Magnificent 'Nawlins'

New Orleans has a unique vibe that one immediately senses as soon as one arrives in the city. Sure, it is hot, humid , crowded, and dirty, but there is always music in the air, either gentle melodies played by the myriad street performers in the French Quarter or hard rock blasting out of the bars on Bourbon street. The people here are extremely relaxed, gracious, friendly, and down-to-earth, yet fiercely proud of their Cajun/Creole heritage and the realisation that they are unlike any other city in the United States. One of the best things to do here other than to delve into the history of Mardi Gras and voodoo is to simply sit in Jackson Square and watch the jazz musicians play with soulful joy. A jazz concert in Preservation Hall is a must. Venture out to the countryside plantations of Oak Alley and Laura to learn about the horrors of slavery and the Southern way of life. Marvel at the vastness of Lake Ponchatrain as you cross it on your way to see alligators in their natural habitat in the bayous up north. Yes, at night, New Orleans can be downright raunchy and lascivious, but the city seduces you with its lack of pretense, warm earthiness, and utter embrace of artistic life.

Quick Tips:

There are many 'information centers' in New Orleans, but be aware that most of them serve as a front for tour companies. Sure, there will be a few tourist brochures around, but do not expect any information to be free. Slowly but surely you will be steered towards a particular tour or hotel.

The best place to go is the New Orleans Welcome Center ( open 9am-5pm daily) next to Jackson Square. Maps, pocket-guide books, and brochures can be found here. Service is friendly but by no means efficient, so be prepared to wait your turn. Also, there will be lots of coupons and discounts being passed out on the street and in hotel lobbies, so look around before booking a tour, especially in the local newspaper, Times Picayune.

Best Way To Get Around:

Well, we walked a lot, but the sweltering heat limited our exploration to early morning and evening hours. You can also buy a visitor pass - about for 3 days - to be used on the bus or streetcar, which can take you practically all over town and beyond. For excursions to plantations and the swamps, go with a tour company, as prices are pretty reasonable due to stiff competition. There is also a riverfront streetcar service for about , and the Mississippi ferries are mostly free or costs very little.

This plantation does an excellent job of educating visitors about the history of slavery and gives a good glimpse into the life of both master and slave as it existed. During the tour we were shown how the huge house was constructed and the intensive labor required for its daily upkeep. But the highlight here was the slave cottages themselves, thread bare and run down, tucked into a corner of the estate. Walking into these cottages was like walking back into history. Admission costs about $10 for adults and $5 for children. If you go with a tour agency, this tour is normally combined with a tour with Oak Alley. Most agencies offer a discount if you do both tours together. A list of agencies can be found at the New Orleans Welcome Center

A quintessential New Orleans experience, a swamp tour - which normally involves a boat ride down into the bayous in the outlying areas of New Orleans in search of elusive alligators - is not to be missed. There are many tour operators offering this 2 hour trip; most charge about $25 per person and an additional $13 more if you want to be picked up from your hotel in New Orleans. We went with Cajun Critters Swamp Tours. You can get a covered boat to shade you from the harsh sun but the uncovered ones allow you to spot birds and other wildlife in the trees. 'Al the Alligator'..yes, my guide actually named the critter..was lured out of his nesting spot by marshmallows as they resemble eggs. Anti- poaching laws disallow guides to lure the reptiles out with meat and such. There are many companies offering these trips, so check around the tourist information center for a good deal.

New Orleans' unique brand of voodoo can be described as a fusion of Catholic beliefs and Haitian rituals which flourished after black Haitians migrated here after the rebellion in Haiti. Voodoo is normally used as a means of soliciting advice, fortune telling and even as a form of revenge towards enemies, in the form of herbal remedies, charms and 'gris-gris' or amulets. TheVoodoo Spiritual Temple offers in -depth voodoo tours of the areas where legendary Marie Laveau, Queen of Voodoo lived, the St Louis Cemetery #1 -her pilgrimage site and Congo Square where music and merrymaking when the slaves celebrated the "Loas—Spirits" eventually gave birth to Jazz. Tours are about $20 and are an excellent value. The temple itself is filled with altars to numerous deities with offerings such as money and amazingly, lots of cigarettes! This temple is a non-profit organisation and seeks to dispel the ill-gotten reputation of voodoo as being merely a form of trickery and evil. After this tour, you will appreciate the grace and energy of voodoo and the large part it still plays in New Orleans.

A steamboat or a riverboat cruise is something the whole family can enjoy. As the old paddle wheel propels you up and down the Mississippi and jazz music wafts through the balmy air, one can almost believe he is back in the glory days of Mark Twain. Although the John James Audubon Riverboat runs trips to the Aquarium and the Audobon Zoo, and New Orleans Paddlewheels offers a fancier dinner and jazz cruise, we chose the Steamboat Natchez, as it is the closest thing to an authentic steamboat found in New Orleans today. Daytime trips are about $16, while the evening cruises are more expensive and starts at $28. The entire trip takes about 1 to 2 hours, and a New Orleans-style buffet lunch is served on board. For jazz fans, there is also a calliope on board, and the organist will play popular tunes before and after lunch. In addition to the great views of the city form the boat, we had great fun running around and exploring the steamboat!

A walking tour of the French Quarter is a must as it is the historic and cultural center of New Orleans. You can easily walk the Quarter as it is rather shady; there are many restaurants and bars if you need to take a break, although it can get rather humid in summer. This walking tour will take approximately 2 to 6 hours to complete, depending on how many museums you actually visit or how many breaks you take for food or shopping! As always, bring along a hat, drinking water, and lots of sunscreen.

You can start your walking tour at the upper end of the Quarter where you will find boisterous bars, gift shops, fancy hotels and world–class Creole restaurants here such as the ever popular NOLA, Antoine’s and Galatoire’s. Despite the hordes of tourists here, one can still marvel at the gorgeous architecture of the area. The French Quarter draws its beauty from the sheer number of aged and detailed houses, especially the filigreed cast iron gates and balconies. We saw lots of gates that had corn, grapes, and leaf motifs as well as shuttered doors and windows. Interestingly, some columns of the houses had huge ‘thorns’. This, we were told, was to prevent amorous young lovers from climbing onto the upstairs balconies of their sweethearts.

Make your way to the heart of the French Quarter, Jackson Square, one of the most picturesque parks in the United States, mainly because it is flanked by the Pontalba Buildings, the Cabildo, and the St Louis Cathedral. The Cabildo is historically significant as the site of the Louisiana Purchase transfer in 1803 and has served as the venue of the Spanish Colonial government in New Orleans. Inside you will find more than 1,000 artifacts and authentic works of art. The Cabildo is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 5pm. Tickets cost $5 for adults and are free for children.

The history of Mardi Gras is wonderfully chronicled in the permanent exhibition at the Presbytere which emphasizes major themes of the celebration such as the Masking, Parades, and Balls. Not to be missed are the unique Mardi Gras memorabilia, sequined and bejeweled handmade gowns worn by kings and queens, and antique invitations to masquerade balls. The Presbytere is closed on Mondays. Otherwise, hours are from 9am to 5pm and admission is $5 for adults. If you decide to visit the Cablido and Presbytere together, you will receive a 20% discount on the ticket price.

The square itself is an amazingly colorful and hectic place, what with carriage rides (starting from $10), tarot card readers, mimes, musicians, painters, performers, and vendors, all vying for your attention and dollars! Be sure to visit the French Market at the lower end of the Quarter near the river. It houses the Farmer’s Market and Flea Market and you will find really cheap souvenirs and trinkets here if you bargain hard!