Lisbon's New Age of Discovery

Too good to be true isn't always the case. At least that's what I found in Lisbon; perhaps Europe's most under-stated and rated capital city. Out of 17 European countries visited, Lisbon is the only place that inspired a second, prolonged rendezvous. And I'd go back tomorrow if opportunity presented itself. Longing for Lisbon is a state of mind; terra cotta sprawls rolling beyond the seven hills, aromas of Spring sweetening the dank, crumbling stuccos.

The Age of Discovery might have launched from here by sea more than 500-years ago, but the City still entertains seek-and-find encounters by land, just as classic.

No place requires a sense of breakthrough more than The Alfama District; the city's oldest neighborhood, built in true Moorish Kasbah style. Through series of narrow streets and alleys, and winding staircases, this compact human maze meanders upwards towards Castelo de São Jorge; undoubtedly offering the best sweeping views across Lisbon and the Tagus River.

For all the antiquated charm within heart of the city, it's rather hard to comprehend that the Baixa District is considered "novice". The Alfama, and further afield Belém District, survived the devestating earthquake, fires and tidal surges which obliterated the central valley. The 1755 rebirth is astounding! Splendors are concealed while standing within the palace-hemmed Praça do Comércio. Discovery awaits beyond the majestic archway which leads into the city; architectural granduer purely from exultation; not fortification.

For all that glorifies days of yore, new pretext is largely defined from hosting the 1998 World Exhibition. Chance to witness the city's before and after progress only expanded itenerary, including The Ocenario; best in Europe and second largest aquarium in the world! Afterall, Lisbon has reputation to uphold; monumental standards first set in the Belém District.

Identity of the world beyond was shaped from these shores. Leading the way in navigation, Portugal propsered from trade routes opened throughout the Eastern Hemisphere. The great explorers shipped-out from here; to follow in their footsteps is to measure and marvel achievements of fortune!

Banks of the Tagus are tell-tale, including the modern Monument of the Discoveries, and historic Torre de Belém. However, nothing compares to Mosteiro dos Jerónimos; an ornate Cathedral and Cloisters, that remains one of my favorites in all of Europe.

Regardless of what you're searching for, Lisbon's is guaranteed to fulfill the broadest senses of discovery -- even a second time around.

Quick Tips:

Seasonal Lisbon
The first visit absolutely spoiled me -- a late-March birthday trip, where Spring had sprung in full bloom. Skies were clear, days were warm, and everything was enhanced with that annual renewal that jump-starts us all. Conditions were so picture-perfect, it made the lousy winter weather forgiveable!

My second stay was longer, during the Holiday Season. Still better than nothing, there wasn't the Yuletide fanare found in most European cities, nor was there much sunshine. These reviews combine experiences and photos from both seasons, though I'm highly recommending Spring!

Tongue Twisters
The Portuguese are not confused about who they are, and have no problem clueing travelers in on the obvious; namely involving language. Stemming from the eternal rival with Spain, locals would rather you speak Swahili or even "English" than to address them in Spanish. Trouble is, it's all but a trap because the two languages appear so similar!

Ok, it's Bairro Alto and not Barrio Alto; the confusing list of examples rather lengthy. It's always good to try and learn the basic phrases for anywhere traveled. Just keep in mind: Portuguese might be written to look like Spanish and even Italian, but -- the vowels are pronounced like French!

The Lisboa Card
Good for 1-3-5-day passes, these cards are convenient but were only worth the money if planning to jam-pack everything into break-neck tourist speed. Don't sell yourself short, and come-up even shorter. Admissions were not that expensive to begin with, and museums and some attractions are free on Sundays. If you've got the wealth of time and minimal extra cash, enjoy it! Lisbon is a City of leisure, and definitely worth while taken at a slower pace.

Motherland by Proxy
With all of Portugal's sea-faring explorations and discoveries came landclaims and colonies. One of the most stark differences between visits was the number of Africans that have poured-in out of destitution and desperation. Unfortunately, their plights followed.

Refugees have only increased along with the problems, including street crimes and sales involving drugs, as blatant as Amsterdam. Lisbon still maintains one of the lowest city crime rates of the continent, but travelers definitely need to be aware, and expect frequent approaches when out after dark.

Best Way To Get Around:

Lisbon On-Foot
As in most European cities, the prescribed measure for getting around is to walk, and Lisbon definitely caters to the challenge! Bulging calves of older ladies, wearing flats or heels, can attest to that thanks to the City sprawling across seven hills. Stairs and steps are everywhere, so get in shape and be prepared!

-- Calcado de Duque is the main pedestrianized artery connecting the Baixo district with Bairro Alto if walking. Coming down isn't so bad, but the 275-steps going-up will definitely prove what you're made of.

The slow-moving, inexpensive Elevador da Gloria funicular spares the climb. When reaching the top, Parque Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara waits to the immediate right, and is one of my favorite places in the entire city!

On the Go...
The City's metro-system is a quick and efficient way for reaching numerous attractions. Tickets can be purchased at windows or automate machines, in book quantities or for single rides. However, the charms of Lisbon are the old cable car trams, including Tram #28; the most popular ride in town, that's an attraction all to itself.

Most every line passes through Praça do Comércio; a good start or stopping point. Notice how politely everyone queues single-file to board. Tickets are purchased on-board; make sure they're also validated in the process.

-- Bus lines also frequent the international airport, and follow a couple of routes which thread the Baixa District. I cabbed it both times on the way back; either way was some of the cheapest fares in all of Europe!

Farther Afield
Lisbon makes a perfect base for exploring central Portugal on popular Day Trips described in that journal. Shorter destinations are best made on regional trains from a pair of stations:

-- Cais do Sodré, along the waterfront near Praça do Comércio, is the quickest public transportation connection to Cascais and Estoril; Atlantic resort towns. Trains can also be taken to the Belém District, but require more walking upon arrival. Specific directions are within those reviews.

-- Termini Rossio is somewhat of a historic attraction from the outside, and a frenzy of activities once inside. Trains for Queluz Palace and Sintra depart regularly.

The Arco do Cego Bus Terminal is located near the Saldanha Metro Stop, and provided inexpensive, luxury coach connections to Obidos, Tomar, and Nazaré. The station opens at 6:00am, with first departures shortly later.

Consideration was given for staying at another pension in the Bairro Alto district, but Pensao Residencial Camoes was worth a repeat visit. Their 18 rooms are spacious and fully furnished with ample dressers, armoirs, and other extras usually not found in the cheapies. They've everything from singles to larger rooms, which can accommodate up to six people.

Aside from comfortable beds and pillows, they don't skimp on the linens when it comes to spreads and blankets during cooler weather, with plenty more to distribute should you need one. Guests use modernized, shared bathrooms which are evenly disbursed around the main floor. There was never a wait, even with numerous occupancies. Cleanliness of restrooms and the entire facilities was impeccable; almost to the point of disruptiveness.

Daytime naps were hard to come by with industrious cleaning and cooking of the staff! Typical of most European pensions I've stayed in, Camoes is a structure that seems to magnify and echo the slightest of noises. At night, the volume really increases thanks to a separate bar and discoteque at street level.

Rooms with balconies don't cost extra, but I switched after one night. Even if sleeping through loud music isn't a problem, street revelers after the 4:00am closing were impossible to ignore. Rooms towards back of the house are definitely preferable, and still consider ear plugs if you're not a heavy sleeper.

-- Camoes is located on the quaint sidestreet of Travessa do Poço de Cidade 38. (phone number) Reservations and credit cards accepted, though I showed-up both times unannounced and had no problem finding space. Rates vary, depending more on the number of people than actual room, and discounts are available for extended stays. English and various European languages are spoken.

-- Guests also have access to a service bar and commons area with television and reading materials. Meal plans were optional and negotiable. Staff can also assist with booking tours and local information.

-- Camoes is on the third floor, and there's no elevator. Consider it daily conditioning for enjoying Lisbon! There are 275 steps which connect Baixo district with Bairro Alto, using Calcado de Duque. A convenient taxi stand is at top of the stairs, around Largo Trindade Coelho, across from Igreja de São Roque. Camoes is a brief walk away.

Further north along Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara, the Elevador da Gloria funicular is an inexpensive option for sparing the climb. It arrives/departs just to the side of Parque Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, which shouldn't be missed day or night. It's also a great place for spending "down time" for anyone staying within the Bairro Alto district.

-- Pensao Globo, Pensao Duque and Pensao Estala de Ouro are also popular, inexpensive accommodations in the Bairro Alto. Checking around, none compared in price or facility to what's available at Camoes.

With selections as endless as tastes and price ranges, deciding where to eat in Lisbon was never a problem. Determining how to eat is what kept food budgets in-check while still enjoying splurges.

Even in high-traffic tourist areas, such as pedestrianized Rua das Portas da Santo Antão, stocked as a glutton's paradise, dining options were more lengthy than displayed menus. Competition invites comparative browsing for selections and prices, under watchful encouragements of sidewalk maitre des versed in multiple languages.

Finding a place that nets savings on desired entree was only the beginning. Deciphering concepts of cover charge, which can run almost as high as main courses, was a little more tricky.

When seated, staff quickly appear with plates of Tapas, cheeses, breads; makings for a meal unto itself. After repeatedly spoiling appetite, refrainment was a pay-off that still required pay-out! If you don't want these appetizers, insist they take everything away when they start unloading. Otherwise, you're charged whether touching anything or not.

Allure of sidewalk dining also plays a major factor in bill total; even for something simple like a cup of coffee. Outdoors ran $3.50 where an inside table was$2. Better yet, standing at the bar was only $1. Especially in local cafes, eating/drinking at the bar is the cheaper, preferred way to go as was tossing napkins, butts and waste on the floor.

Portuguese make quick work of counter breakfasts and lunches; a couple of pastries and cups of coffee easily $3. Lunch, of a pair of sandwiches, bag of chips and coke averaged $5. Window displays seem to be the rage, whether stacks of sandwiches, bountiful piles of seafoods, or entire beef carcasses. Elaborate arrays don't always mean upscale prices.

Restaurants post numerous daily specials for lunch and dinner. Steaks are surprisingly topped with a fried egg, and most everything is doused with a generous squirt of fresh lemon juice. Seabass, regardless of preparation style, was also the best ever tasted.

Bota Alta, on the Bairro Alto corner of Travessa da Queimada 37, was where I frequently had dinner with close proximity to Camoes Residencial. Worth the splurge, an appetizer, entree with salad, dessert and a bottle of wine averaged $20 with cover charge and tip. Menu and atmosphere are Old World Portugal though they don't have live Fado music; a major feature in most Bairro Alto restaurants.

--Early dinners are unheard of. Without reservations, luck determines where you eat. The entire Bairro Alto district appears uninhabited until 8:00pm, when most places begin opening. Within 30-minutes, tables had filled so plan ahead!

Corner markets, and convenient-type stores along major thoroughfares, are inexpensive ways to stock rooms and pick-up munchables while roaming. Portuguese wines are often cheaper than water. They'll open bottles upon request; sipping in public "tolerated".

Vinho Verde is a local specialty, comparable to Germany's superb Rhine Valley whites. However, overindulgence on the green grape concoction can reek havoc on digestive systems, making public facilities seem ever farther and fewer between.

What Christopher Columbus initiated, the Portuguese mastered in charting the Seven Seas. No place glorifies or emphasizes this more than the monumental waterfront along the Belém District.

It was from these shores Vasco de Gama launched the expedition that would change the 16th Century world. Upon successful return, and actually finding a route to the Far East, floodgates for breakthroughs were opened. Unlike Spain's gold-hungry agenda netting land wealth in the Americas, Portugal flourished with global shipping trade and established colonies.

The Pradão dos Descobrimentos, Monument of the Discoveries, was a 1960 tribute to Henry the Navigator, on the 500th Anniversary of his death. As primary instructor and benefactor of expeditions, that's him on the prow holding a small ship; rather figurative seeings how he never actually sailed.

Depictions of the great explorers, kings, and even notable art contributors are a line-up of originator on many fronts. Even if names aren't familiar, life-like statues are worth contemplations.

Atop the tower is a wind-swept observation deck that shouldn't be missed. The regional overview is superb, but highlight perspectives come from looking down at the colossal mosaic compass and map sprawling across the courtyard entry. It's absolutely impossible to appreciate this work of art at ground level -- just as the caravel shape of the monument is better admired from a distance. There's plenty of chances for glancing back when including Torre de Belém as part of the segment.

This ornate bulwark was an essential splurge once Portugal struck it rich. When completed in 1521, it was centrally located in the Tagus, where river's mouth opened into the Atlantic bay. Shores, which used to border Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, have been resculpted by time. Tide levels now determine appearance of a moat, only enhancing the medieval mystique.

Exterior facade is loaded with maritime and religious icon reliefs, mirroring the Manueline architectural style of the counterpart monastery. A head-on viewing of the Our Lady of Safe Homecoming statue was what mariners sought on departure and return, and so should you to be 'blessed' with a full composite, including portals, loggia, and the finest of structural details.

The dungeon prison area and three levels of the tower are open for explorations, and worth a look while here. Upper-level observation deck doesn't measure up with the one at Monument to the Discoveries, and nothing inside compares to outer-courtyard on the main floor.

-- There's plenty of walking required; a good mile separates the Monument and Tower. Stay close to the outer-road because of numerous dead-end passages around marinas and boat slips.

-- Including these with Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is a natural. Details for getting here, including the underground tunnel connection, are included within that review.

-- Lisbon's Museu de Arte Popular (Folk Art) is between these two main attractions. The waterfront includes upscale restaurants, smaller eateries, craft stalls, roving vendors; all you'd expect in a high-traffic tourist zone.

Touring European cities often leads to "church overload". Lisbon also has its fair share, but make sure to include Igreja de São Vincente de Fora. It's more than could be expected, though one would never know that without venturing inside.

Completed in 1627 to honor St. Vincent, the city's patron saint, that's him in stone keeping watch over the central entrance. He also waits in life-sized wooden form to the left, once entering the nave. For all the ornate detail found in most Cathedrals, appeal of São Vincente is lack of embellishments. Bare walls tower over the backless pews which line unpretentious hardwood floors, scuffed smooth over centuries.

While the main church is free to explore, there's a small admission for entering the Cloisters; easily missed, or skipped as yet "another" like during my first visit. For all the humble highlights of the main Cathedral, the remainder is what categorizes this as Lisbon's Best Kept Secret.

A separate entrance, to right of the Cathedral, leads into the Cloisters where walls are adorned with 18th Century azulejo murals, illustrating the fables of La Fontaine. Familiarity with his tales (which I wasn't) should only increase appreciation, but these are hardly extent of what waits.

Refectory of the church was something to marvel, loaded with frescoed walls and ceilings. Various areas contain ornate burial vaults of the Bragança Dynasty, which ruled Portugal during the 1640 independence from Spain to the early 20th century. In largest room to the rear, don't miss or suddenly be spooked by the stone figure kneeling in prayer at the tomb of Carlos I.

There's also a second level of the Cloisters, containing more azulejo murals. However, find the obscure series of stairs/passageways for accessing roof of the Cathedral, which is the real highlight!

Spectacular overviews of the Cloisters trail off towards terra cotta sprawls lining the Tagus river. Vantage points are better to the rear, including Santa Engrácia National Pantheon. Vertically challenged people will have problems seeing over the wall, but here's something for those not "short-changed" on seeking adventure.

Where Cathedral dome bulges in center of the roof, notice service steps ascending to the pinnacle. With no one watching, I gingerly scaled the top and played lightning rod as a storm approached. Even without wet slippery conditions, wind gusts certainly upped the challenge; accomplishing the "forbidden" more satisfying than the views.

-- The church remains open, but Cloisters are closed between 12:30-3pm. "Fora" indicates it was built outside the original city. This, and the Pantheon, are a short, worth-while meander while visiting the Alfama and Castelo de São Jorge.

-- Continental agendas are to thank for this classic. After Spain's reinvasion of Portugal in 1580, the staunch Catholics were looking to further squelch Moorish Muslim influence. King Phillip II turned to Rome. Felipe Terzi, architectural genius of Italian Renaissance, was commissioned to load the city with churches. São Vincente is by far his most impressive contribution.

During my first visit, the city was fairly wrecked with preparations for the opening of Expo '98. Years later, it was nice to see what progress had accomplished, and how Lisbon had evolved from the efforts. Unlike Olympic complexes, which usually end-up an obsolete burden, this World Expedition project left behind something with ongoing benefits.

Expo Urbe is a 10-year development plan, which only began with the main event. Once a polluted industrial eyesore, this prime riverfront property is destined to become heart of the new city. While modernization could never surpass the grandeur of Praça de Comercio and the Baixa district, this community of the future certainly has enough to warrant a day on itineraries; especially a good option for when it's raining.

Most come here for the Oceanarium, which is certainly the main attraction, but hardly the limit. In fact, shopaholics, and even casual browsers, will need to restrain themselves just for getting there thanks to a Mega-Mall which extends between the Metro-stop and riverfront grounds.

The mammoth exhibition halls now entertain cultural and educational-geared events, which only compliments the Capital's wealth of museums. Food kiosks pepper the outer-corridors for quick bites, but visitors also can choose from numerous upscale restaurants positioned along the concourse. If nothing more and the weather cooperates, it's worth sitting at a riverfront table to indulge panoramas over a Portuguese bottle of wine.

The promenade is lined with small gardens and ample clusters of shaded benches for catching a breather. Lay-out of the facilities makes for plenty of walking. Everything was accessible for the handicapped except the cable cars. These run between the Oceanarium and the other main attraction, which I certainly recommend.

The distant Vasco de Gama Tower is certainly worth the walk or ride for getting a bird's-eye view, provided the weather's clear. The 18km Vasco de Gama bridge is an exemplary work of art, unto itself! Aside from spectacular overviews, there's also a pricey restaurant on one of the upper levels.

-- Take the red Metro-line to the Oriente stop, and be prepared to walk quite some distance underground. I recommend entering lower-level of the mall, and weaving to the distant end, which opens onto the Expo complex. Otherwise, taking the first series of exit stairs requires crossing busy thoroughfares and detouring quite some distance around the mall.

-- The 340 hectare development strategy aims to recharacterize Lisbon as one of Europe's most contemporary urban areas. Luxury condo and commercial towers are destined to accommodate more than 20,000 people, with a wellness approach for living to include bicycle/walking-trails around a pair of expansive parks, fishing piers, and the city's largest marina.

Results were impressive and commendable, but -- Lisbon is still my favorite European city thanks to the peerless historic areas; not modern more-of-the-same. Thankfully, the Expo area is far enough away that hills block the new skyline from mesmerizing vantage points in the downtown area; perhaps the most ingenious component of the entire plan.

Coming to Lisbon for the Holiday season was a mixed bag that I don't regret, but also probably wouldn't recommend. Compared to other European cities, the Portuguese renditions mirrored the culture's ultra-conservative approach to everyday living.

Not only were decorations minimal, there were no Christmas bizarres, fireworks or even city-wide festivals. Cathedral bells had rocked Barcelona at midnight on Christmas Eve. Slipping out of Mass early to enjoy the same, I was highly disappointed! The Silent Night approach only eulogized abandoned streets.

Planning daily activities was also rather difficult. Hours of operation change during the holidays; some museums and attractions up and closed the entire week. With no way of knowing until too late, spontaneity is definitely in order; self-entertainment the better way for making the most of limited opportunities.

There didn't even appear to be many travelers, and often felt like having the city all to myself. Considering hustle and bustle of a previous Spring visit, absence of crowds wasn't the only difference. Unlike Spain and Italy which provided mild Mediterranean climates during the Holidays, Lisbon faces the Atlantic with cool, damp winters.

Many of the older structures were leaking; heating systems unheard of. Make sure your accommodations have ample bedding! Umbrellas were rendered useless by strong winds whipping off the Tagus. Water-resistant clothing is certainly recommended over potentially saturated cottons, as are lighter items for layering. Depending on how much the sun peeked through determined how much got peeled off, as days heated-up quickly.

For New Year's Eve, house parties appeared to be the norm, though riverfront restaurants and Bairro Alto bars advertised bashes. I stayed-in to pack and just before midnight, scaled the fire escape to wait atop my pension.

Traditional clamour involved people banging pots and pans from balconies while random fireworks fizzled across the City. The goose bumps highlight was when every ship along the Tagus began sounding their foghorns in concerted effort.

-- Consider booking one or both flight segments on actual holidays. Flying out on New Year's Day saved $34.

-- If departing on a holiday, plan for extra time with early flights! The Bairro Alto taxistand near my pension was vacated; the few passing already occupied. Best bet is walking to the nearest major transportation center, where other passengers are getting dropped off. I ended up schlepping my bags down the 275-steps of Calcado de Duque to Rossio terminal, and still waited in-queue for over an hour.

-- With so much of Lisbon hit-and-miss during the holidays, it was a great opportunity for taking Day Trips. Regional train and bus service schedules ran as usual. On this second visit to Sintra, it was certainly better without the crowds.

There wasn't much open in the towns of Obidos or Nazaré, but they're still worth exploring and having all to yourself. Queluz Palace was the only one which changed their hours of operation during the holidays, and required a second attempt.

The grandeur of Portugal's Age of Discovery is represented no place better than Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, and how! I couldn't wait to get back here, a second visit as good as the first with plenty of unique finds still probably missed because of so much intricacy.

Standing in its ponderous presence was humbling, spine-tingling. First suggestion: Don't be in such a hurry to enter. The Manueline-style of architecture permeates outer realms with exquisite detail. Embellishments around entries are almost overwhelming; especially the nativity frieze which crowns the west portal doubling as visitors' entrance.

The Nave is astounding with how ornately-carved, slender columns rise 25m to support one of the most beautiful vaulted ceilings in all of Europe. Stained-glass windows naturally illuminate, radiating equally on a sunny and cloudy visits. The divine treasures are something to behold; a sense of greatness further confirmed by all the notables tucked-away, including Vasco de Gama. Some tombs are classic works of art, while others are bolstered on the backs of elephants.

The Cloisters are supposedly the main attraction, and requires an entry fee. Crowds, undetectable in largeness of the Cathedral, became rowdily obvious in this smaller area. Gardens and Manueline-adorned corridors are impressive by themselves, but I was more blown-away with the nave. However, access to the real highlight only comes with a Cloisters admission.

Find the unmarked staircase (ask if you have to) that ascends to the Choir Balcony in back of the nave. Overview photo opportunities are matchless, but the real gem is a 16th-century wooden carving of Christ on the cross. This realistic masterpiece is compelling from every angle, and seizes full-attention even with the cavernous interior beyond.

-- Tram 15, from Praça do Comércio, takes about 20-minutes and has the closest drop-off points. Local trains departing from the Cais do Sodré station are also quick and convenient, but require more walking from the Belém station.

-- Shortcut for including Monument of the Discoveries and Torre de Belém involves finding the underground tunnel, which passes beneath the busy highway. Entry is hard to spot in the expansive Praça do Império, but it's between the large fountain and parking areas.

--The Belém District is loaded with other attractions, including the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia and combined Museu de Marinha and Museu das Crianças (Children), which are all part of Mosteiro's elongated wing. A sudden downpour chased me into the Maritime facility, which I recommend for rounding-out the Age of Discovery experience. Not only is this the place where all the great explorers took mass before embarking, the model ship and nautical-related collections were surprisingly interesting.

A Planetarium, Botanical Garden, Cultural Activities Center, the Presidential and National Palaces, and highly-touted Museu Nacional dos Coches are also nearby to more than fill an entire day.

-- All of these facilities, including Torre de Belém and Monument to the Discoveries, are Closed on Monday.

Just as the Colosseum is to Rome what the Parthenon is to Athens, The Alfma is what defines Lisbon, or at least in my book! Lasting impressions are the least of what's endured from this historic district. What the Visigoths began in the 5th century, The Moors embellished with a Morrocan Kasbah approach.

Time and time again, I found myself drawn to this puzzle of a place. With compulsions of a laboratory rat in search of reward at end of the maze, there was no cheese; any more than there was a beginning or an end. Age-old buildings are propped-up and crumbling, and that's part of the appeal for this steep, hillside enclave.

Having a detailed map might prove somewhat of a distraction and frustration. Try to pin-point Igreja de São Miguel as a reference point. Beyond this, it's a ramble of perplexity for where the course may lead, and that's the highlight! Even with familiarity after numerous visits, I found that one new turn of a different direction opened unto yet another passage, courtyard or staircase.

Former prestige of the area is evident from colorful azulejos trimming building facades. After surviving the 1755 earthquake and generations of decay, restorations are obviously attracting a more prominent crowd of residents and business owners. The vibrance of daily life, from neighbors living in such close proximity, enlivens the streets while signature laundry flails from windows and balconies.

Upscale shops and restaurants now line the principal channels, but there's still plenty of hidden, inexpensive finds tucked-away along back alleys. Warnings to be careful accompany the remaining destitute population, potentially taking advantage of darkened corridors and dead-end opportunities. Precautions are always in order, but I combed this entanglement day and night, and was captured only by admiration.

-- Unless using a wide-angle lens, photographs were next to impossible within such confined perspectives. Not only does the precarious design limit vantage points, tightly-hemmed passageways were obscured even on the sunniest of days.

Other Attractions
A great place to begin is at the 12th century Sé, which is more impressive from the outside than its unadorned, cavernous interior. This Cathedral looms more like a mighty fortress, and can be seen from about every vantage point in the central valley. Proceeding uphill towards the left is the most direct approach to The Alfama, where the real adventures begin.

-- The Alfama and Castelo de São Jorge are synonymous with Tram #28; the City's premier public transportation experience. Taking this scenic tour is highly recommended as a separate activity, or as the preferred measure for people with physical limitations. While better than nothing, the only way to fully appreciate this neighborhood requires strenuous walking, but is well worth endeavor.