Prague Bits and Pieces

Prague is possibly my favorite city. Maybe I have been lucky with the weather and the crowds, but under favorable circumstances, I don’t know a more appealing place. What makes it so attractive to me is the walkable size of the downtown area, the wonderful architecture, the stunning Baroque palaces and churches, the charming cafes, the delightful squares and narrow alleys and the music on every corner.

Prague essentially remains a Bohemian city. While most of the writers and artists have gone, much of the ambience remains. You see it best in the Old Town, along the Royal Way and in Mala Strana – the Lesser Quarter. You can feel the atmosphere seeping from the buildings and alleys in all these areas, and you will find it impossible to ignore. Let it wash over you, get into your bones and ensure that you will return to this fabulous city in the heart of Europe.

The Golden City on the Vltava has always been a city of music. Bohemian classicism flourished during the 18th century. Mozart has become a revered adopted son although he only spent a short period here. His opera The Marriage of Figaro was a smash hit in Prague and the Nostitz Theatre (now the Estates Theatre) commissioned him to write Don Giovanni. Today Mozart is an industry here. Later Smetana and Dvorak made names for themselves.

While there are plenty of organized tours in Prague, my recommendation is to forget them, read up before you go, and then organize your own sightseeing depending on what particularly interests you. In this journal I suggest several must-see places, but there is really something for everyone (also see Immersing yourself in Prague and Enjoying Prague Castle and Environs for further ideas). When you tire of sightseeing, stop off at one of the traditional coffee shops. They are no longer filled with artists, writers and journalists, but they are still great places to relax and see something of local Prague life.

Quick Tips:

Prague gets very crowded during summer, so you need to start your day early to avoid the worst of the throng. Don’t forget that evening is still a good time to sightsee. Many buildings are wonderfully lit and the mysterious play of light and shadow makes them quite magical. Charles Bridge is a delight at night. Go there, stop, look and be impressed.

Try to stay in an inner city hotel. We were about 4 kilometres out and it was too far to walk. Public transport is good in Prague, but in my view, it is always better to be able to walk because you can then really immerse yourself in the city. If you stayed within Old or New Town, getting to all the attractions then home at night would be no problem.

The Czechs are supposed to be the greatest beer drinkers in the world. After tasting their beer, I understand why. There are two styles: light, which is pilsner style, and dark. somewhat similar to stout. I prefer the dark because of the complex flavours you get. I enjoyed Krusovice (dark) and Urquell (light). The best place to enjoy them is in an underground beer hall away from the main tourist thoroughfares. It’s a great experience.

Czech is a difficult language for most Westerners, but you will get a much better reception when dealing with the locals if you know at least a few words. Here are five that everyone can learn and it just might open some doors that were previously closed. Please – prosim; thank you – dekuji; hello – dobry den; yes – ano; no – ne.

Best Way To Get Around:

The easiest way to see Prague’s sights is on foot, but at some point in your visit, you’ll probably need to take public transport.

At first, the city’s public transport system might seem intimidating, but once you’ve figured out the basics, it’ll be one of your best friends in Prague. You can buy tickets from metro stations, some tram stops, and a selection of newsagents across the city.

Prague has one of the best public transportation systems in Europe. The metro, trams and buses are used by two-thirds of Prague's population and cover the majority of the city and outskirts. The metro especially makes getting around town a breeze for visitors, since it enables you to cover long distances in a matter of minutes. If you can't continue to your destination on foot, you'll be able to catch a tram or bus from near the subway station. Walking, however, is the preferred method of traversing the central area.

For other options, see the Getting around Prague entry in this journal.

Charles Bridge is one of my three top attractions in Prague. It joins Old Town Square and Prague Castle as three things that you simply cannot miss. The bridge can be walked across in 5 minutes (during early morning), but we went back and back while we were in Prague and probably spent several hours enjoying the view, the bridge itself and the people scene. The first stone bridge over the Vltava River, replacing a wooden construction, was built in the 12th century during the reign of King Vladislav I. This bridge, named Judith Bridge, collapsed in 1342.

Charles Bridge is a stone Gothic bridge that connects the Old Town and Malá Strana. It was actually called the Stone Bridge during the first several centuries. It is said that egg yolks were mixed into the mortar to strengthen the construction of the bridge. Unlike its predecessor, Charles Bridge has survived many floods, most recently in August 2002, when the country experienced the worst flood in the past 500 years - so the egg yolks must not have been such a bad idea. Considering the weight of tourists it has to bear, it's surprising this one hasn't collapsed too!

The Charles Bridge is 502 meters long. Resting on 16 arches, it was wide enough for four carriages to cross at the same time and was for a long time the only permanent link between both riversides. On the Lesser Town end of the Charles Bridge there are two bridge towers. The smaller one is a 12th-century remainder of the Judith Bridge. The taller late-Gothic tower was erected in 1464 on the orders of King George of Podebrady, who wanted a counterweight to the Old Town Bridge Tower.

Thirty Baroque statues began to be placed on either side of Charles Bridge in the 17th century. Now many of them are copies. The most popular statue is probably the one of St. John of Nepomuk, a Czech martyr saint who was executed during the reign of Wenceslas IV by being thrown into the Vltava from the bridge. The plaque on the statue has been polished to a shine from countless people touching it over the centuries. Touching the statue is supposed to bring good luck and ensure your return to Prague. Of course, I touched it.

Charles Bridge is also popular with Czech artists, musicians and souvenir vendors whose stands line both sides of the bridge year-round. You will find artists selling their wares, tourists by the thousands and wily thieves and pickpockets. A great time of day to come to the bridge is after sunset, when one can enjoy a breathtaking view of the fully lit Prague Castle against the evening sky. Don’t forget the camera.

I visited in October, when visitor numbers are down, but I was told that the bridge becomes unbearably crowded during peak season. That’s when you have to be particularly wary of pickpockets.

The Royal Way is the traditional coronation route from the Powder Tower (see Immersing Yourself in Prague) to Prague Castle (see Enjoying Prague Castle and Environs). It passes through the Old Town, then across Charles Bridge to Mala Strana (the Lesser Quarter). On the way it passes many of Prague’s most impressive sights.

Much of the Old Town attractions have been covered in my other journals, so we will jump to Charles Bridge. The western end of the bridge crosses Kampa Island before you walk beneath the Mala Strana bridge towers and enter Mostecka Street. There are several hotels here, a McDonald's and a wax museum. In the wax museum you step back in time in the restored renaissance cellars in Mala Strana, and experience, with the help of special audio and lighting effects, the atmosphere of Prague through the centuries. After meeting the legendary Princess Libuse and her ploughman husband Přemysl Oráč, we see the beautiful interior of Prague Old Town, becoming acquainted with some of its medieval professions. Don’t miss seeing a re-creation of the interior of Karlstejn Castle where we meet Charles IV and his four wives.

At the end of Mostecka is Malostranske Square and the magnificent baroque Church of St. Nicholas. When you cross the square, you enter Nerudova Street, one of Prague’s most picturesque streets. As you slowly climb the hill, it is worthwhile looking at the mostly baroque facades and seeing their colourful emblems. This area was first settled in the 9th century but was destroyed twice – during the battles with the Hussites in the early 15th century and in the Great Fire of 1541. Romanesque buildings replaced destroyed houses and many of these were given a baroque makeover at a later time. This street was named after the poet Jan Neruda who lived in house number 47. The oldest building is probably number 18, which was built in 1566. This street is a particular favourite of mine, and I could spend hours here.

Take particular note of the baroque Church of Our Lady of Unceasing Succour at number 24. For a few years it was a theatre during the Czech national revival of the 19th century. Close by, is Bretfeld Palace which was a center for social activities in the 18th century. It is said that Mozart and Casanova were amongst the guests at various times.

The Royal Way then takes a sharp turn and a steep approach to Hradcany Square. It was here that the heir to the throne was presented to the people before entering the castle for the coronation. Even though the last coronation took place in Prague in 1836, when Ferdinand 1, the Austrian Emperor, became the last crowned king of Bohemia, the Royal Way remains very much like it was in the nineteenth century. It is simply a wonderful walk for anyone.

Mala Strana (the Lesser Town or Little Quarter) clusters around the foothills of Prague Castle, on the opposite side of the river to the Old Town. Almost too picturesque for its own good - with its ancient burgher houses, quaint side streets and St. Nicolas Church - the area is a favourite setting for films and commercials. It is one of my favourite places in Prague.

This is Prague's most perfectly preserved historic quarter. The baroque churches, narrow lanes and cobblestone streets are so beautiful and just asking to be explored. Malá Strana has pubs, restaurants, and jazz clubs so it is a popular destination among tourists and locals. Many foreign embassies are located among the baroque palaces. In the Middle Ages, it was a dominant centre of the German settlement of Prague.

Most tourists pass through Mala Strana as they cross Charles Bridge from the Old Town and climb up Nerudova Street to reach Prague Castle. Malastranske Namesti lies at the heart of Mala Strana. In and around this baroque square, in the narrow cobblestone side streets, there is plenty to explore in the small boutique shops, churches, traditional Czech pubs and a variety of restaurants, some located in ancient cellars, others offering fine views of the river.

Mala Strana started life in the 8th century as a market settlement. In 1257 it was granted town status and in 1360-1362 fortifications were built. Mala Strana was almost destroyed twice: first during a battle between the Hussites and the Prague Castle garrison in 1419, and then in the Great Fire of Prague in 1514. Renaissance buildings and palaces replaced the destroyed houses.
The baroque churches and palaces that give Mala Strana its charm date from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Malá Strana is a living art gallery where starry-eyed tourists look over sunlit rooftops, peer around mysterious alley corners, and stare up at frescoes. And most of us want to take a piece of it home. Art galleries are packed so densely they almost outnumber the tourists. Prices are probably higher here than elsewhere in Prague and quality varies considerably but it is easy and convenient.

More than anywhere else, this area conforms to the image of Prague as the quintessential Baroque city. Its focus is the sloping, cobbled Malostranské námestí , a busy square split in two by the church of St Nicolas. Follow Tomásská north from the square and you'll arrive at the Valdstejn Palace. The largest palace complex in the city after the castle, it was built by Albrecht von Waldstein, who demolished 21 houses to make space for a palace befitting the most powerful man in central Europe. It currently houses the Czech Senate and is only rarely open to the public.

South of the main square, a continuation of Karmelitská brings you to the funicular railway up Petrín hill (daily 9.15am-8.45pm, every 10-15 minutes; 8kc), a nice green space, and a good place for a picnic and views from the 60-metre Petrín tower.

In the mid-13th century, the Islam armies conquered the Christian Holy Land. According to legion, while this was happening, two priors were able to remove the Santa Casa (Holy House) stone by stone and rebuild it near Loreto in Italy. The house was visited by many pilgrims and was later richly decorated. When the Catholic Habsburgs were trying to convert their Hussite subjects to Catholicism, they built replicas of the Santa Casa throughout their kingdom. The best known of these is the Loretta of Prague.

This outstanding complex of ambits, Nativity Church, Holy House and tower with clock and world-famous glockenspiel has for more than 300 years been located in Hradčany. It is a popular place to visit today, for some as a pilgrimage but for many as another sightseeing attraction. It is certainly worth checking it out when you are in the castle district.

You can see the Prague Loretta not just as an architectonic historical sight, but also as a baroque pilgrim place. The history was started by the laying of the foundation stone of the Holy House in 1626. The first patroness and the founder was Benigna Catherine from Lobkowicz.

The pilgrim place is a closed complex of buildings around the central Holy House with a rectangular palatine arcade courtyard. The present Nativity Church and two of the chapels were originally just shallow niches with altars. As the fame of the Loretta grew, more people visited and it was necessary to enlarge the liturgical areas. Gradually larger rectangular shaped chapels were built into the corners of the courtyard, and in several phases, the Nativity Chapel was rebuilt into a spacious church.

In the 1950s and 60s, a new treasure house was built, which is open for the public. The most valuable item of the liturgical treasury is the so-called Prague Sun, a monstrance weighing over 12 kg and embellished with 6,222 diamonds. Another unique treasure is the Gothic chalice, with enamel pictures dating from 1510. The carillon that calls the devout to prayer every hour is also interesting. The tower contains 27 Loreto bells which play a Marian song We Greet You a Thousand Times.

Like most of the big attractions of Prague, the Loretta is often choked by tour groups and getting through the chaotic throng can be something of a mission that requires a great deal of perseverance and patience. The Loretta is looked after by the monks from the Monastic Order of Smaller Brothers Capuchin's, whose monastery is in the vicinity of the church of Virgin Mary Angelic.

Facing the Loretta monastery is the foreign ministry, the Cernin Palace, where in 1948 the communists murdered Jan Masaryk by throwing him out the window from the second floor. Jan Masaryk was an important politician and the son of T. G. Masaryk, the popular first president of the Republic.

I strongly recommend using public transport over driving or taking a taxi. The traffic situation in the city center has become pretty bad in the past decade, and not many good things can be said about Prague taxi drivers. If you're going to be staying in Prague for a few days, you may want to buy a tourist pass that will enable you to use any type of mass transit as many times as you want within the time period for which your pass is valid.

Airport to city. Prague airport is serviced by two buses: no. 119 and no. 100. Taking the bus is the cheapest way to get to and from the airport. The ride costs 20 Kč and both bus stops are easy to find. Bus 119 is the better choice if your destination is in the historical center of Prague (the Old Town, Lesser Town, New Town, Prague Castle area) as it connects with line A of the metro. To take either of the buses, you will need a public transport ticket for 20 Kč (transfer ticket) - or you can pay the bus driver directly, in which case you will be charged a small extra fee. Keep in mind that the bus doesn't have much space for luggage, can be crowded in peak times and won't drop you off right at your hotel, so if you have a lot of luggage, you may want to consider using a transfer service or as a last resort, a taxi.
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Using one of the Prague airport transfer companies is a good option if you'd like a door-to-door service and prefer to arrange for your transfer in advance. Unlike taxi companies, the shuttle companies require you to book your airport transfer in advance. Taking a taxi in Prague is not a simple business. Please read our page, and you need to be very careful to avoid getting ripped off and having a bad experience right after you step off your flight. I strongly discourage you from getting into a random taxi that's parked in front of the airport terminal. Some hotels have a pick-up service.

Around the city. The Prague metro is fast, efficient, clean and easy to use. Its three lines consist of about 50 km of tracks running mostly underground, and some 50 stations. Trains run from 5 a.m. till midnight at 2-3 min. intervals during peak hours and at 4-10 min. intervals in the off hours. There are three transfer stations.

Trams (tramvaje) cover a large area of the city with 500 km of tracks. Daytime trams run from 4:30 a.m. till midnight at 8-10 min. intervals. Night trams (numbers 51-58) run from 00:30 a.m. till 4:30 a.m. at 40 min. intervals. Trams 22 and 23 follow one of Prague's most scenic routes, passing by the National Theater to Staroměstská and Malostranská metro stations, and continuing up to the Belveder, Prague Castle and Pohořelec, with some stunning views on the way. Buses mostly cover the outskirts of Prague.