Sunny Hvar

Memorable Moments: The view from Spanjol Fortress, which sits atop a hill overlooking Hvar Town. Strolling along the water at night; taking in the evening action in Trg Sveti Stepana from the balcony of the Arsenal; meeting interesting people while having lunch at Pizza Kogo.

Quick Tips:

My biggest piece of advice regarding Hvar is double check the ferry schedules!!! We were forced to leave the beautiful island almost two days earlier than we originally planned, due to incorrect information we received regarding the ferry schedule to Dubrovnik. Always get a "second opinion" from a reliable source, such as the Jadrolinija Office (Croatia’s main ferry operator) itself. Do not rely on information in guidebooks or from hotel staff – well-meaning as they are, the ferry schedules change often and it can be difficult for anyone other than the ferry operator to keep up with the sudden schedule changes. The result was that we could only spend one night in Hvar Town, and were unable to explore this incredible island and its beaches as we had hoped.

Best Way To Get Around:

Tiny Hvar Town it practically car-free - most roads do not accomodate cars - so walking is the way to go. To get to the ferry in Stari Grad, you will need to take a taxi for the 15-20 minute ride - hotels can arrange for this for you. The only way to get to Hvar is by ferry - Jadrolinija passenger ferries from Split to Hvar Town take about 1 1/2 hours and cost about .85 per person (no kidding). You can also get a ferry from Split to Stari Grad (2 hours) where a bus will take you into Hvar Town. Stari Grad is where larger ferries arrive from and depart to places like Dubrovnik (6 hours). Taxis from Hvar Town to Stari Grad are relatively inexpensive.

The Jadrolinija Ferry docks directly in front of the Hotel Slavija. Please bear in mind that the photos on the website are extremely optimistic – while the exterior of the hotel is lovely, the rooms inside were a huge disappointment. The furniture was musty, the bathroom was damp and dingy, and nothing seemed quite clean to us. In my college traveling days it would have been OK I suppose, but we were on our honeymoon and had hoped to get a room at the glamorous Hotel Palace at the head of the harbor, so the Slavija was a letdown. At least the price was very inexpensive – about $48 per night. We can say that the Slavija is very centrally located, is right on the water, and has lovely views of the harbor and the Adriatic beyond. If you have a room facing the harbor, the only drawback is that the musicians that play in the restaurant beneath your windows are very loud and not particularly good (think Croatian Lawrence Welk), so you will be kept up by them (they play till after midnight). The snippy woman at the front desk who checked us in didn’t exactly make us feel welcome, but she was later replaced by a much friendlier soul who helpfully arranged for a taxi to take us to our 7:00 a.m. ferry in Stari Grad the next morning.

Now that we know better, there are plenty of other lovely places to stay on beautiful Hvar. Next time, I will book a room at the Hotel Palace – it is owned by the same company, but is much better kept and very lovely. Housed in a former Ducal Palace, the hotel sits in the center of Hvar Town on the harbor and boasts a 16th century loggia where guests can take tea and breakfast. Contact them well in advance of your trip – we tried to get a room with them more than three months prior to our arrival and were told they were completely booked. We were given a room in the Slavija as a consolation. The Adriatic Hotel, on the other side of the small harbor, also looked very nice, although it is a more modern building than the Palace.

We had our first meal in Hvar at Pizza Kogo, a relaxed little cafe that serves terrific pizza and pasta along with traditional Croatian seafood and salads. The restaurant's outdoor dining area is located right on Hvar Town's main square, Trg Sveti Stjepana, and has great views of Sveti Stjepan Cathedral which is just a few steps away. From your table, you also have a view of Spanjol Fortress on the hill above the town.

We had a very good lunch of margarita pizza, traditional cabbage salads, and a side order of local marinated olives. We had the good fortune of meeting two very nice British gentlemen at the table next to us - they said their pasta dishes were excellent.

The service was very good - the waiters were friendly and they encouraged us to hang out at our table long after our meal was finished. The beer selection was good, and I was able to get delicious apricot nectar as well.

First, I should say that Bounty is also a restaurant which serves pasta, grilled fish and meat - typical inexpensive Croatian fare. We didn't eat here, but came to enjoy drinks alongside the harbor. While Bounty is housed behind a typical Hvar limestone facade, the interior of the place is colorful and funky-looking. The artsy elevated bistro tables and bar stools and techno music on the sidewalk provide an interesting contrast to the medieval charm of the buildings that line the harbor. The tables are just steps from the water, and little fishing boats and dingies are moored in front of the restaurant, creating a very picturesque view for diners/drinkers to enjoy. My husband had a few beers and bitter lemon, I had my usual peach nectar - it was a lovely way to enjoy the cool night air and take in the beautiful sights of quaint Hvar Town.

Bounty is located near the Zagrebacka Banka along the harbor (Gradska Vrata). If you are at the head of Trg Sveti Stjepana facing the cathedral, walk to your left along the water and you will come to it.

Spanjol Fortress is perched high on a hill overlooking Hvar Town and affords amazing views of the town, harbor and Adriatic below. Spanjol was originally a medieval castle, and was converted to a fortress in the 1500s to ward off the invading Turks. In the 1800s, the Austrians strengthened the fortress and added barracks. Today, the gleaming white limestone fortress houses a restaurant/bar, and you can enjoy a drink while taking in the view through the crenelles of the battlements. The surviving sections of Hvar Town's old city walls lead up the hill to the fortress and add to its beauty and medieval charm.

To get to the fortress, pass under the main Town Gate and head directly up the very steep stone steps to the top - you will come upon a pathway that will lead you to the fortress. The hike up to the fort is a terrific workout, and you will be rewarded with spectacular views when you reach the top. The hike up itself provides great views of the side streets of Hvar. On a side note, there were several hundred bikers having a very civilized cocktail party in the fortress the day we visited. Their presence, along with that of almost 300 motocycles, created an interesting juxtaposition between the fort's medieval history and the many different types of folks that visit Hvar today.

Take a picnic and enjoy the amazing view! Admission to the fortress is free.