines between 2:00 - 3:00pm, and weren't listed in travel info. They made the express run in 6 hours, but price was only $12.60.

There were less than a dozen passengers on the bus, and the assigned seat numbers weren't mandatory with plenty of room for spreading out. Without knowing what to expect, I'd previously loaded up at the Albrook food court and purchased snacks and drinks for the long ride, all which turned out to be my loss because the inexpensive cafeteria buffet at the Santiago stop looked highly commendable.

Fortunately, I'd pulled out a hoodie and jeans before leaving the capital because the air-conditioning was frigid! Between roadside scenery and entertainment system movies, the ride passed quickly considering 15-hours of "in-transit" for the entire day. Altered plans still allowed for transferring to the last bus for Boquete at 9:30pm, but the station was abandoned; only the first rude awakening while spending the night in David.

Considering David's shabby conditions, have a back-up plan ready just in case, regardless of what time you think you'll arrive. Stumbling into Boquete, in the middle of the night, could likely prove just as confusing since streets have no names.

When arriving in David, consider purchasing motorcoach return tickets before leaving if departure dates/times are certain, or at least obtain local contact numbers for calling to make reservations later.

From Boquete, leave at least 2 hours before the scheduled David departure, earlier if reservations haven't been made.

Another Alternative: If Boquete and the Chiriquí Highlands are your only purpose for traveling to Panama, consider flying into San Jose, Costa Rica, if rates are cheaper than Panama City. David is halfway point between the capitals, with express buses taking 6 hours in either direction.

If arriving from Costa Rica, be prepared for the boarder crossing. Other travelers reported a mixed bag of experiences and requirements, most everything inconsistant with what travel information said should be expected.

Coming to a town that's renowned for flowers and coffee, and sharing conversations over a cup of java with Boquete's "Flower Man", was one of those unlikely encounters that even locals and expats met with suspicious eyes. Nevertheless, Oscar Valentino is the essence of these Chiriquí Highlands, both past and present. Not a day goes by that he can't be seen toddling through the streets, rain or shine, carrying a meticulous bouquet of flowers that he's helped himself to from people's yards and gardens.

As to what he does with these flowers, no one seems quite sure and after several days of observances, I'm still not either. There were no sales ever made or even complimentary poesies offered to those he passed. Actually, it would seem this rugged old mountain man was given a wide path, licensed with the insolence that tends to greet perceived down-and-outers of the world.

Justified or merely suspect, age has cordially liberated his need for anyone's approval. Uncertain mysteries only heighten potential shock values he conjures at will, nothing malicious, yet hinting of devilish gratifications perhaps enriching his life more so than daily rituals. Charged with purpose and self-sufficiency, Oscar Valentino certainly doesn't shy away from the spotlight he commands as Boquete's prime exhibition of Living History, even if he is a legend only by his own regards.

During initial explorations, I was passing along Avenida Central when finding one of those tantalizing photo opportunities. A frail creature was stroking a four-legged companion, but further seizing attention was the striking bouquet of flowers lying off to the side. Sitting facing the other way, quick study surmised the midday sun had warranted a shaded breather from what was presumed to be yard work.

Fumbling to retrieve camera, my subject had risen and was now delicately recompiling the floral collection. Distant click of the shutter announced presence, and the only thing more compelling than the profound eyes that locked into mine was the snow-white beard. So it wasn't a woman; didn't matter. The moment was spoiled from that self-inflicted guilt of shooting strangers in public, when no one's the wiser, and getting caught!

There were no exchanges, and I busied myself with distractions in high-tailing it down the street. Intrigue warranted a second glance from another safe distance. This gentleman was headed my way at a snail's pace, and could surely be recaptured using a zoom lens. Of course, that's when the sidewalk generated probably the highest level of foot-traffic for the day, and the senior's shufflings seemed to involve walking with head down to assure ginger steps.

"Come on, come on..." when suddenly, this subject idol threw his head back to penetrate straight through the lens. A split-second of panic and indecision strickened until realizing this old geezer wanted his picture taken, and was striking an exaggerated pose as if I were paparazzi! With such invitation, the best opportunity would've included an entire portfolio, but the dog wouldn't cooperate, background interference kept coming, and suspect as hell about any potential photo fees, a quick shot sufficed. He actually thanked me before I could extend the same courtesy, and further mumblings were excused when rushing off.

The following midday, an umpteenth wind was carrying through final stretches of a 20km ramble. Frivolities of food, shower and rest were waiting at the finish line back in Boquete, but there was no delirium when hearing someone desperately trying to get my attention in this area where I was still a newcomer. There, sitting under the shaded patio of Café Ruíz, was unmistakeably the same fellow, a signature bouquet laid on the table.

With eyes like a hawk, the vigilante had spotted my passing even from quite the distance. Raising quite the ruckus while hoisting a coffee cup, invitation was apparent but untimely. Thoughts of consuming anything hot were nauseating, and any pause would've likely collapsed into unfinished business. I smiled and waved, feigning ignorance to anything else, but the playful distraction fueled those last kilometers. Who was this old man, that certainly seemed to get around even if it took all day for doing it?

Propped up in the central plaza the following afternoon, fate charmed on this third consecutive day when glancing this new-found fixation meandering towards the park, bouquet in tow. There was no second guessing opportunity. Trying to anticipate his course of action, I should have known there'd be nothing predictable about this feisty old fart detouring away from any strategic positionings. After a third failed attempt of getting noticed, I threw caution to the wind and settled for the direct approach.

Introducing myself, a snaggled-tooth smile lit up as if he'd been expecting me. My invitation for coffee didn't seem to register as this puzzling individual drew almost too close, like an animal whose only means of comprehension came through scent. By now, every eye in the surrounding area was zeroed in on the tourist towering toe-to-toe over the village jester. A scene was certainly unfolding when he abruptly swung his walking stick up in the air, breaking into a tirade that startled everyone.

Talking gibberish, the crank began poking his stick through dead spots on overhead limbs as if enraged by conditions; commentary as indecipherable regarding puny-looking plants below. Wondering what I'd gotten myself into, focus was distracted by the growing audience. Re-declaring my coffee intentions for all to hear diffused any questionable predicament, but botany class had yet to be dismissed.

"¿Listo?", "ready", was eventually the first word which came out of his mouth that I understood. Waiting to escort my guest was met with indifference; my walking around to the steps while he opted for struggling over the wall like the old mountain goat that he was.

Rushing across the street to Central Park Cafe, a pair of black coffees were ordered and the girl indicated she'd bring them out to the patio. Her smile warmed once seeing my guest and fuss made over getting him settled. He thanked me and readily helped himself to the sugar packets I had no intention of using. Preparing his cup of coffee like it was some type of magic potion, I watched in silence while trying to read between the lines of his weathered face. Once he'd savored the first taste, conversation was apropos through general acquaintance.

So this was Oscar Valentino: an 89-year old native of these mountains surrounding Boquete. Through the highest esteem, probing questions would've been inappropriate so I let him talk between sips. Aside from proudly expounding his Spanish heritage, he was most enthused to divulge life's history as a musician involving guitar and piano. Particulars never went far, but it wasn't hard to imagine him creating music, countrified strains in whimsical settings of an era gone by. And like anyone disposed to the spotlight of performance, the streets of Boquete were now his stage for daily encores.

Tattered appearance had also done nothing for depreciating his other well-rehearsed expertise. Oscar Valentino was a lady's man, nothing uncertain about it. Cultured as a Latin lover, he scoffed at mention of Rudolph as if to assert himself as the original that could still charm the pants off of anyone. I joked about him collecting the flowers for the ladies. He answered only with the debonair look of a rascal, not that a gentleman would ever kiss and tell. But even I was spellbound from the same suave arrogance he'd inflamed when lusting for the camera during our first encounter.

With bouquet in hand, the tutorial resumed telling the flowers' names in Spanish, and intently listening to and processing the English equivalents. Rising from the lavender-hued collection was a plumed blossom he called pomarrosa in relation to manzana. A Canadian expat at the neighboring table, that had been all ears and eyes throughout parley, took that as cue to jump in by extending a bag of small rose apples which came from the plant producing this beautiful flower. His English spew of chatter, as if to really inform me about the individual I was sharing coffee with, was plausible even if the old codger didn't understand a word.

Oscar had busied himself digging through pockets, and produced what I thought was a rose apple. The taste was gritty until realizing it was a freshly dug potato. He watched with approval at my gnawings; readily offering more. I countered with suggesting another cup of coffee. Making excuses, he didn't hesitate asking for money to buy a cup later. I pulled out $2; he only took one.

Eyes are the windows to a person's soul, and boring deep into mine through his, he grasped my hand with genuine recognition. Drawing from Hemingway's Santiago and Manolo, the affect was stirring. Also, doomed once seeing him totter off like a rebel with sordid cause, stoked on a caffeine and sugar buzz more fresh than the bouquet he carried. A trio of teens scattered without him even acknowledging their presence, and I snickered with admiration.

Like the clacks from a rollercoaster straining to overtake the summit, so goes the road to Boquete as battered school buses chug their way onward and upward through Panama's highest elevations. With excitement and suspense, nothing suggests exactly when or where this lofty settlement will emerge from the imminent horizon. It never does. Hanging on with anticipation while duped into searching higher, a sudden plunge reassigns any preconceived notions as passageway spirals into the mountain village that's draped across an extravagant abyss that's anything but hell.

The arrival is impressive, saying the very least, but nothing compared to actually stepping off the bus. Something's different, as blatantly subtle as when Dorothy opened the door to her far-flung, black-and-white Kansas homestead, and the vivid domain of Oz beckoned from beyond. The first impression is one of an uncanny shift you just can't quite put your finger on, and that's certainly not found on any guidebook map while trying to get your bearings.

As the center of attention in the Central Plaza, yet so far removed like a spectator watching a daydream unfold, the surrealisms of Boquete have already began to cast their spells. Unshackled by soothing presence, temptations to linger serve no purpose towards getting settled, nor does the urge to pinch yourself. It's real, it's waiting, and the engaging stage has been set; as if just for you...

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Living Waters
Meditational CD selections often include the sedateful sounds of nature suggesting places we'd much rather be. Better than anything programmed into an iPod, the background soundtrack of Boquete is unfailing, and highly recommended over any headset! An abundance of chirps and chatters accent the stimulations which penetrate to the core of one's being, thanks to the Río Caldera; an alpine sensuality which tumbles from the upper realms before coursing with fervor through the soul of Boquete.

Caldera signifies cauldron or kettle, but there's nothing boiling in this crisp mountain stream that begs to massage tired hikers' feet, or lull them to sleep at the close of another rewarding day. Even at the end of April's dry season, the potency was invigorating in both sight and sound; gentle roars carrying through-out the village and magnified by Dolby-quality echos off the surrounding slopes.

And, that's not all. Boquete's ditches and low-lying areas further runneth over with Babbling Brooks draining through the valley; their lush banks just as inviting for the holistic relaxation of body, mind and spirit.

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Spic-and-Span
Part of Boquete's appeal was the groomed appearance of most everything; regardless of importance or significance. Locals and newly relocated expats take great pride in their community that maintains a sparkling expression thanks to industrious efforts, something highly commendable compared to shabbiness and discarded debris which often dominates Latin America. The school buses, which run between Boquete and David as public transportation, may have been broken down on the inside from heavy usage, but bands of youth were constantly washing them between runs.

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Upscale Elegance
Hotel Panamonte oozes with the charm and grace which define Boquete. This historic structure is located on the northern stretch of Avenida Central before the road sways towards the Río Caldera. Facilities are centered around a courtyard with beautiful gardens, and an expansive lawn which enhances seclusion. Within the town's city limits, it's the premier lodging option. In addition to offering Day Spa treatments, the hotel also organizes numerous excursions, including quetzal watching and coffee plantation tour packages at Finca Lérida, also owned by the same family.

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Yakkity Yak
And what ever you do, Don't Talk Back! Weekends in Boquete always take-on a carnival approach thanks to swarms of Ngöbe Buglé Indians which pour into town for market days. We'd missed the bulk of activities, but returned on a rainy Sunday afternoon just as everything was concluding. Lumbering in the street, across from the Central Plaza, was this monstrous creature! I'd never seen a yak, and became highly curious.

Preparing to snap a photo, this little man grabbed my arm, held up a Polaroid camera, and insisted he would take the picture for $2. Explaining that I preferred using my own camera, he said the cost would be $1. Paying up, I went back to focusing when a small dispute broke out between the cameraman and yak owner. Apparently, he was supposed to take the picture using my camera while I was sitting on the yak. Otherwise, the owner couldn't claim his cut. There was brief hesitation when insisting I should mount the beast. Thankfully, a couple of others refueled the commotion, and I quickly fired the shot before skedaddling around the corner...

Nothing would be better than to head-out on horseback for exploring the Chiriquí Highlands, and there's numerous places in Boquete which rent horses by the hour. Unfortunately, the only ones I saw appeared malnourished and in extremely poor condition, just like the crippled-looking horse in the background of this photo.

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Enamored
Perhaps it's in the freshness of the mountain air, or it's something that springs forth from the enriched earth, but there's no denying--Boquete fosters a simplistic lifestyle, without pretense, and the people obviously savor the joys of living. You'll see it in their faces and better yet, with their actions and interactions that speak louder than words whether you understand Spanish or not. There's a certain innocence that guides their paths, the kind that's been sheltered from corruptions of the world and further purged with their pleasantries amid poverty. There's no place better for witnessing la vida pura than while lounging about The Central Plaza, and realizing just how askew developed nations' societies and cultures have been pillaged in our race for success.

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Mango Tango
With every mouthful of scrumptious local specialties, there is a digestive barricade that doesn't reveal itself until too late. Panamanian victuals are severely lacking when it comes to fresh vegetables, greens and salads which serve as dietary roughage. Fresh fruits also aren't part of restaurant menus or cafeteria buffets, but they're readily available and highly recommended. Vendors are scattered around Boquete, selling the most succulent of mangoes, grapes, oranges, and other vine-ripened delectables, where the only thing sweeter and more refreshing than tastes were chump-change prices.

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Abstract Illustrations
If there's one word that best describes Latin America as a whole, it's capitalized CHAOS! Even a tranquil town like Boquete isn't immune to the industrious, yet frivolous manners of operations which tend to baffle and frustrate most foreigners. Museum buffs will be sorely deprived in most rural areas where official collections would have about as much purpose as a ski resort. Culturally void? Hardly, if you'll only open your eyes and imagine. Relics and rituals of daily life tend to fuse into forms of art; always guaranteed to be colorful and compelling.

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Fertilities of Mother Earth
Up from the ashes, through some of the richest, darkest soil I'd ever seen, the Boquete area spawns more than just magnificent gardens. Within steps out of town, in most any direction, fertile slopes are tediously cultivated by indentured peasants serving as the pixies of Panama's bread basket. Smooched by a gentle sun, and daily bathed by the lightest of mountain mists, the silence along country roads is all but ruptured from the timbre of growth bursting forth; where the only thing more satisfying than the earthly aromas of cultivation are the culinary scents wafting in Boquete's kitchens upon return.

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The Sleeping Giant
From within the basin which entertains Boquete, the height of expectations is perfected by the zenith of Panamá. Volcán Barú deliberately scrutinizes everything below with an assuming position that's rather minimized by the peaks and foothills which bow before it. From depths of the village, the dormant chimera appears to be just another sprawling prospect of explorations, where ascendancy deceives to be no more challenging than any of its other neighboring treks. Only once the lower elevations have been mastered will any respect for authority befall.

Standing at 3,478m/11,477ft, the volcano has not one but seven craters adorning its crown, with command post vistas of both the Pacific and Caribbean in transparent situations. Barú tends to greet each new day with gleam the way transmission towers, barely visible to the naked eye, sparkle at dawn. Haze begins to permeate and ever so gradually, the upper realms play hide and seek amongst wisps and billows before retiring for siesta. Some days, the volcano remains shrouded until the twinkling communal hours with stars and moon.

Other times, the late afternoon mists arouse a resplendence of colorful yawns, and the National Park luminary imposes an invitation of mutual pleasures, whether inherited from atop the summit or a Boquete park