Following Louis, we come through the reef about 30 feet down at the bottom of huge cylinder. When I look up, the surface is shattered into a million facets, each an ever-changing sky blue or cobalt blue, or turquoise, or one of an untold number of shades of green, or white. The clear sand below ripples with the shadows of the waves above, white, tan, sometimes almost but not quite black. Turning 360° the reef walls all look the same to me. But Louis does another head count and then disappears like magic into the reef in a place where I couldn’t even see an opening.
When it’s my turn, I follow the fins and bubbles of the diver ahead of me, into a tiny dark spot in the reef wall.