Istanbul, Turkey: West and East

Istanbul may seem daunting to some, but don't be scared! This is a beautiful city to explore. Most things are very cheap, aside from museum fees! Cough it up and enjoy the sights. Eat the local foods, bargain at the markets, and pretend like you're living in Ottoman times! Be sure to visit Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Sophia, and the Blue Mosque. If you get tired, relax with the locals at a Turkish bath.

Quick Tips:

Women: After I wore a head scarf, I was completely ignored by the (plentiful) touts. Be sure you know how to tie it properly--they can tell if you've done it improperly! I highly recommend wearing a headscarf. I am an anthropologist and I prefer immersing myself in the culture. It's up to you, though.

Best Way To Get Around:

Your feet will serve you well, and when you get a bit tired, you can always take the tram, which runs very often. If you want to get to Asia, then take the ferry for a few cents.

Step up to this 17th century mosque, surrender your shoes and step inside for a breathtaking moment. The handmade tiles are especially beautiful when combined with the soft glow from hundreds of candles. This well-kept mosque is a working house of worship so please be respectful. Keep your voices down, do not use flash photography and stay away from the prayer areas if you are not a Muslim.

The gardens outside offer a great view of the mosque and are well manicured. They're also great for a break.

There is no entrance fee.

Although the entrance fees may be quite steep (around $30 for everything), Topkapi Palace is a must-see. This gem from the Ottoman Empire contains stunning architecture. Of particular interest is the tile work which is still in great shape. Take your time exploring because there is a lot to see. Be sure to tour inside the Harem. Outside, you'll facade of the Castration Room breathtaking. There is also a peaceful fountain in the back.

The Palace is closed on Tuesdays. Otherwise it open from 9 A.M. to 7 P.M. You can purchase tickets by the entrance to the Harem. You can find more information and even take a virtual tour on the official website: http://www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr/

These underground cisterns date from the Roman times. In fact, the Romans seemed to have so many columns going around that they re-used them here! There is eerie, light music playing and you'll hear lots of water dripping. Add low light and you end up with a mysterious, thrilling atmosphere.

Although this church may look a bit worn-down, especially on the outside, it still has a lot of heart. You don't need a tour guide to enter and if you don't want to pay for one then ignore the touts around the entrance.

The Church of Holy Wisdom was originally constructed in Roman times and contains Byzantine architecture. Parts of the building periodically collapsed. The church was made into a mosque following the conquest of the Turks, and you'll see lots of hanging examples of Islamic calligraphy. Be sure to look up at the very tall ceilings; you don't want to miss all of the little touches. Take your time exploring this vast church/mosque/museum and keep in mind that you can explore the second floor.

Although the Church of St. Savior in Chora (Kariye) might be off the beaten track, it is quite a find. This small non-working church, originally built in the 5th century, holds a break taking collection of Byzantine art. Of particular interest are the frescoes and mosaics.

Small entrance fee required. More information is available at the official website: http://english.istanbul.gov.tr/default.aspx?pid=315

This large mosque is often overlooked, although respectful visitors are very welcome here. The compound itself is beautifully landscaped and perfect for a stroll. Before entering the mosque be sure to take off your shoes. Women, you will have to cover your hair. As always, keep your voices low and don't take any flash pictures inside.

In order to get to Asia, you can take a ferry from the European side. I decided to take this short trip because I had never been to Asia before. The docks are near the end of the tram line. The trip to Asia is extremely cheap; buy your token before boarding at the proper kiosk. The most fun is in the actual ride; try to get on early in order to get a seat. Enjoy some tea and a sesame roll. On the Asian side you won't anything too exciting aside from a large street market.