Besos in Bocas

Bocas has been on the backpacker's radar for awhile and is now becoming more developed and expensive. The natural beauty and friendly locals make it worth a stop.

Amazing snorkeling awaits in colorful Coral Cay and Cayo Zapatilla. Bird lovers should pick a tour that includes Bird Island. There are waves for surfers and calm, clear water at Starfish Beach. Sip a fruity drink watching boats go by or take a water taxi to Bastimentos for a more authentic experience.

Same as other beach locations, foreigners are buying up the land. Expect to meet lots of people looking at properties.

Quick Tips:

Panama uses the American dollar and coins are from the U.S mixed with Balboas.

During the low season prices are cheaper and crowds smaller. Accommodations range from a night hammocks to luxury suites on the water. Hotels on Bastimentos are less expensive and away from crowds.
The strangest information I came across in a hostel brochure is that Bocas is over fished. Surrounded by the bay and ocean, sometimes restaurants will not have any fish available and all shrimp is frozen and flown in. Deep sea fisherman might want to consider another location.

The 50¢ happy hour beers are expensive compared to other places in Panama, but still a heck of a deal. Liquor is cheap but bars close early. Stock up on drinks and water at the grocery store.

Don't forget mosquito repellent!

Best Way To Get Around:

Getting to Bocas is half the fun on an hour long boat ride () from Changuinola. Have some American coins for the kids that bombard you to carry your luggage. See how locals live along the river and bounce through open waves to a clear blue bay. Flights from Panama City are just short of an hour.

Rent a bike to explore the neighborhoods. Take a van from the main square to outlying beaches and hear a history lesson of Bocas.

Most boats do not have lights, check before boarding at night.

This home on the water was converted into a comfortable, quiet hotel. All four rooms are equipped with 2 beds, A/C, clean tiled bathroom and shower. Panamanian art and knick knacks throughout give the feel of staying in some one's home. Beverages are available on the honor system in the hallway refrigerator. Guests mark on a piece of paper what they take and the total is calculated at the end of the stay.

Breakfast, included in the rate, is served every morning on the deck overlooking the water. Fresh breads and fruits, cereal, and beverages are laid out and waiting. I thought that was plenty and then a woman shows up and asks if we would like a hot breakfast. Omelettes, scrambled eggs, and french toast are served up with local hot sauces and jam.

My friend and I got to know the four other guests over breakfast and were invited to go snorkeling with one of the owners, Bob. It was a rare treat to see spots without other tourists.

The other guests had done a deep sea fishing tour and on their last day Bob opened up the kitchen in his adjacent home. The guys lightly breaded and fried kingfish and barracuda, country style baked beans, salad, and macaroni and cheese. They served everyone, including Bob and his 2 workers who had taken such good care of us, out on the deck.

One could spend a week here lounging in a hammock reading books from the exchange shelf, and I almost did. The laidback atmosphere and attention from the owner and staff made for a truly relaxing and enjoyable time.

There are positive and negatives to this hostel. Kitchen use is free and plenty of seats surrounded the large wooden table. Hang out areas in a small garden outside and hammocks on the upstairs porch are great common areas. The lively bar is the place to go early in the evening to connect with other travelers. Two bikes are available for short rides to the grocery store and such, but not for the whole day. The laid back, knowledgeable owner from the states makes everyone feel welcome and is full of advice. He showed us up to the dorms on the second floor. The only way to get up is through the bathroom and shower area. My pack almost snagged the towel of a guy brushing his teeth. The dorms are typical bunk beds crammed into a room without screens on the windows. For a single traveler looking to connect with other travelers this is a tolerable hostel. Most groups left after one night because better deals are available in motel rooms. Being a guest of the hostel is not a requirement for hanging out in the bar. Check it out and decide for yourself.

This small restaurant serves up simple Panamanian dishes cafeteria style. Grab a tray, join the locals and make your selections from the steaming pans. Rice, beans, empanadas, several meats in different sauces and whole fish were offered when my friend and I visited. The staff was helpful in explaining what was in each dish. Two plates, sampling pretty much everything, and drinks were under 5 dollars. The local hot sauce without a label is a must! If you don't see it on a table, ask because it's better than anything with a label.
A house fire a few weeks earlier had claimed the life of a local firefighter. The funeral, from the packed church next door, was broadcast on television. The mood was somber as personnel in full dress stood watching the screen.
For a traditional and inexpensive meal, Don Chicho's is the place to go.

Pargo Rojo, red snapper in Spanish, is a trendy restaurant on the end of the main strip. A large veranda surrounds the bar and open kitchen. One ornately carved wood table for eight and smaller tables along the railing were all candle-lit providing a romantic ambiance. The waiter greeted us promptly and explained the specials. Our fruity drinks arrived with home made bread. The menu consists of meat and seafood cooked in a variety of sauces, pastas and eclectic appetizers. My friend and I like to share different dishes but the same thing caught both are eyes. We compromised and ordered fish and shrimp both with a coconut curry sauce. The plates were presented beautifully with a salad and potatoes. We split the seafood and took our time savoring the flavors. The server was professional, anticipated our needs and let us linger forever. On the way out I thanked the women in the kitchen with a "Muy rico".

Everything was superb, so much so we returned two nights later. That visit included an excellent Caesar salad and creamy seafood pasta. The only downfalls were the so-so hummus and overpriced drinks.

I highly recommend this restaurant for everyone visiting Bocas.

From my first days in Costa Rica, I kept hearing about this bar known as "The Ship Wreck Deck". A popular hang-out for locals and travelers wanting to meringue and shake their groove thangs. A path through tropical plants leads to a dance floor and a wooden deck around a sunken ship. The bartender said people swim in underclothes and close to closing time in their birthday suits. Fueled by cheap drinks, sure enough people starting jumping in the water in various stages of undress.

As with all tourist destinations, the experience depends on other travelers and the mood that arises. Some nights the place was mellow, but on weekends and oddly enough Monday nights, the place is packed.

Recently, a new ordinance passed and bars close at 1am during the week and 3am on weekends. To make up the slack, hop on a boat from this bar to Bastimentos for the "Blue Moon Monday Party". Keep an eye out for the iridescent algae glowing in the wake of the boat. Everyone must pay up $2, each way, before the boat will dock.