Lava in La Fortuna

Travelers flock to see one of Costa Rica's top tourist attractions, nearby Volcan Arenal, hoping to see red lava rocks erupting. La Fortuna is still a small town with a slight touristy feel with the tour offices, souvenir shops, and overpriced restaurants. Basic accomadations are found in town at Gringo Pete's for under and several other basic hotels. Double rooms closer to the volcano start at and more for a night lava view. Ultimate luxury and honeymoon haven can be found at the hotel at Tabacon Hot Springs.

Quick Tips:

Take a taxi from town to the waterfall and walk back. Entrance is and involves a short hike. Tours to the volcano and hot springs include a guided hike, entrance to Tabacon for . Night viewing lava tours run or take the free shuttle to Tabacon on the corner of Calle 2. Visit the grocery store or buy fresh fruit on the street.

Best Way To Get Around:

Most arrive by bus or rental car. When leaving, buses are rare to San Jose, but frequent connecting buses can be found in San Carlos (Cuidad Quesada). Town is small enough to walk, but transportation is needed to get to the volcano. Join a tour or use the free shuttle.

This hostel is brand new with amazing tiled, hot water showers, A/C at night, free Internet access, and swimming pool with swim up bar. Dorms have four sturdy bunk beds for $10. Doubles have two beds and cable TV for $50. Compared to other options in town, the price is high for a backpacker. Escaping from the heat of the day in the pool is worth a few extra bucks to me.

The hostel is still under construction with a kitchen coming soon and hopefully a lounge. This is the first rainy season testing the red brick and tile walkway to the rooms. A flash heavy rainstorm flooded one inch below the room doors. The workers were trying to figure out what to do with the rain still pouring down. Finally, I waved the plastic trash can and everyone started bailing out water.

The hostel has a view of the volcano, but rarely can lava be seen from this side. We were lucky enough to see a few rocks shoot up one night.

The staff is full of advice and can arrange for tours and ongoing transportation. This is a great hostel that feels like a splurge for budget travelers.

I asked for advice for a good local, inexpensive restaurant. After I found Soda La Parada, I didn't eat anywhere else. The counter is crammed next to pin ball machines, the local teen hangout, and provides an opportunity to mingle with friendly locals. Open aired dining room is often filled with families and travelers alike.

Traditional Costa Rican "casados" are a "marriage" of potatoes, rice and beans, lettuce or macaroni salad, and choice of meat or fish. Fried chicken, sandwiches, and tasty pizzas are other favorites. Breakfast is delicious, and anytime is right for a juice drink. Try the strawberry, pineapple, or guanbana. Tip the attentive staff accordingly, even though the meals are less than $5.

This open-air eatery, located parallel to the main strip, attracts locals and travelers. One of the few budget dining options in over-priced, touristy La Fortuna and recommended by a guide book. I chose an outdoor table, looked over the inexpensive menu of typical Costa Rican fare, and ordered a fresh pineapple drink. I could hear the eggs cracking in the nearby kitchen and soon had a piping hot plate of scrambled eggs, fresh corn tortillas, beans, and rice. Being my second day in Costa Rica I had not yet tried the local cheese. The spongy, unmelted, salty, white chunks were not what I expected. Pushing them to the side and adding a healthy dose of green hot sauce I continued with my breakfast. Nothing was super spectacular, similar to most traditional Costa Rican fare, but it was filling and cheap. I never returned to sample the other offerings but the menu caters to backpackers on a budget.

Beyond the lava from an active volcano, the hot waters that flow are a top attraction. Tabacon is by far the most built-up and luxurious. Entrance fee is $45, which is a splurge on my budget, but the ride was free from Sunset Tours. Look for the sign in town at Calle 2. A great deal for a couple would be to stay at the on site hotel and admission is free. Deposits for towels and locker key are $15 each. Bring a credit card for drinks at the swim up bar or the dinner buffet. On site spa provides massages and other beauty treatments.

Trails through the sculpted jungle lead to pools of varying temperatures. It's possible to sit in the hot water river and then jump into an icy cold pool. The most popular attraction is the waterfall powerful enough to knock a swimsuit off but great for sore muscles. Bright, exotic flowers are visible at every turn.

The best time to arrive is after 4pm, the price goes down and there's plenty of time to enjoy the waters. Hopefully the volcano starts its show after 6pm when the red lava will be visible. Relax and enjoy. Pura Vida!

The youngest volcano in Costa Rica is also the most active. Presumed extinct until a destructive eruption in 1968, Arenal has been active ever since, but with much less ferocity. The spectacular pictures found on postcards were likely snapped during the last major eruption of August 2000. Clouds usually cover the tip. Especially when the afternoon rainstorms roll in, making morning the best time for viewing. Lava is generally not visible from the city of La Fortuna. Getting up to the volcano for a night viewing is easy with a tour or visit to the hot springs, but an eruption is not guaranteed. Many visitors miss the lava if it occurs late during the night. Staying at one of the hotels along the road out of town affords a view of the volcano all night long. I was fortunate during my visit to see, from town, red rocks shooting up after the clouds cleared from a major thunderstorm. While soaking in the hot springs, rocks broke up and lava flowed down the side.

Tour operators offer several options to experience the area. Afternoon hikes or horseback rides through the lush rain forest with an experienced guide are a great way to spot animals and flowers. Relaxing at several hot springs is an entertaining way to wait for the lava. Budget travelers can find $10 night tours from town, but remember lava sightings are not guaranteed.

During the rainy season, afternoon thunderstorms are common and strong. Take rain gear for hikes and dry clothes in a waterproof bag for after a soak in the hot springs.

Locals can provide an informative history of the area. Only consulting the dictionary once, I learned all about Arenal from a worker at the hostel. He told me that a few years ago rumbles were felt in town and they have evacuated 3 times in the past, but right now "she is not a menace, she is our friend".