Split...more than just a Easy Jet Croatian destination

www.hostelsplit.com
Al's Place is a great little hostel in Split (the first in fact). Al is a British x-pat, who has a great sense of humor and is ready and willing to show you a good time. There are 12 beds in two rooms, two bathrooms and a kitchen. The showers aren't the nicest ever but there is water pressure and hot water so it is all good.
He also has a private room available.
The rooms are bare but the atmosphere is always good. This is a place where real travelers of all ages stay. It is central to everything but a bit tricky to find the first time, so print the directions from the website.
When I stayed there was a full house and Al took us out for pizza and wine (pizza on us and wine on him) one night and then next night we watched the world cup game (England vs same one) at a local bar. Al is always up for going out and showing you his favorite parts of the city. I had a blast and met a group of people to continue my travels through Croatia with.

THE BEST SLICE OF PIZZA you will find in Split, and cheap! Non has a friendly, somewhat English-speaking staff and a wide menu of Italaina dishes, but what is the best is the pizza. Pick up a slice from the window for 5 kn (about $1). Fresh pies come out all the time.

The "Green Market" is an experience unto itself. I spent an hour wondering through the alleys of the open-air market, marveling at all the beautiful fresh fruits and veggies as well as meat, cheese, and bread.

This is also a great place to go people watching. Slow down for a moment and watch the old ladies haggle. The place clears out around 3pm and becomes a youth hangout. I watched a band place here and saw an old pladie dancing to the industrial punk music. An old man sold coins, paper money, metals, and a random assortment of other old stuff as well.

Croatia was the last destination on a 3-month solo-backpacking trip through Europe. With 10 days left in my trip I arrived in Split, exhausted, cranky and very tired of traveling. After 3 months of changing locations every 3 to 5 days all I really wanted was to go home.

Split was hot and very sunny and I needed a hat desperately, so I ventured out of my youth hostel and to the goods market that surrounds the fruit and veggie market. I was looking at sun hats and being hassled by the woman who owned the booth, I really didn't want to haggle I just wanted a hat and at the moment when I most wanted to give up and go on my way with out at hat or just stay inside for the next 10 days, I saw something out of the corner of my eye and fell in love with Split.

It was a woman, and old woman who looked like the pictures of my great grandma, a babushka (grandma) I would have called her. She was dressed in all black, with a scarf over her head and a face that should the effects of time and the war in every crease of her beaming smile. She was dancing... Rocking out to the modern music of a group of young artist playing in the abandoned fruit market. She spun in circles with her arms out and rocked her head and body to the beat like children do at hippie festivals. Her eyes where close and she smiled the most beautiful smile I have ever seen.

At that moment I forgot about the sun and the heat and the hat and walked towards the band, sat down and watched them play. I sat there for most the afternoon. After about 45 minutes one of the girls that was taking pictures of the band came up to me and took my picture and started to talk to me. This was the first time in my who trip that someone, not living out of a backpack, really talked to me. By the end of the bands set most of the watchers where hanging around where I had sat talking to me about art, music, fashion and the effects of the war. It was a game of translation with some, and those who spoke beautiful English translated for those who spoke none.
This group of people, all about my age had experience the most gruesome war and near genocide, they where in there early twenties and had seen so much violence and hatred and still were sitting here taking the time to talk to me about art.

I was in love. Split with its punk/goth counter culture and vibrance was my city.