HK Culture & Classics

One of the first notable highlights was the fact that so many attractions are free. The peak, beaches, gardens, and parks were all free often courtesy from the proceeds of the Jockey Club. Not that I visited places as early as 6am or as late as midnight, it was nice to know I could with a general feeling of safety. Unlike home, people are walking their pets and playing cards along sidewalks at that hour. A terrible case of insomnia might have me out at such hours, I suppose.

The fact that I could enjoy historic buildings and museums in the morning and find myself atop a peak in the evening that same day was a tremendous asset. Plenty of daylight and such diversity of sights in a small area made it possible to see so much, yet leave so much unseen.

On a personal note, I always remember my father mentioning Hong Kong from his days in the Navy many, many years ago. He had custom-made kimonos made for his daughters and dresses for his wife. I still have the postcards he sent and the jewelry boxes we received. Although I would have loved to bring him back clothes, I wouldn’t have had the measurements or known what to have made.

From his old camera, complete with light meter, he took slides that he would periodically bring out to show the family. I am now the proud owner of that camera and use it, but won’t take it out of the country. I cherished these memories and wanted to visit and photograph the places he had been like Repulse Bay and the Peak as well as ride the Star Ferry. I also thought it would very special to show him my photos and compare them to his.

Suffice it to say, the highlight of my trip was the sentimental journey.

Quick Tips:

Sunday is the day off for most workers. Parks are filled with people, some worshipping, while others enjoy playing. Transportation of all kinds is busier than usual, so I recommend spending time in Kowloon. Of course, this is also a popular day for vacationers to depart Hong Kong so traffic to Lantau where the airport is located is also busier than normal.

When I hear the destination Hong Kong, the first things that pops into my mind are towering skyscrapers, wall-to-wall buildings and plenty of vehicles and people. I had no idea that Hong Kong has 23 country parks, consuming more than 40% of the land. To miss out taking a trail or two of any length out of the dense downtown area and into the wilderness is truly an oversight. I couldn’t visit downtown San Francisco or New York City without seeing Golden Gate Park and Central Park. Hong Kong is no different. Even the tourist bureau knows this because you can get maps and park information there. Kowloon Park and Hong Kong Park are so extensive and spectacular, I would have paid admission.

While planning the attractions, I wanted to visit I make note of the opening and closing hours hoping to visit more than one place in a day. Botanical gardens and parks often have very late closing hours, except for indoor facilities, such as museums and aviaries, that often close at 5 or 6pm. With the concerns about spread of avian flu, I found some aviaries closed, some open and some partially opened.

Visit the tourist information center at the airport or ferry terminals for maps and information on accommodations, attractions and hiking. Limited availability on the Duk Ling Junk is booked at their office. These tours are only offered on Thursday and Sundays from both Kowloon and Hong Kong and are one-way. If you embark in Kowloon, you disembark in Hong Kong. A free 1-hour tour aboard a junk with a maximum of 3 people is a must!

Exchange rates at the airport are some of the worse and best avoided or utilized for the least amount necessary. Exchange houses are plentiful and charge a commission percentage, accomplished either charging the fee outright or giving you a slightly lower exchange rate. Banks charge flat transaction fees that can be a savings if you are exchanging a large sum of money.

Best Way To Get Around:

The tram, a double-decker bus, runs east-west on Des Voeux Street. Exact fare of 2HK is required. The tram has been operating the same route since 1904. Some of the main attractions it passes by include the mid-levels escalator, the Bank of China Building and Hong Kong Park.

MTR
Cost: approx , 6-1a
Several routes connecting Kowloon, Hong Kong, New Territories, and Lantau
Airport Express is part of MTR and costs 90 OW
Some travel agency offers 30 disc off airport express

KCR Train
Cost: approx 6-1a
Trains run from south Kowloon, north to LoWu border crossing and continue into mainland China.

OctopusCards
Cost: 100HK minimum +50HK deposit, non-refundable 7HK if returned before 3 months.
Uses: ferry, bus, MTR, KRC, tram, peak tram, circle-K, 7-11, KFC, McDonald’s
Discounts apply to transportation, not other services.
Suppliers: transportation facilities and convenience stores as above.

Star Ferry
Regular passenger service offers four routes between Kowloon and Hong Kong. Two from Hung Hom cost less than 6HK and the two from Tsim Sha Tsui cost under 3HK. The 10-minute crossing operates every 8-10 minutes. Other offerings include:

Unlimited hopping: 11a-10p, 150HK (19.33USD)
Limited 4-stops hops: 11a-6p, 65HK
Single Day Ride: 2p-7p, 40HK
Single Evening Ride: 7p-10p, 85HK Symphony of Lights
2-hour Evening Ride: 7p-9p, 110HK Symphony of Lights
Keep in mind it takes one hour to complete the circular route and that the Symphony of Lights begins at 8pm. Symphony of Lights tours from Watertours cost 290HK.

TurboJet
Turbo Jet offers one- hour express sea transportation between Shenzhen in mainland China to Macau, Kowloon and Hong Kong Airport. Direct transportation from Shenzhen Airport to FuYong Ferry Terminal takes less than 15 minutes. If you happen to be departing directly from Hong Kong airport, porters will tag your bags at Shenzhen airport delivering them to the appropriate airline at Hong Kong airport.

Differences between the economy and super class of service include priority embarking and disembarking, and increased luggage weight limitations. There is also a light meal and newspaper with the super class. Price difference is 200HK versus 300HK. Payment can be in Chinese currency in Shenzhen with an unfavourable exchange rate that adds another 2-3 dollars.

I had been living or rather existing in China for a while and was ready to head home. Converting my remaining colorful monopoly money back into US dollars seemed impossible in mainland China.

Since I would prefer to go out with a bang anyway, Hong Kong beckoned. Considering my funds, my current living conditions and the expense of accommodations in HK, guesthouses would be the obvious choice.

I began searching several websites for a place to stay and started to notice something odd. All the places listed had one of three addresses! How could that be?

With a little research, I discovered the Chunking Mansion, for example, built in 1961 was originally a 17-story apartment complex spread over 5 blocks. It now houses 90 guesthouses. Do the math. That means one floor is <_>not dedicated to a single guesthouse. What was an individual apartment is now a dorm or guest room.

Whether it was curiosity or sadistic thoughts, I decided this would be an exciting experience----until I learned more. I discovered the first two floors housed very pungent Indian restaurants with over zealous fake Rolex hawkers and known for raids on the illegal workers who lived on the floors above. Furthermore, Chunking Mansions were synonymous with prostitution, drugs, and crime.

Rooms were efficient though. You could sit on the toilet, brush your teeth, and take a shower at the same time. The beds were compact and could easily sleep anyone under 5 feet tall. You didn’t need an alarm or a cup of coffee to wake up because the neon lights shining through your window, if you had a window, and the noise from the traffic were enough to keep you going.

Apparently the Mirador Mansions, just 2 blocks away enjoyed similar features minus the Indian influence and notorious reputation.

Nonetheless, the whole idea of experiencing this still appealed to me. So at which one did I stay? I chose the Sincere House located just off Nathan Road a mile away. I would get the experience I wanted without the----options I didn’t need.

I made reservations for a single room with shared bathroom at the Dragon Hostel located on the 7th floor of the Sincere House for about $30 a night.

The location was excellent for everything. I was ½ block away from the ladies market where there is a lot more than what the name implies, 1 block from the MTR station, 3 blocks from KCR station, 2 blocks from the airport shuttle and on the same block as a 7-11. The room was small with bed, TV and some shelves, but it was quite and clean.

A dining table, refrigerator and microwave enabled me to enjoy microwave popcorn that I had been craving along with a bowl of noodles when it was just a little too late to be heading out.

Mirador Mansion 58-60 Nathan Rd
Chungking Mansion 36-44 Nathan Rd
Sincere House 83 Argyle

Sometimes it appears it's a race to hold the dubious distinction of being the tallest building in Hong Kong at the same time trying to achieve a little bit of uniqueness from the surrounding ones. My favorite building isn’t the tallest and maybe wouldn’t be considered the most interesting structure if such a title existed. Nonetheless, I will save that one for last. Meanwhile, I will mention some of the highly touted tall skyscrapers that are also involved in the light show.

Jardines House held the title of tallest building in Hong Kong from 1973 to 1980 at 179 meters. One of the unique features of this building is the huge round windows on sides like a square cheese grater.

The Bank of China, another former tallest building, built in 1990, contains 70 stories reaching 368 meters in height. It is currently the third tallest. The 43rd floor is open to the public Monday to Friday from 8am-8pm for up close and personal views of the downtown area. The design looks like a stock of bamboo made of mirrors. The triangle feature at the top supposedly creates bad feng shui to others buildings. I guess that means this is the building to work in.

One of the more splendid buildings, Two IFC, completed in 2003 it is 420 meters high with 88 stories. The jump performed in Tomb Raider II was from the 83rd floor. The tallest building in Hong Kong, offering spectacular views, the dome architecture at the top makes this a beautiful building as well. It houses a variety of upscale international restaurants, shops, and a cinema. Events range from poetry exhibits to handicrafts and fashion shows.

My favorite skyscraper Hong Kong Shanghai Bank headquarters (HSBC), originally built in 1865. Expanding operations required demolishing and rebuilding in 1886, 1935 and most recently 1978. The current building, completed in 1985, stands at 594’ with 47 stories. My interest in this building is not so much the history or the building itself, per se, but the unique inner workings.

There is not, I repeat not, an elevator that stops on every floor. Instead, an elevator stops every few floors with escalators connecting the floors in between. I am clueless as to the reason but find it interesting.

Good feng shui includes a view of the water in order to prosper. The HSBC building has managed to acquire of an obstructed view of Victoria Harbor where a wide-open area was constructed.

Natural sunlight provides the majority of lighting. Mirrors that reflect the light into the lower levels surround an atrium at the top. External sunshades block direct light to reduce heat. Seawater is used for toilets as well as a coolant for the air-conditioning unit.

Flooring constructed of movable panels reveals power sources making repairs and installation of computer and telecommunications equipment easier and more efficient.

The energy conserving and eco-friendly methods contained in this structure should be a model for future buildings everywhere.

At the base of the Big Buddha are signs indicating the direction to the Wisdom Path trail and Lantau Peak.

A shaded walkway passing a small vegetarian restaurant that was unfortunately was closed, leads to the Wisdom Path. The path follows is a figure 8, sign of infinity, around tall tree trunks that were split vertically split. On the flat sign of these totem-pole-like pillars were carvings of Chinese symbols and characters. Also called the Heart Sutra, it represents emptiness, but not in the negative way that comes to mind. It is more like the feeling of being free of worldly concerns and material items.

This 2-minute path located on the side of the mountain offered spectacular views of Lantau Peak as well as the aqua blue bay below. This lush area is a haven for dragonflies, butterflies, and birds. Lizards, frogs, and fish make their home within the freshwater streams along the way.

The path continues on to Lantau Peak where a view of the airport, skyline, and outer islands limited only by weather conditions. Nonetheless, it is a breathtaking break from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong Island. Although Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island is the highest point, Lantau Peak is the highest you can climb. The heat and humidity made me the perfect international cuisine of gnats and mosquitoes. A sign warning of Japanese mosquitoes carrying the dengue virus elicited a roll of the eyes and smirk from me. Was I expected to see and be able identify what bit me? Besides, the layers of skin I was scratching off from the bitten area surely went deep enough to include any venom.

TEMPLE 40 MINUTES:

Lo Hon Temple was built as recently as 1974, but Buddhism has been practiced in this grotto since 1926. It is open from 8-4pm.

FORT 30 MINUTES:

Originally built to quell the opium trade, the Tung Chung Fort became a monument in 1979. In 1988 the granite wall and watch tower were repaired and restored. The compound contains six old cannons and covers a 70x80 meter area with splendid views of north Lantau.

TUNG CHUNG TOWN:

Following the bus route, you arrive at Tung Chung Town Center where you can visit restaurants and shops. From here, you can take the MTR back to Kowloon or Hong Kong. Unlike other destinations, this town really lacks any signs to sights or transportation and I left on the MTR rather quickly after getting lost for half an hour.

A cable car from Tung Chung to the monastery was supposed to open June 22, then June 26 so I postponed my hike a couple of days to get in on the grand opening. Unfortunately the dry runs indicated spacing problems between cars and a couple of other problems. It certainly looks like the view from above would be worth it. One-way tickets, round trips and packages including the Big Buddha and vegetarian meal were already being offered online.

To reach Lantau Island from Kowloon and Hong Kong, there are a couple of options. The MTR Tung Chung line begins at the Central station in Hong Kong, making several stops in Kowloon and terminating at Ngong Ping on Lantau. Star Ferry to Hong Kong, Outlying Islands Ferry to Mui Wo on Lantau and bus 2 to Ngong Ping took 2 hours. Going by boat is worth the additional half-hour.

The Giant Buddha/Tian Tan is the world’s tallest outdoor seated bronze Buddha. The lower floors, both inside and outside, are free. The other two require an additional fee, whose higher levels don’t provide any better view. Buddha resides atop a three-pedestal platform that is actually a three-story exhibition hall. Including the base the height of the Giant Buddha is 111 feet and weighs over 250 tons. It is a very imposing figure rising up from this island, and its grandeur isn't diminished by any nearby skyscrapers like those that you encounter on Hong Kong Island. You have no choice but to crane your neck to look straight up feeling dwarfed. Although it is open from dawn to dusk, it is a good idea to avoid the sun at its highest for photography reasons as well as the glare to your eyes.

The Buddha isn’t very old; in fact, it was completed in 1993, 22 years in the making, following the construction of the large temple. On the other hand, the Po Lin Monastery dates back to 1924.

Some of the features to take note of, an easy task considering the size, are the long ear lobes that indicate wisdom and happiness. The curled thick locks of hair are a sign of perfect wisdom. Long but plump fingers combine tenderness with strength. On his chest a swa sticker, for lack of a better term, represents endless virtues and compassion, a far cry from the symbol usually invokes.

On the lower platform surrounding the statue are six divas. These bronze ladies are posed in half kneeling positions offering gifts to Buddha. Each of the following gifts offered has a special significance.

Incense – precepts so actions will be aromatic
Flowers – charity
Ointment – zeal
Lamp – patience
Fruits – meditation toward enlightenment
Music – practice leads to wisdom

Nearby is Po Lin Monastery superbly located on the 520-meter high Ngong Ping Plateau surrounded by mountains with a skyline background. It is open from 9-6 and has a vegetarian restaurant on premise.