Sailing with Siblings in the BVI

Best Of IgoUgo

Overview

A beautiful day anchorage in the BVI Photo -

Quote:

When my husband’s three siblings and their spouses announced that they’d like to join us on our annual sailing trip, I immediately decided that the British Virgin Islands (B.V.I.) would be our sailing territory this year. I wanted to be sure that we were never far from land, and, having sailed the area a couple of times in the past, I knew all would enjoy the seemingly endless array of white sand beaches that flank the clear turquoise waters, the phenomenal snorkeling opportunities, the incredible sunsets, and the exceptional dining experiences that the B.V.I. offers. The British Virgin Islands (B.V.I.) is a chain of over 40 islands, islets, and cays (pronounced “keys”) in the West Indies t...Read More

When my husband’s three siblings and their spouses announced that they’d like to join us on our annual sailing trip, I immediately decided that the British Virgin Islands (B.V.I.) would be our sailing territory this year. I wanted to be sure that we were never far from land, and, having sailed the area a couple of times in the past, I knew all would enjoy the seemingly endless array of white sand beaches that flank the clear turquoise waters, the phenomenal snorkeling opportunities, the incredible sunsets, and the exceptional dining experiences that the B.V.I. offers.

The British Virgin Islands (B.V.I.) is a chain of over 40 islands, islets, and cays (pronounced “keys”) in the West Indies that lie about 70 miles east of Puerto Rico. The islands are very close together, with Anegada being the most distant-- about 16 miles from Virgin Gorda. I never wanted to be far from landfall since all but one of our guests had either never before sailed or had very limited sailing experience. This turned out to be an exceptional foresight, I might immodestly add, because four of the crew were throwing up off the aft deck on Day 3 of our 14-day adventure. This was, happily, the only bout of seasickness suffered by any—perhaps thanks to the makers of Dramamine or perhaps due to the fact that we got caught in 40 mph winds a couple of days later. My conclusion: Fear of death trumps seasickness—which, in retrospect, could be viewed as a good thing since everyone was able to enjoy the wonderful restaurants and as much of the superb snorkeling as they wished to handle for the rest of the trip—although I would not recommend it as a cure.

Quick Tips:

Whether or not you are on a sailboat, bring plenty of bug spray. Many of the restaurants are open-air, and the no-see-ums will nibble on you as you dine. Needless to say, sunscreen is another "must have."

Although this island chain is British, the U.S. dollar is the accepted currency--no need to buy euros in advance of your trip.

If you are on a sailboat and want to take advantage of the fresh water shower facilities of Pussers on some of the islands, stock up on quarters since the ones that we visited now require them. (Nine years ago they were "free.")

Best Way To Get Around:

Renting a car is probably the cheapest mode if you are staying on land, but be advised that driving is on the opposite side of the road from the U.S., so be careful. I've heard some hair-raising stories from people who forgot that small detail.

Given that we were using our chartered sailboat as our major means of transportation, we rented taxis whenever we wanted to travel by land. They charge per person as well as per mile, and I advise that you inquire about the fare before you ride. Otherwise, the driver can name any price he wants regardless of how short the ride. Read Less

Cheer!
Flag

Pirates Bight Beach Bar and Grill

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant | "Pirates Bight"

Dinner at Pirate's Bight Photo - Pirates Bight Beach Bar and Grill, British Virgin Islands, Caribbean

Quote:

Having sailed to Norman Island and spent a couple of hours snorkeling the Caves, which are just around the corner of the Bight anchorage, the crew voted to go ashore for dinner. We elected to make reservations at Pirates Bight, which is right off the beach at the Bight. It is not as well-known as the Willie T’s (aka the William Thornton), the other restaurant at the Bight. Having visited Willie T’s (a floating restaurant and definitely worth a visit if you have not been there) on four previous visits, we chose to dine at Pirates Bight this time around, attracted by the West Indian cuisine menu. Overlooking the bay, Pirates Bight offers a romantic ambience, quite the counter to Willie T’s party atm...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on August 4, 2006

Pirates Bight Beach Bar and Grill
Norman Island
British Virgin Islands
(284) 496-7827

Cheer!
Flag

Rhymer's Beach Bar

Restaurant

Quote:

Rhymer’s Beach Bar is located right on the beach at Cane Garden Bay. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and four of our crew elected to have dinner here, (the rest of the crew remained on the boat, too tired from our long sail that day.) There is no street address for the restaurant —only a P.O. box— but it’s hard to miss. It’s the only big pink building overlooking the bay. (The phone number is 809-495-4639 should you want to call for directions.) Appearance-wise, it didn’t look like much, but we weren’t looking for "elegant" on this occasion. As it turned out, we got much more than we expected. The service was excellent, the food was delicious, and the prices were v...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 19, 2006

Rhymer's Beach Bar
Cane Garden Bay, Tortola
Tortola, British Virgin Islands
(809) 495-4639

Cheer!
Flag

Brandywine Bay Restaurant

Best Of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Quote:

I wanted our final dinner at the end of our 2-week cruise to be extra special. Based on some research I had done, I selected the Brandywine Bay Restaurant for this last meal. It is definitely a DON’T MISS! The elegant Caribbean ambience, the 5-star service, and the uniquely prepared, delicious food combined to make this a wonderfully memorable experience for all of us. Everyone still raves about the food and the experience when we talk on the phone. Although it was the most expensive place at which we dined, all believe it was also the “best value” overall. The Brandywine Bay Restaurant is located just 3 miles east of Road Town on Tortola. Perched atop a hill overlooking Brandywine Bay ...Read More

I wanted our final dinner at the end of our 2-week cruise to be extra special. Based on some research I had done, I selected the Brandywine Bay Restaurant for this last meal. It is definitely a DON’T MISS! The elegant Caribbean ambience, the 5-star service, and the uniquely prepared, delicious food combined to make this a wonderfully memorable experience for all of us. Everyone still raves about the food and the experience when we talk on the phone. Although it was the most expensive place at which we dined, all believe it was also the “best value” overall.

The Brandywine Bay Restaurant is located just 3 miles east of Road Town on Tortola. Perched atop a hill overlooking Brandywine Bay on the island of Tortola, the restaurant offers an expansive view of the Sir Francis Drake Channel. We began our dining experience on the flagstone terrace of the restaurant as we delighted in one last incredible BVI sunset, enjoying hors d’oeuvres and drinks and reliving the high points and low points of our vacation. Using a portable white board, chef and owner Davide Pugliese introduced us to the menu for the night in exquisite detail—elaborating on the preparation details, and sometimes on the source of the food item itself. The hors d’ oeuvres were unique (as were the entrees) and ranged in price from US $8 to $11. We chose to have the homemade mozzarella, the PEI mussels, and the grilled portobello mushrooms. I’m not a mussels person, but the rest of the crew were, and they raved about them. The grilled mushrooms were exceptional. I was, myself, disappointed with the homemade mozzarella; the serving was very small, and I found it to be bland, but I was alone in my disappointment. We were escorted inside for dinner, where four of our party ordered roast duck, two ordered lamb shanks, one ordered a porcini crusted tuna, and I had the tortilloni di carne. There was not one complaint—only groans of delight. I think, though, that the roast duck, prepared with a mango chutney, was the favorite of all. The four who ordered it generously shared bites with the rest of us. It was crisp on the outside, yet very moist on the inside. And the mango chutney—ooolala ! The entrees ranged from US $22 to $30.

There is no fixed menu at the Brandywine Bay as it changes daily. You can view a sample menu on the restaurant’s website—www.brandywinebay.com. The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 6:30 to 9pm. However, it is closed on major holidays and from August to October. Attire is casual elegant. Men must wear a collared shirt and long pants and no beach attire is acceptable. Reservations are strongly recommended. The telephone number is 495-2301. The restaurant monitors VHF Channel 16 after 2pm. If you are on a sailboat, there is anchorage in Brandywine Bay. We were returning our chartered boat, so we took a taxi from Road Town.
Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on September 26, 2006

Brandywine Bay Restaurant
Brandywine Bay
Tortola, British Virgin Islands
(284) 495-2301

Cheer!
Flag

Callwood Distillery

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction

The Still in Action Photo - Callwood Distillery, British Virgin Islands, Caribbean

Quote:

The Callwood Rum Distillery had been on our list of “to-dos” on previous sails around the BVI, but we had always run into a time constraint. This year we were able to tour this 406-year-old establishment, located at Cane Garden Bay on Tortola. It doesn’t appear to have a “formal” address, but you can ask any islander for directions, and he will be able to give them to you. For those of you who are sailors, it is a relatively short walk from the dinghy dock—take a left on the main road paralleling the beach and keep walking until you see the sign.I was a bit surprised by the size (small) and appearance (dilapidated) of the distillery. Our first sight was of children playing stickball imme...Read More

The Callwood Rum Distillery had been on our list of “to-dos” on previous sails around the BVI, but we had always run into a time constraint. This year we were able to tour this 406-year-old establishment, located at Cane Garden Bay on Tortola. It doesn’t appear to have a “formal” address, but you can ask any islander for directions, and he will be able to give them to you. For those of you who are sailors, it is a relatively short walk from the dinghy dock—take a left on the main road paralleling the beach and keep walking until you see the sign.

I was a bit surprised by the size (small) and appearance (dilapidated) of the distillery. Our first sight was of children playing stickball immediately in front of what turned out to be the main entrance to the brewery. We were a bit confused about whether we were indeed in the right place when a young teenager appeared and beckoned us forth. It turned out that he was a Callwood and would be our tour guide. He offered us samples of different rums that the distillery produced. When I asked if I might take pictures, he pointed to a sign indicating that there was a fee for pictures—either a nominal dollar amount or a purchase of rum was required. I myself am not a rum drinker, but the golden rum that I tasted here was so different from any other rum I had ever tasted—and so smooth—that I had to buy a bottle and thus circumvented the fee. The Callwood distillery does not, by the way, export its rum, so the only place you can buy it is in the British Virgin Islands. My husband really liked the spiced rum and bought a bottle of it as well, but our tour guide told us that this was similar to Captain Morgan’s spiced rum, which is widely available.

The tour was very interesting and well worth the small price we paid (U.S.$2 each). I learned a lot about the manufacture of rum in a very short period. For instance, I now know that the clear (white) rum is fermented for two years in clear glass carboys wile the gold-colored rum ferments for 4 years in oak casks—which explains the difference in color.

We’ll go back whenever we anchor here--if only to purchase some of this high quality, unique rum to give as gifts. (There’s also a small gift shop right at the intersection on the main road just before you turn onto the road to the distillery that I recommend you visit. I bought a very well-made t-shirt for only $5 here—much less than the gift shops along the beach charge—and my sister-in-law paid $20 for a beautiful dress. The shop is small and didn’t have a “name” displayed, but there were other trinkets and gift-type items available there as well.)
Read Less

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on August 12, 2006

Callwood Distillery
Cane Garden Bay
Tortola, British Virgin Islands

Cheer!
Flag

Snorkeling

Best Of IgoUgo

Attraction

The Indians Photo - Snorkeling, Tortola, British Virgin Islands

Quote:

There are numerous snorkeling opportunities in the British Virgin Islands. Some, however, are better than others. And—as I discovered on this trip—things change. I have often raved about the snorkeling off Loblolly Bay, Anegada. I had described it as an underwater wonderland after my experiences nine and ten years ago. Thus, I was especially looking forward to revisiting it this time around. I was incredibly disappointed. It appears that a lot of the coral has died, and the fish are not nearly as abundant. Still, it was good in comparison to other snorkeling locations in the eastern Caribbean Islands. We obviously did not visit every snorkeling spot during our 2-week cruise, and the limits of ...Read More

There are numerous snorkeling opportunities in the British Virgin Islands. Some, however, are better than others. And—as I discovered on this trip—things change. I have often raved about the snorkeling off Loblolly Bay, Anegada. I had described it as an underwater wonderland after my experiences nine and ten years ago. Thus, I was especially looking forward to revisiting it this time around. I was incredibly disappointed. It appears that a lot of the coral has died, and the fish are not nearly as abundant. Still, it was good in comparison to other snorkeling locations in the eastern Caribbean Islands. We obviously did not visit every snorkeling spot during our 2-week cruise, and the limits of this site prevent me from describing each site we did visit. Thus, I will provide the top five, as ranked by our crew, giving a bit more description for the top three.

#1: Hands down, the best snorkeling was just off the Indians. The Indians are composed of a group of large rocks protruding from the ocean just off the tiny uninhabited Pelican Island. They are just northwest of Norman Island. The area is part of the National Parks Trust, and if you are on your own boat, you can simply pick up a mooring supplied by the National Parks Trust assuming you have applied for a permit, which most sailors do when they obtain their cruising permits. The snorkeling here was incredible! We saw trumpet fish, barracuda, and swam through huge schools of sergeant majors, snappers, and jacks. It was like swimming through an overstocked aquarium. None of us had ever before experienced anything like it.

#2: Money Point, Guana Island. There are moorings here that you can pick up if you are on your own boat. We stopped here for lunch en route from Anegada. We delighted in viewing huge sea turtles, a couple of stingrays, and numerous jacks, parrotfish, permits, gags, butterfly fish, and groupers as they frolicked in their natural habitats. Definitely recommended.

#3: Although I was disappointed given my previous experiences, Loblolly Bay, Anegada, still comes in third. If you have sailed in and have anchored off the Anegada Reef Hotel, you will need to catch a taxi across the island to Loblolly Bay. I recommend that you walk to your right down the beach from the point at which the taxi drops you off. The nearest reef is close to the beach, and you can snorkel it and continue to further reefs as you wish. We found that the aquatic life was better here than it was on the reefs on the left side of the beach.

#4: The Caves off Norman Island: Bring a waterproof flashlight to have the best experience here.

#5: The Baths off Virgin Gorda

If you are not on a boat, there are numerous businesses that provide snorkeling tours. The contact information for a couple of them is provided below:

Banana Wind (Tortola): Phone: 284-499-2558; info@bananawindbvi.com
North Sound Watersports (Virgin Gorda): Phone: 284-495-7335; ginny@biras.com
Read Less

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on August 19, 2006

Snorkeling
Tortola Beach
Tortola, British Virgin Islands

Cheer!
Flag

IgoUgo

British Virgin Islands Journals

Upload Photos