Madrid!

The bullfight. You have to see a bullfight.

The Prado. It's huge. Overwhelming. But certainly a must-do.

Using Spanish! It's so great to be surrounded by a language you know a little about. Every time someone spoke to me and I understood, I was thrilled!

Quick Tips:

Visit the museums on their free days—Sunday for the Prado, Saturday after 2:30pm and Sunday for the Reina Sofia.

Head to Gran Via for lots of shopping, restaurants, and ice-cream.

It gets really hot in Madrid in the summer—make sure you have water with you; you'll want it.

The Chamartin station is really busy. I waited in line for a ticket for more than an hour. If you're going there with business to do, make sure you don't have to be anywhere else for a while.

Best Way To Get Around:

The metro. Madrid is really big, so unless you manage to get accommodations right within walking distance of the things you care about, you'll want to buy a metro pass. A 2-day tourist pass was €6.30. They come in 1-, 2-, 3-, 5, and 7-day versions. You can also buy a ticket good for 10 rides, or, of course, single-ride tickets.

I bought my ticket for the Sunday night bullfight on Sunday afternoon, and I ended up with a fantastic seat for just €5. The show lasts about 2 ½ hours, and take note: you'll be sitting on a concrete seat. It gets highly uncomfortable. There are cushions available for rent, but I don't know how much they cost.

This particular fight was a young bullfighters fight. There were three young men, each had two bulls.

I didn't think I'd be able to tell a difference between the young matadors and the more experienced matador I saw in Portugal, but I could. Sometimes these guys couldn't get the spears to stick, and once one of them only got the sword in halfway—and that was supposed to be the killing stroke. Didn't happen.

At the start, the matador would enter the ring. Then they would release the bull and the matador would play with it for a short time. (This can be a little showy—one fo them even started on his knees!) Then the other matador-esque people, the helpers, the ones referred to as "mini-matadors" in my Portugal entry, help him out. At this point, they stay mostly behind the fence.

Then a bugle sounds, and two men come out on heavily armoured horses, each guy carrying a big spear. They wait for the bull to charge the horse, and they stick the spear into its back and hold it there. They usually managed to do this twice before the bugle would sound again, signaling the riders to exit the ring.

This was the most interesting, nail-biting segment for me. The bull charges with such force. The horse is sometimes on only two or three legs. Once I thought the bull would flip the horse entirely. Another time, the rider dropped his spear and nearly fell off.

Then the matadors, usually the two who weren't "the" matador for that particular bull, would stick spears in his back, two at a time for a total of six. One guy had real trouble with getting them to stay; you could tell he was pretty embarrassed.

The other part I really love is the end. The matador sticks the entire sword into his back. The bull staggers a bit, stays on its feet a while, and the matador stands in front of it, commanding it to fall. Sometimes it looked like a demand, and that wasn't nearly as dramatic and interesting as it was when it looked like a request -- a request that the bull surrender, give over to death, and show the matador the respect he deserves.

The show starts at 9:00, but it can still be pretty hot at that point. Bring some water, and maybe something with which to fan yourself.

Let's be honest: we are attracted to certain careers and the men or women who have them. Mom wants us to marry doctors or lawyers, we want to marry rock stars or airlines pilots (have you seen those guys in their uniforms?). I never would have thought it, but matador has made my list of Most Attractive Occupations.

And why?

It's not the sequins or the tight pants, and it's certainly not the pink socks. I laughed every time they strutted toward the bull and rolled my eyes when they planted their feet, hands on their hips, even when they found themselves in trouble (like when one of them dropped his cape). So what's left? What is it?

Maybe it's something about they way they face danger unfazed. Something about the dignity with which they command the bull to fall at their feet, the dignity with which they wear those costumes. Something about family, love, tradition. Something primitive, something in their man vs. beast struggle.

I can't help it. I was sucked in. Does anyone know a matador? I'd like to meet him.

I had no intention of visiting Segovia, but I met some people in Madrid who were originally from Segovia, and they invited me there with them for a night. Gladly, I went along.

Segovia is only about an hour's bus ride (€6, one way) from Madrid's Principe Pio station. What a beautiful city! No wonder my new Spanish friends take the weekend to go home.

Highlights include the aqueduct, built by the Romans 2,000 years ago, the cathedral, and the castle. It's a rather touristy town, so you'll find more than enough souvenir shops and the like. There's a tourist information office right by the aqueduct.

My friends get tired of going out in Segovia, because, they say, it's always the same bars, same people—typical of small-town life. So, it seems that while the town is touristy by day, the nightlife stays fairly local. Indeed, I only met two Americans, and they were living in Segovia for the summer to work on their Spanish.

If you have a spare day, Segovia is worth a stop.

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia
Monday-Saturday 10:00-9:00 pm
Sunday 10:00-2:30 pm
Closed Tuesday
Admission: 6,00 euros (students 3,00)
Free on Sunday and Saturday after 2:30

The Reina Sofia rivals the Prado, as far as I'm concerned. Sure, when we think Madrid, we think Prado, but if you like art museums you won't want to miss the Reina Sofia, either.

When I was there, they had a special Picasso exhibition on display. Since it carries with it an additional cost, I didn't go, but I wasn't disappointed -- the permanent collection includes several Picassos, anyway -- some of my favorites of his that I've seen. I really enjoyed it.

Of course, you'll also see works by Dali. This was a real treat for me -- the first Dalis I've ever seen in real life. They're fascinating paintings, even though I wouldn't necessarily want them hanging in my living room.

I went on a Saturday afternoon, and it was pretty crowded. Since I got there just before 2:30, I also had to stand in line outside -- in the hot, hot heat -- but it was well worth it. The Reina Sofia has a fantastic collection.

Museo del Prado
Tuesday-Sunday 9:00-8:00 pm (closed Monday)
Admission: 6,00 euros (students: 3,00)
Free on Sundays

The Prado is overwhelming, but you have to be brave and go--how can you visit Madrid and skip the Prado? Break it down into manageable chunks, take it room by room, and you'll be fine.

It's full of the greats, all of Spain's darlings. Don't miss Goya, Velazquez, or El Greco. Of course, you'll also want to see the works by my personal favorite, Rubens. I love that his paintings shows up in almost every museum I've visited. He's excellent.

If you go in the summer, expect to fight the crowd, but I promise you, it's worth it for this museum. Enjoy!