Medieval Beauty - Dubrovnik

Trip Highlights: Walking atop the city walls; dining in the Victoria Restaurant with phenomenal views of the city below; the terrace beach at the Argentina Hotel; strolling the lovely pedestrian streets; drinks at the Troubadour Jazz Bar

Quick Tips:

Dubrovnik is a relatively large city, however the part you want to be in - the Old City - is very small. We made the mistake of booking a hotel that was much to far away from the Old City, and ended up changing hotels immediately. We have included some suggestions for hotels of all prices that are close enough to the Old City that you don't have to spend all of your time and money in a bus or taxi trying to get to the action.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you are staying close to the Old City, all you need is a good pair of walking shoes. If you stay out by Lapad, you will have to call a cab or figure out the bus schedule and make the 15-minute+ ride into the historic center.

Hotel Zagreb Was a disappointment on so many levels. If you check out the link, you''ll see a very nice-looking villa that appears to be in top-shape. We arrived at the hotel to find a run-down, shabby version of the photo we had seen on the internet. We were also misled regarding the proximity of Hotel Zagreb to the walled Old Town district. It is impossible to walk to Old Town from Lapad (where the Zagreb is located), and it isn''t so easy to get a taxi, either. Taxis must be called for ahead of time, and the trip can take 10-15 minutes or more depending on traffic. We didn''t stick around long enough to find out about the bus schedule. We took one look at our shabbily furnished room and dingy bathroom and ran back outside to catch a cab that we saw dropping off another hotel guest. We hightailed it into old town and got ourselves a room at the Hotel Argentina, just a short walk up Frana Supila hill from Old Town. We couldn''t get a room at the Argentina till the following day, so we spent one night at the Hotel Zagreb.

The Lapad Cove area isn''t so bad if you don''t mind being so far from the Old Town action. There were a lot of older German pensioners staying in some of the larger hotels at the end of the pedestrian promenade, and the car-free zone is lined with restaurants and a few bars (although not of the caliber found in Old Town). Upon arriving back from the city, we walked up and down the promenade a few times, and had dinner at a small Italian restaurant with a very friendly owner. There is a gravel beach at the end of the promenade.

Getting back to the Zagreb - it is a shame that the online photos don''t give a true depiction of the place. We were initially very excited to stay there, as you can see how lovely it looks in the online photos. All that changed the instant we actually saw the place. We spent a sleepless night in the tiny, worn-out bed and woke early to get ourselves out of there. The bathroom shower was tiny and dirty, so we decided to wait to bathe ''til we got to the Argentina. The Zagreb''s staff was friendly, and breakfast (served in the damp, basement dining room) was OK - rolls and jam, cereals and juices, was included in the room rate. Fortunately, it is very inexpensive - we paid around $35 USD for our one-night stay; so we can''t complain about the price. There are alternatives to being relegated to the boondocks, though, if you must visit Dubrovnik on a budget - see our Free Form section for other options. There is no need to stay at the Zagreb, financial or otherwise.

The romantic Restauran Victoria is possibly the prettiest restaurant I have ever been to. The stunning, unobstructed view of Dubrovnik's walled Old Town is unparalleled, and the elegant, flower-decked dining terrace is beautiful. We had a very romantic dinner here while the sun was setting over Old Town and the Adriatic, and it was perfect!

Victoria is more expensive that any other restaurant we visited during our entire month-long stay in Croatia, but is was well worth it. I had delicious chicken en brochette, served with Dalmatian-style vegetables; my husband had wiener schnitzel, which he liked very much. The wine selection is very good. After dinner we had cappuccino and enjoyed the lovely view. The staff was kind and very attentive, but not to the point of hovering. It was a Monday night in late September, so we shared the restaurant with only one other couple. Once they left we had the whole beautiful place to ourselves. I would imagine that reservations are necessary during the summer months. It was a very memorable experience - great food, spectacular view!

A friend in New York recommended this excellent little restaurant, which sits in the shadow of a high city wall along the sea. Her glowing recommendation was right on the money - we enjoyed an excellent meal that we will long remember. Ekvinocijo's (equinox) menu features hearty Croatian fare including soups, freshly caught seafood and the "Ekvinocijo Platter:" four types of grilled fish, cabbage, fat boiled potatoes, and sliced mango. I had a perfectly grilled steak with the sinfully delicious boiled potatoes and "salat," by husband enjoyed grilled Croatian sausages and local cabbage salad. He also sampled Istra liquor, which we ended up buying a bottle of it to bring back to the States. Dinner was excellent - I get hungry just thinking about it! We ate outdoors in comfortable wicker chairs on the little patio. Ekvinocijo is located in a quiet part of the city. Neighboring buildings house quaint apartments, complete with cats and flower boxes in the windows. A city wall looms over the restaurant to one side, which adds to its charm - that's something you just don't see every day!

We can't talk about Ekvinocijo without mentioning the very fine service and super-nice people who run the place. Our waiter was terrific - happy, accommodating and proud of the restaurant. Owner Tonka was lovely - she was pleased to hear that folks in New York were recommending her restaurant, and mentioned that she has had quite a few Americans coming through of late. Ekvinocijo is a must for any visitor to Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik artist Lucija Pandzic Perojevic has a pretty little shop on Frana Supila, not far from Ploce Gate. Her delicate vases, candlesticks, bowls, platters, and other ceramic creations are painted with swirls of pastel colors and accented with gold-plate - it's hard to describe just how lovely these pieces are, but the effect is stunning.

Lucija herself is delightful, and was manning her shop herself the three times that we visited during our 5-day stay in Dubrovnik. She designs, creates, and paints each piece herself, and her pieces have an elegant, yet whimsical quality to them. I couldn't resist, and bought a bowl as an birthday gift for my mother and a smaller footed bowl as a remembrance of our honeymoon in Croatia.

Pieces run from about $12 USD on up. In addition to the vases, et. al. mentioned above, Lucija also makes ceramic doves, Dubrovnik's symbol of freedom, wall crosses replicated from 16th century Croatian cross, and delicate jewelry. Her inventory changes constantly, as she is always making new things. Stop in to chat with Lucija and see her lovely handiwork - she'll even bubble-wrap your purchases for a safe trip home!

The Trubadur is nestled in an alleyway that runs along the right side of the Velike Gospe (if you are facing the cathedral), just off Pred Dvorom. In warm weather, comfy high-backed wicker chairs and little bistro tables clog the allyway under the Trubadur's awning. It's a perfect place to relax with a drink and listen to the excellent jazz ensemble. We went here several times, and each time the talented jazz musicians came and went as they pleased - sometimes there were as many as six on the makeshift "stage," then all of a sudden there would be only two or three. Either way, the music was excellent. The waiters are really nice guys - we had a chance to chat with one in particular. The Trubadur attracted a mainly young crowd interested in quietly chatting and listening to music. The view of arcaded Rector's Palace and bustling Pred Dovrom while enjoying a drink to laid-back jazz is a treat. Trubadur is a great place to while away an evening, and they are open late-night.

Learn from our mistake! Dubrovnik B&B is a good alternative to staying far from the action in this beautiful city. We didn't stay here, but we researched it on the web prior to arriving in Dubrovnik, and we saw it every day during our 5-day stay in town. We wished we had booked it for ourselves - but instead opted to stay in a hotel that ended up being a huge disappointment in far away Lapad Cove (hindsight is 20/20!).

Dubrovnik B&B is a good bet for travelers on a budget who want to be right in the middle of it all. Located at the base of Frana Supila, directly across the street from Old Town's Ploce Gate, this clean three-story house (cafe on ground floor, owner's apartment and B&B on 2 & 3rd floors) is excellently located. In July and August rooms are at their most expensive at $37 per night per double-bed room. It seems that the place has become quite popular since we first researched them last year - they now request that you contact them as soon as possible to make your reservation. Photographs of the rooms are available on their website. In addition to being practically in Old Town, Dubrovnik's lovely sand beach is just a very short walk up Frana Supila, and a good grocery store is right across the street. I could just kick myself that we didn't stay here. Too bad for us - they were booked when we tried to make a last minute reservation with them after getting a look at the awful hotel we had booked. Oh well, live and learn! Hopefully someone else will benefit from our mistake!

Other Options - Sobe or Private Rooms There are also a lot of other opportunities for private accomodation on the web, and if you are not traveling during the busy season, you can even go directly to the tourist office at the base of Frana Supila (across from the abovementioned B&B at #1 Frana Supila, near the Ploce Gate) and the very helpful young staff will set you up with a room in private accomodation. Or, look for the Sobe signs posted on houses and buildings - these are places where people rent rooms in their homes to tourists.

Hotel Argentina Frana Supila 14 20000 Dubrovnik, CROATIA Tel: 385-20-440-555, fax: 385-20-432-524

Very Highly Recommended

$71-$100 per night

After a bad experience with a nasty little hotel in Lapad, we were very fortunate to find an available room last-minute in heavily booked Dubrovnik at the lovely Hotel Argentina. While the hotel's exterior and lobby are in classic 1970s style, the lovely terraced gardens that overlook the sea, and terrific views of Old Town, and the wonderful service make up for any lack in traditional Croatian appearance that one could have hoped for. We were given a room in the hotel's annex, which is located across the street from the main building in a more traditional stucco villa built into the steep hillside. Our room was large, clean, plainly but very nicely furnished, and featured cable television and a very large bathroom complete with high-pressure shower. The room also had an incredible view of Dubrovnik's walled old-town - we swear that several post-cards were photographed from our window, the view was that amazing.

The Hotel Argentina's grounds and facilities are wonderful - there is a gorgeous salt water pool that is "washed over" with gentle waves when high tide comes in. The terraced "beach" area is lovely and relaxing - helpful cabana boys will place chaise lounges where you can get the most sun and the best view of Old Town. A very nice cafe, located on a terrace just above the beach area, serves up excellent pasta, beer, and fruit drinks in a very peaceful setting. The hotel's gardens and terraces are lovely to stroll through. We would find a secluded table and spend hours reading, writing and playing scrabble while taking in the sea air and beautiful views. The staff is very sweet and very helpful, particularly the front desk folks, who gave us their very last room after hearing our horror story about our Lapad hotel. We were on our honeymoon and the staff did everything they could to make our experience pleasant. They were lovely.

We paid about $71 per night for our room, and we got a lot for our money. An elaborate buffet breakfast was served every day in the hotel dining room, with spectacular views of the ocean and Old Town. Serving everything from American-style eggs to more traditional Croatian breakfast items such as rolls, jams, and sliced meats, the Argentina went all-out at breakfast. They also have a long seating - you can get breakfast up till about 11:00, so you can sleep in and not worry about missing the meal.

Hotel Argentina is also very ideally located - a 5-minute stroll down Frana Supila hill (complete with lovely views of the Adriatic and the walled city) gets you into Old Town. It was so nice to be near everything we wanted to see, and also to be staying in a hotel that had such great access to the sea. In addition to the hotel's terrace beaches, Dubrovnik's very nice sand beach is located a short walk from the hotel.

We thoroughly enjoyed the Argentina - it is a wonderful hotel. We are lucky to have found at room here last minute! The Argentina also owns the 5-star Villa Orsula, a small, luxurious hotel next-door, which has a fantastic restaurant. The lobby and rooms are gorgeous, but you must book far in advance to get a reservation here.